You can make homemade springs out of music wire,
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Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 07 December 2016 - 11:16 PM
I'm pretty late to doing this BUT, I got it done before Christmas.
Little late definitely since I made the original version as a prototype in a few hours back in like, March but it got war tested over a year, and heavily improved. Updates are a METAL priming bar, smoother prime and a pistol grip if you choose to add one. Not mandatory, and excessively complicated.
Anyway, here's kinda what it would look like, I added on a side plate mount and a little bit of a few extra things for my self.
The original VGS Mk1 (as shown above) had been war tested heavily, brought on excessive ops and had about a few thousand shots fired through it. Not lying, I go to wars heavily lol. Nothing broke, and 2 months ago I added a secondary spring for fuck you power, I'm unaware of it's origin. So it's safe to say the janky version did just fine, this is the refined version that had about 100 shots put through it, seems fine right now and will be war tested soon at NYCNO 2.
This guide however, will help you make something like this
Also, I recommend completing the original Sentinel Mod guide and knock out the AR and stuff.
/insert someone complaining about van talking too much here
What do you need?
Well you need
-A metal flat bar (one used can be found here, any should work)
-An LS priming bolt (or any long thick screw near that size)
-epoxy putty (1 small canister)
-#6 flathead machine screws (like, at least 7?)
-6 in of 1 in PVC
And for tools,
-dremel (cutting wheel and sanding drum)
-drill (with bits up to 1/2 in)
-soldering iron (don't ask)
-Vice (preferably but I off handed a lot of it)
-Tap (would be nice but not neccesary)
All photos will have description BELOW the photo
(Some photos have been lost, like material and first steps but eh)
PUMP GRIP MOUNT
hope you have everything, lol this is a filler for me cutting the retaliator up standard VG style
Cut out the Pump part of the retaliator. remove everything inside, all support bits, gone. Flatten it out, use pliers to rip it out, dremel it down, whatever.
You want it like this,
Than cut off the back and make it nice like this.
Now sand down the sentinel shell on both sides. Take your time, be slow, remove all ribbing but you still want material.
If you want to know how thin, it should look like this when you shine light from the other side. again, both sides should be like this.
You can cut here, because when you put the slide rails on it needs an indent.
You can cut lower and make a slot strip similar to above so you have clearance later. I forgot about this on the Mk 1 but I have a resolve. Save these plastic strips in case you add a foregrip
So your sentinel hand guard should look like this, so put test and put your ret shell over it.
You also kinda want to sand a bit here, not too much though
You do that so you can attach your retaliator pump grip. It should fit flush and the retaliator shell halves should be able to close and sit over the sentinels sanded front area. .
Like so. The ret shell should be loose fit over the sentinel as E putty will be used to secure it later. If it's not flush, you have to go back and keep sanding inside the ret shell and the sentinel shell
Use some epoxy putty to fill in the gaps, so the sentinel can adhere to the retaliator. Put epoxy everywhere, and than put both shell halves back together to make sure they're on level.
IF YOU CUT HIGH LIKE I DID TO MOUNT THE SLIDE, AND THERE LOOKS LIKE THERE'S GOING TO BE OBSTRUCTION KEEP READING
Alright so 1 in PVC kinda fits over the original sentinel Faux barrel. I just put some 1 in to mark and started grinding + sanding away
Your 1 in PVC extension should not interfere with darts and sit flush on the pump like so. You can cut any 1 in PVC tube to whatever size you want, so you can have a really long barrel for lolz
ughh slots. At least they're small
if you don't have metal, you CAN use PVC like I originally did but it's not recommended. Anyway, put the bar on the sentinel and mark an x to drill like, kinda near the slot but not right on where it begins. Give it clearance and mark it a little bit off
Do that to the other arm
drill a small pilot hole in those x marks
than take a drill bit and see which is a little larger than your connecting bar (LS bolt lol) . Drill through the pilot holes with that on both sides.
Now put your bolt through to test. Put both arms on and the slide of the retaliator shell. Mark with X's where you want to drill and mount the metal slide to.
Now drill through these with a 5/64 bit (and tap if if you're cool)
now drill through and attatch to the pump slide. Put screws through, make sure they're flush and they can slide on the pump grip rails itself.
You can always mount throught the other side however. Than you would need to drill a countersink, but I use a 1/2 in bit. Anyway, cut off any excess screw on either side. If you want, you can thread lock it with superglue.
It should look like this, and slide around on the rails even if you squeeze it. If it doesn't, sand down some of the screw because there might be excess screw left. Make sure you test it with both halves connected.
From here, you can assemble your sentinel and have a working pump action sentinel, kinda like the original. If you're satisfied, this is all you need. No need for a pistol grip, it is kinda weird to mount.
However, here is the
PISTOL GRIP MOUNT
Hope you have some strips of white plastic, didn't use all of your metal bar and a soldering iron. Anyway, cut off the ret pistol grip like so
Cut off the bottom of the Sentinel lever area here
Sand and make the pistol grip kinda fit like this on both sides. Cut down the front of the trigger and make sure it can move around.
once they're connected and aligned with shell halves, drill with a 1/16 in bit through the pistol grip on both sides. screw in both sides to make sure they're aligned.
Oh boi. Alright I reccomend you wear a mask and go outside for this. This is literally cancer. I'm going to have you weld to connect your pistol grip. You can try e putty but I feel there's not enough contact surfaces for that.
you can melt some plastic from both the grip and sentinel, and hold them together so they melt and fuse. I also melted a plastic strip over to connect and fill small bonds. I did this inside and out, and than covered the "welding" with e putty for reinforcement.
Cut down some remaining metal so it can connect and push the original trigger like so. Also make sure the ret trigger can move and there's a slot for the metal bar to move through
Connect with #6 screws to trigger and threadlock. I superglued the trigger and metal bar so it wouldn't move. Make sure it can depress the trigger all the way
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 05 December 2016 - 09:20 PM
Mags allowed? huehuehue
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 16 November 2016 - 01:12 AM
mmmmm tommorow if I'm not busy I can produce a writeup for SCS (Suction cup slug) which are a cut down USC with a felt pad glued on,
Those hop but you need a wide bore barrel.
The thing is with hopping blasters is you need to have the right barrel material and right dart fit. For instance, you could have beige foam and a tight CPVC barrel which, leads to them not working. We really need your hopper material because what is optimized for a certain fit and blaster can vary if you change one of 3 variables. (dart diameter, barrel material and blaster power)
With the right set up you can get your blaster to fire nearly any dart,
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 19 September 2016 - 01:39 AM
BuzzBee Reaper. Fucking bitch to open but a flat head can get the orange piece off the front.
More Aesthetic and a Kriss Vector sort of vibe from it.
If anything, it should keep up the sort of hype BuzzBee had from the Sentinel with it's power and ease of use.
I'll quit wasting your time, onto the review and internals.
As always, descriptions of the photo will be BELOW the photo.
3 shots into owning this, and I'm already disassembling it lol
Screws on the right side of the shell. Use a flathead to pry off the nozzle by going under. Most of the adhesive on my model is on the left side of the blaster.
and it's off. This is a bit annoying, and in reassembly I'm going to tap it so it's held in place with a screw or
Don't leave the nozzle off, or a very important pin will fall out. That pin is essential for the function of the blaster, and a bit finicky. Be very fucking careful removing the shell halfs from another.
BuzzBee and their retention plates. It's easy to remove with a flat head to pry off the grip plates and expose a hidden screw.
Internals. Again, be really careful lifting the shell up and apart because there's a lock pin up front that is like a dart tooth but opens on trigger pull. This is so the dart seats in the barrel. A smaller version compared to the Sentinels dart tooth and displayed on the Champion and BuzzBee M16. The internals are nearly identical to the Champions.
Up close of the front. Trigger pulled, so the "dart tooth: is down. Be careful disassembling because some of the pieces are finicky and loose. Don't fuck with this if you don't have to
This piece is finicky as fuck. I said don't take it out, now it's a hassle to put it in.
spring mount has a larger flared plate, seems like it can accommodate a larger spring. Maybe easier to put a larger spring on? Didn't test.
lockbox. Just a trigger lock, can't disassemble but easily removable or reinstalled. Easy to remove and put back, which is cool and nice. If you want to remove it, up to you but I took it out just for de-priming reasons.
Comparisons to BuzzBee Sentinel Parts Sentinel plunger rod on the left and buzzbee one on the left. They are not interchangeable, and the padding is not stock. It's a modded sentinel plunger head. I would pad the other plunger head too, just for safety Sentinel spring on left, Reaper spring on right. Reaper spring is definitely weaker, or feels. Sentinel spring fits in the reaper, and vice versa.
I had a sentinel opened laying around, may as well compare for those who are interested.
Sentinel plunger tube on the bottom and the Reaper plunger tube on top. The reaper is a little shorter on plunger tube, but less deadspace? AR unit looks a little big. I heard removing the air restrictor is very little increase, so I didn't do it because I'm #lazyasfuck.
Sentinel plunger on the right, Reaper plunger on the left. shorter by just a bit. I bet you could remove the AR the same as the sentinel however,
Alright, now I stuck my dick in the reaper. It's cool, but there's not too much of a reason too. Maybe There will be a different styled mag release, because this is push up only ;c but with all the dead space, I bet you can put cool shit in there. I will release a pump action Reaper guide soon though.
Sentinel plunger rod on the left and buzzbee one on the left. They are not interchangeable, and the padding is not stock. It's a modded sentinel plunger head. I would pad the other plunger head too, just for safety
Sentinel spring on left, Reaper spring on right. Reaper spring is definitely weaker, or feels. Sentinel spring fits in the reaper, and vice versa.
primed and ready to get triggered. I re assembled my reaper in this format to leave the pin in position because it's finicky.
Grip taped like FUCK for extreme tactics and accenting purposes, with a mechanix glove for extra grip to hold onto all these operator tactics. Don't tell me you didn't cum looking at this, you know you did.
Demonstrated with a high capacity assault magazine and duct tape holding the front nozzle on. Worked at a war,
A successor to the BuzzBee Champion and competitor to retaliator and other spring powered pistol mag fed blasters.
Pistol grip is comfy, somethingsomething stereotypical bobo/coop/drac thing to comment on.
-Decent power, but first complaint, mag well sux.
-A lot harder to load into, I wish it was a little more flared but it's a little finicky to deal with. Obviously, drums don't work with this because mag sidewalls are can't accommodate that. You CAN hack out some parts of the reaper so you could, but like, why. You may as well should've got a champion if you wanted to do that because it's really similar.
-Another thing is the mag release, 3/10 derp release, can't even use it as a paddle. However I might do a side release or something. A transitional reload is kinda hard BUT you can do a gross motor skill reload. (I done it lol)
Pretty sub-optimal, looks cool as fuck without the mag.
I could see a cosplay use for cheap vector and just bolting shit to it and covering exposed magwell.
I'm thinking about adding a little nylon as a bolt/charging handle on the slide like a racegun.
I'm use PVC fitting on the front to make it pump action. Also a stock probably on the back would be doable, I would do it just so other people can replicate it. However that defeats the point of the reaper because close quarter extreme tight tactics, and I would use my sentinel, but I have a really close tight quarter war which is what I picked this up for.
If you really like the aesthetic you should pick one up but IMO the champion is more practical and better because it adapts all mags, has a less derpy mag release and I think cheaper. Also you could get a holster for it but ehh.
Reaper definitely looks cooler, which is what I'm going for because really close quarter pistol tactics. It has good power and I used it stock at NYCNO for a round with DX, I definitely enjoyed it, along with all the other people who decided to borrow it. Not a bad pickup, and something glorious from BuzzBee as always.
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 24 August 2016 - 01:08 AM
Before you ask where is my Pump action sentinel mod guide, why isn't my sear carbine writeup done, or whatever else I'm supposed to do like measure ___ / give specs for a PCSR, I do shit I enjoy when I'm here. I don't want to make this hobby feel like a job. Hence the lack of detail that will be in this guide. Procede reading that this mod can be done better and should be as this was done in 6 hours off handedwith a dremel on the side walk, with no lines drawn.
Also, familiarize yourself with the internals here.
As normal, text explaining the photo will be found below the photo. Don't aske me how to make that Stock, I'll either take a ton of pics documenting the finished product or I won't at all. The way I made it was so janky.
1/2 in PVC
1/16 in Polycarb
lotta machine screws.
Retaliator / recon shell
Boltcutter ( hold down screws )
Cut down a realiator shell like in the VGR guide, and hollow out the internals. I use a pair of pliers to pull everything out, you can use a sanding drum. Basically do eveything in here you do for the pump, because the flathead screw will run into something
Also, take the front pieces of your magnum and sand them down like this. This is so the retaliator shell can sit under it.
And I reattatched and cut out a bit of the retaliator so it'd fit in like this.
Do that to both sides, if you sand down the front half enought it should be good and you can close the ret shell
Make sure the clamshells are aligned, add eputty to secure everything in place and make sure it still closes evenly
Now I cut 1/2 in PVC into 1/3rd strips. If you can use anything else it will be better, but I'm cheap and lazy. (seriously you should get a different method lol.
Also make sure that there's clearance here so your arm doesn't interfere with drum. Just sand.
OH yea, bolt that shit through the top of the slide here ish so it won't touch the blaster when sliding back to the PVC. On the other side if you block the screw port with the arm, grind down the PVC to make clearance.
something something like this, it'll run to the front. Cut it down at the muzzle of the blaster
Cut out a polycarb L that connects to PVC and pump like so.
It should look kinda like this
Than bolt to PVC and the pump.
You should have done this to both sides. Also cut screws down to size, and than sand them flush so they don't slice you.
Yea it's ghetto and fugly. It's a feature.
Some pretty pictures
And you are done. Prime feels weird because of that second stage prime.
Maybe. Just maybe, I'll add how I put in a stock
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 18 August 2016 - 10:45 PM
I did some googling, here you go
I mean, I don't get your attatchment to that blaster. Hell, I bet if you keep thrifting you could find better blasters. I'd take a jolt over the speedloader because it just seems to work better. Thanks Dom for the recognition, I put like half an hour into that response to give a decent response and show lots of great easy blasters that are cheap, and now I'm feeling salty because I just realized that was all pointless. Again, Dart tag series is also pretty terrible. They need the old fat head darts, and that technology is outdated.
If you think that Buzzbee, the glorious cheap savior lord BuzzBee that's started the high FPS counter nerf scene is somehow too expensive, most of Dartzones stuff is under 20 dollars, and are also in a complete package. Here's a link to Dartzone. I haven't seen anything from the dart tag line outside of a speedswarm in my 3 years of combat because people come to realize they kinda suck.
Also guys. Are we really gonna do this. Lets not dracfight.
Reviews aren't the end all be all of a blaster, I'll just say that. Because one person likes it doesn't mean everyone else will.
-Are we gonna tag at the end like this now? Snoop Doggy Doge, UNC member, DIY Water war and SuperStock operator originating from NYC, under 18 and gunning down people that are way older than me.
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 17 August 2016 - 03:32 PM
K14s have a 3/8 space between each coil, each coil is 1/8 wide.
The 3D printed prototype I currently ahve my hands on is holding up fine, even with my abuse. I know the redirect piece has been updated, but I was intrigued by Kanes newest redirect piece for his ESLTs and would be curious if anyone with a printer would redo the files to accomadate and work in a PCSR.
The pieces I know that have to be strong are the stock, sear, redirect piece and plunger assembly. Those take the most stress and I also added a polycarbonate safety plate on the back of my PCSR before I added foam so just incase anything breaks, there's something else to buffer it. However since I have the extended draw version, it has a stupid long stock.
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 29 July 2016 - 06:25 PM
APOC teams end up being Valor vs Mystic vs Instinct + everyone else
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 22 July 2016 - 07:42 PM
Making NerfHaven Great Again!
Is the second photo a picture of the pump handle? confused by the second photo. Also I would reccomend a front barrel support, i my experience, the front and middle needs support since I use fully sheathed alu barrels
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 02 July 2016 - 12:36 AM
it's lit tommorow cuzz
We're bringing mobstacles, we just finished night rounds of testing. They're very fun but they're bulky and take time to set up. I think if you could help us bring the mobstacles and to and from the car, help setup and dissasembly and not break them, that'd be great.
Also, no superstock. There's so much we're bringing, just, god no lol. All this work, gotta be DIY all day.
(also we should prolly chip in a bit, like 1-100$ to Sam for spending 300+ on materials lol)
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 21 April 2016 - 11:13 PM
10/10 would rate again. Press f to pay respects to fallen.
Also Langleys story with the puppet accounts would be funny,
EDIT : Some of these links go to the same thing
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 27 February 2016 - 09:15 PM
So you like using full length stock darts?
This guide will inform you on acronyms and types of darts if you are new, or unaware and want to get into superstock. Which you decide to use is up to you. I reccomend using something optimal, and ordering all variants in small packs if possible to see what works best for you before you buy in bulk. (Or test in your local community)
This is an active WIP post that the community can input info into via PM or comment.
If you have any more info or want to change or edit what you have provided, please PM me what you may have added or changed.
I will not list prices or cheapest available links. Prices change and sellers can go dead, but searches always remain.
There are many darts available to purchase online. It is generally a good idea to order bulk darts for superstock off of cheaper links online, so you don't need to pay absurd hasbro prices for darts. The design and density of elite darts, kinda sucks in my opinion, but feel free to differ. Darts also go by many acronyms. While those acronyms sound cool and are generally shorter, they usually cannot be found on ebay or taobao by searching the name. This guide plan to solve that, and use eBay links
If you haven't bought eBay darts before, do not be afraid because of eBay rumors. I have not heard horror stories of people being ripped off for darts, and the very few instances I have heard from people who got less than they ordered, contacting the shipper usually gets them to promptly send the second batch, sometimes with a bonus to make up for it.
The shipping time on most darts will take a while, but once you settle on a dart type and consistently buy from the same seller, they usually send them to you faster. However, on the current eBay market, sellers keep discounting and cutting prices to remain competitve, bringing dart prices down faster. (Capitalism yo)
Also, usually you can get most darts in different colors by using the search term that'll be provided AND linked, along with adding color. Some variants may not have as many options as others however. There are also Glow variants of some of these darts that can be found if you add "glow" to your search
(Pictures below are from sellers, I have used all variants of darts but do not have them all at hand. They come as described)
Look for 7.2 Cm/2.7 inch darts. 6.5 cm/2.5 inch or any other length will not work in a stock blaster with the air restrictor or flywheels. 6.5 cm can feed in mags and in some breech springers, making it annoying for other people to use your darts if you want to be a dick.
The search terms (labeled with "quotation marks") will work on Amazon if you desire to search from there. Usually they're more expensive on Amazon but have faster shipping. It depends on the link and you have to do you own research. Also, the orginization on Amazon is different, so when searching for the dart make sure it matches the image in head shape.
(the head of the dart is primarily what differs between all offbrand darts)
Notes provided by the community are marked by dashes ( - )
Special thanks to CA-99 and Shandsgator8 for their input
Rave / USC darts : The name comes from the user Ravetrooper on Nerfhaven who discovered it, but USC stands for Universal Suction Clone. Not sure why or what that means, but that name stuck. My favorite type of dart, in my opinion the best. They fly straight for me and are cheap. Commonly the tip is cut off for aerodynamic purposes, but are fine the way they are.
These darts are not usually banned.
- Sometimes they don't work too well in flywheels, but they fly great in springers.
- Works reliably in all stock mags. May require extending the pusher in flywheels. Hopper reliability is somewhat poor (even when trimmed) and requires high powered air blasters to feed. This problem is exacerbated in the cold.
- Thicker dart fit, somewhat under .527 (although works in that barrel as a loose push fit) and works perfect with many stock blasters. (Slightly larger than Elite foam.) Dart head will not work in smaller CPVC barrels.
- Great weight distribution, flies well in low/no wind at 4B velocities. Not as aerodynamic.
-Multi purpose and can be converted into SCS darts, non metal slugs that are easier and faster to make for homemade hopper blasters!
Search "Nerf sucker dart"
Koosh darts : The flywheelers favorite. These darts are always commonly reffered to as a koosh darts from youtubers as the head is similar to a koosh ball, and have great popularity with HVZ due to excelled performance in flywheels. The name "koosh dart" became the selling standard now.
These darts are not usually banned.
The great thing about the youtube popularity, is that you can search for these darts using koosh, because sellers are trying to sell them as they are personal choices of youtubers, so making it easier to find for people.
- Works most reliably in flywheels. Reliability in magfed springers varies mainly due to dart fit and excess glue (in older generations). Removing the AR will significantly reduce the likelihood of misfires. Full-length not tested in hoppers, but half length hoppers okay. (Tested with air blasters such as XBZ and 2nd gen 4B.) However, the brushy dimples sometimes get displaced in long barrels, so it's not recommended.
-They work very well with flywheel blasters, except those with relatively long spiral "rifling," like the Rapidstrike. My experience (as well as many others) with using Koosh darts with a Rapidstrike are that every few darts will fishtail/helicopter/wobble really badly. This can be cured by inserting a barrel with straight "rifling" or just sanding away the spiral rifling.
- Excess glue is not a problem for the newest (gen 3) Kooshes. They have thicker foam
Search "Nerf koosh dart"
Koosh Amazon search (You have to scroll to find Koosh with this link)
FVJ : Another common dart type, with a name I think straight out of Reddit and tacticool kids. FVJ stands for Full Vinyl Jacket (not sure why, I guess it's a parody of FMJ (Full Metal Jacket) cartridges but it's not even covered in Vinyl).
These darts are the hard solid tip darts, they are commonly banned due to the ability to give welts, and for being "more painful" in many wars and HVZ's. The dart search is usually FVJ, and they usally have no hole and look have the elite design.
-In some instances, for flyhweel blasters they seem to cause problems due to the solid tip being uncompressible.
-Not recommended due to the hard hits and how many events and schools have banned them
Fvjs vary highly between area and seller. There are many variants and some are better than others. Do your own testing
Search for "Nerf dart" or "Nerf solid tip dart" (Usually you can tell it's an FVJ by a shiny head)
FVJ Amazon search (You have to scroll to find FVJs with this link)
ACC / Nipple : A very limited rare dart type, these darts are a common favorite some people. They get there name ACC from literally being printed on the dart, and the original Mandarin translation on TaoBao was "nipple" dart. With an aerodynamic silicon/rubber like head.
These darts are not usually banned.
-These darts only come in black and with the print. Also these can be finicky to find as there's mixed results.
- Good reliability. The squishy dart head might present issues in magfed springers, but I haven't encountered this yet and they currently feed very reliably from initial tests. Sometimes the glue has issues which others have reported. Hoppers well from a few tests, and seems to do better than other darts for feeding through hoppers, but MHA silicone darts still do better. (Again, air blaster is likely required.)
- Thinner dart fit, but still works well in stock blaster barrels.
- Great weight distribution and aerodynamics. Appears to be better than VTN's but more testing is needed to confirm.
Search for "Nerf black dart"
Voberry / Glowberry : A full knockoff elite, the Voberry gets its name from the original seller. Glowberry is the term for Glow in the dark Voberry darts. The Voberry dart is very similar to an elite, with the infamous hole in the head, but a stronger rubber making the tip, making it less "squishy". Great if your war only allows nerf brand elite darts, as they pass for them easily (in dark blue variant).
These darts are not usually banned.
- Super-reliable in magfed springers, and feed well in flywheels too. Not suitable for hoppers, which require too much power to be able to use these darts.
- Very close dart fit to stock, but seems to be very slightly thicker (or just ages better).
- Extremely poor weight distribution characteristics, with similar inaccuracy to Elites. Not recommended above 100 FPS.
Search for "Nerf dart hole" ( To look for the glow variant, add glow to the search)
(Pic from Greencloaks UK)
VTN / Lily Arms / FVN : More annoying fucking acronyms, but decent darts. The acronym stands for Vinyl Tip Nipple darts. Lily arms is the name of the seller on TaoBao who sells white glow in the dark versions of these. These are a variation of FVJs with a more "aerodynamic" head.
They may be banned as they are also Vinyl darts, because it's a solid tip.
- Very reliable in magfed springers. Unreliable in hoppers (tested at half length), about as poor as USC's at feeding.
- Medium-thick dart fit; should be same as FVJ but the ones I have seem slightly thicker.
- Great weight distribution and aerodynamics, but very easily thrown off into a circle trajectory by wind.
- not recommended due to the hard hits and how many events and schools have banned them
Search for "Nerf accurate darts"
VTN eBay search
VTN Amazon search
Men gun / knockoff Knex : Rubber head darts that kinda seem like knock off knex darts. Mengun darts are labeled Mengun, hard to find legitimate versions.
-Can hop if cut down, may need wye mods
-Looks like Knex Darts
-They well in stock blasters and the foam is quite dense
Search for "Mengun darts"
MenGun eBay Search (currently unavailable on ebay)
MenGun Amazon Search
Waffle darts / Xwaffle : Squishy darts similar to Men Gun darts, but a waffleish xish pattern. There are 2 common patterns, one where the tip are a bit tapered in while some are straight.
-Tapered in versions are more compatible and generally considered better
-A lot of versions have loose glueing, while the Raytheon variants seem to be better glued
-Heavy darts, considered more "accurate"
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 19 February 2016 - 11:03 AM
Is it really worth it though? You can touch up an original Longshot and it'll be the same,
They're all the same, lol
Posted by Snoop Doggy doge on 19 September 2014 - 08:11 PM