If you're talking about carbon fiber, then it's lighter than mostly any other stable building material but five times the cost. I don't think I'll be using carbon fiver any time soon seeing as it's $55.00 for a 4" section of 1/2" tubing. The largest size that I can get carbon fiber rods from McMaster is 3/4 OD for solid rods and 1.6" for actual tubing, neither being feasible price wise.Yeah, I was thinking you were using it for other purposes. How big O.D. does the carbon rod come? I guess any stress applied to it would be on the end, or if the spring was a little off-center, it would rub, but not much. It seems like a more expensive method, when CPVC is cheaper, but also somewhat heavier (or so I assume).
Shadow 92's Content
There have been 189 items by Shadow 92 (Search limited from 03-January 97)
#107542 A Pump Action Snap
Posted by
on 25 May 2007 - 12:14 AM
in
Homemades
#107581 A Pump Action Snap
Posted by
on 25 May 2007 - 07:32 PM
in
Homemades
I tested my Big SNAP's ranges today. I had to replace the brushing and make a new barrel, but it was worth it. With a 12" PVC barrel and mega stefans, it shot about 75' flat with a slight breeze. With a 16" barrel, it was going 85-90 with no wind. If I were to re-lube the gasket and the plunger, glue the brushing and the coupler to the gun, and actually add weights to my darts I could probably pass the century mark.
I'll post pics of the nearly completed bolt and barrel later.
Edit: Hey I double posted! I wonder why I couldn't do that before?
I'll post pics of the nearly completed bolt and barrel later.
Edit: Hey I double posted! I wonder why I couldn't do that before?
#108000 A Pump Action Snap
Posted by
on 28 May 2007 - 06:06 PM
in
Homemades
After discovering that 3/4 OD PETG fits loosely inside 3/4 PVC, I redesigned the breach and barrel system. The PETG should be thick enough to withstand the pressure of the springs with a 2.5" breech, which I was worried about with the first design. I also won;t have to drill the 1/2" PVC to let the PETG fit.
Here's how it works:
The PETG is hot glued to the reducing brushing. The PVC will be inserted inside the reducing brushing's built in coupler. This picture shows what the parts would look like when at rest (after firing and before priming).
When the handle is pulled back, the whole barrel moves, pushing the plunger head back until it locks into place. Meanwhile, the breach in the PETG moves back until it matches the breach with the PVC. The breech is highlighted with painter's tape. Fortunately, the distance the plunger head moves back until it hits the back endcap and the distance the breech needs to fully open are the same. This lets me load a dart as soon as the gun is cocked.
After the plunger head gets caught on the trigger I'll be able to push the barrel forward until the 1.25"-3/4" reducing brushing hits the 2"-3/4" reducing brushing. To prevent air from escaping through the breech when the gun fires, I plan to place to o-rings around the breech on the barrel so as soon as the barrel is pushed forward, the breech is sealed.
Note: Just for conveince, I probably make the pump handle bigger using 1.25" PVC.
Here's how it works:
The PETG is hot glued to the reducing brushing. The PVC will be inserted inside the reducing brushing's built in coupler. This picture shows what the parts would look like when at rest (after firing and before priming).
When the handle is pulled back, the whole barrel moves, pushing the plunger head back until it locks into place. Meanwhile, the breach in the PETG moves back until it matches the breach with the PVC. The breech is highlighted with painter's tape. Fortunately, the distance the plunger head moves back until it hits the back endcap and the distance the breech needs to fully open are the same. This lets me load a dart as soon as the gun is cocked.
After the plunger head gets caught on the trigger I'll be able to push the barrel forward until the 1.25"-3/4" reducing brushing hits the 2"-3/4" reducing brushing. To prevent air from escaping through the breech when the gun fires, I plan to place to o-rings around the breech on the barrel so as soon as the barrel is pushed forward, the breech is sealed.
Note: Just for conveince, I probably make the pump handle bigger using 1.25" PVC.
#101907 New Style Nitemav
Posted by
on 06 April 2007 - 06:13 PM
in
Modifications
Nice work on the Nite Mav. Can we get internal pics? I'm almost done making mine, I'm just having problems with the catch spring.
#103835 Your Weapon Setup.
Posted by
on 03 May 2007 - 08:47 PM
in
Off Topic
With my primaries, I'll usually switch between my Airtech 4000 and my Longshot. I'll sometimes use my Titan with a 6" barrel at four to seven pumps. If I feel like using a sidearm I use my Nite Finder with an Ultralite barrel but I'll soon be using my Nite-Mav once it's finished. For indoor wars, I like to dual-wield with my Nite Finders.
#144672 Check Out My First Homemade
Posted by
on 10 March 2008 - 11:27 PM
in
Homemades
Sorry if we appear to be harping on primer and safety, but that's because PVC isn't rated for gas pressure: those ratings on the tube are for liquid only. That, and when it fails, it tends to fail explosively (and with shrapnel). Because of that, safety precautions are a good thing...and that means PVC cement with primer.
What's the difference between liquid pressure and gas pressure? I mean if you have a liquid at 25 psi and a gas at 25 psi then that means they're both exerting 25 pounds of pressure per square inch. I don't get why it wouldn't be rated for both liquid and gas? The only possible explanation is that air pressure more easily fluctuates with temperature than liquid. And if that's the case, I don't see why it isn't safe to take PVC rated to 120 psi to 100 psi (assuming that it is glued properly). Unless you fill the air tank outside in the snow and then bring back inside to your house with the temperature set to 90, I don't think that you could raise the pressure enough by an increase in temperature to cause it to explode with a 20 psi buffer.
EDIT: nice gun. I like the airtank's extension into the foregrip. Have you ever considered using a blow gun trigger to pilot the solenoid?
#144828 Check Out My First Homemade
Posted by
on 11 March 2008 - 10:54 PM
in
Homemades
Pressurizing pvc in the snot is a bad idea all together. You just thought about the gas properties. You failed to take the pvc's properties into consideration. When pvc gets cold it gets significantly brittle from when it's at room temperature. The pvc just doesn't have the stretch as it did when it was warmer.
I don't recall the properties of abs. Although that's usually left for basic combustion spudguns, not pneumatics.
I never said I pressurized a cannon in the snow. I was merely using it as an extreme example to demonstrate the rare occurence when a temperature change would result in the explosion of PVC pipe due to an increase in temperature.
"The main problem with using PVC pipe and fittings for compressed gas is not that it spontaneously explodes but that PVC is a brittle material that can be broken or shattered with external force unless properly protected. Compressed gasses can be best described as being analogous to a coiled spring. When a PVC pipe or fitting fails when under stress from compressed gas it literally explodes like a bomb, sending shards of plastic flying several feet in all directions. Liquids, on the other hand, being compressed by only 1/10th of 1% contain very little stored energy. When pressurized systems with liquids fail, the energy is dissipated very quickly, thereby creating a much lower potential for hazard. "
In other words, they hydrotest HPA tanks because it's a helluva lot less dangerous than using air.
Okay, I get it. I always thought that people said that because they believed that PVC would be more likely to fail because a gas was being used as opposed to liquid, for which it is rated for. I understand now that PVC can handle 100 psi (depending on the size), but if it were to exceed the pressure rating then it would fail catastrophicly as opposed to simply leaking.
Wow, this turned into a very informative debate. Usually someone gets butt hurt and starts yelling (or typing agressively
) but this was surprisingly pleasant. I learned a lot. Why can't all topics be like this?
#169589 Design For Comments/critique
Posted by
on 15 August 2008 - 10:46 PM
in
Homemades
Here's a quick design I came up with. It's made mostly of PVC and hardware that you can get from Lowes or Home Depot. The trigger is a simple delay trigger, where when you pull it, it dumps the air tank to the right and if you pull it more, it dumps the air tank to left. The picture should explain most of the stuff.
#160115 Eye Protection
Posted by
on 23 June 2008 - 01:56 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Seriously, I use a pair of sunglasses. It doesn't really matter though because lately I've been playing with low level guns and special darts.I use eyelids.
Don't. Trust me, pick up a pair of eye protection. Risking losing your vision is not worth saving a couple bucks.
#160054 Eye Protection
Posted by
on 22 June 2008 - 10:59 PM
in
Nerf Wars
I use eyelids.
#99258 How To Make A Homemade Turret
Posted by
on 04 February 2007 - 10:44 AM
in
Modifications
I don't really get it. What's the spring for? I know that the spring in an Airtech 2000 is used to lock the barrels into place but since you don't have the locks on your barrel, why would you need it? Anyways nice job.
#107492 The Snap-m
Posted by
on 24 May 2007 - 10:18 PM
in
Homemades
I like it. The trigger makes up half of the gun
Shadow Hunter Alpha's right, Handyman springs are the best for small guns.
Things to improve:
See if I could use the seal backer as the nail catch, so I could eliminate one washer and the spacer.
Get a heavier spring.
Shadow Hunter Alpha's right, Handyman springs are the best for small guns.
#100957 Frozen Plasticine - Bb Like Ammunition
Posted by
on 09 March 2007 - 08:01 PM
in
Homemades
That looks pretty cool. The overall idea is great, the accuracy of Stephans with the fun of stock darts. I think I might put hoppers on all of my guns if I buy some of this stuff. Then all I would have to do is figure out how to make a barrel that gives the balls back spin and I'm set! So, where can I buy plasticine?
#112625 How To Epoxy
Posted by
on 22 June 2007 - 11:58 PM
in
Modifications
It shouldn't last long if you worked in a ventilated area. (That "toxicky" smell means that you're breathing in small amounts of toxins.) If it says " This substance has been known to cause cancer in California," or something like that, just move to another state.Um, how long does that toxicky smell last?
And what with that warning on the back where it says that the state of California claims epoxy has cancerous toxins?
Nice tutorial, I'll have to try the groove thing when I get around to re-modding my other 3B.
#124424 Your Day Of Nerfing
Posted by
on 28 September 2007 - 11:50 PM
in
General Nerf
I like this thread.
Well, I've been having a slow nerf week. All I did was design a homemade hose handle, debated whether a PVC or HPA external tank would be more air efficient, and looked back at some of my first mods.
Well, I've been having a slow nerf week. All I did was design a homemade hose handle, debated whether a PVC or HPA external tank would be more air efficient, and looked back at some of my first mods.
#107525 Cutting Brass
Posted by
on 24 May 2007 - 11:31 PM
in
Modifications
I think that's normal because of brass' thin walls. All you have to do is use some sort of flaring tool. (Forgot what it's called)I have been unable to get my pipecutters to cut the pipe without deforming one end, but that may be due to bad technique or bad pipecutters.
#107514 Cutting Brass
Posted by
on 24 May 2007 - 11:15 PM
in
Modifications
I've never worked with brass but I'm pretty sure most people use a hacksaw/woodsaw and a miter box or pipe cutters. If you're really into getting straight cuts then you would use a bandsaw or a table saw (cough, CS, cough 
)
)
#161947 A New, Easy, Valve
Posted by
on 08 July 2008 - 01:18 PM
in
Homemades
The flow rate seems low and it looks like it wastes some space. It can be scaled up to nerf proporions, but it wouldn't be the most efficeint design. Great find though!
#176476 Homemade Pump
Posted by
on 10 September 2008 - 07:29 PM
in
Homemades
This is VERY basic, at best. To be useful, it would need to include a check valve at minimum. Also, I don't see the point of building a pump for a nerf gun out of 1/2" PVC; the best way to add volume is to increase the diameter of the air column being utilized. 1/2" is a pathetically small pump if you want to fill a good-sized air tank without breaking your arm. ~Rork
Actually, a small diameter pump would be great for a compact, higher pressure tank.
Hey Blasphemy have you ever used a dual action pump for a homemade before? I've always wondered how comfortable it felt.
PS: First post using Ubuntu! w00t
#176729 Homemade Pump
Posted by
on 11 September 2008 - 08:19 PM
in
Homemades
HELL YEAH!EDIT: @shadow: ubuntu FTW!
#163460 Message To The General Public - Regarding Spud Guns.
Posted by
on 20 July 2008 - 06:24 PM
in
Homemades
Umm, I'm part of both Spudfiles and Nerfhaven. While you did make valid points (some I agree with), this isn't really the place to do so.
#95779 Christmas List 2006
Posted by
on 02 December 2006 - 11:09 PM
in
Off Topic
Hehe I might sig that.I always knew that Santa was Hawaiian.... But it's the holiday season. Consider this a present from the staff of NerfHaven. Ho. Ho. Ho.
Heres my list:
1. Maxshot
2. Magstrike
3. Another Longshot
4. One of thosse realistic lightsabers from Sharper Image
5. R2-D2 (the life size one with a cup holder)
6. X-Box 360
7. PS3
8. A jet pack
9. A kangaroo (they're actually legal pets where I live)
Out of the list, I bet I'm only really getting the Magstirke and the Maxshot. The rest of the stuff is just for kicks.
#89783 High Powered Pistol(s)
Posted by
on 15 September 2006 - 07:04 PM
in
Homemades
Super Soaker to Nerf Mod
It's not as small as a Nite Finder, Tech Target, or SSII but it's still small enough to be a pistol. Try using stefans, you might get better ranges than what fobpawwor got. You can find the liquidator right here.
Or you could just single or quad an AT2K if you want amazing range without having to pump as much.
PS: I got an industrial spring similar to the one Carrtoon used. The results are very satisfactory but I feel like the plunger rod is going to break off every time I cock it.
It's not as small as a Nite Finder, Tech Target, or SSII but it's still small enough to be a pistol. Try using stefans, you might get better ranges than what fobpawwor got. You can find the liquidator right here.
Or you could just single or quad an AT2K if you want amazing range without having to pump as much.
PS: I got an industrial spring similar to the one Carrtoon used. The results are very satisfactory but I feel like the plunger rod is going to break off every time I cock it.
#102953 Sonic Bazooka Mod
Posted by
on 29 April 2007 - 11:15 AM
in
Modifications
Nice mod, it looks pretty clean. I think you can pull even more out of the gun with a longer barrel. The Sonic Bazooka has a pretty large air tank if I remember right. A good 16" should be enough to fully accelerate the dart.
#162029 Foam Recommendations
Posted by
on 08 July 2008 - 11:06 PM
in
General Nerf
I have had 3 bags of Frost King foam and each bag blows. I couldn't get the foam to shrink in the dryer. So far my favorite type of FBR is Lowes brand ( I think its Lowes home brand, but I can't be sure ). It comes in a purple and clear bag.
Heating causes foam to expand. Stretch your foam if you want it to shrink.
#162807 Foam Recommendations
Posted by
on 14 July 2008 - 08:35 PM
in
General Nerf
In my experience, both stock micros and my stefans have a diameter closer to .51" rather than .5" and .56".
#161950 Foam Recommendations
Posted by
on 08 July 2008 - 01:33 PM
in
General Nerf
I use Frost King and my darts are just fine. To keep them at a consistent diameter, I stretch/ blow dry them to fit my barrels.
#157439 Universal Range Testing
Posted by
on 29 May 2008 - 10:14 PM
in
General Nerf
I may not be practical for most people, but someone posted a write up on how to use some freeware and a set of mics to measure velocity. I've always liked seeing power in terms of FPS because it eliminates any angling.
#147102 Intro / Question
Posted by
on 26 March 2008 - 12:42 PM
in
Homemades
If you're going to make a semi auto valve, why not just make a semi auto valve too? It wouldn't be too hard. All you would need is a regular piston, a valve that both fills air and cuts it off, and a semi auto valve.
Here's a diagram that shows a valve that will both allow air in to fill the chamber and pilot it. Its the part labeled 3 port valve. (I didn't make the diagram, someone else on Spudfiles did to help me with a semi-auto design.)
Heres a link to working semi-auto bolt.
Combine those two things with a barrel sealing piston and you have yourself a semi auto blaster.
Or you could try and improve on this
^Link^
Here's a diagram that shows a valve that will both allow air in to fill the chamber and pilot it. Its the part labeled 3 port valve. (I didn't make the diagram, someone else on Spudfiles did to help me with a semi-auto design.)
Heres a link to working semi-auto bolt.
Combine those two things with a barrel sealing piston and you have yourself a semi auto blaster.
Or you could try and improve on this
^Link^
#102945 Clip Fed Maverick
Posted by
on 29 April 2007 - 10:51 AM
in
Modifications
If you clip a Nite-Mav, you'll have a faster reload time but you'll also have a slower rate of fire, which defeats the purpose of having the Mav's auto rotating barrels. And If you plan on integrating a Nite Finder inside a Maverick and then clipping it with KB Barker's clips, there wouldn't be a difference between that and KB Barker's Nite Finder other than it's in a Maverick shell.
But there is one way. You could clip the Nite-Mav's barrels instead of adding clipped Nite Finder barrels.
CaptainSlug's Front End Swappable Clips
Nite-Mav ROF with incredible reload times.
But there is one way. You could clip the Nite-Mav's barrels instead of adding clipped Nite Finder barrels.
CaptainSlug's Front End Swappable Clips
Nite-Mav ROF with incredible reload times.
#146594 Point Of Putting An Ar In A Gun
Posted by
on 24 March 2008 - 01:04 PM
in
Modifications
ARs also prevents people from putting objects other than darts insides a barrel. Imagine what would happen if you stuck a screwdriver inside a longshot. In addition, ARs allow hasbro to make the actual gun more powerful. If there wasn't an AR, the gun could only fire at its best straight out of the box.
#125007 Converting Water Guns>?
Posted by
on 04 October 2007 - 12:32 PM
in
General Nerf
I'm pretty sure that most Super Soakers don't have Nerf-style over pressure valve on their pumps.well today I bought a maxd 5000 for 2.99$ at value village and as far as im concerned all I have to do is plug the pressure valve? and add a barrel if im not mistaken.
EDIT: Here's a link showing how to "freeze the check valve."
#102652 So, The Atom Blaster...
Posted by
on 27 April 2007 - 06:42 PM
in
Modifications
Just to clear things up, any gun with a 1/2" PVC barrel can fire stock darts because it has a 5/8" ID.
Funny Jake, adding a spring sounds like a good idea.
Funny Jake, adding a spring sounds like a good idea.
#165437 Padded Stephans?
Posted by
on 30 July 2008 - 03:01 PM
in
Modifications
I make my darts with about 1/4" padded tip. They work fine.
#104318 This Is My First Homemade
Posted by
on 06 May 2007 - 09:56 PM
in
Homemades
You could just make a pump from PVC. Chances are, it'll be a lot cheaper and mare fun than buying one.Where did you get the 5$ bike pump? I have been looking for a cheap pump for a while now.
EDIT: Almost forgot. Nice job with your first homemade.
#94727 Longshot Question.
Posted by
on 17 November 2006 - 07:30 PM
in
Modifications
I think I might have found out a way to brass a longshot and still create an airtight seal. I thought about replacing the barrel with 10'' of 19/32'' with 6'' of 17/32'' and putting it where Carrtoon put his barrel. Then you would trim the bolt like The Inventor Guy did, except you would put a 3'' section of 1/2'' brass into the bolt so only a small portion (1/32'') sticks out of the front. This way the dart slides into the 1/2'' section and the tip of that slides into the 17/32'' brass creating an airtight seal but still allows the bolt to move.
If you want, you're welcome to testing this and using this in your write-up Forsaken. I don't have brass so I won't be doing this anytime soon.
If you want, you're welcome to testing this and using this in your write-up Forsaken. I don't have brass so I won't be doing this anytime soon.
#143242 Pneumatic Blow (air) Gun Tool
Posted by
on 29 February 2008 - 08:58 PM
in
Homemades
They aren't that useful as a main valve for nerf darts but they're handy when it comes to piloting a piston valve or firing smaller projectiles such as bbs. Check a place like spudfiles for more information on either.
#100971 Concept Dart
Posted by
on 09 March 2007 - 11:42 PM
in
Modifications
Someone posted something like this awhile ago. The only thing they did differently was they cut the dart after the glued the dome, I think. I don't remember how they handled dividing the weights inside the glue though.
Instead of keeping the pieces separate before loading, why don't you wrap them in a sort of paper shell? This way it keeps the pieces together and you can just slide off the paper when you're ready to load.
CS, doesn't stacking short darts end to end limit the range on the darts? The dart closest to the air source just pushes the darts in front of it. That works, but only in smaller amounts such as two to three. His way all darts receive an equal amount of force, increasing range. And if need be it he can stack those shot gun darts too resulting in eight to twelve darts being fired at once at an incredible range. (Just an idea but imagine three stacks of his shotgun darts in all twenty barrels of your Magstrike 20. That's 240 darts flying out all at once! You could take out entire teams with that!)
Instead of keeping the pieces separate before loading, why don't you wrap them in a sort of paper shell? This way it keeps the pieces together and you can just slide off the paper when you're ready to load.
CS, doesn't stacking short darts end to end limit the range on the darts? The dart closest to the air source just pushes the darts in front of it. That works, but only in smaller amounts such as two to three. His way all darts receive an equal amount of force, increasing range. And if need be it he can stack those shot gun darts too resulting in eight to twelve darts being fired at once at an incredible range. (Just an idea but imagine three stacks of his shotgun darts in all twenty barrels of your Magstrike 20. That's 240 darts flying out all at once! You could take out entire teams with that!)
#162929 Ls Bolt Rechambering
Posted by
on 15 July 2008 - 08:27 PM
in
Modifications
Nice write up, but you never explained why it had to be a Forstner drill bit.
