Its in a large building. One team gets upstairs, one team gets downstairs.

I'm sure the Chicago area crew would be willing to carpool for an indoor war.

Alright guys, I need some ideas on how the channel should work. I thought I might either have a community password so people could upload their own videos, but I didn't want people spamming the channel with bad-quality stuff. On the other hand, I could have a group of "channel leaders" (3-4 nerfers who like editing and are good at it) that could edit together clips that people post on a separate topic. This way, I have some help editing videos and we can keep the videos frequent. Any other suggestions?

A community password is a bad idea, anyone who wanted to troll the pge would be able to by deleting all of your content or spamming it with horrible content.

If you want a community feel you should start a dropbox account and invite people who want to contribute content. But keep it to a very small amount of people who have access to the Youtube account.

Your second idea sounds good, but people who are part of the core group should have a fair amount of free time to devote and be experienced with video editing to keep thing proffesional.

Just do Beaver's Big Bad Bow mod found here.

It's simple, clean, and effective.

The Nerf Dart Tag Snapfire 8 does not need to be primed. Is the Snapfire 8 too overpowered?

No, because it isn't an air gun that has the capability to shoot ~100' without having to prime the blaster between shots. The argument with the Snapfire 8 is the same argument that could be made for any of Nerf's new flywheel blasters, but those aren't able to shoot past the century mark without the darts spiraling out of control.

I think that's a bit silly though. A well made air blaster can be just as safe or safer than a powerful springer.
You just need to apply proper safety to construction.

It's not about safety it's about fairness. A blaster you don't have to prime at all is way too OP.

@Draconis, It's interesting you say that, I haven't ever heard of those sorts of restrictions.

It's often times an unstated rule anymore. Basically anything that runs off of a regulator and a hard air tank isn't allowed at most wars.

Thanks for the other information. Unless someone else has actual data on the specific tanks I will likely use 30psi for the Big Blast and Range Master.

I have a 20 PSI McMaster OPRV on my Big Blast and it added range. I'm guessing stock BBBB PSI is ~15.

Not long to release now.

How long until these kits are for sale?

I know in blasters with larger plunger tubes, the friction on the plunger head can increase nearly exponentially as in the id gets larger. In the blaster do you experience a debilitating amount of friction?, or is it only enough so you have to change your barrel/barrel system?

I've made and owned a few different large plunger tubed blasters, and I don't think the friction is a major problem. I think the real problem is that the plunge heads always weigh a million pounds, and there isn't an increase in spring strength to try and counter act the extra mass. However, friction could be another variable for me to think about in the future with these blasters. Really my short barrel is because I have 3" of draw and a plunger head that weighs too much for the spring. I could easily fix this by finding a stronger spring.

This isn't really a write-up, but it's detailed enough that I feel someone with a little bit of effort could build one based off these pictures and descriptions.

The BullShit was built mainly as a proof of concept blaster. This was never intended to be a working prototype, but it worked well enough the first build that I feel comfortable
enough posting my results. I wanted to make something that was bullpup, but didn't require the barrel to come be seated on top of the blaster, or require tubes with slots inside
more tubes with slots.

Front Bushing

It started with a spare part that I got from Ryan and Kane back in June. It's a 1.5" x 1/2" PVC bushing with 1/2" pvc going through both sides 1", then the rear side was inserted in 2" PVC and had
resin poured in around the 1/2" PVC to create a snug fitting 2" internal bushing. The resin was later sanded down to 3/8" tall making the bushing a total length of 1.4375".



Barrel Shroud/ Pump Guide

The next part made was the barrel shroud/ pump guide tube. It's made of 1" thinwall PVC 12" long with a slot cut 1" from one end 1" wide and 3" long. The slot is just barely big enough to allow
the wye to fit in the tube and completely on the 1/2" PVC with enough room for a screw to be put through the wye and PVC.

Unfortunately due to poor lighting and excess flash the original picture was super shitty. I edited it enough to see some detail about what I'm talking about.



Plunger Head & Rod

The plunger head is made of 1.375" x 5/8" UHMW Tube and 1.375" x 2" U-Cup seal. The Plunger head is 1.5" long, with .875" of duct taped wrapped around the back to match the diameter of the u-cup base.
and .25" in front of the seal just enough to keep the seal from coming off as you prime it back.



The plunger "rod" is just an eye bolt nested inside the UHMW tube with a lathed piece of .5" nlyon for the ramp on the back of the eyebolt. To keep the eye bolt in the plunger head
I had to reduce the I.D. down to 1/8"; to do that I nested a .5" of .625" x .5" tube inside the plunger head. Then I nested a .5" x .125" nylon spacer in that.

You have to tap both spacers, and the rear catch spacer also need a set screw in the side to keep it on the rod. To keep all of the nested tubes inside the plunger head you will need a fender washer on the back kept on with a nut.

Front of the plunger head


Back of the plunger head


Priming Plate

This part's purpose is to push back the plunger head and seal against the front bushing to reduce air loss. I made mine out of PVC, but a wide variety of materials could be used as well.
I would highly recommend aluminum if you have access to a lathe. With the plastics, the plate can be turned down on a drill press with a metal lathe cutting tool mounted to the table.

It's 2" wide with a .25" thick chunk turned down to 1.375" for a second u-cup to seal against the plunger tube. The middle hole is drilled out to .75" to allow proper clearance for the spring.
It also has 2 .25" holes for the aluminum rods to sit in. There are no real dimensions for the spacing or placement. The rods are held in place with a set screw on each side.

Both sides have a 1.875" x .75" rubber washer glued on to act as padding and to help seal against the front bushing.





Priming Rods

The rods are 2 .25" aluminum rods cut to 9.5" long. They have holes drilled in the sides on both ends to attach to the priming handle and priming plate.

The rods should be placed as close to the 1" thinwall PVC as possible without touching to give more material on the edge of the priming plate for set screws to drill in.

The extra holes and screws in the PVC are what I'd like to call fuck up holes. Just ignore them.


Priming Handle
The priming handle is just a 1.25" tee with 1.25" PVC inside. It has holes drilled in it for the aluminum rods to slide in (.5" deep minimum any less and it cracks).



Main body, Stock, and Catch

Main body is 7.75" long of 2" PVC.
The Catch is a standard 2" Rainbow catch.
The stock is a 2" PVC tee with a 1.25" x 1" slot cut out to allow clearance for the handle & trigger assembly.



Handle and Trigger

The handle is a walnut Rainbow handle attached to 1" PVC using half of a coupler.
The trigger assembly is a LouieC3 "Revshot" trigger shortened to 6" trigger and 7.875" 1" PVC cover.
For the trigger spring I just used a spare stock nerf gun extension spring.






Additional notes
The spring gets attached to the eyebolt and the screw running through the wye and .5" PVC. If you use Sch. 40 PVC you'll have to ream out the PVC for the spring to fit freely.
In the future I'll use an aluminum priming plate.
The next one (if there is a next one) will have a 3d printed bushing with spaces for o-rings so I don't have to use hot glue for sealing the front.
I'll use 1.25" PVC couplers for the priming handle in the next one or replace the current one.
It is able to fire out of a 10 dart hopper with no feeding problems. 3.5" of draw is plenty, no need for 7" draw blasters.

And Ranges, it is way too cold and snowy to actually measure. But in the fall it was shooting high 80's to low 90's with a 4.5" CPVC to 5" sch 80 barrel and silicone domes.

-major reliability issues

They are pretty notorious for leaking, typically out of the front of the tank. They are back pressure tanks. All the internals are connected together so you can't exactly replace individual parts, so, if you tank leaks and you cant fix it your screwed.

-what one would cost stock and modded today

I've sold my last 3 stock for between $40 and $30. Not sure if that's really the going rate, but it's what I felt like they should be worth.

-likes/dislikes about them in general (handle being comfy, usability, ease of modding, etc.)

They are easy to mod, you should check out some of the guides in the Modifications Directory. The handle isn't exactly comfortable, but isn't uncomfortable either; it falls into the comfort category of the plusbow for me. They are as easy to use as any other singled air gun; However getting the tanks to fire at different times takes some getting used to.

Carbon has been pretty busy lately so I'm taking over the Directory for him. Please don't post in the thread. Here's the original directory thread by Carbon for posterity.

The Nerfhaven Homemade Directory is the repository of past completed projects of the Haven. Use it as a resource to see whats been accomplished before, to find new (or old) techniques, or to get inspiration for your next project. PM me if your homemade isn't in the directory or if certain links aren't working. PM Aeromech if your writeup doesn't appear here within a week of posting.

This post will be updated as new projects are added to the forum.

Helpful Threads for Building Homemade Blasters
Read the first three threads before building your first homemade.
General Reference Thread
So You Want To Build A Homemade?
Guide to Machining Plastics by Captain Slug
Guide to Solvent Welding Plastics

Just click the "show" button near the spoiler bar to see that version of the directory.

 

Administration Picks

Write-Ups

Sorted by Priming Styles

So it turns out I'm free the 16th so I will show up, but I won't have the mini-van so no mobstacles from me and I'll be leaving at 3:00-3:30. Zorn if you end up coming bring the crossbow.

The air vent hole on the side of the dart head is what causes Streamlines to spin out of control. They weigh more than regular slugs so they're plenty heavy, so weight isn't the issue. Streamlines and elites in general are pretty worthless in any blaster with more power than an elite blaster; just make some stefans if you are dead set on using your pump-snap.

This sounds cool, I'll try to show up. Do you need the mobstacles?

Nitefinder rifle my good man.

Interesting, I've never heard it called that. 9691K53 should work for a seal.

I'm not familiar with the acronym NFR could you clarify.

So there are no hot glue domes?

No we aren't terrible in that sense.

Follow Ryan201821's overhaul guide. 12" PETG barrels work really well, 10" would also work fine. There's no need for a PSI gauge just keep the number of pumps below 5-6, or install an over pressure relief valve if you are worried about blowing up your tank.

I performed some maintenance on Zorn's FAL 2 this weekend. It didn't way too much work, just the usual fixes for FAL 2s.

• Replace the plunger tube with opaque PVC (clear PVC cracks easily)
• Fine tune the trigger. It actually catches now.
• Re-attached the handle with epoxy putty instead of hot glue an zip ties
• Filled unnecessary holes in the plunger tube and bushings.
• Made a new spacer to attach the priming handle to the plunger tube. The original was 1/2" long and the new one is 2.5" long.

Pictured with the other blasters I've fixed that once belonged to Zorn.



I also finished up a new bullpup blaster that is a spring powered version of Kane's BullPACs; It is the same size and has a better name "BullShit".
Here it is with it's predecessor the "BullCrap"

It doesn't need a cheek-diddle sheath because nothing flies forward when you fire it.

It would protect your face against the priming sheath if it failed to catch and flew forward. It's just another safety precaution that I think all blasters should have.

While this design fixed many of the problems of the original RainbowPump, mainly being able to disassemble it easier than before. However it doesn't have the best feature of the original, a cheek-diddle sheath around the back.

If you are willing to make safer darts, you can contact Kane to buy a pink MHA foam dart making kit. Or you can contact Snickers and ask him about his beige and white foam, I believe he will sell it in 100' lengths.

I would suggest offering an alternative possibility for the 5/8" washers as well as the thinwall PVC, not all people have these at their local hardware stores.

This seems like a ton more steps to make than gluing some T-snap clamps on pvc then snapping it together and covering it with a tarp. Unless I'm missing something from this.

Snickers is a maybe and I have a possible +1.

I'm a maybe for the 3rd. It was the date I was going to set Mayhem 2.5 at

If you want to host a war on the 3rd that's cool. I'm leaning more towards the 10th or 17th. Also marshmallows are not preferred, they got extremely sticky and were very hard to distinguish between darts at the end of the day when the sun is setting.

Also I would like air guns to be allowed at the war as long as they aren't too powerful. Big blasts are generally too strong but 2k and 3k should be fine.

I made one of Ryan's new extension spring blasters using one of the first Purple handles created. It has work reliably for nearly 300 shots, and it is much easier to install than a regular rainbow catch.

I have a stock magstrike that I can gut for the bladder if you want to buy it. Replacing the bladder at this point is your best option.

I really want to believe that the range is 80-90 ft PTG, however:
1. Although ingenious, the sealing mech does not look like it seals perfectly/near perfectly
2. You have 3" draw with a 3/4" plunger tube. Blasters like the snap use 1 1/4" PT's with more draw and get just slightly higher ranges

He's using a 1 1/4" plunger tube not 3/4" or else his plunger head wouldn't fit. Also 3" of draw is more then adequate to fire 80' seeing as longshots of the specifications can shoot 95-100' flat.

All of this will be for sale at the war. You can reserve stuff now by prepaying and picking it up at the war. I also have a stock splitfire for sale as well.

Just completed the handle. I was wondering if a 1/2" pvc coupler could be used to plug the wye instead of the 3/4" plug?

You would still have a hole in the wye with a coupler. Also the plugs are a more efficient method.

MHA is by far the best foam. You should buy some of their dart kits, especially since their darts are the safest alternatives out there.

Great! Are you brining your mom?

Nope

I'll be bringing a couple of bins of stuff to sell and/or give away. Also I will be bringing some Mobstacles that can double as cores if we need them.

I'd be down for this. Also Cataclysm will not occur in May this year Bchamp, mid-June looks like the best time for it.

You probably don't want to buy as much as Visipak's minimum order quantity, but here is a link anyways.

Zorn's FAL 2 became my FAL 2. The plunger tube exploded so I had to fix that and reinforce the priming handle.

Finally the best shell ever is getting the TLC that it has always deserved. It is the most comfortable shell and it fits a 2.25" plunger tube perfectly with 5" of draw.

It shoots as far as Ryan's plusbow. Shoots through cardboard with slugs but not with AMIORS or silicone domes.