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Plugging The Pump On The Lbb


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#1 Carrtoon

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 09:38 AM

To lots of members, plugging the pump on the LBB is too hard to try. Atleast, that's what they think. This is one of the easiest mods ever and it will get you titan ranges for $10.

First, open the gun. The internals should look like this:

Posted Image

Now, take out the main assembly inside the shell. Go to the rear of it by the handle. This piece is what we will be looking at:

Posted Image

Now, easy as it may be, take your dremel tool and cut about 2mm from the edge of the gray piece. Wording here is a bit hard to do, so take a look at the picture:

Posted Image

Cut all the way throught the piece so it comes off of the main white cylinder. Keep in mind it can be cut off with something other than a dremel, just make sure you don't cut into the pump. When the gray piece comes off, take out the pump. Look at the top of the pump. This is what it looks like:

Posted Image

Hot glue the holes in the center, but leave the ones on the outside so air can get past. If you plug the whole top, you won't be able to pressurize any air:

Posted Image

Now, turn around the main assembly and look at the front orange barrel. You will see guard inside it:

Posted Image

Take a pliers and pull it out. It may take a few grabs because of the glue, but this is what it should look like after it's pulled out:

Posted Image

This part is your decision. Putting the barrel on. Brass or cpvc works very nicely. It all depends on your stefan fit. If you use cpvc, you will need to dremel out the inside of a coupler in order to make it fit over the orange stock barrel. I used my 1/2'' OD brass. It fit nicely inside the stock barrel with some e-tape wrapped around it.

Now, place the innards back inside the shell. No gluing is needed. Make sure you place everything back where it should go:

Posted Image

And the finished product:

Posted Image

Vid and 30 pumps later:

Dart disintegration

Can I use this in Farmageddon?!!

Edited by Carrtoon, 07 May 2006 - 09:55 AM.

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#2 Nero121

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 10:36 AM

I did the exact same thing to my LBB. Mine does NOT shoot through cardboard. Do you have some kind of extra step involving plutonium or did I miss something?

Edited by Nero121, 07 May 2006 - 10:36 AM.

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#3 ompa

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 11:39 AM

Nero, what kind of setup are you using? If your dart/barrel fit is poor, or you have foam glued to the tips of your stefans, they won't go through. Most air guns can go through cardboard. Having also had an LBB, I can tell you the thing is fully capable of shooting through cardboard.

~ompa
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#4 Carrtoon

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 01:43 PM

I did the exact same thing to my LBB. Mine does NOT shoot through cardboard. Do you have some kind of extra step involving plutonium or did I miss something?


How many times are you pumping it? After 30 pumps, it feels like the handle is going to snap off, but it'll go through those 2 layers of cardboard. I doubt 10 times would do it...
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#5 Nero121

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 02:42 PM

Well, I tried 30 like you said. Then I went back and reglued the seal as closely to yours as I could manage. Now the darts dent cardboard ( :o ) but nothing nearly as powerful as yours. I am using CPVC as a barrel, and maybe your stephans are just better. If you know anything else, I'd really like to scare my friends ;) :lol:

Edited by Nero121, 07 May 2006 - 02:43 PM.

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#6 rotoryfan

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 03:48 PM

ha! you, scare me?... anyway, oren/Nero, (ha I get it, its backwards!) if you didn't realize, he's using 1/2" OD brass. since the walls of brass piping are 1/64" thick, that means that his barrel is tighter than 17/32! actuall, to be precise, his is 33/64, whereas 17/32 = 34/64. being as tight as it is, combined with the low friction of brass (according to Cx, at least), his is probably getting a better seal, so that no air escapes, but the dart can still slide through easily. (meaning greater velocity, which means more momentum, = greater range and power)

and just so you know, GOOP generally makes a much better seal than hot glue, and on schwinns, the seal was obviously lacking.

oh. wait, nero, are you sure you plugged it properly? just put an empty, heated glue gun to the hot glue that you used to plug it with, and melt it down again, and make sure that you covered that center hole perfectly. :lol:

and carrtoon, that's just amazing. does this one get better range than the last one? ;)
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#7 Carrtoon

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 04:17 PM

ha! you, scare me?... anyway, oren/Nero, (ha I get it, its backwards!) if you didn't realize, he's using 1/2" OD brass. since the walls of brass piping are 1/64" thick, that means that his barrel is tighter than 17/32! actuall, to be precise, his is 33/64, whereas 17/32 = 34/64. being as tight as it is, combined with the low friction of brass (according to Cx, at least), his is probably getting a better seal, so that no air escapes, but the dart can still slide through easily. (meaning greater velocity, which means more momentum, = greater range and power)

and just so you know, GOOP generally makes a much better seal than hot glue, and on schwinns, the seal was obviously lacking.

oh. wait, nero, are you sure you plugged it properly? just put an empty, heated glue gun to the hot glue that you used to plug it with, and melt it down again, and make sure that you covered that center hole perfectly. :lol:

and carrtoon, that's just amazing. does this one get better range than the last one? ;)


The brass I use is approximately .472. This fits my darts (1/2'' FBR stefans with 3 BBs) perfectly, like you said. The barrel is 1' long and I'm not sure about the range difference. This one maximizes the air output because the dart is pushed in right next to the valve.

If you are still having troubles with plugging the pump, take a look at the blue + shaped piece (connected to the handle and the pump head.) If you look closely, you will find that there are 4 small holes at the junction between the blue cross "rod" and the pump head. These are coming from the top holes that you plugged. I plugged all 4 of those holes also. If there is still a leak, this should take care of it.

Also, is it extremely hard to pump at 30 pumps? It should feel like the handle will snap off with one more pump. You may have a leak in your valve still. Try the gluing and get back to me...
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#8 Nero121

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 06:55 PM

I noticed the brass. But that shouldn't have nearly the effect your claiming it has ( to ROTORY). Also, I think you misunderstood. I went already went back and reglued the holes. Been there. I don't quite understand what you mean about the other 4 holes Cartoon. Rotory, where were you pulling those numbers from? You just making them up? Anyway, I KNOW I plugged it directly according to the guide. I think your leak idea could be accurate. Not sure though, cause it still fires well after a minute or so. If you could pst pictures on the 4 holes, that would be much aprrecitated Cartoon.
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#9 Carrtoon

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 07:59 PM

I noticed the brass. But that shouldn't have nearly the effect your claiming it has ( to ROTORY). Also, I think you misunderstood. I went already went back and reglued the holes. Been there. I don't quite understand what you mean about the other 4 holes Cartoon. Rotory, where were you pulling those numbers from? You just making them up? Anyway, I KNOW I plugged it directly according to the guide. I think your leak idea could be accurate. Not sure though, cause it still fires well after a minute or so. If you could pst pictures on the 4 holes, that would be much aprrecitated Cartoon.


By leaking, I don't mean the gun is leaking. The pump that pushes air in might be. This wouldn't allow you to pump it to its full capacity. Here is a pic of the holes I was talking about:

Posted Image

Those are two of the holes and the other two are on the other side. Plug those and you should have a perfect valve block.

Just in case there is some question as to the power of this gun, I made another video that includes loading, pumping, and firing:

Firing #2
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#10 rotoryfan

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 08:07 PM

its fact that the kind of brass we use has 1/64" walls. by reading what he said, you can figure out where my numbers came from. [to carrtoon: how do you fit darts into brass that tight??? it's hard enough to get stefans into CPVC, and 1/2" brass is almost impossible. do you stretch your foam?]
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#11 Black Wrath

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 08:30 PM

That thing is a beast.

I used to get comparable power from my SM5k; still would, if I hadn't sold it. Atleast it's getting used now.
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#12 Carrtoon

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 08:39 PM

its fact that the kind of brass we use has 1/64" walls. by reading what he said, you can figure out where my numbers came from. [to carrtoon: how do you fit darts into brass that tight??? it's hard enough to get stefans into CPVC, and 1/2" brass is almost impossible. do you stretch your foam?]


They don't fit in very tight. Less than stock darts. Here is my FBR, only it was in a blue package instead of red:

FBR

If you get that, 1/2'' OD brass at mcmaster works just perfectly for shooting it. I got it for about $11 for 4, 1' lengths. I don't stretch the foam and it fits nicely.
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#13 nerfer34

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 08:46 PM

Very nice LBB. I noticed you said you may use that in a war.... YOu should breach that thing or something because ramroding is torture. Maybe even clip it or something that makes the reload time SLIGHTLY better. Just a suggestion. Keep up the good mods.
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#14 rotoryfan

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 09:36 PM

hm. 1/2" ID brass is unbelievably tight. 1/2" OD sounds like it would be impossible to fit anything other than 3/8" FBR through it. maybe the brass you get is measured in approximations, like PVC... if not, then I'm really amazed.

Edited by rotoryfan, 07 May 2006 - 09:36 PM.

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