Cool stuff!

What's the advantage of doing this mod over just using a lightly modded Rapidstrike, besides size and the engineering/modding challenge? (which I fully understand and commend)

Ball pumps often have a bigger diameter and the 6 to 10" pumps are still small enough to integrate onto most shells. For higher volume lower pressure the key thing to watch for is pump diameter. The bigger the diameter the more volume it will move - at the cost of pressure.

And correspondingly, effort. My Schwinn floor pump takes a lot of muscle to use compared to pumps with a much narrower diameter.

Neat write up. I had to make heavy changes to my Stryfe's battery door to house it's 6 cell AA NiMH Eneloop battery pack, but this stock might be able to avoid that trouble while keeping things looking clean and as "stock" as possible. If I get a chance to get one of these for cheap, I'll definitely pick one up.

How comfortable is that stock?

If you use AA sized cells to power your Hyperfire, you'll need high quality NiMH or NiCd cells. Using AA alkaline cells in the Hyperfire won't work very well since they can't handle the current draw.

You'll then need some AA-D converters, but there's no quick and easy way considering how stingy you'll have to be with simple supplies like electrical tape. Maybe you can jury rig something with aluminum foil, paper strips and AA NiMH cells. Good luck, it'll be ugly.

It'll work in that the motors will fit, but the wiring lengths will be all wrong. Look at the blastersmith UK site for their kit & also look up foamdataservices YouTube video on rewiring the demolisher. It's actually one of the more difficult ones to rewire because of the opposite side battery tray & the lack of much internal room.

I have heard/seen this as well.

I think the Sledgefire is immensely practical for indoor wars in tight quarters, like residential houses. Sure, the ROF is low, but being able to place 3 darts with great spread can't be beat by most stock blasters. 

I think it's worth looking into. I think potential issues you'll have to figure out is pricing, availability and consistency of the ear plug's diameter.

Keep in mind that I think the foam blanks most people use for slugs/stefans only costs a few cents (for the raw material only), so unless you can get the earplugs for under 8 cents per pair, I doubt this is something most people will be able to afford to use, at least when compared to slugs/stefans.

That's really cool, cockerpunk.

What's the fun in having a messenger bag when as I said you could theoretically have mags going as far out as you can reach, yeah you would be weighed down but you would never run out of ammo. I would bet a long as you are athletic enough you could last the longest in any hvz if you have enough mags. In fact, I have thought of making a rifle that has two sets of workable flywheels in it as to allow you to fire out of the back magazine well to always have ammo to fire. And that coupled with a setup like this would allow you to last forever in anything not power based

You can never have enough ammo.

For my superstock loadout, I use a pair of dump pouches, similar to what you've posted. They hold 18 dart Nerf stick mags, but don't work too well since they're not deep enough and the elastic at the top make it hard to load the dump pouch to full capacity.

I know you're using different mags and those dump pouches could have different measurements than mine, but if they're a "standard" size, I'm skeptical as to how well they'll hold stick mags that are bigger than regular 18 dart Nerf stick mags.

Its a good point but the good will that I went to for the first time today ripped me off and were not good on the phone the worst part is they happen to be not white and im not being racist im noticing there behavior.. There just fitting the stealing and ripping people off sterotype and its just not my fault there gloomy and rip you off when they have the chance kind of people. So I dont think making friends at that store is an option. If you really want details on the story just tell me or private message me.

Forget I tried to offer advice in this thread.

That's a nice little sidearm!

I currently run 3 imr 14500 800Mah and a dummy on all my FWB. Works pretty well and I haven't noticed much degrading of the motors. Its a huge performance increase but not recommended. I have just purchased a dozen MTB HoneyBadger motors and plan to upgrade to 2s Lipo on all my blasters. I really do not have a need(or see a significant value on going 3s, plus the MTB Rhinos are hard to get and I'm not going to 180's....

They have them here: http://www.containme...t-category/mtb/

Actually, ALL motors eventually fail, they just have different fail modes.  Brushless motors can still have bushings/bearings fail, and vibrations will still work harden the thin wire used in the windings causing them to break at the commutator.  

As for the OP's question, you are going to have to deal with the motors burning out eventually either way with a voltage upgrade, it is inevitable.  The stock motors use flimsy metal brushes that will fail much more rapidly as the voltage is ramped up.  If you want to hold this off, I wouldnt go over 2 cells (about 8 volts fully charged) from IMRs or a lipo.  This is a minor upgrade though, and wouldnt give you the performance you would likely see from better carbon brushed motors (even at a lover voltage).

Of course they do! But you can't be implying that operating brushed motors within specs will last comparably as long as operating a brushless motor within specs.

MTB Rhinos work very well in the Stryfe, whether it's a 2s or 3s lithium setup. Too much FPS makes most darts very inaccurate, but that's another issue for another topic...

Yes upon inspection of this post (Thank you shand) I've narrowed it down to over volting. I pushed it way to hard. My next test will be with 2 new motors and 2 ultrafires with 2 dummy cells for safety.

According to my other research I've noticed that configuration matters. two parallel batteries will create more voltage with the same amperage while two batteries in series will allow more amperage at lower voltage.

You've got it backwards. 

Let's use a pair of AA Eneloops (1.2v nominal with 2,000 mah capacity) to illustrate.

Two AA Eneloops in series = 2.4v nominal and 2,000 mah capacity.

Two AA Eneloops in parallel = 1.2v nominal and 4,000 mah capacity.

I considered using the RM2 motors in my Stryfe so I could use 4 AA eneloops. But after some research, it looked like they weren't the more durable motors. I went with MTB Rhinos and a 6 cell Eneloop setup instead.

I think your theory is correct and you might have given them too much voltage. Check this page out:

http://nerfhaven.com...ltage-increase/

Ok, that makes sense.  Will buying higher quality motors increase that time? If I go above the recommended voltage,  is there any way to know how much faster the motors will die?

It depends on specs of the motor.

Not without looking at a spec sheet or doing experiments yourself.

Brushed motors, such as the type installed in a stock Stryfe always "burnout." Their commutators/brushes wear away and/or their bearings fail and they become useless. When upping the voltage and current sent to them, you will inherently reduce their lifespan.

So by using 2 or more Lithium (polymer or ion) cells, you will reduce the motors' life. By how much is pretty much speculation, but logic says you'll get shorter life the higher voltages you use.

Looks like the war was absolutely "chilled to perfection"

I'm part of DblDrgn's group, although as of late, I haven't had the time to join in some of their more recent games. But I can vouch for the group, though. I think you'll like the superstock style of play, given your signature.

South Jersey is pretty much the center of the major NIC players. Do a search and you'll find plenty of local Nerf wars in PA, NJ and NY.

What I did was epoxy a push-to-fit vinyl coupler to the end of the pump, then attached the vinyl tubing to the coupler

You can see what I mean here: http://nerfhaven.com...ider/?hl=raider

You can compare how I attached the vinyl tubing by looking/comparing the pictures in the first and last post. The last post shows what I mean about gluing the coupler to the pump.

Try playing in the rain and ask the flwyheelers which type of blaster is king.

The Retaliator and Sentinel seem to be good, popular springer choices.

If darts were stored for a long time in the cylinder/barrel of the Strongarm, what you observed isn't too surprising, since the darts have compressed so that they can no longer make an effective seal.

I could be wrong, but if the Strongarm works anything like a Maverick, then I bet this is what's happening (it happened to me with a Maverick back in the day).

I am unable to attend. I really miss these superstock wars, especially at this location.

 I would like to request that you try to talk to them about becoming a supplier or source for ammunition in particular. All of the current suppliers of knockoff darts are primarily offering full-length darts, which is fine for everyone else. Very few suppliers have continued to offer shorter lengths of darts that are more compatible with what NIC wars typically use. Artifact darts were close, but have gone absent.

 

Ideally I would prefer darts between 1-1/4" and 1-1/2" in total length with felt tips, since those two features are optimal for use in hoppers.

 

Oh trust me. Plenty of people in HvZ communities hate our guts.

Why?

Good to know, thanks.

As a proud owner of a stampede and a 3d printer, I can back that up. The breech of the stampede starts to jam at higher voltages upwards of 16v, and the gears are not made for modders, as I've had to print over 3 new sets of gear out of abs plastic. Planning to get metal gears soon.

 

Slightly more on topic, the decision between flywheel or elec springers comes down to your playstyle. if you rather to have more darts and less accuracy, flywheels. however if you want more continuous, accurate fire, go springer. 

So is it fair to say your modded Stampede shoots more accurately than a modded...Rapidstrike or Stryfe? If so, how big of an accuracy difference do you see?

I think the JST connectors refer to the balancing wires, not the "main" wires.

So you have essentially 3 options.

 

1. Thrift mags from goodwills and other places. Unreliable, but cheap.

2. Buy mags from people within the nerfing community. (You could put a thread in the Trading Section). 

3. There are super cheap nerf mags on Ebay from China. Shipping is slow and the mags are of questionable quality, but they're cheap. 

Ex: http://www.ebay.com/... clips&_sacat=0

This. Short of a friend or family member giving your their kid's Nerf collection, this is the cheapest way to get Nerf mags. Yardsales and rummage sales are best in my experience. You can usually get 18 dart stick mags (that are genuine Nerf brand) for 25 - 50 cents a piece. But as blitz mentioned, these are very unreliable sources. Just last month I got six 18 dart stick mags for $2 at a local rummage sale. But before that, I only found about three or four 18 dart stick mags from yardsaling over the past 1-2 years. Basically, it's hit or miss.

Buying from the NH community is a decent option, as well. I think the going rate for a lot of eight 18 dart stick mags is what...$40 shipped? Do a search in the marketplace thread here on NH to get an idea of what to spend.

Given my current obligations, I won't be able to make one for a while, so it's not a scheduling issue; I appreciate the accommodation, though!

I hope to be able to join back up with you guys soon, though. It'll be interesting to see what kind of changes you've made, as well as the new faces.

And if you anticipate too high, can you save the money?
If to low, than what?

Just seems, very risky. 

I imagine you can use the left over funds along with cash in any retail establishment that accepts AMEX.

I will be unable to make this war, but to those thinking about it, it's a great superstock war group!

We allow shields, but only if their offensive "weapon" is a melee item, like a sword. Needless to say, we get a lot of face shots since that's basically the only thing we can reliably hit when someone uses a large shield.

I'm interested. I assume these have the same dimensions as regular Nerf Elite darts?

EDIT: After skimming the Gizmodo article, it appears they're directly compatible with regular Nerf Elite darts. It'll be interesting to see how these work in flywheel blasters.

Is aluminum used as the plunger tube material because it has more consistent ID tolerances?

Sweet work. This is actually a homemade I'd consider using, since I can use equipment from my superstock set up.

I'm not one for homemades, but I gotta admit, that's a cool looking piece of engineering.

Keeping darts in revolver type cylinders isn't great, since it slightly deforms the darts over time.This leads the darts sliding out of the cylinder and reduced power. At least this was the case with older blasters, like the Spectre and Maverick. I assume the same still applies with more modern cylinder Nerf blasters, but I could be wrong.