I recommend Battlefield 1942 (the original). It was a great game, still is, although is a bit dated. If you can find it, I would strongly recommend buying it. I last saw it a few months ago bundled with both the expansion packs and BF:vietnam for $20 (USD). Plus, there are so many mods and custom maps, you'll be endlessly entertained.
Poke around the files here

I don't honestly know. Check Amazon or ebay. The last one I saw was about a year and a half ago. I've never seen any in any main stores, like target, walmart, or TRU. I do believe that is the general consensus.

Common sense tells me that unless you are a legitimate business, no vendor will sell to you for anything less than store price.

I could be wrong, but I don't think it matters if you are non-profit or not. You're still not a business.

Well I think that if, say you're using a real douche bag rifle, or it can be the Longshot, whatever. If you're left handed, you would look through the scope with your left eye wiht your right eye closed, right? And if you are right, vice versa.
There you are, your dominant eye!

No. It's much easier for me to close my left eyelid when aiming, and I'm left handed. I mean I can close my right I alone, but it's just easier to close the left.


I'm left-handed, but I shoot all guns right-handed. Although, oddly enough, I use the wii remote in my left hand, along with any thing that has to do with sports or writing. I do feel more comfortable using a hockey stick in my right hand, but that's just how I learned as a kid....I suck, though, and couldn't do well with a stick in either hand.

Granted I'm also astigmatic as hell, and can't see shit past a few feet in front of my face.

This dominant hand/eye shit is confusing as hell. Would it not be easier to just ask what hand we jack off with?

it works when you need too make a reflex shot in close quarters.

Am I the only one who found this incredibly stupid?

Seriously when I need to take a "reflex shot" in "close quarters", I kick the poor man in the ballsack and then shoot him. Sometimes I just skip the part about shooting him and get right into the ball kicking.

Or is your aim that bad because you sit around all day masturbating to a picture of the halo 3 game case while drinking monster and making up words do describe your ineptitude at aiming guns that aren't real?

Why not just buy a pump (I always use a foot pump) with a guage built in?

It may sound simple, but it works. I may be misunderstanding the purpose a bit, but as long as you are going to fill it via a tire valve, I see no problems arising.

durability has a big effect as well.

Right, but the lesson is that you shouldn't treat your stuff like shit. Even if it is a $10 children's toy.

I don't mean you should go out and wrap all your guns in foam padding and spend shitloads of money on hard cases and take an out insurance policy, but don't treat you stuff like a monkey treats it's own poo.

Everything can break. Some things are a little more prone to breakage than others. But if you treat your things like, I don't know, a pocket knife collection, you reduce the chances of that breakage.

Okay, it's a ammo HOLDER.

No. It's a box with a string attached. Sure it could be used to hold ammo, but why not just use pockets. Assuming you have pants or shorts, you don't need to go out and by a disposable camera just for the purpose of holding nerf darts in the box it comes in.

I will ALWAYS use it because otherwise I would be shot while running for ammo and generally I'd play worse.

Well If you have "teh-uber-superz-ammo-box-on-a-string", why would you need to run for ammo?
</sarcasm>





Seriously, though, if you left the cover on, and attached it to a gun, this may have some use. Ammo holders on guns are useful when they work, and this seems better than my "glued on CPVC or brass scraps" technique. Plus, it doesn't constrict darts and screw with their fit in barrels. (Anybody who's left darts in a Maverick/Firefly can back me up.)

I'm 11 years old!

Bye Bye!

--------------

Anyway, I have

2 Lanard Sonic bazookas
1 big blast
1 NF
1 TTG with integrated AT2K
1 Switch shots ultra
1 BBB
1 Maverick
1 Magstrike
1 working DTG
A few SSPB's
A non working LS
1 Titan

But I only use the BBB and switch shots. Eventually the NF will be thrown in there with those 2, but just not yet. I need to work on the holster. Sometimes the TTG integration gets in there, but it's a little akward to use.

Maybe they'll do an N-Strike based game, like the DVD.

Let's hope it's NOT too much like the DVD...

What are you talking about? I would love to shoot at my laptop's screen with a giant titan missile. Then, of course, in true American tradition, I would sue hasbro/EA and get shitloads of free nerf guns and money.

Too bad we won't see any "Fuckingpecan" unlocks or PETG barrel upgrades in any possible game.

Yeah... but maybe this will be like Medal of Honor or Battlefield where it is very easy to incorporate a mod into the game.
I'm sure somebody would hear us out and create a "nerfhaven mod team" or something like that to mod the game to our standards.

Hell, we already modify real nerf guns, why not modify digital nerf guns if there is a nerf video game.

Then, of course, Hasbro puts warnings on guns for a reason. They may not allow a mod like that when they do not approve of it as a company.

(For your reference: Battlefield files and MoH files)

I'd also like to note that if EA makes a game, we will be guaranteed to have to download plenty of patches that do seemingly nothing except waste time and are around 500 MBs. Maybe that's only if they partner with DICE, though.



Wait a minute. What if this isn't a PC game? EA has been known to produce console games as well as computer games. This might be awsome on the wii, if they set up the controls properly.
I can see it now: nerf wars for the non-warry types! Now you don't have to leave the house to have a huge fucking nerf war!

If you've left the darts in your FF for more than a week, they will definitely suck. Just get some new darts and it will be fine.

The same thing happens to all new guns that have a slightly smaller barrel ID toward the back of the barrel (maverick, firefly, NF, etc.) If you leave the darts in there for too long, they will get loose in the barrels and will not fire.

Just use a small nail. Try to find one about the size of the metal rod, and a little longer.

Nail the one end through the end that the plastic broke and through the other side. You may want to then cut the pointy end off (or grind it off).

People who realize this and are more careful about describing our hobby are more likely to earn our hobby/sport a more positive look under social light, rather than trash it like, for example, paintball enthusiasts who brag about kills and their shooting where people will look at their sport as violent and terrible rather than an enjoyable and teamwork-oriented.

Then, I ask you: why do some of us keep record of our "kills and deaths"? Why do we record our "killings" and "warring" on video and share them all over the internet?

Need I remind you that a rose by any other name would smell as sweet?

No matter what you call it, a nerf war is still a bunch of people using modified foam-shooting toy guns to shoot at each other with darts made of foam.

The point is that we are still using nerf guns that inflict little damage.

As we all (should) know:

Nerf guns and real guns are way different. Nerf does not kill, maim, and damage property

My question is, then, why do we have to use less "dangerous-sounding" synonyms for the same thing?

I believe that it's to please the overly-lawsuit-happy American psycho parents who blame their children's terrible behavior on everything but their lack of parenting skills. Grand theft auto, manhunt, other violent video games and movies come to mind.

The point is: it still doesn't matter. We still shoot foam darts out of sometimes modified (or homemade) nerf guns. They are not real guns. They do not shoot bullets that are made with the intent to maim or hurt. Nerf darts are made for fun, not serious psyical harm.

That's why I say:

Call it whatever the hell you want to. It doesn't matter. We still shoot nerf darts (made of foam) out of nerf guns. Paint your guns whatever the hell color you want to. They still don't inflict serious damage to people, animals, or property. (Except for the people who do so intentionally.) Call our nerf wars whatever your heart desires. They still don't change what we do. We still shoot nerf darts out of nerf guns.



To further elaborate:

I called it ammo for my nerf guns and immidiately a teacher was breathing down my neck for having weapons. I explained that it was for nerf. Like the toys and that its not real.

Exactly my point. No matter what we call it, it is still nerf. Whether you give it hardcore "violent" terminology
or beat-around-the-bush "child's-play" terminology, it is still nerf. Don't get me wrong, in these situations, use the non-violent terminology.


As you read this, keep in mind what nerf is. Nerf darts are not bullets. They do not (for our purposes) inflict serious damage. They are made to give kids a non-violent alternative to shooting things and becoming violent.

In closing: (and I feel as though this is getting redundant)
Call it whatever you want. Nerf darts are still not going to kill people.
Call nerf blasters "guns", and guess what? They still don't kill people.
Call nerf darts "bullets" or "ammo", and guess what? They still don't kill people.
Paint your nerf guns and make them look like realistic guns, and guess what? They still don't kill people.
-----------

Don't get me wrong. I know what guns can and will be used for . I am not one of those "ban guns they are bad" people. Let's not discuss that here, though. If you must, PM me.

I think you're all forgetting (or never knew in the first place, which seems more likely) that the RF20 does not have a tank. It uses a bladder.

I would keep your bladders separate, though, and use 4 separate pumps. (one for each bladder)

The biggest reason for a sidearm isn't in case your primary breaks, it's in case you get ambushed or need another shot while your primary is empty or you are reloading.

I'm not saying you're wrong, but everybody's different. We're both right. There is more than 1 reason for using a sidearm.

You think random N3rfSn1p3rBoi1994 has the ability to come up with the same mods as Captain Slug, Fallen Angel, Carbon, oompa, etc etc? There's nothing that they use that you can't buy online and get shipped to your door anywhere in the world.

Aside from your major contradiction there, I should have worded myself better. I meant that anybody can do just about any mod, but they might be limited by the tools/materials they have. I agree, though that not everybody can come up with a mod.

Alex said "Or ar the greater part of youguys so good at moding that you can just mod an auto gun and be done with it?"

We can only mod the guns so much. I know that larp =/= nerf. Obviously, most nerfers know that autos aren't the guns with the best ranges. However, larping is (apparently) done at much closer ranges than your typical outdoor nerf war. Therefore a low-range auto might be perfect for a "larping" (I don't know the terminology) whereas it might not be suited for the long-range combat that nerf is (in my eyes) evolving into.

It's hard to put words to what I meant. Put it this way: If you put a nerfer with a well modded automatic gun in a larp environment, he might shine, where in a nerf environment, he would not do as well without another gun.
In other words, if Alex asked, "Or ar the greater part of youguys so good at moding that you can just mod an auto gun and be done with it?" I would have to say that if we larped, then yes, we could just be done with it and use it very effectively. But if we nerfed, I doubt it.

I think you're confused. That's a very insulting caricature of LARPing, and nowhere in his posts did he imply your average nerf war = LARP

I know. That's what I was aiming for.

-----------------------------
Don't get me wrong. I know autos have their place in nerf. But today's nerfers want longer ranges. We can only push automatic nerf guns so far. Other guns will give you farther ranges.

About a week ago I bought 4 Mavericks because I was just sure they were "wonderful"

Congratulations. You have oficially qualified your self as a McDouchepants.

Do many people even use the NF in wars? Or ar the greater part of youguys so good at moding that you can just mod an auto gun and be done with it?

Everybody's different. Some people use a NF as a sidearm. A sidearm is a gun that is either used to contrast your primary or to use instead of your primary in the event that is breaks/does not perform as you hoped. Some people also dual-weild two sidearms as opposed to a primary-sidearm system.

It is common knowledge that autos do not get the best ranges. Nobody is "teh uber-super-modder-guy". We are all limited by the materials at hand. Some people are "better" modders because they have more materials at their disposal. Creativity also factors in, but most people are limited by either money or materials at hand.



I think you're a little confused. A typical Nerf war does not include people running around in anime-esque costumes and arguing about their character's skill points and defence ratings while trying to emulate their favorite Pokemon monster.

Watch some nerf war footage and you will see the difference.

No.

It's just another scapegoat for parents who can't fess up and admit that they do not deserve to be parents or are not decent parents.

Something tells me these parents are the same ones who let their kids run around unattended in restaurants and stores.

If I did that, my ass would be slapped 7 ways from sunday.

I would send these bastards to a poor, 3rd world Asian country (north Vietnam, maybe) and force them to rase a shitload of kids without any electrical aid.


Then I would deny them the right to come back to America.


Cruel: yes.

Deserved: most definitely.

I still can't believe somebody actually painted a nerf gun pink and then had the audacity to be-dazzle it.

Bags, maybe. But anybody else, hell no.

Why don't we just put how long the mod took us to do (in minutes)?

Sure some people are slower than others, but obviously doing a first-time LS mod would take longer than a simple NF mod.

I would like to add that time is assuming you don't have to go out and get a certain peice or material. I mean the time it actually takes to go from the start to the finished product.

9) MOST IMPORTANTLY DO NOT PISS OFF THE ADMINS. They devote their time, which could most likely be better spent than banning morons.

I would like to add that while you shouldn't piss the admins off, you don't have to kiss ass either.

I'd also like to add that in arguments, always spell things correctly. And definitely know what you are talking about. Just about everybody can see when you are trying to bull shit around.

Here's my contribution to the latest "small arms" mods.
The Hidden Shot.
Are you tired of mods that don't leave you to but your own spin on them? Well, this will give you a little room for originality.
Materials needed:

• Hidden shot
• 17/32" or 9/16" brass
• crayola marker
• PETG
• 2.5-3" CPVC
• electrical tape
• saw/dremel
• needlenose pliers
• sander

Time needed: 5-10 mins
Well, this mod is very simple, and that's all you need to know.
Here is the gun before you do anything.

Image used with permission from wldworld, who happened to sell me that exact HS.
Pre-barrel Prep
Cut your stock barrel down to 2". Don't worry about cutting the pole, you'll get that out anyway.

Now take your pliers and rip out the pole in the barrel. You want to rip out very close to all of it, but you want to see a little bit of orange left when you are done.
Here is a reference:


Brass barreled
This is what I use.
Cut 3" of brass in a size of your choice. Use the pliers to flare out both ends of the barrel, to prevent dart slicing. Wrap in elctrical tape until it is snug in the stock barrel. Just for shits and giggles, I wrapped the end in e-tape and mashed the end of the stock barrel on there. I think it looks good, and by god you better agree with me.
Finished pic:


Marker barreled
This isn't the greatest barrel material, but if you want to use a crayola or Rose-art marker, you can.
Cut your marker like so and hollow out the insides. Wrap it a few times (2 or 3) in e-tape and wiggle it into your stock barrel.


CPVC barreled
This is a little harder than the rest, but it's worth it.
Cut about 3" of 1/2" CPVC. Use your sander to sand down 1" of the end of the CPVC until it is snug in the stock barrel. This will be the end that you will stick in the stock barrel. BE CAREFUL! If you don't sand off enough, you will crack the stock barrel if you try to cram it in there.
Here is a pic for you to go by:


PETG barreled
No, I don't have any PETG, but you would follow the same procedure as the marker barrel. I would use 3.5" of PETG, but you may want it a little longer or shorter than that.

Congrats, you're done.
Here is a pic of my hidden shot with all 3 (hopefully 4 someday) of the barrels.

And just because somebody may be wondering how it "folds up", here is a pic if the HS with a brass barrel, in its "folded up" form.

Ranges:
CPVC: 30ft.
brass: 35ft.
Crayola: 20ish ft.

Closing thoughts:
It's a pocket weapon. Get over it. It's not meant to be "teh uber 120ft NF smg". It's meant to be a last resort. It's small (slightly larger than a SSPB, when folded), but not incredibly accurate. That's because the barrel rotates. It's a little hard to aim, but once you get used to it, it's not that bad.

I'm not going to full-on bash this just yet, but I do have to point something out.

By adapting it to your dart length and OD it will be unjammable.

You do realize that that is very close to being impossible, right?

Dart length always varies. Even if you cut them mechanically (how?) they will still vary. Foam stretches and compresses depending on many factors, such as: where they are stored, what temp. they are stored at, what they are stored in, how they are used/handled, etc.

Also, what nerfer does not pick up other nerfers' darts and use them? (at least for the purpose of firing them back)
You may fire 1.5" darts, I may fire 1.75" darts, somebody else may fire 1.25" darts. If you choose to fire someone else's darts (esp. if they are longer than yours, even by a fraction of an inch) your breech will either jam, clip the darts, or fail to some extent. Shorter darts will most likely wiggle around enough to fall down vertically.

Additionally, dart OD varies dart-to-dart. Batches of FBR have always been know to vary fractionally even within the same package. Dart OD will expand and contract just like length will. If your leave 2 seemingly identical darts in 2 different barrel materials (loose fitting copper/brass or tight-fitting CPVC), you will have 2 noticeably different darts after a period of time (even as short a period of 12 hours).


Just my


And I would put wire at the end of the breech as opposed to that big AR dealio.

For you linking pleasure...

And this would be the tek 6, not the tek 10.

Another link
That would be the tek 10.


The darts don't look like suction cup darts, they look like they have hard, flat tips (like the Lightstorm bullets, if I remember right.)

Sometimes, I just look around Thinkgeek for gift ideas.
I might get the meh. shirt and definately going to get the I void warranties shirt.
I also really want to get the 8-bit tie.






And just because I feel like being really obvious, why don't you ask for NERF guns. I mean you are on nerfhaven, after all.

No, that's the end that you put the barrel on. The slidey-over part is not shown (it screws off).
In the second picture, the end that has the black e-tape is the part that goes into the gun. In that picture, the crayola would be on the right side.

This pic might better show what I mean:

I this picture, the crayola would be on the left side of the orange dart.

Just pretend the ball valve is the coupler on your gun. The plain, white PVC is the barrel, while the black/gray PVC is the gun.

Well, I guess I should have explained better. One end of the repair coupling is the same OD as a regular peice of 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC. The other end has the same ID as a coupler of the same size.
The one you saw in that picture has about 1.5" of crayola marker jammed into the end.
Here is that pic again for reference:


To set them up, just put a coulper on your gun as you would wiht any coupler mod.

Mark a little bit (1/8" or so) past where the closed position is:

Cut the fitting with your dremel/saw as shown:

The end with the e-tape is the end that goes into the coupler.
Then just put the breech into the coupler and away you go.

I had the idea to nest some brass (9/16") into some PVC and nest it a little bit back, so that about 1" or so is in the breech. (as it is with the crayola)
The only problem with that is that the exit of the breech (where marker is nested) has a slightly smaller IDthan regular pipe. I just sanded it down a bit. That slightly smaller ID would be perfect to nest brass into, though, as you wouldn't have to wrap it in e-tape.
If you need any thing else, just ask.

You know, I got one of those as a gift for x-mas, and I have still haven't got the damn thing working on my computer. It just freezes up every time I try to use it.

I'm all alone here in Palos heights.

Something tells me this is going to turn into a Sox/flubs debate, but that's expected.

You're going to want to seal that breech with something. If that's CPVC, and I believe it is, try to find a large size brass tubing or bore out some Sch 40 PVC with a 11/16 drill bit.
If that's PVC, use one of those Qwik fix repair couplings. Cut it out like so:

You could nest a section of brass into the end there and get fairly decent results.

And don't forget to reinforce the catch and pluger shaft! You don't want anything flying out because of that new spring.

Don't forget:

KBarker's clipped NF

Actually, I wouldn't put more than 4 pennies, as apparently this can snap the metal cocking rod on your cocking slider.

Though Frost Vectron just posted something about metal fence brackets (or braces I don't remember) and steel rods being used to make an indestructable slider.

Here it is.

You can also put a nail in where the old metal bar was, but from what I have read, that will eventually break off as well.

Wouldn't that require foam too? O.o
So technically I guess you Can't glue foam to a plunger with an exacto-knife and superglue... w.o any foam to begin with.

Stop being a rambunctious, self-contradictory dickhead. You said:

when I 1st started, the only tools I had was an Exacto-Knife, a philips screwdriver, and Krazy Glue

By definition, a "tool" is: (from the The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition
Copyright © 2006 by Houghton Mifflin Company)

1. A device, such as a saw, used to perform or facilitate manual or mechanical work.
2.
a. A machine, such as a lathe, used to cut and shape machine parts or other objects.
b. The cutting part of such a machine.
c. A bookbinder's hand stamp.
d. A design impressed on a book cover by such a stamp.

Foam is not a tool. It does not "perform or facilitate manual or mechanical work." Foam is a materal, which, by definition, is "The substance or substances out of which a thing is or can be made. "

Moving on:

That's rich.
What's next? Using C4 to blow the pump caps off you air guns?
I would say shooting shotgun shells out of titans, but that's already been done.

That was a joke. I was attempting to be funny in a sarcastic manner. If you did not think that was funny, I don't really give a rat's ass.

Rather then be a sarcastic "chitinous",

Really? I didn't know "a nitrogen-containing polysaccharide that forms a semitransparent horny substance and is a principal constituent of the exoskeleton, or outer covering, of insects, crustaceans, and arachnids." could be sarcastic. Also, I believe you need a noun there, after the adjectives "sarcastic" and "chitinous".

Doo yoo andur-stan da words comin outav mai mouve? O.O

No. I do not. Please type in this wonderful language we (civilized people) call English. If that's too hard, don't even type non-sensical bullshit at all.


GOOD DAY!

ah back to topic, yes you just need to remove those AR's to get a slight increase in distance, be warned since they are taken out, there's nothing now to stop the LOUD BANG whenever you shoot.

Have you never glued foam on the front to the puluger head to stop that noise? Even with an ex-acto knife and super glue, you can do that.

If you lose all your stock darts and decide it's not worth it to buy em for 33 cents each when you can make your own for 5-6 cents each, then open it up and remove the pegs. i'd suggest using a sander attachment to your rotary tool or dremel, w/e to melt your pegs off, if you don't have or can't afford 1, Home Depot has a nice area where you can rent their tools for a very cheap price... that or use an exacto-knife.

You know you can just break most of the peg off by just snapping it like a twig, right?
And if you want to get all of it, just twist it off with a pair of pliers.
Or go the extra mile and snip the small rods holding the peg in with a pair of wire cutters.

melt your pegs off

That's rich.
What's next? Using C4 to blow the pump caps off you air guns?
I would say shooting shotgun shells out of titans, but that's already been done.

Yes, but you won't be able to fire stefans.

Take eveything out except for the orane ring that connects the turret and barrels: then you will see a noticeable difference.

Contrary to n00bs common beliefs, the pin does not hold the dart in, rather, the constriction (smaller barrel ID)
in the back of the barrel does. That is why the back end of your darts will be slightly smaller if you leave them in your maverick for a period of time.

So yes, you will see some range increase, but you will be far better off just taking it out.

well, I've only broken a few, and a majority were junk.

• A tek 6, old version: $6-ish.
• An AT1K: worthless as far as I'm concerned.
• A crossfire: $9.
• 7-8 clicky pens: I don't know $.50? I just take them from banks and stuff. Granted with gas, that's a lot....

However, I have saved:

• A Switch Shots Ultra: It was rotting away (literally) and I converted into a funky 6-shot shotgun perfect for indoor wars. That's worth about $10-15.
• A friend's NF: $6.
• Another friend's Maverick: $10.
• Original TTG: $15

The TTG was mostly the reason I got into modding. I was out of megas, searched, and eventually found this place.
So I see myself up about $20-25.

Tastes kinda like I-can't-believe-I-paid-$2-for-this-shit.


But it's more like pick-your-nose-and-scratch-your-balls-then-wipe-it-on-a-White-Castle-slider-followed-by-eating-it-while-a-monkey-flings-poo-at-you flavor.

I wonder what has a higher approval rating: George Bush or these chips?

Git 'R done!

I'm so siggin' that.

Holy shit, that's reached Hawaii?

Why wouldn't it? It's just a short, catchy phrase that emboodies the blue-collar work ethic.
Piney, from what I know, obviously has a similar ethic. Look at all he does: (both here and in real life) it obvious that he knows how to, well, Git 'R done.



On topic, though, I don't agree with piney. I often duct tape whole guns together just for the hell of it. Call it the Po' man's integration. If it works, it works. I don't give a shit about how plastic, foam shooting children's toys look, as long as it is effective.

I wouldn't, unless it's part of an article or something.

Think of the games.

Why does the Wii have twice the sales of the PS3? because people like the games for it.

I also think that the structure is somewhat different (nunchuk controllers, etc.). I don't think we are comparing Apples to Oranges yet, but I think it is more, well, Apples to Apple Jacks.
Price also plays a big factor.
So does (a little bit, anyway) brand loyalty, which is kinda like the games. It's all what you remember. Do you remember having fun playing mario and duck hunt or frogger, monster rancher, Twisted metal and NHL faceoff '97 (which, by the way, I still play.)
So does the "fun factor". But that is all your opinion. I think people find it entertaining to get off their asses and play their games in a "different" way. But I also believe it's the American way to brag about things your bought.

This always irritates me: I don't think that video quality matters. There's a difference between 1950's "tubes" and CRTs, but when it comes to HD, there are visual qualities that the companies put it screens just to raise the market value becuase it sounds fancier to the average american: Homer Simpson. I'm not saying that HD is worthless, there are visible improvements in quality, but does it matter enough to be more important that the quality of the game?

I completely agree.

But I think that it's the American way to buy a double-ice-dispensing-weather-warning-system-4"-HD-quality-TV-in-the-door-internet-accessible-27-channel-CB radio-receiving-voice-recognizing-turn-by-turn-directional-navigating-Blue-ray-playing-solar-powered-water heating refrigerator with a warning feature that tells you when you are out of beer just to compensate for their abnormally small penis or for the fact that their daddy never hugged them or because thier mommy always liked their brother better than them.

I still prefer to listen baseball or hockey on the radio.
That's why I still play BF:1942, and both star wars battlefront games. I still play NHL faceoff '97, Ace combat and SW: demolition on my PS1, and I still play Metroid 2: Return of Samus on my game boy. I've even been known to bust out the NES and play the original Super Mario Bros. in all it's 8-bit cuddliness.
I don't give a shit about how it looks: it's all about how entertaining it is.

If you want to squeeze more range out of the repair coupling breech, cut down a crayola marker and hammer it in the end.
Here's a few pics so you get the idea:
Cut open breech:

Here's the crayola marker in it's place:

Sorry about the huge pics.
Cut the marker down to 2", and make sure to use a section of marker that doesn't have those ridges inside. (Or just use a Rose-Art marker.) I tried to nest CPVC in there, but the end has a much smaller ID than regular Sch. 40 PVC. You could probably try brass, but I built this long before I knew my ACE hardware sold brass.

I also found that it is better to only put about a 1/2" of your darts into this crayola and let the air push them all the way through. (With CDTS anyway...) That was with a ball valve gun however, so you may want more or less.