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+bow: Diy Thread You do it

#1 User is offline   CaptainSlug 

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 10:13 AM

Like other projects before it, the +bow is an open source project for the benefit of the NIC.

In order to keep the original topic focused on the original design, this thread will instead be focused on the +bows that the community makes. Share photos of you guns, finished preferably, but mostly finished is fine too. Ask each other questions about what you did or did not do differently. That kind of thing. However if you are not making one right now or haven't finished one then there's no real reason for you to post in this thread.

It's not the easiest thing in the world to make and the amount of supplies needed is slightly higher than those of the FAR. So I'm expecting many of you will need some help or advice at some point.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Original Thread
Rev.2 Construction write-up Added September 23rd, 2008
Rev.1 Construction write-up (Updated September 1st to revised trigger assembly photos and text)
Rev.1 Mirror version at Instructables

Rev.2 Autocad 2000 DWG for all of the parts that need to be cut from 1/8" thickness polycarbonate
Rev.2 Autocad 2000 DWG for all of the parts that need to be cut from 1/4" thickness polycarbonate

Rev.1 Autocad 2000 DWG for all of the parts that need to be cut from 1/8" thickness polycarbonate
Rev.1 Autocad 2000 DWG for all of the parts that need to be cut from 1/4" thickness polycarbonate

Rev.1 CAD files in Alibre Part and STEP 214 formats (700kb zip)

View PostSplit, on Jun 4 2009, 01:34 PM, said:

Here is the new plunger head:
Posted Image
It is part number 9562K46, with two 1.25" diameter polycarbonate circles, and 5/32" holes drilled in the centers. It is tightened heavily onto the rod, as there are small dimples in the front that need to be closed off by the front piece of polycarb.
To demonstrate the seal, the same test:
Posted Image

This post has been edited by CaptainSlug: 01 August 2010 - 09:02 AM


#2 User is offline   VACC 

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 10:29 AM

Please do not post in this topic unless you are building this homemade or a variant of it. Please post coherently and concisely. Your posts may be edited or removed to increase the utility of this topic.

Thank you,
VACC

#3 User is offline   keef 

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 11:52 AM

If I had access to a laser table cutter, how would I use it to cut the plastic?

#4 User is offline   bobafan 

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 01:15 PM

Is the use of an ice pick a serious suggestion?
thaygor: all i remimber is pumping it hard and shooting than trying to pump again

---

<death09>my girlfriend broke up with me and sent me pix of her and her new boyfriend in bed
<ktp753>ouch.
<death09>yeah.i sent them to her dad

#5 User is offline   CaptainSlug 

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 08:32 PM

View Postkeef, on Jan 8 2008, 02:52 PM, said:

If I had access to a laser cutting table, how would I use it to cut the plastic?

First, the laser cutting table will have to be powerful enough to be useful for cutting through thick sheets of plastic. From what I've read the minimum seems to be a 40W laser.
To cut the parts out you would need to create a set of DXF drawings from the CAD model that you can send to the laser cutting table to tell it where the cutting paths are on the sheet you're having it cut. That will involve quite a bit of work to setup initially and you would have to have some practice using CAD and its mechanical drawing functions.

View Postbobafan, on Jan 8 2008, 04:15 PM, said:

Is the use of an ice pick a serious suggestion?

An ice pick or dental pick is what I used to poke through the electrical tape. You could probably drill through it with a really small bit instead.

#6 User is offline   bobafan 

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 08:44 PM

View PostCaptainSlug, on Jan 8 2008, 11:32 PM, said:

View Postbobafan, on Jan 8 2008, 04:15 PM, said:

Is the use of an ice pick a serious suggestion?

An ice pick or dental pick is what I used to poke through the electrical tape. You could probably drill through it with a really small bit instead.

Ok, I was thinking like this:
Posted Image
that makes more sense.
thaygor: all i remimber is pumping it hard and shooting than trying to pump again

---

<death09>my girlfriend broke up with me and sent me pix of her and her new boyfriend in bed
<ktp753>ouch.
<death09>yeah.i sent them to her dad

#7 User is offline   CaptainSlug 

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 08:59 PM

That's an ice axe or ice tool

#8 User is offline   Skitzo 

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Posted 17 January 2008 - 02:09 PM

I just received all of the parts in the mail.
All I need is a new blade for my band saw and I'll be set.
While looking through the plans I couldn't find how long the plunger rod is supposed to be.
How much space would be between the two end lables of the plunger rod?
What brand of silicon lubricant do you recommend?
Also I don't have labeling paper, could I just use a glue stick or something to glue the paper templates to the protective covering of the plastic?
EDIT: Would using a hand held jigsaw to cut the plastic work?
Thanks in advance.

Skitzo-

100th post!

This post has been edited by Skitzo: 17 January 2008 - 02:22 PM

If soldiers were to begin to think, not one of them would remain in the army.- Frederick The Great

#9 User is offline   CaptainSlug 

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Posted 17 January 2008 - 02:31 PM

View PostSkitzo, on Jan 17 2008, 05:09 PM, said:

1. While looking through the plans I couldn't find how long the plunger rod is supposed to be.
2. How much space would be between the two end lables of the plunger rod?
3. What brand of silicon lubricant do you recommend?
4. Also I don't have labeling paper, could I just use a glue stick or something to glue the paper templates to the protective covering of the plastic?
5. EDIT: Would using a hand held jigsaw to cut the plastic work?

1. 13-1/4 x 1/2 inches as outlined in Step Two.
2. The labels go at opposite ends of the plunger rod.
3. I don't have any preference
4. Label paper is the only thing that's really going to work reliably. It is expensive to buy, but it will prevent you from screwing up the dimensions of any of the parts.
5. You would have to have a very small blade for it. You would have to use the jigsaw to do the internal cuts prior to doing any of the external cuts to free the parts from the sheet. I personally wouldn't recommend it for safety reasons, but you can try it if you want to.

#10 User is offline   CaptainSlug 

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 08:35 AM

View PostTofu, on Jan 21 2008, 10:48 AM, said:

Chill vacc

He posted what I asked him to. This thread is for pictures of +bows in-progress or finished, or specific questions concerning supplies, tools, and assembly.

#11 User is offline   bobafan 

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 07:20 PM

Is there any way to keep the screws from becoming loose other than using ones which are self-locking?
thaygor: all i remimber is pumping it hard and shooting than trying to pump again

---

<death09>my girlfriend broke up with me and sent me pix of her and her new boyfriend in bed
<ktp753>ouch.
<death09>yeah.i sent them to her dad

#12 User is offline   CaptainSlug 

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 09:00 PM

You can add loctite to the threads, but it's much easier to just use screws with nested lock washers.

#13 User is offline   General Cole 

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 09:33 PM

An update on my three. McMasterCarr jacked my order up bad and I got black rod for the stocks, and all my plastic sheeting was tinted. And I can't find my taps and I cut most of one finger off because I forgot how it felt to use a scroll saw. The finger might heal AFTER they reattach it, so its all on hold now. But yeah, I spend 120 bucks and I need to get more 1/8in sheet. A reccomendation, buy a 12x24 sheet for more than one gun.
We should stop calling out/making fun of/pissing GC off. He's actually contributed and is available for trade. He's a better than average member no doubt. Got your back Cole.
-Nerfer34

You know what... I know it's kinda late... but Props Cole.
-Baghead

#14 User is offline   CaptainSlug 

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 05:59 AM

The black rod is normal, it doesn't matter what color it is, I just chose the more affordable stuff.
The sheets are supposed to be tinted because that's the more affordable stuff too.
Many of the parts I made my gun out of are clear because that's scrap that I bought from Piedmont Plastics.

Good luck with your recovery.

#15 User is offline   General Cole 

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 08:55 PM

Ahhhh thanks. The tinted looks good too, but I was just wondering. The guns are still waiting for the plastic tap to be found in the bed of the truck and I was wondering what the little screws on the side of the gun are for. I can't see what they attach too. The finger will probably be okay, but typing and video games and the like are pretty hard so far.
We should stop calling out/making fun of/pissing GC off. He's actually contributed and is available for trade. He's a better than average member no doubt. Got your back Cole.
-Nerfer34

You know what... I know it's kinda late... but Props Cole.
-Baghead

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