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Ls Bolt Rechambering

The Shadow Bolt

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#1 Bullshit Dragon

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 11:50 AM

Well, I finally finished my very first LS mod where nothing bad happened. My LS is out of commission (I'm sure many of you know why,) but a buddy of mine asked me to mod is crappy stock LS that he bought last night (mon 7/14.)

Materials you will need:
1 N-Strike Longshot CS-6
1 Dremel w/ cutoff wheel for metal
1 LONG 17/32 Forstner drill bit (it MUST be a Forstner drill bit)
12" of 17/32 brass tubing
1 Ultra Fine point Sharpie
1 #2 Philips-head Screwdriver
1 Very Small Philips-head Screwdriver
Harvey's Silicone Grease
1 Needle file or 80-grit sandpaper

Additional Standard Mods:
1 BBB Spring addition
1 O-Ring addition
Harvey's Silicone Grease

Okay, so start off with disassembling your LS by removing all the screws and carefully pulling the shell apart. Remove the Jam Door and set it aside, you'll need it later. Next, remove the bolt/plunger tube assembly and carefully use the very small screwdriver to push out the little metal pin so you can remove the bolt sled (the blue piece pinned to the bolt.) Once you have the bolt sled removed, remove the screws from the back of plunger tube and remove the plunger assembly, again, set it aside and don't lose the screws.

Now, chuck the Forstner bit into whatever drill you're using and set the speed on one of the lowest settings. Plastic is soft, you don't need to get carried away. Drill out the AR from LS to alleviate about 70% of the LS's problems. After you hear the AR spring get tangled in the drill bit, stop drilling (or continually check it, whatever you prefer) and remove the little bugger, throw the AR away, you don't need it.

After you get the AR out of the way, flip the bolt/plunger tube assembly over and look down it. You'll notice the Dart Peg. This is the piece that keeps you from loading Stefans. Take the #2 Philips-head screw driver and smash that little fucker out so the bolt looks like a long tube.

Next, take your brass tubing and gently push it just a little ways in. You'll notice that while the bolt LOOKS like it'll take the brass tubing without issue, but I assure you that it's just a hair too big (again, you likely know how I know.) The bolt is a long tube, so you need a long drill bit. Carefully drill out the entire length of the bolt to just beyond the OP hole, your brass should fit nicely now, if it's too lose, you'll need to epoxy it in later, if it's just a hair snug, you're golden, you'll just need to put some silicone grease on it before the final assembly.

Push the brass tubing down the bolt until it reaches the spot you stopped drilling (or the back of the bolt, whichever comes first.) Take your sharpie and trace the outline of the plastic onto the brass tubing. Once complete, remove the tubing and use your dremel's cutoff wheel to cut along the lines you made. DO NOT OVER CUT, you need to do this with CS accuracy. Once you finish cutting it out, set the left over tubing aside so you can use it in a later mod. Use the file or the sandpaper to knock the rough edges off. Be sure to clean off any extra metal filings within the tube because they WILL mess your gun up.

The piece of brass tubing now is a shadow of the existing bolt, therefore, I'm calling this the Shadow Bolt. Push Shadow Bolt into the original bolt with whatever you need to make it stay in (silicone grease if it's too tight, epoxy if it's too lose.) Once you have it seated correctly (see why I told you not to over cut?) and locked into place, do the spring and o-ring additions before generously applying silicone grease to the o-rings and reassemble the entire gun, being sure to plug the OP hole in the bolt just to be sure.

This mod adds 15-20ft of range to the already long-range Longshot. The dual springs coupled with the tight-fitting bolt ensure a large volume of air is moved and trapped just right.

Comments? Flames? Questions?

And I'm sorry about the lack of pics, my little bro stole and lost my digital cam and I'm working on getting a new one.

Edited by Bullet Dragon, 20 July 2008 - 03:15 PM.

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#2 Banshee

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 12:24 PM

Very nice, but my advice to you is try getting some pictures before you do a write up.
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#3 Bullshit Dragon

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 12:29 PM

Pics are for ppl that are lazy. This is crystal clear to me (of course I'm the one that wrote it, so it should be.) I know they say a pic is worth a thousand words, but I think a proper understanding of the english language is more valuable.

EDIT: Okay... that was rude of me... I'm just mad at my little bro, sorry Banshee. You are right, pics would help, but I can't supply them so lots of text is my friend. I am working on getting a new digital cam though ^^

Edited by Bullet Dragon, 15 July 2008 - 12:37 PM.

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#4 MrDelish

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 01:14 PM

No, he's right.

A write-up without pictures is like hieroglyphics to some of us.
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#5 Blacksunshine

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 02:02 PM

Not gonna flame you for not taking pics you took the time to type all this and did a pretty good job. But maybe some graphical representation of a few of the specifics like how far to push the brass into the bolt and where exactly where your cutting. I have a question tho on the ar removal. Why go thru the drilling hassel? Why not just take pliers and breaking the three tabs that hold the AR assembly in place? It only takes a few seconds and removes the whole thing all at once.
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#6 Bullshit Dragon

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 02:05 PM

Since you have to drill the bolt anyway, I figured it was a good idea to drill out the AR instead of just yanking it, besides, you get better air flow if you have the whole tube open vs just punching the dart peg.
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#7 venom213

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 03:40 PM

Nice mod. So basically you just shoved a piece of brass into the stock barrel, the part that actually holds the dart? I might have to do this, I always hated how the longshot could only barrel regular length stefans well if you heavily modded it.
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#8 Bullshit Dragon

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 04:27 PM

That hits the nail on the head pretty squarely, Venom. It's a really effective mod too, my LS got totally messed up from doing it because I was careless when I was doing it, but I applied what I learned to my friend's LS and it was a big help.
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#9 venom213

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 05:52 PM

Are you sure that you need a whole 12" of brass. It seems like you would only need about 3-6" or however long the dart chamber is.
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#10 Bullshit Dragon

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 06:56 PM

The 12" is so you have something to grab onto after you mark the cutting lines.
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#11 venom213

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 07:13 PM

Do you think that 8" would be long enough, that's the longest piece that I have on hand.
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#12 Bullshit Dragon

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 07:20 PM

I'd think so.
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#13 Shadow 92

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 08:27 PM

Nice write up, but you never explained why it had to be a Forstner drill bit.

Edited by Shadow 92, 15 July 2008 - 08:28 PM.

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#14 Bullshit Dragon

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 08:37 PM

Forstner Bits are designed to cut slowly. I got the idea after reading CS's guide to machining plastics. I tried it out on a whim and it worked wonderfully.
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#15 Shadow 92

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 08:45 PM

Oh I see. I used a regular drill bit and didn't have any problems. But I'm glad your mod turned out fine.
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#16 Quilan Fett

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Posted 20 July 2008 - 12:38 AM

I have to be nitpicky. If someone is following your mod directly, they are likely to screw up their gun. You stated that you should epoxy the brass into the stock breech, then remove it. This is rather hard to do.
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#17 Bullshit Dragon

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Posted 20 July 2008 - 03:12 PM

I have to be nitpicky. If someone is following your mod directly, they are likely to screw up their gun. You stated that you should epoxy the brass into the stock breech, then remove it. This is rather hard to do.


I can see where you'd get that impression. Thanks for pointing out that little problem for me. It was fairly early in the morning for me when I wrote this and there was bound to be some typos.

Edited by Bullet Dragon, 20 July 2008 - 03:17 PM.

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#18 CaptainSlug

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Posted 20 July 2008 - 05:25 PM

Pics are for ppl that are lazy.

Pics are for people that like to know what is going on and in what order. Especially when there is no breakdown manual for the item in question that uniformly labels each part with a specific name. I tried to make one with some unified clear terms and names for parts but that's just my attempt to make sense of such a complicated item.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 20 July 2008 - 05:26 PM.

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#19 Bullshit Dragon

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Posted 20 July 2008 - 06:35 PM

Pics are for ppl that are lazy.

Pics are for people that like to know what is going on and in what order. Especially when there is no breakdown manual for the item in question that uniformly labels each part with a specific name. I tried to make one with some unified clear terms and names for parts but that's just my attempt to make sense of such a complicated item.


I am working hard on getting pics up. I know they're important to any mod at all and this is no exception. Cash has been difficult for me to come by between being sick and not having a job, but I am working at it.
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