I live near two Home Depots. For the things they carry, they usually have the cheapest prices, so I usually check there first. However, niether of the ones I live near carry thin-wall pipe (believe me, I spend hours in those places). My local Ace Hardware doesn't carry thin-wall, and they generally have more expensive prices (being a locally-owned store), though I love them because they carry the majority of the items I use.
As for the places that DO carry the pipe, Lowes is a haul for me, but they carry more types of PVC than anywhere else I've been to, thin-wall included. I get most of my thin-wall from a locally-owned store called Wentworth Lumber Yard. Just see what kind of places in your area.
BloodMoon's Content
There have been 88 items by BloodMoon (Search limited from 17-January 97)
#67496 1" 200 Psi Pvc
Posted by
on 11 November 2005 - 10:43 PM
in
Homemades
#63146 7/16 Backer Rod?
Posted by
on 05 September 2005 - 08:47 PM
in
Modifications
I don't think I've seen sizes of foam backer rod other than 3/8", 1/2", and 5/8". For what foam backer rod is meant to do, precise sizes aren't needed. If you would like to make your foam a little bit thinner (say, for airguns), you could stretch your foam like tucker suggested. Take a look at this thread.
#66089 Air Tank Mod
Posted by
on 18 October 2005 - 09:31 PM
in
Modifications
The Blast Bazooka is my current primary. Murakumo, I also use 1.5" stefans with 1/4" Steel Shot wieghts. I use a 12" 9/16 OD Brass barrel. The coupler on the gun is a 1/2" sch. 40 PVC coupler with a piece of 19/32" OD Brass in the middle, so that the 9/16" barrel slides right in. To load the gun, I just put the stefan in the rear of the barrel and then screw in the barrel.
When I range tested, I got between 100' and 123' consistantly, with no mod to the tank itself (only the trigger). I thought that was a little high. In reality, I found out that my while the coupler is centered side-to-side, it angles the barrel upward. With a level shot, the range will be less.
Unlike you, I can't say that I've found this gun to be very accurate. With my 12" barrel, which works better than the 8" one I had before, I only shoot at people 60' away, closer if they're moving fast.
Here's some pics of my LBB:
When I range tested, I got between 100' and 123' consistantly, with no mod to the tank itself (only the trigger). I thought that was a little high. In reality, I found out that my while the coupler is centered side-to-side, it angles the barrel upward. With a level shot, the range will be less.
Unlike you, I can't say that I've found this gun to be very accurate. With my 12" barrel, which works better than the 8" one I had before, I only shoot at people 60' away, closer if they're moving fast.
Here's some pics of my LBB:
#66357 Airtech 3k Tubing Blown!
Posted by
on 22 October 2005 - 10:12 PM
in
Modifications
I have used vinyl and hot glue and it worked fine, considering that the ID of the tubing was the same as the original tubing (so that it fit on fine and made an airtight seal without hotglue). I used hot glue to keep it in place. I have some pics in case they're helpful (yes, I know that the gun is ugly as sin, yes, I know that couplermodding a 3k is dumb).
#66426 Airtech 3k Tubing Blown!
Posted by
on 23 October 2005 - 03:54 PM
in
Modifications
5/16" OD and 3/16" ID. Got it at Ace Hardware for something like $.19 a foot.
#68808 At2k Quad Mod
Posted by
on 04 December 2005 - 11:57 PM
in
Modifications
Well, I have to say that it looks like the barrels could bend or fall off at any moment, but maybe your hot glue is better than mine. I think that I would use epoxy instead, and possibly put a pole of something in the middle just to make sure that they are aligned.
Just one question that I've never really asked. What do you do to get the darts into the back of the barrels? Do you ramrod, or is the fit loose enough that you can just blow them down?
Just one question that I've never really asked. What do you do to get the darts into the back of the barrels? Do you ramrod, or is the fit loose enough that you can just blow them down?
#65979 At2k Stock
Posted by
on 16 October 2005 - 10:49 PM
in
Modifications
I can't say that in my experience stocks make a gun much more accurate. But they feel really damn good. So in my opinion, what you should do is just make a stock that feels good to you, not to some other random person.
#64930 At2k Tank Expansion
Posted by
on 02 October 2005 - 10:32 PM
in
Modifications
Take a look at this topic.
I have never enlarged a tank before myself...I don't see a ton of benifit, but I'm just waiting to be proven wrong on that.
I have never enlarged a tank before myself...I don't see a ton of benifit, but I'm just waiting to be proven wrong on that.
#65135 At3000 W/ At2000 On It
Posted by
on 05 October 2005 - 08:36 PM
in
Homemades
I think it's a dumb idea, but hey, if you can post a picture of it, maybe I'll change my mind.
#63803 At3k
Posted by
on 17 September 2005 - 11:43 PM
in
Modifications
Because I have a spare At3k turret lying around, I used a Dremel to sand down one barrel and put in a piece of 1/2" CPVC. While I was able to do it, I wouldn't recommend it because (1) If you're doing a barrel support mod like Cxwq's, your barrel support will have to be sanded down until it is very, very thin, and (2) Without a Dremel, you will have to suffer a lot of pain to get all six barrels in there. Trying to get anything thicker than 1/2" CPVC will be next to impossible, in my opinion.
Yes, the Dremel moto tools I see at Home Depot are usually selling for 60+ dollars.
Here's a picture of a file.
I wouldn't worry too much about getting the "barrel stuff and sandpaper" inside the gun, because the gun can get cleaned out...just make sure you avoid getting any in the air tank.
Yes, the Dremel moto tools I see at Home Depot are usually selling for 60+ dollars.
Here's a picture of a file.
I wouldn't worry too much about getting the "barrel stuff and sandpaper" inside the gun, because the gun can get cleaned out...just make sure you avoid getting any in the air tank.
#63817 At3k
Posted by
on 18 September 2005 - 10:56 AM
in
Modifications
I think that that depends on the particular Foam Backer Rod that you're using to make darts (assuming that you're using micro stefans)...7/16" ID wouldn't fit my 1/2" FBR very well, and if it fits yours, I'm guessing it'll be a little on the tight side.DO you think 7/16 ID would be too small or still usable for good distances on the at3k.
Where are you getting your PETG (I'm just curious, never used PETG myself)?
#63793 At3k
Posted by
on 17 September 2005 - 07:26 PM
in
Modifications
If you have a dremel, then go with Bag's advice...that will make anything fit, and it won't cost you any more.
I also went around 5/16" under the line, and my 9/16" brass fit in just fine, but that will cost you more money (~$6 for two feet of brass at my local Ace Hardware), and you should be able to get PETG to work.
I also went around 5/16" under the line, and my 9/16" brass fit in just fine, but that will cost you more money (~$6 for two feet of brass at my local Ace Hardware), and you should be able to get PETG to work.
#64929 At3k Help
Posted by
on 02 October 2005 - 10:27 PM
in
Modifications
Don't worry, I think that a lot of stock AT3K's are like that (have darts that don't fire). Mine were, but it was just an issue of a really bulky restrictor that was holding the dart in the barrel.
As far as a good barrel replacement:
If you're looking to single the AT3K (I have one singled because the rotator broke) you can replace the barrel with pretty much anything that you have lying around that fits your darts, it doesn't have to be PETG.
The reason that most mods are PETG is because you're limited on room if you want to keep the six rotating barrels. PETG fits nicely, but you can also use 9/16" OD Brass for very similar performance. Crayola barrels would probably fit nicely (I plan on trying that out on an AT3K that I have lying around). Anything with a bigger outer diameter, like PVC, will be a pain to fit in the six barrel slots, if it's even possible.
I'm sure there's a restrictor removal somewhere, but I don't remember seeing one...a barrel replacement will most likely be a lot easier.
As far as a good barrel replacement:
If you're looking to single the AT3K (I have one singled because the rotator broke) you can replace the barrel with pretty much anything that you have lying around that fits your darts, it doesn't have to be PETG.
The reason that most mods are PETG is because you're limited on room if you want to keep the six rotating barrels. PETG fits nicely, but you can also use 9/16" OD Brass for very similar performance. Crayola barrels would probably fit nicely (I plan on trying that out on an AT3K that I have lying around). Anything with a bigger outer diameter, like PVC, will be a pain to fit in the six barrel slots, if it's even possible.
I'm sure there's a restrictor removal somewhere, but I don't remember seeing one...a barrel replacement will most likely be a lot easier.
#65076 At3k Help
Posted by
on 04 October 2005 - 09:50 PM
in
Modifications
Plugging the release will give a big boost to your ranges, but just make sure you don't pump more than 5 times or so, or your tank may burst.
#66518 Barrel Selection
Posted by
on 24 October 2005 - 06:03 PM
in
Modifications
Well, using 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC for 1/2" diameter micro stefans won't give you good results at all. The 1/2" PVC has a 5/8" inner diameter, which is only good for mega stefans. So if you're choosing between PVC and CPVC for micros, you really only have one choice, and that is CPVC.
If you can't get brass, that I can assume that you also can't get PETG. The other barrel materials to consider are Sch. 80 PVC (haven't used this, but some people claim it works) and Crayolas. Crayolas might be a good, slightly less constricted alternative to CVPC for your guns.
In general, if you have a spring gun (or any gun with a high air volume / slow air delivery), you will benefit from a constriction.
If you can't get brass, that I can assume that you also can't get PETG. The other barrel materials to consider are Sch. 80 PVC (haven't used this, but some people claim it works) and Crayolas. Crayolas might be a good, slightly less constricted alternative to CVPC for your guns.
In general, if you have a spring gun (or any gun with a high air volume / slow air delivery), you will benefit from a constriction.
#66618 Barrel Selection
Posted by
on 26 October 2005 - 07:42 PM
in
Modifications
Copper is usually a VERY loose fit for micros, so I wouldn't ever use it on a spring gun. I've seen copper used on air guns that have a very large air volume, but personally I find that brass works better for both spring and air guns.
#66091 Barrels
Posted by
on 18 October 2005 - 09:37 PM
in
Modifications
Boltsniper had some of the math in his FAR writeup:
That's the most technical approach to it that I can remember seeing. When determining barrel sizes for myself, I just figure the more powerful the gun, the longer the barrel. I start at 12" and just work down from there until I get a size that works. Most 'rifle' guns that I have use 1/2" PVC couplers, so I already have some barrels lying around that I can try.
I did some experimentation to determine what would be the optimal barrel length for a given plunger size. The goal was to find the barrel length for which the dart would exit the barrel as the plunger reaches the end of the plunger tube. I started off by matching the volume of the plunger to the volume of the barrel. I knew that this was going to produce too long a barrel but it was a good place to start. This would assume that the air inside the plunger and barrel is incompressible and that there are no leaks. In the real world this is not the case. I reduced the barrel length until I had found the length at which the dart was leaving the barrel as the plunger was reaching its stop, coinciding with the maximum attainable range. Experimentally the plunger volume seems to be about 4 times that of the barrel. The relation for barrel to plunger size can be summed up in the following equation,
where rb is the barrel radius, rp is the plunger radius, lb is the barrel length, and lp is the plunger length. For Nerf applications the barrel is almost always 1/2" PVC or CPVC. rb can then be set as a constant at 0.25" and removed from the equation. Since we are trying to solve for the barrel length with a given plunger size, the equation can be rearranged and simplified to:
This simple equation makes it easy to roughly but quickly size a barrel to a given plunger. The equation could also be used to size a plunger for a given length barrel. This equation is based on experimental data and is not perfect. Four is not the golden number. This produces the optimal barrel length for the situation I was testing. The type of dart, dart-barrel friction, and total system volume will likely effect the optimal ratio. Nevertheless, the above equation can be used as a starting point.
That's the most technical approach to it that I can remember seeing. When determining barrel sizes for myself, I just figure the more powerful the gun, the longer the barrel. I start at 12" and just work down from there until I get a size that works. Most 'rifle' guns that I have use 1/2" PVC couplers, so I already have some barrels lying around that I can try.
#63447 Bolt Action Magazine Fed Air Pressure Nerf
Posted by
on 10 September 2005 - 09:02 PM
in
Homemades
Could you say a little bit more about how you made the PVC pump you mentioned? Also, supposing that a pump on an existing nerf gun (say an AirTech 3000) broke, would it be possible to use a PVC pump like the one you made as a replacement?
#63351 Bolt Action Magazine Fed Air Pressure Nerf
Posted by
on 08 September 2005 - 08:18 PM
in
Homemades
First off, great job! That looks awesome!
As a newbie looking at your ranges, that looks like a VERY powerful weapon. How did you test the ranges? Was that a level shot, and was there any dart skip? Does it hurt to get shot from a closer range (say 30')?
Also, do you use all the pressure up in one shot, or does it only let out a little bit of pressure at a time, like in Osiris' homemade?
As a newbie looking at your ranges, that looks like a VERY powerful weapon. How did you test the ranges? Was that a level shot, and was there any dart skip? Does it hurt to get shot from a closer range (say 30')?
Also, do you use all the pressure up in one shot, or does it only let out a little bit of pressure at a time, like in Osiris' homemade?
#67163 Bolts New Pistol
Posted by
on 05 November 2005 - 05:46 PM
in
General Nerf
Well, in that case, I see no reason why it wouldn't work. You're combining a proven clip design with a working pistol. If the aesthetic work is as clean as it is on Boltsniper's homemades, it may well turn out to be the best looking nerf weapon that I have ever seen.
#67168 Bolts New Pistol
Posted by
on 05 November 2005 - 07:59 PM
in
General Nerf
Well, I suppose that you could do it as pictured supposing that the bolt and the barrel were the same piece, as in a breech. You'd just have to pull the barrel out and push it back in to load the next dart. Not as nice as a breech handle, but you could build it more along the perportions pictured.
#66671 Boltsniper Gns Pistol For Sale
Posted by
on 27 October 2005 - 09:08 PM
in
Homemades
Darn...my GNS will be obsolete before I even get the rest of the parts to build it.I took a break from it and brainstormed a new homemade that's gonna kick ass.
Not only does the GNS look awesome, the ranges are great, with an edge over Nerf's current-generation pistols.
Can't wait to see schmatics for the GNS parts as well as pics of the new gun. I can tell you that in my community alone, there are plenty of people hanging on every word you post, Boltsniper.
#63591 Buzuca
Posted by
on 13 September 2005 - 07:59 PM
in
Modifications
I have no idea why you would want to do this...NF lights are completely and utterly useless in a war.
If you take a look at the NF innards, you'll see that pulling the trigger lightly brings two metal pieces together, completing the circuit to lite the NF light. Now you have to figure out a way to install these metal pieces in your other gun (which I'm guessing is not easy, if it's even possible). Then you'll have to find a way to cut the battery case out of the NiteFinder grip...and then unscrew the laser light, snip the wires, and then rewire it up again correctly in the new gun.
If you have your heart set on one of these things, your best bet is to go to Wal Mart and buy a 'Daisy Electronic Point Sight' or the like. They are about $8 ea, and then you can either make your own dovetail mount or just take some e-tape and tape it to the top of your gun (or the side, if you prefer).
If you take a look at the NF innards, you'll see that pulling the trigger lightly brings two metal pieces together, completing the circuit to lite the NF light. Now you have to figure out a way to install these metal pieces in your other gun (which I'm guessing is not easy, if it's even possible). Then you'll have to find a way to cut the battery case out of the NiteFinder grip...and then unscrew the laser light, snip the wires, and then rewire it up again correctly in the new gun.
If you have your heart set on one of these things, your best bet is to go to Wal Mart and buy a 'Daisy Electronic Point Sight' or the like. They are about $8 ea, and then you can either make your own dovetail mount or just take some e-tape and tape it to the top of your gun (or the side, if you prefer).
#69951 Chewbacca's Mauser
Posted by
on 27 December 2005 - 12:14 PM
in
Modifications
I think that it's a nice mod because you really accomplished your goal...making a gun with pistol-like performance have a pistol-like size. I don't think it would have reminded me of a Mauser without you saying so, though, so I think you need to take some more steps if that's what you're after.
#71268 Chronicle Of An F.a.r.
Posted by
on 19 January 2006 - 07:27 PM
in
Homemades
In mine, I'm boring out the two T-couplers to fit over one 27" segment of PVC, and then dremeling out the slots after I've slid the couplers over. I never thought to do it the other way, but sounds good.This is the back section of the Upper reciever. There is a front section connected with the T-coupler also. Or I will plastic Epoxy another end to it, for easier cutting and dremeling.
As far as the realistic paint jobs, I still like the black color scheme used in all of boltsniper's weapons (that I know of). If you call that a color scheme. I use Krylon Fusion black on most of my weapons. Keep in mind that all of my wars are on private property away from the public, hundreds of feet from any roads even.
#71147 Chronicle Of An F.a.r.
Posted by
on 17 January 2006 - 10:54 PM
in
Homemades
Cool! I'm also just starting my own FAR, though I haven't gotten past the point of no return (as in, I'm not sure right now that I'll get from start to finish with it...if you've ever started a really extensive project, you know the feeling). In my opinion, the more info out there on the FAR, the better. I'm still a little curious about how the mag is held in, as well as how to build the ejector part of the bolt, so I'm really looking forward to your ideas. Sometimes it seems like Boltsniper is just so many miles ahead of me that the FAR looks impossible, so seeing someone more down-to-earth really helps.
I look forward to future entries!
Also, I'm a little confused about this pic you posted:
I kind of see the part that holds back (like you said)...but isn't that just a 'hole' cut out of the Upper Reciever? And isn't the Upper Reciever 27 inches long? Looks a little short...could you explain?
I look forward to future entries!
Also, I'm a little confused about this pic you posted:
I kind of see the part that holds back (like you said)...but isn't that just a 'hole' cut out of the Upper Reciever? And isn't the Upper Reciever 27 inches long? Looks a little short...could you explain?
#68673 Crossbow
Posted by
on 01 December 2005 - 08:54 PM
in
General Nerf
The 'someone' that you're refering to probably had a very minimal part in the increase in price, from what I see. It's simple supply/demand theory. Once the seller saw how fast they were going, she would have racheted up the price a notch anyway. The way I see it (though I may or may not be alone here), the person who told her was just being a good neighbor, not doing anything stupid.
#71829 Crossfire Mod
Posted by
on 28 January 2006 - 09:35 PM
in
Modifications
I saw a crossfire at TRU today...and I was a little pissed because (unless I'm completely wrong) you can't see the gun, only the box...the actual gun is hidden from view. That's not horribly bad, but I certainly didn't expect it to be that small.
Congratulations on your mod...those are some pretty good ranges. Makes me think that I should try some 17/32" brass with some nitefinders.
Based on your experience with this gun, how workable do you think a spring replacement would be? I have no clue if it would actually work, but I now have 2 'new' nitefinder springs, which at first glance look to be stronger than the spring in your pictures. But I've never replaced a spring on a top-cocking gun, so someone will have to tell me if it's even possible.
Congratulations on your mod...those are some pretty good ranges. Makes me think that I should try some 17/32" brass with some nitefinders.
Based on your experience with this gun, how workable do you think a spring replacement would be? I have no clue if it would actually work, but I now have 2 'new' nitefinder springs, which at first glance look to be stronger than the spring in your pictures. But I've never replaced a spring on a top-cocking gun, so someone will have to tell me if it's even possible.
#66771 Dart Tag Firestrike In Stores!
Posted by
on 29 October 2005 - 08:14 PM
in
General Nerf
Would they allow you to buy one? Baghead said he saw them in his Wal Mart, but he couldn't buy them because they were 'recalled'. If they do let people buy them, that sounds like a pretty good deal.
#69895 Dart Tag Mod? Yes I Searched
Posted by
on 26 December 2005 - 07:03 PM
in
Modifications
Put a different way, the 'method' of cocking is not limited. The force is determined by the spring itself, not the mechanism. Admittedly, there are limitations based on the strength of the plastic in the cocking mechanism, but you can always try to reinforce.
Maybe I'm just better at searching (don't know how that's possible, you just type in what you're looking for), but I did find this: Flamebo's Mod
Maybe I'm just better at searching (don't know how that's possible, you just type in what you're looking for), but I did find this: Flamebo's Mod
#64810 Do You Search?
Posted by
on 02 October 2005 - 09:16 AM
in
General Nerf
I usually search with Google. It works a lot better than the search function built in to the forums. I'm sure this has been said before, but just go to Google and type in
site:nerfhaven.com "your-search-here"
into the search bar.
site:nerfhaven.com "your-search-here"
into the search bar.
#66360 Favorite Energy Drink?
Posted by
on 22 October 2005 - 10:25 PM
in
Off Topic
I don't really go for energy drinks, but in place of that I go through a crapload of Coffee and Green Tea.
Redbull...ugh. It's just aweful.
Redbull...ugh. It's just aweful.
#65861 Firefly Not A Pistol?
Posted by
on 15 October 2005 - 08:03 PM
in
General Nerf
Well, I think that our 'classification' is ROF. That's in my opinion the biggest quality a nerf gun has. Single-shot, semi-auto, full-auto or something like that. Though since I've started modding, bolt-action is also a pretty good term to use.
Quick Fact: If I remember correctly, the P90 and the Five-seveN have the same ammunition because they're munufactured by the same company, Fabrique Nationale. Which is why Five-seveN has the wierd capitolizations.
Quick Fact: If I remember correctly, the P90 and the Five-seveN have the same ammunition because they're munufactured by the same company, Fabrique Nationale. Which is why Five-seveN has the wierd capitolizations.
#69976 First Gun?
Posted by
on 27 December 2005 - 05:59 PM
in
General Nerf
Supermaxx 2500: The neighbors down the road had parties occasionally, and all of us kids needed something to do. I nerfed quite a bit before I actually bought the gun...another neighborhood kid had quite a large arsenal, from which I used the Ratchet Blast, Eagle Eye, and Bow 'n Arrow.
#65400 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm
Posted by
on 09 October 2005 - 06:32 PM
in
Homemades
I already have most of the required stuff for building one of these, might have to get some new Dremel bits though. What I'm worried about is the spring. Will I be able to find a spring in the hardware store that will work for this project once the writeup is done? Is it possible to buy an AR15 spring online for this project, or is that illegal because it's a piece of a real rifle (I don't own any real firearms)?
#65133 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm
Posted by
on 05 October 2005 - 08:31 PM
in
Homemades
You really deserve about 200 cookies for this one, boltsniper. I'm really looking forward to the schematic, the same kind of thing you did for the Excel file for the FAR. I really like how you've mapped out everything you've done; gives everyone a lot of ideas. I'm a little scared about the aluminum part, but maybe I won't be after the writeup.
#65410 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm
Posted by
on 09 October 2005 - 09:39 PM
in
Homemades
Thanks for clearing that up. Looks like it won't cost an arm and a leg, either.
#65939 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm
Posted by
on 16 October 2005 - 04:55 PM
in
Homemades
True. If I order online I'm getting at least three...it'd be a waste not to, at that shipping price.The $7 dollar shipping charge is due to it being ups, if you order more than one the shipping stays the same.
#65978 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm
Posted by
on 16 October 2005 - 10:39 PM
in
Homemades
Well, I'm not Boltsniper, but when I take a look at that trigger plate I don't see any way that it could be made without a dremel...in fact, I'm a little scared about how I'm going to do it WITH a dremel, but Ace's aluminum comes in big sheets, so I'll have some time to practice with it once there are some exact dimensions posted. Here's Bolt's pic:Damn, how much would you say of the work requires dremeling? Like is it pretty much impossible to make one with a kit without a dremel?
$5 sounds like a very reasonable price for shipping.
EDIT: oops...Bolt beat me to the answer; sorry about that.
#65937 Grammaton Cleric's Sidearm
Posted by
on 16 October 2005 - 04:21 PM
in
Homemades
Nice image there. I guess the big obstacle I still see in developing a pistol with the clip housed in the grip is the trigger mechanism....for the trigger mechanism to contact the plunger, I believe that there would have to be some wire or something that would pass right through the clip.
Does $20 include shipping? The shipping on just the spring for a lot of the sites I've seen seems to be in the $7 range, so your deal is looking better and better. I'm gonna check around some local places that sell guns/parts, see if they can help me out.
And, apologies in advance for being an ass, but Bolt, on your sig, I believe you mean 'Achtung'...I'm a German speaker and those things get on me after a while.
Does $20 include shipping? The shipping on just the spring for a lot of the sites I've seen seems to be in the $7 range, so your deal is looking better and better. I'm gonna check around some local places that sell guns/parts, see if they can help me out.
And, apologies in advance for being an ass, but Bolt, on your sig, I believe you mean 'Achtung'...I'm a German speaker and those things get on me after a while.
