Ambience 327's Content
There have been 511 items by Ambience 327 (Search limited from 12-May 97)
#310560 Buzzbee Flintlock
Posted by
on 01 February 2012 - 10:25 PM
in
Modifications
They are quite fun - mostly due to the stylishness and one-handed cocking. I've mentioned this elsewhere, but I love to use my brassed version as an alternative to barrel tapping. It is so low-powered that even a point-blank shot with a slug would only hurt if I shot you in the eye (or if you are five years old). So I keep it loaded and in my pocket, and if a barrel-tap situation arises, or I sneak up behind someone and don't want to maim them with my primary, I just slip it out of my pocket, cock it one-handed, and take them out with a flourish. (And maybe a nice "yaaar" if it is "talk like a pirate day"...
#311135 Buzzbee Flintlock
Posted by
on 13 February 2012 - 10:44 AM
in
Modifications
Thanks for the compliments - coming from a pretty competent modder like yourself, they mean just that much more.
I do love my flintlocks. They won't out-range much of anything, but the style factor alone makes them worth packing, and the one-handed cocking, as you said, just seals the deal.
And on the topic of cell phone pics - I just get tired of everyone blaming their lazy, poorly-lit, shaky-cam photos on the device when today's cell phones are capable of much better photos than my first digital camera from 10 years ago.
I do love my flintlocks. They won't out-range much of anything, but the style factor alone makes them worth packing, and the one-handed cocking, as you said, just seals the deal.
And on the topic of cell phone pics - I just get tired of everyone blaming their lazy, poorly-lit, shaky-cam photos on the device when today's cell phones are capable of much better photos than my first digital camera from 10 years ago.
#172526 Vulcan Ammo Box Mod
Posted by
on 26 August 2008 - 10:44 AM
in
Modifications
Obviously he had to choke down both boxes of cereal before he could start cutting up the boxes. 
#169371 How Do I Make Cddts?
Posted by
on 15 August 2008 - 08:48 AM
in
Modifications
They are also a good way to improve all the stock darts you get with your Nerf guns if you never plan on using them as stock darts. (Some of us do, for various reasons. Where I generally Nerf - at my church as a sponsor for the Youth Group there, we have to worry about breaking things and insurance issues, so stock darts are all we allow.) If you will never use your stock darts, you can convert them to CDTS's and increase your ammunition store. Since all new Nerf guns come with darts, these are actually cheaper than standard Stefans - you already have the foam!
#325970 New member groups?
Posted by
on 28 January 2013 - 12:20 PM
in
Off Topic
There's no need to be rude.
Welcome to NerfHaven. Seriously - that is pretty much how things run around here - and that is the way the mods like it. It works for some, not for others. Me, I just ignore all the latent (and not so latent) hostility and just keep my eyes open for the quality content. Don't like it? There are other Nerf forums around that are friendlier places.
#211955 Mcmaster Carr Foam
Posted by
on 13 February 2009 - 10:46 AM
in
General Nerf
For posterity's sake, and my own interest, is the "mcmaster foam" being discussed here part# 77605T442 (the 5/8" backer rod) or 93295K33 (1/2" foam rod), or something else?
#326865 Hasbro Ironman 3 inline Jolt
Posted by
on 15 February 2013 - 09:34 AM
in
General Nerf
I officially declare that Iron Man and Warmachine will be worth bonus points in any Defend the Core rounds at Foam in the Fort events.
Also, the ability to fire a largish, non-aerodynamic Iron Man figure 15 feet probably means that it can fire the darts farther. (Assuming the 15 foot claim is for the figures and not the apparently included dart.) Might be useful for integrations. Might just be useful for giggles.
Also, the ability to fire a largish, non-aerodynamic Iron Man figure 15 feet probably means that it can fire the darts farther. (Assuming the 15 foot claim is for the figures and not the apparently included dart.) Might be useful for integrations. Might just be useful for giggles.
#323724 Direct Propulsion Pistol
Posted by
on 19 November 2012 - 10:01 AM
in
Homemades
To prevent the rubber bands flying off, wouldn't it be a simple matter of adding some form of band-stop on the ends of the dart pusher? (i.e. a small washer or something similar to hold the bands on)
#326005 New member groups?
Posted by
on 28 January 2013 - 08:07 PM
in
Off Topic
Beaver - you just need a hug.
#145082 Feasibility Question - Multi-barrelled Springer
Posted by
on 14 March 2008 - 11:35 AM
in
Homemades
Thanks Carbon, I'll definately refer to your "Big SNAP" when I start work on this then!
#145078 Feasibility Question - Multi-barrelled Springer
Posted by
on 14 March 2008 - 10:19 AM
in
Homemades
By "push-pull" do you mean a simple system where you pull back and push forward, with no spring involved? (like how the cheap foam rocket launchers at Wal-Mart work?)
If so, I would prefer not to go that route. I'd like to have something that would be ready to set-off at a moment's notice, just a flick of a switch or button to trigger the full burst. If it can be done that way, that is what I'd like to do.
If that's not what you mean, could you please explain in slightly more detail?
If so, I would prefer not to go that route. I'd like to have something that would be ready to set-off at a moment's notice, just a flick of a switch or button to trigger the full burst. If it can be done that way, that is what I'd like to do.
If that's not what you mean, could you please explain in slightly more detail?
#145073 Feasibility Question - Multi-barrelled Springer
Posted by
on 14 March 2008 - 09:43 AM
in
Homemades
I am relatively new to the whole Nerf modding scene, and I have been doing a lot of thinking. One idea I have had is to build a small, multi-barrelled "shotgun" to integrate into my Longshot, to basically fill the roll of an underslung grenade launcher. (We play indoors, so long ranges aren't all that important, but a nice scattered spread of foam would be capable of clearing a small room or hallway.)
I have found an interesting PVC fitting at www.flexpvc.com. Check it out here:
http://www.flexpvc.c...t=PVC-Manifolds
The third row items are what I am talking about - the "6 port distributors".
My question is, would it be possible to build a plunger behind this thing in 2" pvc, that would keep the whole assembly short enough to fit in the bipod area of a Longshot, and would provide enough power to push darts out of all 6 barrels - or would this just be a waste of time?
I don't want to go with an air-gun for this particular deal, because I don't need long ranges and I want to be able to quickly reload and fire. I'm just not familiar enough with plungers to know if they would provide enough oomph to make this worthwhile. Ideally, I would love to load 2-3 nanos per barrel and fire off a large burst of foam with a 10'-15' range.
Any advice or outright denouncing of this idea (from those who know enough to tell me why it won't work) would be greatly appreciated.
I have found an interesting PVC fitting at www.flexpvc.com. Check it out here:
http://www.flexpvc.c...t=PVC-Manifolds
The third row items are what I am talking about - the "6 port distributors".
My question is, would it be possible to build a plunger behind this thing in 2" pvc, that would keep the whole assembly short enough to fit in the bipod area of a Longshot, and would provide enough power to push darts out of all 6 barrels - or would this just be a waste of time?
I don't want to go with an air-gun for this particular deal, because I don't need long ranges and I want to be able to quickly reload and fire. I'm just not familiar enough with plungers to know if they would provide enough oomph to make this worthwhile. Ideally, I would love to load 2-3 nanos per barrel and fire off a large burst of foam with a 10'-15' range.
Any advice or outright denouncing of this idea (from those who know enough to tell me why it won't work) would be greatly appreciated.
#145088 Feasibility Question - Multi-barrelled Springer
Posted by
on 14 March 2008 - 01:25 PM
in
Homemades
I'm trying to think of a solution where there wouldn't even be a plunger rod. What I'm thinking is that the slide would be attached to the rear of the plunger head by a small rod that would go through the plunger head from side to side, and stick out through the sides of the plunger tube to be gripped by the slide as it moves back. If the plunger head is long enough, the O-ring could seat just ahead of the grooves that would be cut for the two ends of this rod, so that no air is lost. Then the spring would fit behind the plunger head and go to the rear of the tube (not far behind where the plunger head's rear comes back to).
Like this:
| |---------|---------| |
| |...||-----|||\..|\..|| |
| |...||-----|||..\|..\|| |
| |---------|---------| |
(periods ... are empty space because the forum doesn't like multiple spaces)
If that doesn't make sense, I can do up a better image later.
Like this:
| |---------|---------| |
| |...||-----|||\..|\..|| |
| |...||-----|||..\|..\|| |
| |---------|---------| |
(periods ... are empty space because the forum doesn't like multiple spaces)
If that doesn't make sense, I can do up a better image later.
#263553 Dyne V6 Photos!
Posted by
on 28 January 2010 - 04:18 PM
in
Homemades
Please accept my gift
Sure thing. I'll PM you with my address...
All kidding aside, that is one lovely looking homemade blaster. If you lived in the US, I'd recommend you sell these things, as I'm sure you'd be able to sell them for a nice profit.
#219395 Possible Southern Mi War
Posted by
on 23 March 2009 - 08:32 AM
in
Nerf Wars
There is an outside chance that I might be able to come if it is on the 4th. That is my birthday, and so my wife might let me do whatever I want. (Or she might have secret plans that I know nothing about...?)
We might run into conflict with Massacre 4 being on the same day, and only a few hours away, but if there is enough interest for that date to hold a war, I may be able to come.
We might run into conflict with Massacre 4 being on the same day, and only a few hours away, but if there is enough interest for that date to hold a war, I may be able to come.
#220860 Nerf Infection/zombies Variant
Posted by
on 31 March 2009 - 11:35 AM
in
General Nerf
Just thought I'd do a quick writeup of a game type we just added to our lineup at the church. It is based off of the standard Humans vs. Zombies games played at many college campuses, with our own little twists added to make the game much shorter, faster paced and suitable for our indoor wars, which we usually play in the dark. I know others have mentioned similar games they've played, but I thought giving a full rundown of the game and the way we play it might help inspire others to try this gametype at their own wars. You won't regret it!
- Choose one or more starting Zombies. (We found that starting off with 2-3 Zombies out of 12 total players was better, as it allowed the game to progress quicker.) Each Zombie begins the game with a glowstick, which they must always hold openly to declare their Zombie status - no hiding the glowstick! They do not use Nerf blasters.
- The remaining players are given a short time to scatter throughout the building, during which the Zombies remain in an out-of-the-way starting location so as not to observe their movements. (A number of additional glowsticks are also placed here.) At the end of that time, the Zombies are unleashed and the game truly begins.
- If a Human shoots a Zombie, the Zombie must return to their starting location and count to a predetermined number (5, 10, 15, etc. depending on the pace you want for your game), before returning to play. Zombies may use each other as "meat shields", but as soon as a Zombie is shot, they must immediately clear the area in the quickest (and safest) way possible and make their way to the starting area.
- If a Zombie touches a Human with their glowstick, the Human is infected, becoming a Zombie, and must proceed to the Zombie starting area. Once there, the player must put down their Nerf blaster(s) and pick up a glowstick, then count to the predetermined number (as above) before returning to play.
- The last Human standing is declared the winner. (Feel free to play out the last stand though, it can be quite entertaining.) We usually let the winner be the first starting Zombie in the next game, letting them choose their fellow starting Zombie(s) as appropriate.
We played several rounds of this at our last war, and it was definitely a hit. The glowsticks give the Humans an advantage of being able to see the Zombies coming, but they make it much more difficult for the Humans to actually stay hidden in the shadows (a tactic some of our players like to use in "last man standing" style games), forcing more action. The games usually start a bit slow as the Zombies try to find the smallest, least prepared group of Humans to start snacking on. Later, as the size of the Zombie horde increases, the action heats up and the Humans grow increasingly desperate.
During one round, I was cut off from my fellow Humans as they retreated down a hallway while I was reloading. I had gotten two darts into my Maverick, and one in my AT2K (which was pumped) before I had to start shooting - and backing myself into a corner. I tagged one with the AT2K, and another with the Mav, before it jammed - leaving me as a tasty snack for the remaining Zombie. (I got my revenge on my cowardly compatriots later of course!)
I can't remember having more fun in a game for quite some time. This is definitely a game that will become a regular part of our lineup from here on out!
- Choose one or more starting Zombies. (We found that starting off with 2-3 Zombies out of 12 total players was better, as it allowed the game to progress quicker.) Each Zombie begins the game with a glowstick, which they must always hold openly to declare their Zombie status - no hiding the glowstick! They do not use Nerf blasters.
- The remaining players are given a short time to scatter throughout the building, during which the Zombies remain in an out-of-the-way starting location so as not to observe their movements. (A number of additional glowsticks are also placed here.) At the end of that time, the Zombies are unleashed and the game truly begins.
- If a Human shoots a Zombie, the Zombie must return to their starting location and count to a predetermined number (5, 10, 15, etc. depending on the pace you want for your game), before returning to play. Zombies may use each other as "meat shields", but as soon as a Zombie is shot, they must immediately clear the area in the quickest (and safest) way possible and make their way to the starting area.
- If a Zombie touches a Human with their glowstick, the Human is infected, becoming a Zombie, and must proceed to the Zombie starting area. Once there, the player must put down their Nerf blaster(s) and pick up a glowstick, then count to the predetermined number (as above) before returning to play.
- The last Human standing is declared the winner. (Feel free to play out the last stand though, it can be quite entertaining.) We usually let the winner be the first starting Zombie in the next game, letting them choose their fellow starting Zombie(s) as appropriate.
We played several rounds of this at our last war, and it was definitely a hit. The glowsticks give the Humans an advantage of being able to see the Zombies coming, but they make it much more difficult for the Humans to actually stay hidden in the shadows (a tactic some of our players like to use in "last man standing" style games), forcing more action. The games usually start a bit slow as the Zombies try to find the smallest, least prepared group of Humans to start snacking on. Later, as the size of the Zombie horde increases, the action heats up and the Humans grow increasingly desperate.
During one round, I was cut off from my fellow Humans as they retreated down a hallway while I was reloading. I had gotten two darts into my Maverick, and one in my AT2K (which was pumped) before I had to start shooting - and backing myself into a corner. I tagged one with the AT2K, and another with the Mav, before it jammed - leaving me as a tasty snack for the remaining Zombie. (I got my revenge on my cowardly compatriots later of course!)
I can't remember having more fun in a game for quite some time. This is definitely a game that will become a regular part of our lineup from here on out!
#276452 Cancelledibb Indiana Border Battle July 10
Posted by
on 30 May 2010 - 09:33 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Hmmm...not sure if my wife will let me have a full Saturday again so soon after my own war (Foam in the Fort, June 19th, </shameless plug>), but seeing as it is a tad bit closer than Chicago, I might be able to talk her into it. Put me down as a maybe for this one.
#227047 Best Way To Take Out Maverick Air Restrictors?
Posted by
on 29 April 2009 - 08:27 AM
in
General Nerf
I skip a lot of those steps by using a small pair of wire cutters (from a jewelry making kit my wife has) to simply cut the prongs that hold the "stick" to the "ring". After that, you can file/dremel the prongs down until you get a smooth circle, but I haven't noticed much difference between doing that and just leaving the cut prongs in place. It doesn't seem like it is worth the extra effort to me.
#217321 Search Nh With Google!
Posted by
on 10 March 2009 - 03:16 PM
in
Site Feedback
#227204 Best Way To Take Out Maverick Air Restrictors?
Posted by
on 30 April 2009 - 07:57 AM
in
General Nerf
I probably wasn't clear enough with my post - sorry about that. I open up the blaster, disassemble the cylinder and remove the AR's and AR springs, then clip out the peg with the above mentioned technique before reassembling the cylinder and the blaster. It is a complete AR removal and a peg removal, I just don't bother boring the orange ring that the peg was attached to smooth.
#310600 Planning an interesting war on March 14th
Posted by
on 02 February 2012 - 09:43 PM
in
Nerf Wars
A suggestion for keeping cardboard steady in windy areas - just put a brick or some other heavy object in them.
#220897 Nerf Infection/zombies Variant
Posted by
on 31 March 2009 - 03:25 PM
in
General Nerf
Not to mention a liability if you happen to be in my situation. (I'm an adult leader for the youth group that attends these events. If a kid gets hurt, it is on me and my fellow leaders.) The additional fact of our standard rules (such as no running - only fast walking, i.e. one foot always on the floor) makes this game very interesting.
#193478 Space Filler?
Posted by
on 02 December 2008 - 11:10 AM
in
Modifications
EDIT: credit where it's due - I learned about those cool manifold couplers from this post.
Yipee - I'm still inspiring people months later.
One of these days I'm actually going to have some money (when I'm not spending it on my wife and kids) and I'm actually going to buy some of those distributors and build the project I started talking about way back then!
On topic - Firefox, I would add my voice to the choir singing the song of using these distributors - you aren't going to get a more perfect arrangement of couplers any other way. I've had plans for adding either a titan or a homemade of some kind with one of these distributors on it to a Longshot's bipod area for quite a while now. The thought of a "grenade launcher" or "shotgun" on the Longshot as a backup weapon just speaks to me.
#145508 Quick Question About Maverick Penny Mod
Posted by
on 17 March 2008 - 07:11 AM
in
Modifications
The penny or pennies are place behind the spring to improve the power of the spring.
Where else would it go?
In a jar so you could start saving for a better gun?
#144847 Ls Modular, Version 2
Posted by
on 12 March 2008 - 07:35 AM
in
Modifications
I like the idea, but it seems rather costly. Recons go for about $20 at the Waterford, CT Walmart and the longshot is up to $30 so thats about a $70 purchase. You think it might work if we were to buy a few Mavericks ($8) and pull the rails of of those?
puky - The nearly-useless Recon front barrel has two rails on it, one on the top and one on the bottom. So you would only need to buy one recon. Hence, cost is only $50, with the bonus that you get a Recon as well as the modular longshot. (Plus you would get the red light/dot that you could mod as some here have done, to add to one of these rails.) And you don't ruin either gun in the process - as you would most likely do by ripping the rails off of a maverick.
#141240 Odd Little Gun...
Posted by
on 19 February 2008 - 09:52 AM
in
Modifications
I don't see any kind of turret advance system in there, so I am assuming it fires all four barrels at once?
If that is the case, then are your ranges based on the furthest dart, the shortest dart or the average of the four?
If you are getting consistent 25'+ ranges with just a spring replacement, I wonder what shoving a NF plunger in there might do? (It would take some rigging, and stick out all ugly like, but it might be worth a shot...)
I think it's a manual rotating turret. Also, why put a NF plunger in there, just buy a NF!
I meant if it was actually firing all four barrels at once, then you'd get a better push for the four darts, hence a nice shotgun effect. But if it is a manual advancing turret, not much use then - except you might have a quicker way to load up your next shot.
#145541 Quick Question About Maverick Penny Mod
Posted by
on 17 March 2008 - 02:51 PM
in
Modifications
I believe it is intended to increase the compression of the spring, causing it to move the plunger faster, thus increasing the amound of air that affects the dart before it leaves the barrel.
#186229 Locked Topics
Posted by
on 29 October 2008 - 12:07 PM
in
Site Feedback
But you know you want to...
#141231 Odd Little Gun...
Posted by
on 19 February 2008 - 08:34 AM
in
Modifications
I don't see any kind of turret advance system in there, so I am assuming it fires all four barrels at once?
If that is the case, then are your ranges based on the furthest dart, the shortest dart or the average of the four?
If you are getting consistent 25'+ ranges with just a spring replacement, I wonder what shoving a NF plunger in there might do? (It would take some rigging, and stick out all ugly like, but it might be worth a shot...)
If that is the case, then are your ranges based on the furthest dart, the shortest dart or the average of the four?
If you are getting consistent 25'+ ranges with just a spring replacement, I wonder what shoving a NF plunger in there might do? (It would take some rigging, and stick out all ugly like, but it might be worth a shot...)
#211399 Working Shotgun
Posted by
on 11 February 2009 - 11:26 AM
in
Homemades
I sure hope you're using a washer with a smaller diameter than the 1/2" FBR you're using, otherwise these things have the potential to cause an inordinate amount of pain and possible injury. Since your weight is right in the middle of something that is basically a 1/2" long x 1/2" diameter cylinder of foam, it isn't going to always fly "head forward" like a front-weighted nerf dart or stefan. These will have a tendancy to spin in midair, end-over-end, which means you might be hitting bare skin with metal if your washer is flush with the foam (or even slightly smaller).
I think a better idea would be to use standard bb weights in these, as they would be less likely to stick out of the foam.
That said, your 2 x 1/4" FBR shotgun ammo has given me food for thought. The fact that these will likely spin like that would most likely reduce their range (I'm not going to give a science lesson here, but the drag would be increased, slowing the dart down sooner rather than later). However, it would also lead to them being more likely to spread out in a true "buckshot" style, especially if you weighted each mini-dart slightly off-center of the cylinder's center line. Since I play indoors, range isn't much of a factor, and I've been trying to come up with a decent scatter blast for clearing narrow hallways, which this might just help with.
I think a better idea would be to use standard bb weights in these, as they would be less likely to stick out of the foam.
That said, your 2 x 1/4" FBR shotgun ammo has given me food for thought. The fact that these will likely spin like that would most likely reduce their range (I'm not going to give a science lesson here, but the drag would be increased, slowing the dart down sooner rather than later). However, it would also lead to them being more likely to spread out in a true "buckshot" style, especially if you weighted each mini-dart slightly off-center of the cylinder's center line. Since I play indoors, range isn't much of a factor, and I've been trying to come up with a decent scatter blast for clearing narrow hallways, which this might just help with.
#310576 Planning an interesting war on March 14th
Posted by
on 02 February 2012 - 06:56 AM
in
Nerf Wars
With 10-20 people, a single basketball court sized gym could work. With 50-60, you WILL NOT have nearly enough room. You will simply have a crowd of people milling about shooting each other - especially if you put up any kind of cover. Go with the field (and provide lots of cover). I held a war in which over 40 people showed up, and we played on a large elementary school campus with lots of wooded area. It was great. That same number of people in a small gym would have been awful!
The jail system could work, but you will still have people "sitting out" as they wait in jail. Better to have designated respawn areas, and have them go and count themselves back in. (With that many people in play, I would up the count time significantly, so one team could actually make some headway toward reducing the other team's numbers - say something like a 30 count or more (we typically do 10 or 15 counts at our wars).
If you have two flags, make it two teams, unless you have something for the other half of the crowd to be doing. Who wants to sit around a watch others having fun when you could be having fun yourself?
Also, I suggest you look into other game types mentioned on this site. Look for things like "Defend the Core", "Humans vs. Zombies", and "Sieze the Balls" (aka "Carpe Testiculum" - this one is great for breaking down into multiple teams - you could even do five or more teams if you wanted) as great alternative objective games that are great fun and where nobody sits out.
The jail system could work, but you will still have people "sitting out" as they wait in jail. Better to have designated respawn areas, and have them go and count themselves back in. (With that many people in play, I would up the count time significantly, so one team could actually make some headway toward reducing the other team's numbers - say something like a 30 count or more (we typically do 10 or 15 counts at our wars).
If you have two flags, make it two teams, unless you have something for the other half of the crowd to be doing. Who wants to sit around a watch others having fun when you could be having fun yourself?
Also, I suggest you look into other game types mentioned on this site. Look for things like "Defend the Core", "Humans vs. Zombies", and "Sieze the Balls" (aka "Carpe Testiculum" - this one is great for breaking down into multiple teams - you could even do five or more teams if you wanted) as great alternative objective games that are great fun and where nobody sits out.
#310657 Planning an interesting war on March 14th
Posted by
on 04 February 2012 - 09:19 AM
in
Nerf Wars
For larger boxes, check with grocery stores and "big box" electronics, furniture, appliance and department stores. Most of them just throw their boxes out, and would probably be happy to donate dozens of large boxes to your cause. Most Nerfers can hide behind a box meant for a washer or dryer after all...
#213455 Question About The New Sonic Darts
Posted by
on 19 February 2009 - 09:29 AM
in
General Nerf
I don't know whether they will release the new darts in 10-packs or not, but why would you want them to?
At my local Wal-Mart, you can buy the 10-packs for $4.00 each.
Also at Wal-Mart, you can buy a 25-pack (w/ free Vulcan chain) for $8.00 each.
Compared to the 10-pack That's like getting 5 darts + the Vulcan Chain free.
At my local Target, you can buy the 100-packs (w/ Ammo Box) for $30.00
To get 100 darts from the 10-packs, you'd have to buy 10 packs. That's $40.00 - $10.00 more than the 100-pack (not to mention getting that wonderful, high quality Ammo Box free! </sarcasm>) It's even cheaper than buying the Vulcan Chain refills, at least as far as the darts themselves are concerned. 100 darts purchased that way would cost $32.00. Of course, if you have a Vulcan and want the extra chains, then the chain packs make more sense. (As you'd get four chains instead of one ammo box, for a total difference of only $2.00.)
So again I ask. Why would you want to buy them in 10-packs? If you are buying extra darts, that means that either your original darts are lost/broken/worn out, or you want more darts available so you don't run out as quickly during a war. In either case, a single 10-pack usually isn't going to be enough (if your darts are lost/broken/worn out - these probably will be eventually). As I've shown, for as little as $4.00 more, you can buy your darts much more cost-effectively than in the 10-packs.
At my local Wal-Mart, you can buy the 10-packs for $4.00 each.
Also at Wal-Mart, you can buy a 25-pack (w/ free Vulcan chain
) for $8.00 each.Compared to the 10-pack That's like getting 5 darts + the Vulcan Chain free.
At my local Target, you can buy the 100-packs (w/ Ammo Box) for $30.00
To get 100 darts from the 10-packs, you'd have to buy 10 packs. That's $40.00 - $10.00 more than the 100-pack (not to mention getting that wonderful, high quality Ammo Box free! </sarcasm>) It's even cheaper than buying the Vulcan Chain refills, at least as far as the darts themselves are concerned. 100 darts purchased that way would cost $32.00. Of course, if you have a Vulcan and want the extra chains, then the chain packs make more sense. (As you'd get four chains instead of one ammo box, for a total difference of only $2.00.)
So again I ask. Why would you want to buy them in 10-packs? If you are buying extra darts, that means that either your original darts are lost/broken/worn out, or you want more darts available so you don't run out as quickly during a war. In either case, a single 10-pack usually isn't going to be enough (if your darts are lost/broken/worn out - these probably will be eventually). As I've shown, for as little as $4.00 more, you can buy your darts much more cost-effectively than in the 10-packs.
#158106 Detroit Wins The Cup!
Posted by
on 05 June 2008 - 09:23 AM
in
Off Topic
As a displaced native of Hockeytown, I couldn't be happier. I know quite a few folks in my family who are probably celebrating big time right now.
#155980 Spy Gear Wireless Tracking System Review
Posted by
on 16 May 2008 - 09:25 AM
in
General Nerf
Sounds intriguing. I'd be game to at least know what kind of kit you could put together and how much it would cost. I'd say don't buy anything just yet - but get your ideas together and let us know what you intend, then you would get a better gague of who would be interested in your kits.
#187421 Vote
Posted by
on 04 November 2008 - 09:13 AM
in
Off Topic
I have already performed my civic duty and cast my ballots for national, state and local elections.
In my opinion, those who don't vote (and can), have no right to complain about the people elected into office.
In my opinion, those who don't vote (and can), have no right to complain about the people elected into office.
#196997 Aim/accuracy Challenge
Posted by
on 18 December 2008 - 04:15 PM
in
Off Topic
How about one of those little targets that comes with the Nitefinder.
Setting it up around 70 feet away.
Not that is a challenge.
The questions are:
Is your gun accurate enough?
Are your darts made well enough.
We've used the NF targets as actual objective targets in one of the game-types I run with the youth group at church.
We set up two large targets (printer paper boxes with tissue paper covering the open end) and three to five small targets (the NF targets) as the required targets for assaulting an enemy base. Once all of the NF targets are knocked over, and the two tissue paper targets have been breeched by missiles (darts don't count), the round is over. The teams take turns as attackers/defenders, with the attackers having infinite respawns, while the defenders only get one or two each. Whichever team "destroys the base" faster wins the game.
Obviously, accurate, long-ranged shooting against the NF targets can really help your team take down the enemy base that much quicker.
#214419 Question About The New Sonic Darts
Posted by
on 23 February 2009 - 11:40 AM
in
General Nerf
Dude13 - As I mentioned, I have noticed the foam in the black-foam sonics does wear out fairly quickly, but I've never had a single problem with the heads staying on. Perhaps you got a bad batch...?
islot - Sounds like your experience with the orange-foam sonics confirms what I've heard from other sources. If they increase ranges (vs. suction-tipped micros) as well as the old black-foam ones, but maintain their rigidity better, I'll be quite a happy camper when I get my hands on some of these. Now I just need to talk my wife into letting me get one of those 100-count ammo box packs.
islot - Sounds like your experience with the orange-foam sonics confirms what I've heard from other sources. If they increase ranges (vs. suction-tipped micros) as well as the old black-foam ones, but maintain their rigidity better, I'll be quite a happy camper when I get my hands on some of these. Now I just need to talk my wife into letting me get one of those 100-count ammo box packs.
#213729 Question About The New Sonic Darts
Posted by
on 20 February 2009 - 03:59 PM
in
General Nerf
You're welcome.
It's a great time to be a sonic micro fanatic. We use only stock darts in the wars we have at my church (for liability reasons), and I've found that the sonic micros work best in most of my blasters (all except the Longshot and the Recons of course). I tend to trim about 1/4" off of each one to reduce jams in the Mavericks, but otherwise they are perfect.
All of my current sonics are the old-style black foam, and I've noticed that they tend to degrade after a lot of use (the foam gets soft and they lose range). I've heard that the new orange foam sonics feel a bit more dense. Do you happen to know whether they last longer than the black foam sonics?
It's a great time to be a sonic micro fanatic. We use only stock darts in the wars we have at my church (for liability reasons), and I've found that the sonic micros work best in most of my blasters (all except the Longshot and the Recons of course). I tend to trim about 1/4" off of each one to reduce jams in the Mavericks, but otherwise they are perfect.
All of my current sonics are the old-style black foam, and I've noticed that they tend to degrade after a lot of use (the foam gets soft and they lose range). I've heard that the new orange foam sonics feel a bit more dense. Do you happen to know whether they last longer than the black foam sonics?
#233944 Wtf Is This?
Posted by
on 02 June 2009 - 02:41 PM
in
General Nerf
It looks like the bastard child of a Big Blast and a Speedloader, but I've never seen it (or anything quite like it) before.
I'm rather curious about this thing. Have you opened the box yet? I don't see a trigger anywhere... Is it a push-pull? Is it a pull and release? Or is there a trigger I'm just not seeing? Does the turret auto-rotate, or is it manual?
And of course, what was the price?
(For the smart-alecks: Yes, I can see that it says "air pump powered" on the box. The AT2K also says "auto advancing barrel" on the box - so I don't put a whole lot of faith in the marketing used on boxes.)
I'm rather curious about this thing. Have you opened the box yet? I don't see a trigger anywhere... Is it a push-pull? Is it a pull and release? Or is there a trigger I'm just not seeing? Does the turret auto-rotate, or is it manual?
And of course, what was the price?
(For the smart-alecks: Yes, I can see that it says "air pump powered" on the box. The AT2K also says "auto advancing barrel" on the box - so I don't put a whole lot of faith in the marketing used on boxes.)
