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CS-70 Marauder

(Pronounced Mo'Raider)

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#1 taerKitty

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 02:23 PM

To start with, this isn't my idea. I'm basing it off CygnusRising's original CS-70 Marauder.

Secondly, here's what you'll be building:

Posted Image


It's an over-and-under Raider. Very simple. The point of this writeup is to show a few small pitfalls and design nuances.

===

Tools:

- Hacksaw

- File or power sander

- Small Philips screwdriver

- Power drill

- Razor blade

===

Materials:

- Electrical tape

- Epoxy

- Epoxy putty (optional, read on)

- Hot glue

- Self-adhesive felt

- 3 x narrow zip ties

- rubber bands

- 2 x plates 4-1/4" x 5-1/4"

- 16 x #6 nuts

- 16 x screws or 8 x 3" #6 bolts (and an additional 8 x #6 nuts)

- A white kitchen garbage bag

- A Ziploc bag

===

To start with, hacksaw the handle off the priming ... well, handle.

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===

Open the Raiders. (Duh!)

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A few tips here:

- I had the first one go SPROING! all over the place. The second one I opened in a white garbage bag. Much better.

- The front has two deep pegs, so it will take some prying along the track to get the shells spearated.

- To further cut down on the SPROING-age, pry apart the back a mm or two, then guide the spring out. Even unprimed, it's precompressed.

- You can lose the white part and the orange tactical rail accessory catches.

===

(Not shown) Remove the guts. Stow the small parts in Ziploc bag, and the larger ones in the garbage bag.

===

Saw off the pistol grip and trigger guard

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You can do it along the contours of the blaster like I did, which will REMOVE THE TRIGGER TRACK, or you can saw it off a little lower on the handle which will be less aesthetically pleasing.

While my motto is indeed "Fugly is a feature," this will be used by someone else, so I'd like to make it purty. If you cut lower on the handle, you won't need the e-putty. See Cygnus' original Maurader for where to cut.

==

File down the bumps along the tactical rails.

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Yes, there are a lot of them (36 pair, thank you for asking), but it's better to have the tops flat to maximize the surface area for the epoxy.

This is where a power sander is good. Or, lacking that, ibuprofen for your aching elbow the next day.

==

Lay electrical tape along the tops of two shell halves

Specifically, I am taping the left *full* (lower) shell and the right *chopped* (upper) shell. These shells will NOT be fused, hence the tape.

The end result will be that the Siamese shell will contain the full lower blaster's right shell joined to the chopped upper blaster's left shell.

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===

Reassemble the shells, tucking the tape between them

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Drop a screw in each blaster to hold the halves together
===

Epoxy the two halves together

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Use rubber bands to hold them together. Ignore the twisted wire - it wasn't sufficient by itself.

==

Separate shells and remove electrical tape

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Actually, this only shows the separated shells, but I'm sure you can pull e-tape free w/o a guide. :)

===

(These steps are because I cut the trigger guide rails off with the rest of the handle. If you left more of the handle in place, you will have to wing it.)

===

Saw the trigger ramp off

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===

Insulate the SlamFire bar

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Good old electrical tape to the rescue. There's a small ridge on the underside of the SlamFire bar (SFb). Not seen under the tape is some folded paper to occupy the space that ridge will travel into when the SFb is pulled forward by the priming handle.

===

Epoxy the trigger ramp to the guide tab

Posted Image


Note: it's critical the SFb is all the way to the rear for these steps.

There's no way that will hold up by itself...

===

Epoxy putty to support the trigger ramp and guide tab

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==

That's the end of the "I sawed the handle off" steps.

===

Cover the mid-rail gap and create dams for under the upper blaster's magazine well

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There's a lot of epoxy holding the two shell halves together, but it still flexes more than I'd like. Here, we've just laid a strip of tape over the gap between the two tactical rails, then we shove a few strips of e-tape in the valley.

===

Fill valley with hot glue

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Let's use everyone's favourite non-structural filler. Before Bob gets a chance to mouth off, here goes:

- That's dual-temp glue, which means it's not structural. I said that already.

- If you Nerf where it gets over 100 degrees, this won't hold. Then again, if you Nerf when it's 100+ degrees, you won't see me on the field.

===

(Not shown) do whatever performance mods you want to the internals: AR removal, bleed hole plugging, etc.

===

Wait for epoxy putty to cure, hot glue to set, and reassemble

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===

Use self-adhesive felt to seal the gaps in the upper blaster (and cover the trigger ramp and SlamFire bar)

Posted Image



You can use styrene, Floam, hot glue, or Bondo for all I care. Or skip this part. As I said before, I wanted this to look purty.

To allow the blaster to be opened again, I used the razor to cut the felt down the middle.

===

Zip tie the blasters together

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I don't trust the epoxy, even with the hot glue wedge. Belt-and-suspenders, I say. Zip ties are cheap, broken blasters are ... fail.

===

(To be done) Join the priming handles

DarthFreyr is cutting me the site plates to connect the two priming handles, but here's how they'll go:

You can either screw the plates into the priming handles, or pass a bolt through them. It looks that a 3" bolt will be long enough, and I estimate #6 will be narrow enough. Also, I'm planning to put 4 bolts through it per handle, hence the materials count above.

However, the four grey circles on each side of the 'barrel' are wider than the priming handle. I plan to use #6 bolts as 'standoffs'for the plates so they'll clear those dots.

===

Thoughts:

- No, I haven't tested it in the field. I'm still waiting on the plates, yo.

- Yes, this thing is heavy. The kid I'm building it for may not like it because it's so bulky.

- The top blaster is SlamFire-only. The bottom one is triggered. That means, if your muscle memory is good enough, you can get off 70 separate shots: handle back and forth to fire one, then trigger-fire the second.

- I haven't done any performance mods on it aside from AR removal. (I should plug the bleed holes, now that I think of it...) If I were to powerstock it, I'd only do the bottom one - I'd worry about torque and power transfer on the upper one.

- I lied, actually. The upper one was my first Raider, and it has the barrel sawed down to 2". The entire fore-end is mostly hollowed out, as is the front bushing

Posted Image


  • 0
Fugly is a feature.

#2 soloz1

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 02:45 PM

Bring it to a war.... in Hawaii.
  • 0

...Man, if I lived on Oahu, I would've dropped in on Pineapple by now. On Molokai. Via Kayak. ...Fuck, we're depending on you guys to defend us from 3DBBQ, get your shit together already.


#3 Aeromech

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 03:13 PM

Very nice work. Even if it's not necessarily "practical" it certainly looks like a fun blaster. Good job on the write up.
  • 0
Watch my shitty videos

This is so ghetto but so awesome.


#4 Wickbuddy

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 07:39 PM

- If you Nerf where it gets over 100 degrees, this won't hold. Then again, if you Nerf when it's 100+ degrees, you won't see me on the field.


cough...cough orlando
really it was indoors, but it felt like 100 degrees outside.

Edited by Wickbuddy, 06 October 2011 - 07:39 PM.

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Check me out on Youtube

#5 evilbunnyo

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 08:00 PM

God taer this thing scares me. The fact that it could in theory slam fire 70 darts in my face is a bit terrifying. Nice mod though very clean and highly efficient even though it will eat darts alive
  • 0
Silence is golden but duct tape is silver

#6 Swiftone1990

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 09:05 PM

Have you thought about using polycarb on aluminum plates on the sides to hold the shells together?
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I am not retreating, I am advancing in a different direction

#7 Darksircam

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 09:44 PM

Scary.

Instead of using sandpaper to grind down the rail ridges, a flat file works a lot better. I use it for smoothing out burrs, and actually used a needle file to grind out a slot for my Raiderpistol.

Also, zip ties are awesome. Epoxy or a flexible adhesive like GOOP holds it together so it doesn't jiggle, while zip ties keep the parts together enough so that the adhesive doesn't snap.
  • 0
Travel Cost to TRU = $2. Eliminator pack = $15. Momentum testing = 2 lost darts. Outranging Recons with your mini pistol = priceless.

#8 arfink

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 08:25 PM

A real monster, this. I like it. :)
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#9 taerKitty

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 08:51 PM

@soloz1 - What did I say about Nerfing when it's 100 degrees? :)

@Aeromech - Thanks. I try to write my write-ups as clear and 'professional' as possible (with a dash of humour thrown in).

@Wick - Do you know who was the black-haired youngster at our wars? He rocked with an AT-18. I dunno if this is too heavy for him or not, but it'll be great if he could use it.

@evilbunnyo - Yes, this thing has the same problem that the RF20 has - it's great fun for a short while, then you spend a buttload of time picking up all those $&#*ing darts!

@Swiftone1990 - Nah, it's just going to be plain polycarb. I don't see what having aluminum in the mix will gain me. I do have some aluminum strips, but I'm using those for Atomic Splats

@Darksircam - I use a flat file as well. I have a bunch of hand files, and use them regularly. Got a link to your Raiderpistol? Was it the olive drab one with the white US Army star on it?

@arfink - Much thanks!
  • 0
Fugly is a feature.

#10 SonReeceSonJensen

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 09:26 PM

How soon till a Muraderx2 CS-140?
  • 0
The Difference:
-Guns shoot bullets that kill people
-Blasters shoot darts that tag people

I do not play with guns.

#11 nisaburo

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 09:55 PM

Love it, Kitty. Are you proving to me that you can make pretty lookin' stuff too? The only thing I could possibly suggest is to try and internalize the top gun priming situation. Wish I didn't have to wait until next summer to see this thing. Absolutely love it.
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#12 Dayko

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Posted 08 October 2011 - 04:41 AM

Good god, Taer. You have created a monster! I cannot wait to see this in action.
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< One foot in death...The other in life. >
 


#13 soloz1

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Posted 08 October 2011 - 12:45 PM

As for priming, do you have to prime both handles or did I miss something?


@soloz1 - What did I say about Nerfing when it's 100 degrees? :)
.....

Its mid 70's right now.
  • 0

...Man, if I lived on Oahu, I would've dropped in on Pineapple by now. On Molokai. Via Kayak. ...Fuck, we're depending on you guys to defend us from 3DBBQ, get your shit together already.


#14 agc2k

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Posted 08 October 2011 - 12:49 PM

Awesome Mod!
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#15 taerKitty

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Posted 08 October 2011 - 02:44 PM

@SonReeceSonJensen - Damn, that'll need a tripod. I'm going to bring a scale in to see how much this puppy weighs, now that you have me thinking.

@nisaburo - No, this was made for that MadDawdRusher (forgot his name) to try out, so I wanted it to look presentable. If you want to come across Lake W someday, we could try it out. ;)

@dayko - Yanno, if you want to see it sooner, just ... host another war in 2011. ;)

@soloz1 - I still need to add the side plates to the priming handles. The lower one will be joined to the upper one, so the same racking action will prime both.

@agc2k - Much thanks!
  • 0
Fugly is a feature.

#16 hamoidar

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Posted 05 November 2011 - 09:34 AM

Scary.

Instead of using sandpaper to grind down the rail ridges, a flat file works a lot better. I use it for smoothing out burrs, and actually used a needle file to grind out a slot for my Raiderpistol.

Also, zip ties are awesome. Epoxy or a flexible adhesive like GOOP holds it together so it doesn't jiggle, while zip ties keep the parts together enough so that the adhesive doesn't snap.

Umm, what about a dremel for the rail?

Edited by hamoidar, 05 November 2011 - 09:35 AM.

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#17 KitAdrian

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Posted 05 November 2011 - 11:48 AM

Umm, what about a dremel for the rail?


You could, but grinding that much with a dremel, you're bound to cause some divots, unless you have a SUPER steady hand. Also, you will make a lot of melting plastic fumes. I'd stand by a file for this.
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#18 taerKitty

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Posted 05 November 2011 - 05:55 PM

I have a Dremel and loathe using it. It may be a matter of practice, but I think Kit's right - without a steady hand, it's just asking for trouble. If I'm going to make another one, I'll get one of those vibrators oscillating tools.

I also promised a weight, so I'm glad to have a chance to add that part in. This thing weighs 4.5 lbs, which is pretty heavy for a blaster, though very light for a real longarm.

Edited by taerKitty, 05 November 2011 - 05:58 PM.

  • 0
Fugly is a feature.

#19 jakejagan

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Posted 05 November 2011 - 06:42 PM

I have a Dremel and loathe using it. It may be a matter of practice, but I think Kit's right - without a steady hand, it's just asking for trouble.


That's why you slow the speed down and take your time removing the plastic.
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00:38 jakejagan I hear you guys still bring up the "gangsta shot"
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