Even with brand new batteries, the six D batteries in the stock electrical setup only yield 9 volts of potential to your motor. If you have replaced the stock spring with a stronger one, it may be a good idea to perform a voltage mod. Nothing too crazy, as it seems to be just short of functioning.
Also, re-greasing the O-ring couldn’t hurt. = )
Aeromech's Content
There have been 378 items by Aeromech (Search limited from 26-December 96)
#303468 [Help] Stampede mod gone wrong?
Posted by
on 17 August 2011 - 08:12 PM
in
Modifications
#305442 CS-70 Marauder
Posted by
on 06 October 2011 - 03:13 PM
in
Modifications
Very nice work. Even if it's not necessarily "practical" it certainly looks like a fun blaster. Good job on the write up.
#305891 Nerf ''FN P90''
Posted by
on 15 October 2011 - 12:00 AM
in
Modifications
Paint that thing hot pink right now! Black/dark gray nerf blasters are never a good way to go. At least keep the tip orange, though in my opinion that's not enough.
Anyway, I do think it's a very creative cosmetic enhancement. The deploy stock and firefly handle offer huge amounts of extra room, I see a lot of potential for LEDs and other cosmetic mods to be integrated into the shell, if you have the desire and/or time.
Anyway, I do think it's a very creative cosmetic enhancement. The deploy stock and firefly handle offer huge amounts of extra room, I see a lot of potential for LEDs and other cosmetic mods to be integrated into the shell, if you have the desire and/or time.
#306365 nerf warz va
Posted by
on 23 October 2011 - 11:43 AM
in
Nerf Wars
Might be a good idea to include some stipulation in regards to eye protection, especially when allowing relatively "heavy" modifications to blasters.
#306367 Please Stop the Insanity
Posted by
on 23 October 2011 - 12:10 PM
in
Site Feedback
TaerKitty: I feel your pain undoubtedly. I lurked this site for three years before joining, and I think you certainly have a point.
From my experience in lurking this site, however, I understand that these radical suggestions are not ours to make. Vacc or Talio once stated that this site is governed in a totalitarian manner; it is different from other free for all sites. If this is what they want to do that is not something we lose our heads about. Keep reporting the bad threads and let the admins deal with the garbage.
Someone on this post also stated that they are only 12. That is not an excuse. Regardless of your age, these simple rules must be followed. End of story.
From my experience in lurking this site, however, I understand that these radical suggestions are not ours to make. Vacc or Talio once stated that this site is governed in a totalitarian manner; it is different from other free for all sites. If this is what they want to do that is not something we lose our heads about. Keep reporting the bad threads and let the admins deal with the garbage.
Someone on this post also stated that they are only 12. That is not an excuse. Regardless of your age, these simple rules must be followed. End of story.
#306488 Shorty Maverick
Posted by
on 24 October 2011 - 11:35 PM
in
Modifications
Your video does a good job showcasing the whole of the blaster; the turret looks very clean. I'm glad someone figured out how to rear-load this thing as well. I personally dislike the Maverick but cosmetically this is beautiful.
Nice innovation and nice mod.
Nice innovation and nice mod.
#306615 Need suggestions for Longshot mod (and a bit of another)
Posted by
on 28 October 2011 - 01:11 PM
in
Modifications
I've looked around a bit, and some big mods I found are the Angel Breech, Bolt sled reinforcement, and the Mod collection by thedom21.
If you are making a Slamfire capable Longshot, it will be necessary to cannibalize a Raider for it's slamfire mechanism. With some slight mods it could be made to function again, but realize that takes away the Raider's only real advantage. Also, from constructing the original slamfire LS, I can tell you alot of work and alterations to the shell are necessary to make this possible, though thedom21 does a good job of explaining it. Just know what you are getting into if you are attempting this.
As for suggestions on what to do with it: it depends on what you are going for, ie: ROF, range, versatility, etc. I would recommend the Slamfire mod and a moderate spring combo for a good balance, but understand the slamfire feature is essentially useless without some sort of foregrip. It's ALOT of work, and a big time investment.
Best wishes on your mods.
#306663 FNG Spec Double Shot
Posted by
on 29 October 2011 - 10:51 AM
in
Modifications
hey guys, here's a double shot i did a couple of weeks ago
to start with, i cut the barrel down and converted it to rear cocking. i know most people think the folding cocking thing is the coolest bit of the double shot, but i didn't like it all that much, and it made the blaster a real pain to re-assemble
So what exactly is the point of this post? All of these mods can already be found in the modification directory. There's a pictures thread here for a reason.
Correct capitalization would also be nice. Not painting your blaster black would be even better.
#306872 Recon slam-fire Mod
Posted by
on 03 November 2011 - 12:22 PM
in
Modifications
So every time you Prime the blaster forward, at the last instant of forward travel, the new trigger part is pulled forward slightly. The rear triangular section of the trigger assembly moves forward, and forces the trigger plate upward, releasing the reverse-plunger tube, and firing the blaster. Correct?
I am not a huge fan of the "slamfire only" fire mode of this blaster, If I successfully slamfire-mod a Recon, I would like to try to preserve the traditional mode of fire, although this would be quite a challenge. It's pretty cramped in there.
Still, this is very innovative. Good work, and nice write up. Try to be a bit more descriptive if you can, though the pictures helped very much.
I am not a huge fan of the "slamfire only" fire mode of this blaster, If I successfully slamfire-mod a Recon, I would like to try to preserve the traditional mode of fire, although this would be quite a challenge. It's pretty cramped in there.
Still, this is very innovative. Good work, and nice write up. Try to be a bit more descriptive if you can, though the pictures helped very much.
#306879 Recon slam-fire Mod
Posted by
on 03 November 2011 - 02:16 PM
in
Modifications
The problem with any slamfire gun, even if they still have standard fire, is that they're too jerky to be used in an outdoor war by themselves. And why would you want to decrease the accuracy of a recon when you could just buy a speedload 6? They already do this, and they cost $5 less than a full recon.
It is not the slamfire itself that makes a blaster "inaccurate." It is human error which makes the blaster less accurate, as high ROF generated by a rapid back-and-forth priming action will upset one's aim, and in a situation where high dart output is required, accuracy may not be terribly important. (I know certain stock Nerf darts are inaccurate, but for argument's sake, I'm suggesting they will fly in a relatively straight line. This argument would be better suited when using a more powerful blaster capable of firing stefans.)
Mechanically speaking, making a blaster slamfire capable should in no way affect the accuracy or ranges experienced by said blaster.
#306940 Big Salvo tank on SSPB Body
Posted by
on 04 November 2011 - 01:16 PM
in
Modifications
Something that big would take at least 100 pumps to fill. My Secret Strike Pocket Hornets (Tiny Tim Mk.2's) take 22-24 pumps to fill, and those are relatively tiny hornet tanks. I can't see this popping the OPRV in any fewer than 50 pumps. That said, I love that you took this to the next level, props.
So how many pumps does this actually take to fill?
Excellent work, by the way. I can see shotgun loading this and affixing it to a forearm-brace for use in a last-resort situation Assassin's Creed style.
#307004 Pump action spectre
Posted by
on 05 November 2011 - 07:00 PM
in
Modifications
The idea is novel. The execution is... sloppy to say the least.
While using the materials you had on hand may have been quick and easy, the design does not look very sturdy at all. The wood is very thin at some points; it seems like a 12 inch long splinter waiting to happen. The grip itself appears to be made of a cardboard-like material, and the priming bars are taped onto that. The wooden bars also don't seem to be held on very well to the original priming mechanism.
Next time might I suggest:
-Using PVC for the forward grip.
-Using PVC, metal, or a stronger wood than paint stirrers for priming bars.
-Securing the priming bars to the forward grip with solvent weld, epoxies, or screws.
-Securing the priming bars to the original priming handle with bolts and reinforced with an adhesive. Or remove it entirely.
I don't wish to sound as though I'm flaming you. I'm merely offering my constructive criticism. This is a great idea, and I would love for it to be carried out to its fullest potential.
While using the materials you had on hand may have been quick and easy, the design does not look very sturdy at all. The wood is very thin at some points; it seems like a 12 inch long splinter waiting to happen. The grip itself appears to be made of a cardboard-like material, and the priming bars are taped onto that. The wooden bars also don't seem to be held on very well to the original priming mechanism.
Next time might I suggest:
-Using PVC for the forward grip.
-Using PVC, metal, or a stronger wood than paint stirrers for priming bars.
-Securing the priming bars to the forward grip with solvent weld, epoxies, or screws.
-Securing the priming bars to the original priming handle with bolts and reinforced with an adhesive. Or remove it entirely.
I don't wish to sound as though I'm flaming you. I'm merely offering my constructive criticism. This is a great idea, and I would love for it to be carried out to its fullest potential.
#307058 Alternative Ammo
Posted by
on 06 November 2011 - 10:05 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
The hell with how fun it would be, how dangerous would it be? Or better yet, how dangerous would it make us be percieved?I would love to move away from foam darts, and towards some more durable or easy to produce ammo. One thing I would be concerned about is making ammo which is too good. Part of what makes nerf fun is the relatively shitty performance of the blasters. Right now, the ammo we use effectively caps performance at 100-150ft, and accuracy is pretty abysmal. New ammo such as this would probably raise the performance bar - but would that make the game more or less fun?
Based on the war threads posted in the last few years, there seems to be a trend: most have moved away from allowing traditional stefans to be used and now allow slugs or some safer alternative. The projectiles mentioned in this thread would at the very least need to be padded somehow.
The sport already has a generally negative connotation with press and parents. Even a heavily modified or homemade blaster still fires a projectile that is mostly soft FBR. If a passerby was to stop you and ask what you were doing while using this type of ammunition, you could no longer truthfully say that your "toy" launches harmless Non-Expanding Recreation Foam at other human beings. If we can't call it a NERF blaster to the general public, who is already largely ignorant of how harmless our sport is, perhaps we should continue the current trend of erring on the side of caution with our ammunition.
#307307 Raider drum problems
Posted by
on 13 November 2011 - 01:04 PM
in
General Nerf
Since you cannot post pictures and don't seem to know what's actually going on inside your drum:
Search for Raider drum internals on this site and on the internet in general. Learn why the Raider drum works the way it does. From here on there are a limited number of things that could cause your drum to malfunction. Open your drum and figure out which one of these problems is causing the malfunction. Post your results here.
I really don't see the issue here. If your drum is broken, use that thing above your shoulders and fix it.
Search for Raider drum internals on this site and on the internet in general. Learn why the Raider drum works the way it does. From here on there are a limited number of things that could cause your drum to malfunction. Open your drum and figure out which one of these problems is causing the malfunction. Post your results here.
I really don't see the issue here. If your drum is broken, use that thing above your shoulders and fix it.
#307335 Long Strike Problam
Posted by
on 14 November 2011 - 12:18 PM
in
Modifications
If you upgraded your seal, there may be too much friction for the stock spring. Also, stretching your springs weakens it over time. Did you relube the o-ring when you replaced the plunger tube?
This addresses the overall poor ranges of the Longstrike, but not the discrepancy between single-loading and clip fed ranges. Could the dart tooth be malfunctioning, and not pushing the dart into the breech? Did you remove it, thinking it was a lock?
Again, you have the physical blaster, and therefore a better vantage point than most of us here to tackle your precise problem.
#307567 Maverick turret speedloader
Posted by
on 20 November 2011 - 01:07 AM
in
Modifications
If you need a speedloader, Venom213 sells high quality barrel spacers which could also be used for this application without the need to scrap a Maverick. Not that the Maverick would be missed...
EDIT: My bad, if the turret was scrap already then this is just being efficient.
EDIT: My bad, if the turret was scrap already then this is just being efficient.
#307882 Superior Missile Blaster
Posted by
on 28 November 2011 - 07:51 PM
in
Modifications
How many pumps does it take to fill all the tanks on this monster?
Very good work using that empty space inside the shell.
Very good work using that empty space inside the shell.
#307953 Buzz Bee Rogue Mod
Posted by
on 01 December 2011 - 08:40 AM
in
Modifications
I really like this. With some fortifications and additional improvements, you've got a mini-quadshot on your hands.
Are you aware of springs that would fit inside the PT? Rather, what is the ID of the PT?
Are you aware of springs that would fit inside the PT? Rather, what is the ID of the PT?
#307971 Buzz Bee Rogue Mod
Posted by
on 01 December 2011 - 10:04 PM
in
Modifications
I did this, but differently, but that's not the point. It's a "good" gun, and it works.
Exo: What did you do with your Rogue? Do you have any pictures left over from the build?
EDIT: For brevity.
#308142 The Darthramballs M1 prototype
Posted by
on 08 December 2011 - 09:02 PM
in
Modifications
Does this fire two darts at a time, and both dart pushers are united, or did you develop a means of alternating one dart from one drum firing off and then another dart from the second drum firing after the initial dart? That is, does this blaster fire two darts simultaneously, or still one at a time?
#308289 Right, well, I found this interesting thing...
Posted by
on 14 December 2011 - 02:39 PM
in
General Nerf
You guys are all mistaken. To be a good Nerfer, you definitely need gear like this. I don't go into battles without at least three different types of scope: thermal, night vision, and x-ray. I also don't go into battle without full ghille suits that mask radiant body heat because what would be the point otherwise?
Do I detect a hint of sarcasm? In any case... the sport isn't about strapping $100 tacticool crap onto our plastic toys. Perhaps for HVZ it could be useful, but even then it doesn't seem worth it, and almost makes this game too serious.
EDIT: Damn, I love this place.
#309064 Air Horn - Simplest mod ever!
Posted by
on 03 January 2012 - 12:35 PM
in
Modifications
This would be McGuyver's sidearm. Yet this is the simplest mod I've seen to date. The fact that this can be hidden as a Nerf blaster in plain sight is what really intrigues me. Very spy like of you, MIG, and a testament to your imagination.
#309200 how to make"rifling" in a cpvc or acrylic barell
Posted by
on 07 January 2012 - 02:15 AM
in
General Nerf
Roboman and Zorn are right. You can claim whatever you want, but to get people to believe something that seems to be physically impossible we'll need the details of your test setup and experiment including the raw test data.
I have shown before that data posted by proponents of rifling doesn't show that rifling improves accuracy or precision. And I have a few suggestions about testing rifling.
ST9000, Doom mentioned the subjectivity of these rifling tests in the links he provided. With the setup described in this thread, was the blaster bolted to a table/ secured in a vice, or did you just point and shoot to acquire your data? Also, was your air pressure approximately constant for each shot?
Also, other items to be taken from this:
-The main variable under scrutiny is the accuracy of the darts, but would the additional friction created by this fishing line setup also reduce range due to added friction?
-Finally, what would the lifespan of a stefan be with this setup? In other words, will this shred slugs?
#309362 Nerf Shotgun Comparison
Posted by
on 10 January 2012 - 07:52 PM
in
Modifications
A few options here:
What blaster do you use these attachments on at these wars? Also, if you can drop the darts in the barrel it's not going to give you the best ranges. If you can't get your hands on any good CPVC or appropriately sized barrel material, try crayola marker barrels. In my experience they work fine for shotgun type blasters; admittedly I use the former style of shotgun.
Another option is to choose whichever style shotgun you are most comfortable with, and integrate it into a blaster that gives you some range, that way you won't be, "picked off," as you put it. I know nothing of your modification experience, but a few minutes here should give you all the information you need for such a project.
What blaster do you use these attachments on at these wars? Also, if you can drop the darts in the barrel it's not going to give you the best ranges. If you can't get your hands on any good CPVC or appropriately sized barrel material, try crayola marker barrels. In my experience they work fine for shotgun type blasters; admittedly I use the former style of shotgun.
Another option is to choose whichever style shotgun you are most comfortable with, and integrate it into a blaster that gives you some range, that way you won't be, "picked off," as you put it. I know nothing of your modification experience, but a few minutes here should give you all the information you need for such a project.
#309426 Guide to Machining Metal
Posted by
on 12 January 2012 - 04:36 PM
in
Homemades
If this is going to be a full inclusive guide a brief band saw explanation would be a nice addition. It seems pretty self explanatory for someone with experience, but for the new guy who just got into making homemades or is a novice with machining in general a full guide of all common tools and machine would be a nice start.
If you have an idea for a tool guide or method of use it's probably beneficial to include it anyway.
If you have an idea for a tool guide or method of use it's probably beneficial to include it anyway.
#310138 Vulcan "Voltage", a 440 Volt Chain-Fed Coil Gun
Posted by
on 26 January 2012 - 12:32 AM
in
Off Topic
Although I wouldn't classify this as "Nerf," this is an interesting tech project you have here. Please upload a demonstration/ firing video soon. I would like to see this thing in action, as well as the charging time between each shot, force of the projectiles, etc.
#310139 The UTorrent (Rear loading, CPVC, Spring addition Torrent)
Posted by
on 26 January 2012 - 12:41 AM
in
Modifications
Ranges? 40'+ easily with slugs. It's not too good, but the Plunger Tube on this thing is only a tiny bit larger than a Mav.
I feel like a blaster with this much presence should have a better performance than this. Do you have a too tight/ too loose barrel fit? Is the plunger adequately lubricated? Could this handle a heavier spring with proper E-putty reinforcement in the priming handle and internals? (Similar to the heavy reinforcement of quadshots.)
You have a great idea here; the little details are where improvements could be made.
#310154 Nerf Stampede "Brass Breech" Mod Guide!
Posted by
on 26 January 2012 - 12:05 PM
in
Modifications
The two stampedes I modified last month had the issue of a variable inner diameter plunger tube; the diameter decreased by a few hundredths of an inch from the rear to forward part of the plunger, theoretically preventing a perfect seal for the whole of the plunger tube with the plunger head.
Although not directly related to the mod, I would like to know if you encountered this issue as well; is Nerf getting smarter, or is the epoxy driving me mad?
As for the mod, it is incredible. I don't think anyone can deny that.
Although not directly related to the mod, I would like to know if you encountered this issue as well; is Nerf getting smarter, or is the epoxy driving me mad?
As for the mod, it is incredible. I don't think anyone can deny that.
#310252 taking out AR's without opening up blaster?
Posted by
on 28 January 2012 - 03:33 AM
in
Modifications
3. I recommend taking the blaster apart if you would like to ensure that you do not harm the blaster, as the firefly is one of the blasters that the AR's just fall right out.
He's right, you know.
You don't seem like you have a terrible amount of modification experience. Do a little more research on the blaster and then open it up. You might even be able to implement a few more mods on this blaster if you become more knowledgeable on the subject. In other words, you should know exactly what you want to do and how you want to do it before you ever pick up any tools.
#310279 taking out AR's without opening up blaster?
Posted by
on 28 January 2012 - 10:04 PM
in
Modifications
This is a very easy and effective way to drill out the AR is less than 5 minutes, don't forget to pull out the AR spring when you think you're done!
Except for the part where it isn't.
If you take apart the turret of the Firefly or Maverick, the ARs will literally fall out from the force of gravity. No drilling required. The Recon displayed in the video supplied by Zumatrix has a different barrel and restrictor system from the Firefly in question. The Recon's restrictors are unified with the rest of the body of the plungertube/chamber via adhesive. The AR is part of the dynamic barrel/plunger system. It will not rotate if a torque, (in this case, from the drill,) is applied.
The Firefly turret can be opened up with relative ease. Once this happens, take out the spring and dynamic restrictor from the assembly. Cut off the posts from the housing too, if you like. Because these ARs are not as secure in their orientation as those of the Recon, they may rotate when the drill is used, thus spinning with the brass tube rather than being cut/melted away.
That is my advice. Take it if you wish, but the final decsion is obviously yours to make.
#310297 Longstrike OMW unleased 1 hand priming
Posted by
on 29 January 2012 - 11:10 AM
in
Modifications
If you have the resources, time, and experience, you could mill your own aluminum or steel bolt, keeping the original chamber and barrel assembly. The plastic is deforming, so if you change your bolt material, this should sovle your problem. If your brother is small in size, perhaps you could machine something that primes from one priming handle, keeping the priming mechanism in the same location. It would take some shell modification as well.
#310785 Rear Loading CPVC Rogue Turret
Posted by
on 06 February 2012 - 12:59 PM
in
Modifications
Seems functionally similar to SgNerf's turret.
Still I suppose this is easier for those with more limited resources, though it pains me knowing you sacrificed a Rogue for this.
Still I suppose this is easier for those with more limited resources, though it pains me knowing you sacrificed a Rogue for this.
#310794 Effective Removable Suppressor
Posted by
on 06 February 2012 - 03:08 PM
in
Modifications
Incredible design. Suppressors in general are fascinating, and the redirection of the airflow works well from what you are describing. I do have a question for you.
What affect would this attachment have when used in tandem with an RSCB or hopper system? Both of these systems have a greater amount of deadspace as ammunition is depleted, would the deadspace created in the jacket of the suppressor further reduce range? Also, would this suppressor be less effective with one of these clip attachments because of that increased deadspace and unshielded hopper/RSCB ammo tubes?
@iamthatcat thanks for the fast response. Definitely trying this once i get some freetime.
What affect would this attachment have when used in tandem with an RSCB or hopper system? Both of these systems have a greater amount of deadspace as ammunition is depleted, would the deadspace created in the jacket of the suppressor further reduce range? Also, would this suppressor be less effective with one of these clip attachments because of that increased deadspace and unshielded hopper/RSCB ammo tubes?
@iamthatcat thanks for the fast response. Definitely trying this once i get some freetime.
#310907 NiteShot Help
Posted by
on 08 February 2012 - 12:01 PM
in
Modifications
There are two things you can do. Improve the seal between the O-ring and the inside of the PT with a combination of teflon tape (underneath the O-ring to increase it's diameter) and silicon grease (only silicon grease) for sealing around the contact surfaces between said O-ring and PT.
White Lithium grease, in my experience, is also safe for such lubrication purposes. A Double O-ring mod may also help ranges along with wrapping plumber's tape around the plungerhead.
Also, what did you use to secure the plunger tube to the barrel? Make sure that is air tight as well. This happened to me on a modified Nitefinder early in my modding days. My solution was to drench the thing in JB Kwik to seal off any possible airleaks. Plumber's Goop should also work, if it's available to you. The problem may lie more in this connection and less on the inner workings of the plunger.
On an unrelated note, it would be a good idea to pad the plungerhead as well. BBB arrows are a favorite material of mine to use for such purposes.
#310912 NiteShot Help
Posted by
on 08 February 2012 - 01:40 PM
in
Modifications
I like to pad my blasters with the anti-slip pads that you put under chair legs and such. I find that BBB arrow foam compresses to easily.
The BBB foam seems to work for me. That's a very good idea, though. Next time I'm in home depot I'll invest in a pack.
#310943 How to get idiots to play Nerf?
Posted by
on 08 February 2012 - 11:16 PM
in
General Nerf
Aside from showing them a super powered blaster, homemade or otherwise, there isn't too much you can do. Perhaps bring a few high performance blasters to a planned meeting place and have a shoot 'em up.
You could also not give a fuck.
I am currently a student of engineering, and even in a technical environment such as my university, there is limited interest in these blasters, and even less so with my friends from home. Keep doing what you're doing until you lose interest and don't worry about what your friends think too much. If your Nerfing habits come up, treat it like any other past time. Be proud of it.
You could also not give a fuck.
I am currently a student of engineering, and even in a technical environment such as my university, there is limited interest in these blasters, and even less so with my friends from home. Keep doing what you're doing until you lose interest and don't worry about what your friends think too much. If your Nerfing habits come up, treat it like any other past time. Be proud of it.
#310976 How to get idiots to play Nerf?
Posted by
on 09 February 2012 - 10:02 PM
in
General Nerf
Get 3/4 plywood.
Have them shoot at it at about 10 feet with their strongest airsoft springers, and does virtualy nothing to it.
You Shoot at it with Pumpsnap or equal or greater power house.
They play nerf now.
????????
Profit.
Actually, this is an incredible idea. Just remember to wear eye protection when doing anything like this. The risk isn't worth the carelessness.
#311403 longshot help needed
Posted by
on 17 February 2012 - 10:01 PM
in
Modifications
Search either Mcmaster-carr or hardware stores for compression springs. They should be of a similar diameter to the original LS spring to prevent your original problem from recurring
#311505 Aerodynamics of Dart Heads
Posted by
on 19 February 2012 - 07:08 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Is this a computer program?
What software is this? And why do the darts appear as though they were drawn in MS paint?
#311506 Stampede Problem
Posted by
on 19 February 2012 - 07:19 PM
in
Modifications
When the you fire the Stampede, the bolt advances and presses down on the switch leading to the main motor. This is why you can tap the trigger and release it before the dart has left the chamber; it's a means of preventing double feeding and boosting reliability in it's stock form. It is also the main reason for runaways when the voltage is increased.
In your case, the trustfires only have enough strength to advance the bolt/plunger assembly partway forward. The switch to the motor is still depressed by this assembly, and will fire once adequate power is supplied, (in this case from the original batteries.) That's what's happening mechanically.
I don't have a terrible amount of experience with rechargeables, but on a more general level, compare the voltages and curent output of the two battery types, and some simple calculations can get you an approximate value for the power output from the trustfires vs the original batteries. Check that you have wired them correctly, and remember that "voltage" is only part of the equation.
In your case, the trustfires only have enough strength to advance the bolt/plunger assembly partway forward. The switch to the motor is still depressed by this assembly, and will fire once adequate power is supplied, (in this case from the original batteries.) That's what's happening mechanically.
I don't have a terrible amount of experience with rechargeables, but on a more general level, compare the voltages and curent output of the two battery types, and some simple calculations can get you an approximate value for the power output from the trustfires vs the original batteries. Check that you have wired them correctly, and remember that "voltage" is only part of the equation.
