rotoryfan's Content

#82551 Glock-like Compact Sidearm

Posted by rotoryfan on 30 May 2006 - 08:14 PM in Modifications

hm. interesting. shadow's cf got at least 40' at a slight (see: 10 degree) angle. just drive right through the barrel to get the restrictors out. works like a charm.

#82549 Nitefinder M4

Posted by rotoryfan on 30 May 2006 - 08:09 PM in Modifications

bite me, we're arguing over a couple of words. not that big of a deal, no need to start something here

OMFG (sorry that the rules were posted above, but some things shouldn't be said in full) shadow, the rules were stated, if you don't respect them, don't make posts on this site. ompa is the person that enforces rules. he was made admin for that purpose. in your defense, at least you tried to end the argument:

no need to start something here

some lessons need to be learned. I'm sorry to be harsh, but you're capable of following the basic rules. also, DON'T START FIGHTS WITH A SITE ADMIN. anyone who does should be suspended, for at least a month. I reallize that I am a newb, both in this site (less than 1/2 year), and in nerf, but ompa is just trying to keep order, and you, I, and everyone else should respect that.

old topic. nice mod. I'd like to see a link to the original dollar store gun.

#82546 Super Cheap Homemade

Posted by rotoryfan on 30 May 2006 - 07:51 PM in Homemades

I saw his first demo, and it shot about 80'. the bottle was 20 oz. I think. either that or 24 oz. I was amazed by this. accuracy is potentially high, if you hold the pvc steady, and get used to how it fires. although air delivery is slow, it is a huge amount of air, so like nero said, you could shotgun it easily.

sniper25, that is brilliant. I just reallized what kind of bottle that is, and you're right. you'd have to get really big ones though. that or have pits steel to get the kind of air flow and air velocity needed to accelerate the dart for high ranges. also, because the dish soap bottles reinflate, they produce suction, thus pulling darts into the back of the barrel when you load them. that would decrease reloading time a lot.

although it would look awsome ompa, I think it would be a bit cumbersome to carry a lot of these. 10 of these would take up a huge amount of space.

#82545 New (i Think) Holster

Posted by rotoryfan on 30 May 2006 - 07:45 PM in Homemades

Since people are talking about alternatives to the clip, a strap with velcro would be the fastest for both removal (riiiiiip) and putting back. I like that clip, though...no chance that's coming undone. Good job.

I made a holster for someone a month ago and he wanted a velcro strap. It worked pretty well, I just hope the glue holds it down even after constant abuse.

ya. velcro is the most practical for this. and its probably the cheapest solution too. it can be found at any hobby store, hardware store, and probably elsewhere.

as far as making a holster rigid enough to keep form, I make holsters out of duct tape, and put index cards in between layers. I generally use about 3-6 cards total. I did this for my ttb, and it worked out amazing. it also has a slimmer profile than blackwrath's style, and by putting a little fbr inside, retaining straps aren't necessary. I love index cards (3x5, BTW) for their balance of strength and flexibillity. my design came from a month's worth of observation of a BW holster. I'm going to add a few more index cards to mine, to total 6 or 7, wrap it in hokey tape, and make it clip onto my belt, or clip onto my pants leg. (if it rests in a pant leg, I make sure to have a tightenable strap, and a deep cargo pocket for the holster to rest in.)

I hope this has been helpful. it works for me!

#82397 Broken Powerclip

Posted by rotoryfan on 27 May 2006 - 06:06 PM in Modifications

I tried that a bunch of times. I'm going to continue doing so, and hope that you're right. by the way, the divider is purple on mine. the seal is surprisingly good , now that I look at it. it's too bad that so much air is wasted. it probably gets 2/3 the range that an rf20 can get because of it.

edit: I tried that again, and it didn't help much at all. but I didn't reallize that the winglets weren't lining up...
its still broken, and the chamber that holds the valve spring isn't moving forward very much when I pull the trigger. the valve doesn't close and the chambers aren't being advanced. I never opened up the gun before it stopeed working, and I have no idea what happened or what to do.

again, what do I do?

#82388 Broken Powerclip

Posted by rotoryfan on 27 May 2006 - 03:49 PM in Modifications

I just got a powerclip, and I was so happy, and it was free!

it was working when I got home with it, I tried it out a bunch of times, and it worked like a charm.

later last night, the valve stopped closing and the clip couldn't advance. I don't think that any parts moved, and the gun is in mint condition. I cannot figure out why it isn't working.

it holds air, but when I pull the trigger, it releases all the air without the green tube on top moving forward.

what is wrong, and how do I fix it?

#82386 Stationary Turret Theory

Posted by rotoryfan on 27 May 2006 - 03:35 PM in Modifications

if anyone actually read starbuck's mod, you'd know that his rzb got ranges of 60 feet. it has a pretty quick rate of fire, and is probably very accurate, because it is on a tripod.

if you insist on using the RF20 internals, grab a bunch of bladders, hook 'em together, and make some kind of motorized rotating assembly for chains.

the only way I can think of to make the chains line up with the release of air is to do some major precision hacking of the case and turret. and timing would be a bitch too...

#82384 How To Make Good Use Of The Nerf Tech Target

Posted by rotoryfan on 27 May 2006 - 03:14 PM in General Nerf

If I were you, I'd be concerned about my post quality. Read and review our Code od Conduct.
Haha, you misspelled "of".

I pity your fate...

anyway, I hung my target on my wall, and I use it to measure the power of my blasters. if it dents the target, then I can assume ranges of "X" if it pierces the target (by some freak force of nature) then I can assume ranges of "Y" or more. if the dart bursts into flames before it hits the target, I know that I have created a small animal killing weapon of doom.

#82382 Fall '06 Blasters

Posted by rotoryfan on 27 May 2006 - 02:39 PM in General Nerf

yeah...
OMC, by how much do you think that the magstrike out performed a powerclip in range? I just recieved a powerclip and the range was pretty poor. then it stopped working (clip wasn't advancing for some reason) now its open in front of me... =(

#81591 Uruk-hai Crossbow Question

Posted by rotoryfan on 09 May 2006 - 06:32 PM in Modifications

I recall reading somewhere that since it isn't literally spring powered, you can use bungees to power it... somehow. sorry that I can't help any more than that, but I have trouble understanding unfamilliar things unless they're in front of me, in person. (I didn't understand pump guns until I opened my first AT2K, same goes for springers with my NF [now I'm a pro])

#81481 Pimp My Wildfire

Posted by rotoryfan on 07 May 2006 - 09:49 PM in Modifications

wow... didn't think my idea would be rejected that badly... =P oh well... I think that a fluid can be compressed to its maximum density. in theory. in practice, that would be almost impossible, because doing so would heat up the fluid as you try to compress it more, and unless a godly amount of force was applied, I don't think that water can be humanly compressed. anyway... I'm sure that an inner tube would work too, as would many of those ideas. as I said, perpetually have the trigger pulled, and use a manualy operated valve to supply air. this would replace the trigger, so that the increased stress/pressures don't break it otherwise. as for increased pressures, that wasn't my goal, from what I was explaining. I just wanted to demonstrate an idea so that constant air pressure could be delivered for a longer period of time, due to a larger amount of air being compressed to a simillar density.

using water bladders was just the first bladder that I could think of besides balloons, that I could think of.

#81479 Plugging The Pump On The Lbb

Posted by rotoryfan on 07 May 2006 - 09:36 PM in Modifications

hm. 1/2" ID brass is unbelievably tight. 1/2" OD sounds like it would be impossible to fit anything other than 3/8" FBR through it. maybe the brass you get is measured in approximations, like PVC... if not, then I'm really amazed.

#81458 Plugging The Pump On The Lbb

Posted by rotoryfan on 07 May 2006 - 08:07 PM in Modifications

its fact that the kind of brass we use has 1/64" walls. by reading what he said, you can figure out where my numbers came from. [to carrtoon: how do you fit darts into brass that tight??? it's hard enough to get stefans into CPVC, and 1/2" brass is almost impossible. do you stretch your foam?]

#81426 Plugging The Pump On The Lbb

Posted by rotoryfan on 07 May 2006 - 03:48 PM in Modifications

ha! you, scare me?... anyway, oren/Nero, (ha I get it, its backwards!) if you didn't realize, he's using 1/2" OD brass. since the walls of brass piping are 1/64" thick, that means that his barrel is tighter than 17/32! actuall, to be precise, his is 33/64, whereas 17/32 = 34/64. being as tight as it is, combined with the low friction of brass (according to Cx, at least), his is probably getting a better seal, so that no air escapes, but the dart can still slide through easily. (meaning greater velocity, which means more momentum, = greater range and power)

and just so you know, GOOP generally makes a much better seal than hot glue, and on schwinns, the seal was obviously lacking.

oh. wait, nero, are you sure you plugged it properly? just put an empty, heated glue gun to the hot glue that you used to plug it with, and melt it down again, and make sure that you covered that center hole perfectly. :lol:

and carrtoon, that's just amazing. does this one get better range than the last one?

#81398 Pimp My Wildfire

Posted by rotoryfan on 06 May 2006 - 10:00 PM in Modifications

"I don't know of anyone who has used a hydration bladder for nerf."

yeah, that's why I suggested it. platypus pack, eh? sounds like a good investment. when I said rubber bands, I meant massive ones, and wrapping them around it a fair amount of times. and I would probably encase the bladder in a hard shell, which would keep it from expanding past a certain point, thus reducing the chances that the pack would explode. and the case would be slightly smaller than the maximum size of the bladder.

when you think about it, you are using the RF20/WF bladder in the same way, substituting air, with water. the only difference is that water is almost impossible to compress, due to its high density, and fluid properties. this just means that you should be extra carful. if possible, a large balloon could be put INTO the platypus pack, and would act as the bladder. using the same concept of having a slightly smaller casing (the encasing now being the platypus pack itself) than the bladder itself, so that the bladder doesn't burst.

the only other way that I could think of, (which I think is probably the best) is to get 2 balloons that expand length-wise, and put them into about 8" of 1" PVC. link the two by vinyl tubing, into larger tubing , until the two meet up together in a T-bend PVC coupler. add another T-bend, so that the input and output could be created. putting a one way valve on each side, one for the input, and one for the output. the input would be a regular check-valve, which could be found either at a hardware store, or at the end of any standard pump shaft. (the coupling at the end of the pump shaft in an at2k) and the output valve could be any valve that can be manually opened and closed completely. in order to fire, the trigger could be perpetually pulled, by gluing it back, or some other method. this way, when you open the output valve, the turret starts rotating, and the gun starts firing, until the valve is closed, or there is no more air left. the problem would be opening and closing the output valve fast enough. the solution would be closing it early, while there is still a dart or two left in it. swap the turret, and open the valve again. continuous fire!

#81396 Plugging The Lbb Pump

Posted by rotoryfan on 06 May 2006 - 09:29 PM in Modifications

okay. I opened up an LBB, to pump the plug. I notice that the pump doesn't come out. then, I notice that there are two screws on the large plastic air tank in front of the pump. I unscrew them, in hope that I could some how gain access to the pump. nothing. its very well glued shut. do I have to hack the back of the pump tube? I tried the search feature, but it doesn't seem to like me... that or my choices of words weren't very good. also, I know that ineitably the trigger is going to break. How is that fixed? and finally, -oh, wait, I forgot what I was going to say. oh well.

if anyone can answer any of my questions, please do, or give me a link to somewhere on the externet that I might find one. oh wait, I meant internet. a link to somewhere on the internet.

This mod I did about 3 months ago:

LBB mod

I just bought another LBB today, so look for a better mod very soon!

That's actually really funny, because I think I saw that yesterday! (subconciously I guess) I actually got the LBB today, and I am actually modding it for a friend. hm. I hoped that using a dremel wouldn't be necessary... oh well. I can always do it tomorrow. carrtoon, PM me when you finish modding your new LBB, I want to be the first to know! (I may get one for myself, being 12 dollars each)

#81382 Another Noob Question For All The Older Guys

Posted by rotoryfan on 06 May 2006 - 06:40 PM in Modifications

no. I think that I could fairly easily create a mechanism that would push the spring back. Its too hard to explain though, in words. I would really have to show my idea in person, since it's not complete, and I have a long list of mods to do first, so I can't start on this now anyway. (I'd much rather just get an RF20 and turret mod it. and replace the bladder with an external, backpack bladder. there was an old super-soaker that had a backpack that almost definitely had a bladder in it. that is the perfect example of a separate bladder.

#81381 Plugging The Lbb Pump

Posted by rotoryfan on 06 May 2006 - 06:32 PM in Modifications

okay. I opened up an LBB, to pump the plug. I notice that the pump doesn't come out. then, I notice that there are two screws on the large plastic air tank in front of the pump. I unscrew them, in hope that I could some how gain access to the pump. nothing. its very well glued shut. do I have to hack the back of the pump tube? I tried the search feature, but it doesn't seem to like me... that or my choices of words weren't very good. also, I know that ineitably the trigger is going to break. How is that fixed? and finally, -oh, wait, I forgot what I was going to say. oh well.

if anyone can answer any of my questions, please do, or give me a link to somewhere on the externet that I might find one. oh wait, I meant internet. a link to somewhere on the internet.

#81379 Pimp My Wildfire

Posted by rotoryfan on 06 May 2006 - 06:23 PM in Modifications

what?!! PVC?!!! I'm not going to ask how firm piece of plastic can keep pressure for a continueous fire. I think that the back pack idea is brilliant. maybe you can get a cammel back, and if the bladder in that expands, you can use it. if not, you could put a lot of rubber bands around the bladder in the cammel back. from there, you can connect the bladder from the camel back to the wildfire using vinyl tubing, goop, and some luck. if you did that, you could probably squeeze 40-50 shots out of it. I guess you'd need some extra turrets.

in case you didn't know, a camel back is a small backpack with a small pouch that houses a 1' x 8" bladder. the idea is so that you can store water in the backpack, and their is a tube that leads out from the bladder that acts as a REALLY REALLY big bendy straw, so that you can drink without fumbling through your bag for a bottle.

#81327 Nerf In The Near Future

Posted by rotoryfan on 05 May 2006 - 11:14 PM in General Nerf

Yup. Its probably going to be hard to figure out what to do with the LS when we all get one. There's just so much to do to it. I predict the long shot to be more than the Xbow ever could be. Really, stop asking for another Xbow, as Ompa said. in the Longshot, which Hasbro has been working on for quite some time, I think they saw the love of the crossbow, and the failure of the sawtooth, and they are trying to reincarnate the two together, as one. They probably reallized that they can increase range and velocity without increasing the momentum of the dart (keeping it safe) by making a dart that has a smaller drag coefficient than any before it, producing greater ranges and velocities, without making the dart heavier or anything else that would decrease the safety of the product.

[RANT] HASBRO probably realized, I think, that NERFers are actually a pretty large % of their profit in america. Maybe as much as 2 or 3%, due to us constantly buying more and more nerf guns. (2 or 3 % is huge, by the way. Considering that there's probably less than 10'000 serious nerfers in the US, while the overall target audience probably includes almost 10 million children in the US alone.) If we influence NERF that much, then the more do-able mods that we create are seen by hasbro, and are taken lightly into consideration. Some of the easier (see: cheaper) concepts that they pick up are put into production, and, like the PC to MS, are finally of great value. (I think that the Xbow was just luck on NERF's part. I don't think they ever imagined that a slightly altered nerf gun could achieve values of 50+ dollars)

They saw us doing clip mods, deciding that they did something awfully wrong with the sawtooth, for it to be as badly rejected as it has been, when all of the NERFers do clip mods. maybe in effort to solve the sawtooth's failures, They reincarnated its overall design, even with the same bolt-action, by using smarter ammo, [probably] better seals, and a more apealing nerf gun overall, for all ages.

we have become a very small part of the target audience, and hasbro most likely does have people that check on our forums, and they do take some of the easier ideas into consideration. why else would the powerclip, and an uber version of the sawtooth be reincarnated? they saw what we were doing, and took the basic steps to improve upon old designs, that had room for improvement. [/RANT]

#81326 Scout And Sspb Integration

Posted by rotoryfan on 05 May 2006 - 10:46 PM in Modifications

why not just twist around the pump on the SSPB, so that the pump faces you and the barrel faces forward, then just link it somehow to the cocking mechanism. it would serve you much better to do so, as many have already said.

#81309 Another Noob Question For All The Older Guys

Posted by rotoryfan on 05 May 2006 - 09:09 PM in Modifications

why not recreate a razorbeast type fire, with a crank. instead of having the ridiulous chains, make it a clip. A very large clip. you could have the mechanism pull back the spring as it opens the breach, and at the same time that the spring is released, the breach closes. Repeat. that would work fine, and with trial and error, it could be done without any problems. just make a really really big clip. maybe a 20-30 dart clip. just use the deo clips, and since they stack, just glue a bunch of them together, all of them having both bottom and top cut out but the bottom one. this is assuming that it is spring fed, which would be quite a feat if it doesn't kill the darts. eh? you could use a kennex gear, because they happen to be the perfect size, and are probably strong enough to withstand a powerful spring. especially if you double up on the gears. I might look into this, when I gain rescources and an empty shell... maybe the massive LBB case would be big enough, with some modification...

this could be the start of some beautiful new homemades...

#81304 Crossfinder

Posted by rotoryfan on 05 May 2006 - 08:54 PM in Modifications

to reinforce the insides, fill the parts of the shell that are prone to breaking with "great stuff" which is a canned sealing foam, that cures about 80% in an hr, if you did not already know. due to the perfect density of cured "great stuff" it helps to mute the gun, it absorbs most of the vibrations that endanger the life of the crossfinder, and if you clean the inside of the case fairly well, it will bond to the plastic. did I mention that it expands? (if you do not give it room to expand, it cures slower, and is much denser because it is forced to do so. [a good thing]

Haha!!! Can you imagine the Crossfinder with foam pouring out of the holes! That would be interesting! I've tried this in the past and have had mixed results. First it helps if you don't overdo it, and second it really works well if you never want to open your guns again. On one of my lugered NFs, it worked well, but then I had to make the seal better on the plunger head and it was a pain to open and clean out. FBR also works. I cut a section of it in half and put it in one of my NF shells around the cylinder and it helped a bit. Thanks for the tip and when I'm completely done with it, I'll probably do this.

hm... you're right about not overdoing it, I generally only fill the crucial parts, that undergo a lot of stress. the area around the conection between plunger tube and barrel, a tiny bit in the back, to support some of the weak plastic pieces, etc, are all areas that I would "stuff." the handle I fill with FBR, or I put crayolas into it, to make ammo holders, and fill the remaining spaces with STUFF. generally, almost as soon as it cures, I take a box cutter and extend it about 1" out, and cut the foam in half, so that I can *CLEANLY* open the gun again, which is great. this allows you to open the gun, without sacrificing the major advantages to using "GREAT STUFF" ^_^

a crossfinder with foam pouring out the holes... wow... that'd be a good laugh... "hm, my crossfinder seems to have developed rabes..."

#81290 The Beretta 86 Cheetah Attachment Prototype

Posted by rotoryfan on 05 May 2006 - 06:42 PM in Modifications

hmmm... you could make it auto-reloading when it pops open, by adding a piece of PVC with a spring in the back that would hold 3 or so darts, and atatching it to form a junction between it and the cool baretta breach you made. if you could figure out a way for it to close when you close the barreta breach (that's what seems to be an appropriate name for this awsome mod) then it would get even better ROF's! maybe you could create ridges to act as a guide for a chopped PVC cap, so that when you close the baretta breach, it pulls the cap down, thus keeping the darts from launching out of the "PVC clip" hm... this could be insane...

*EDIT* I noticed that it snaps down, as you said, when you fire it. does it still fire straight? I didn't see anything leave the barrel at all...

#81240 Crossfinder

Posted by rotoryfan on 04 May 2006 - 09:17 PM in Modifications

to reinforce the insides, fill the parts of the shell that are prone to breaking with "great stuff" which is a canned sealing foam, that cures about 80% in an hr, if you did not already know. due to the perfect density of cured "great stuff" it helps to mute the gun, it absorbs most of the vibrations that endanger the life of the crossfinder, and if you clean the inside of the case fairly well, it will bond to the plastic. did I mention that it expands? (if you do not give it room to expand, it cures slower, and is much denser because it is forced to do so. [a good thing]

#81236 Bbb Or X-bow

Posted by rotoryfan on 04 May 2006 - 09:08 PM in General Nerf

both are great blasters. of course, the x-bow has much better ranges and has already been thouroghly explored in its possibilities of mods. it is a little too expensive for my tastes when it passes $40, but is otherwise completely worth the buy.

overall, my vote would go to the BBB, because of its capabilities in the end, as an assault rifle. because of its cocking method, it can be clip modded so that it is cock and fire, cock and fire, until the clip empties. this provides a much higher rate of fire than an Xbow, even with the best of clip mods. also, the BBB does not need to reinforced as much, and can handle a much bigger spring. Again, due to the cocking format, it wouldnt be too hard to cock, even with a larger spring. in the end, the BBB can get near-Xbow ranges, while maintaining a high rate of fire, and is probably better overall, because of its atractive price, amazing possibilities, and simplicity to mod. (not much dremeling needed, compared to Xbow).

many people would probably disagree with me, but if your low on cash, or are just starting up in NERFing, I suggest getting the BBB. some people mentioned getting a locknload as a sidearm. I would suggest getting a crossfire, and when you feel competent enough with your mod skills, fuse it with a NF plunger to make a crossfinder, which is more compact, and *seemingly* more powerful. both good qualities for a sidearm.

#81225 Air Xxl Bazooka

Posted by rotoryfan on 04 May 2006 - 07:08 PM in General Nerf

(I haven't figured out why he does this yet other than to be weird, but he has shot himself with EVERY single gun I own in BOTH heads!!!)

If you were to modify one of these to shoot Stefans or Stock Micros, I wouldn't be surprised at all if you got ranges over 100 feet!!!

oh. not on the site eh? hm. both heads... wow... he must be some kind of hydra.

well... if it shoots a rocket 60 feet, modded properly, I bet it could get a lot farther then that, using micros (or megas, either one would go considerably farther) its a pump gun, right?

#81093 Another Noob Question For All The Older Guys

Posted by rotoryfan on 01 May 2006 - 11:25 PM in Modifications

you would require some kind of motor to create an auto-advancing turret for a DTB. and integrate a bladder into it for full auto. it could be done, but it would be hard and very annoying. I'm thinking that a combination of a lego motor and some gears could have enough power to push and pull the mechanism that advances the turret. you could integrate a battery setup into the handel, by chopping a NF handel, and welding wires to the circuit that you get in the NF, and when closing the circuit, the batteries (actually, one 9V battery) power the lego motor, which turns a gear, which pushes and pulls the rotating mechanism, giving a smooth advance mechanism. and since the mechanism is only activated when the trigger is pulled (closing the circuit) the gun is technically a full auto gun, since only one trigger pull is required to shoot multiple darts. you could integrate an AT3K pump assembly into the cocking piece, and you could pump by cocking the gun! I doubt that the DTB has enough interior space, but if you're creative enough, its possible. I used to play with the lego motors all the time, (I still do, once in a while) and it would be perfect, if you can fit it in. you could do this if you had an empty WF or RF20 shell I suppose.

this is just an idea for the auto rotating mechanism. I challenge anyone, and everyone to try it! hell, maybe a wind-up motor would work, as long as it has enough power, and has a long duration

#81091 Crossfinder

Posted by rotoryfan on 01 May 2006 - 10:57 PM in Modifications

hm... without losing range, I doubt that you could keep the stock cocking method. the NF cocking method is better anyway.

I think that a TTG plunger assembly might work even better, because it is narrower and would be easier to fit into the case. I think that the only hard part could be getting the trigger mechanism to work, as seen in the nitemav. it could be done though.
That integration is really smooth and almost flawless. thats pretty ill. I don't know if your into painting you guns, but it would look a lot better if you painted it with one or two tones, that plain old CPVC is just asking for color... any color...

really great job. there's not much else for me to say. thats just plain awsome.

*edit* thats a little scary on the performance side... how did you modify the NF plunger assembly?

#81089 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by rotoryfan on 01 May 2006 - 10:45 PM in Darts and Barrels

A SCREWDRIVER!??! thats interesting... maybe using a soldering tool would be better... I use box cutters to cut my foam. its much better, because the blade is always sharp, do to the fact that the blades break away. for weights, since I'm too lazy to look around for BB's or fishing weights, I use sections of light pull-chains. the ones consisting of a string of metal beads coming down from the fixture. they come in various sizes, but as long as the section isn't too long, they make a great substitute. I haven't tried using the larger diameter pull-chains, but I will soon, being as cheap as they are. using these weights, I can make darts of about 1.2" for 3 or 4 cents each. (the good FBR here is NOT cheap)

#81086 Air Xxl Bazooka

Posted by rotoryfan on 01 May 2006 - 10:34 PM in General Nerf

thats sweet. I live in westcchester (NY) and if I saw one of these... oh man...
how's its power? if its made by toy quest, then why not google it and check out the toy quest website. if the gun is still in production, then I'm sure they would have it on the site, and a store locator list.

#81084 Legendary Weapon 01: Rose's Judgement

Posted by rotoryfan on 01 May 2006 - 10:29 PM in Modifications

thats pretty sick. what paints did you use? krylon? or did you primer it first? thats amazing, I hope you used a lot of clearcoat! and you hand cut the rinestones yourself!? thats insane!

----oh...shit... this is a really old topic... -----

~rotary

#81006 New York Nerf War

Posted by rotoryfan on 30 April 2006 - 10:43 AM in Nerf Wars

hm. Rochester is a bit far... an 8hr drive is a few minutes to long a drive for a nerf war... =P
my bro went to RIT, and it's not a happy trip. our clan is actually pretty HUGE, with about 25 active participants right now. if anyone checked out flint park, by google, or driving through it, I'm thinking that it will be the location of the war. [hey Al, what do you think?] since some of the newer members have titans, I guess they might be allowed. I'm sure that there would be some kind of restriction or something, to keep them from becoming, well, we all know why titans get banned. maybe we can stick a psi guage on one, to get a realistic idea of the pressures we're using, and thus, figure out how many pumps could be considered acceptable. I'll discuss the topic of titans with z80, and I'll get back to you guys on this.

#81005 Blastfire Oddities

Posted by rotoryfan on 30 April 2006 - 10:31 AM in Modifications

O okay I slightly misread. So wait WD40 made your BF workagain?! That is awesome! I still believe it has something to do with the seal. Even though air is releasing properly with no darts in, not enough pressure is pushing against the dart.

...And that could mean that your air seal between the dart(s) and barrel(s) isn't tight enough. I've never had BF, but I know that it should be amazing. It [i]does[/s] have multiple airtanks (versus a bladder), right? if so, I would think that it is capable of very high ranges if you reinforce the air tanks and pump assembly, so that you can over pump it...

again though, I've never seen a BF, and I could be completely wrong here. I'm just trying to help.

#81004 Can Any One Tell Me What Gun This Is?

Posted by rotoryfan on 30 April 2006 - 10:14 AM in General Nerf

Excuse my teachings, I remember all that stuff I was taught in 7th grade. I have a good memory.

Anyway, the TTG. Do they still make them? Because I keep hearing about the NF and other guns currently available from Hasbro being discontinued.

Actually, they do; TRU sells TTG's, and so does JCpenney. except JCpenney gives you two TTG's and costs 3 dollars less than TRU. JCpenney link: http://www3.jcpenney...ize=28&Dep=TOYS
TRU doesn't even have TTG's in stock (online) right now anyway. (whereas JCpenney does)

~Mike

#81003 Old Nerf Guns

Posted by rotoryfan on 30 April 2006 - 10:04 AM in General Nerf

if khols is hard to believe, JCPENNEY has twin pack TTGs. for 14 dollars online. and I thought that JCpenney was a clothing store...

http://www3.jcpenney...ize=28&Dep=TOYS

Good luck finding the "old nerf guns" that your looking for. and someone mentioned trading by way of NH. if you have anything worth trading, then this would be your best bet.

(if 100 stefans can sell for 20 dollars, which they do, then think about the prices of older NERF guns. I've seen an SM5K going for 60 with 6 days left.)

#80758 Cutting Brass For Barrels

Posted by rotoryfan on 24 April 2006 - 09:17 PM in Modifications

[hmmm... it seems that NH got a new look...] for my first time cutting brass, I wasn't sure what to do, and I had this shiny new bits set for my dremel... and Iwasted a cutoff wheel, but the dremel got the job done. friendly word of advice: wear gloves and eye protection, and be very steady and careful: you don't want cutting wheel shrapnel in you.

I wouldn't use pipe cutters, because it takes more time and energy to fix the lip, than to get out a power sander and sand down the edges. (tip: When I'm finished, I take a hammer to flatten the remaining edges, coming straight down on the top, to flatten it, without bending or denting the pipe.)

#80158 New York Nerf War

Posted by rotoryfan on 16 April 2006 - 10:12 PM in Nerf Wars

*OLD TOPIC* oh well. our arsenal is improving, as is our clan. this war could be really really big. our clan consists of 26+ members. of course, most are newbs and some are too ignorant to mod their own NG's. but on the other hand, we also have a bunch of great modders, including me, z80, Nero121, and some others who aren't on this forum.

we have a clan website, if anyone wants to see our arsenals and playing field maps, at nightshiftnerf.tk by the way, I'm the somewhat shrimpy kid holding a DTB and NF.

#80156 Bbb Clip Thing

Posted by rotoryfan on 16 April 2006 - 09:57 PM in Modifications

well...he did say "my BBB" ...

but this is a silly thing to argue about anyway.
neat inovation, but when you feel you have enough experience modding, I suggest you just do a clip-mod. the simplicity of your idea is what makes it good. no pictures should be needed. anyone that asked for pictures should simply read more carefully.

#80151 Angels Bbb

Posted by rotoryfan on 16 April 2006 - 09:10 PM in Modifications

I'd use 8 or 9 inches of brass. what works best is 17/32, but that is much harder to use in a clip mod, because the darts barly fit when twisted in. but then again, I haven't used 9/16 yet.

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