Gyrvalcon's Content
There have been 104 items by Gyrvalcon (Search limited from 11-May 97)
#176753 My Idea Of What A Longshot Should Look Like
Posted by
on 11 September 2008 - 09:16 PM
in
Modifications
#79336 Near
Posted by
on 09 April 2006 - 07:05 PM
in
Homemades
Again, Beautiful work.
#147113 Intro / Question
Posted by
on 26 March 2008 - 02:31 PM
in
Homemades
#147084 Intro / Question
Posted by
on 26 March 2008 - 11:04 AM
in
Homemades
Action Concept
Making it Easier to Manufacture
The original thread is here.
It's pretty low on parts, (threaded rod, O-rings, PVC)and you shouldn't need many tools to build. Whether it would actually work is another question entirely.
#94888 Chain Guns?
Posted by
on 20 November 2006 - 08:08 PM
in
General Nerf
My rough example of what I am thinking:
#94842 Chain Guns?
Posted by
on 19 November 2006 - 09:34 PM
in
General Nerf
#193498 Maverick / Titan Integration
Posted by
on 02 December 2008 - 02:52 PM
in
Modifications
#194337 Not A Rifled Barrel
Posted by
on 06 December 2008 - 02:58 PM
in
Homemades
You mean a muzzle brake, Slug. And that would get annoying because it means the dart can catch on a port hole and shred, it has happened to me. And it would increase noise, not good things in a war.
If you countersink the hole from inside the barrel (dremel +spherical abrasive bit is good for this) you shouldn't have much problem with darts catching. As for sound, I'm dubious that porting would make a significant difference in a nerf blaster, not to mention that noise isn't really an issue with nerf anyways.
#155849 Recon Faster Reload?
Posted by
on 14 May 2008 - 07:30 PM
in
Modifications
But it's a bad idea. Hell, it's not an idea at all. You drew a paint picture of how to wire an electric motor to a PP3 battery. You didn't show a linkage of any type between the cocking/loading mechanism and the motor. You didn't specify the motor type, or check if it had enough power to compress the spring and cycle the action using the non-existent mechanical linkage. Bad ideas get killed. Leave this one to die in peace.He wanted an idea to base his work off and I gave him one.
#155845 Recon Faster Reload?
Posted by
on 14 May 2008 - 07:05 PM
in
Modifications
AEG Nerf Blasters have not been proven feasable, yet. The Vulcan might just prove me wrong on that count.
The Magstrike works from a pressurized air tank, while the Recon uses a plunger system. They are not compatible with each other.
It is physically possible to link the trigger to the cocking mechanism, but due to the mechanical advantage (or lack thereof) you couldn't pull the trigger.
If you want a semi-auto blaster, Deaddumpster has the right idea, and the Recon isn't the blaster you want.
#140272 The Snap-4m
Posted by
on 14 February 2008 - 06:03 PM
in
Homemades
Wingardium Leviosa!I actually had an image of using it like a sword or wand, but I think that's probably going to go away.
But really, I like the idea of a hilt style grip. Keeps the whole "tiny" form factor.
#192821 Fang Automatic Nerf Gun, Prototype 1
Posted by
on 29 November 2008 - 06:52 PM
in
Homemades
#195362 The "stefanzooka"
Posted by
on 10 December 2008 - 10:37 PM
in
Homemades
Electical tape will not cover leaks. Use Goop on leaks.
Other than that, cool. Looks like a boomstick.
As has been said before, goop isn't good for making airtight PVC joints either. Use PVC cement to solvent weld the joints. It's not expensive or difficult.
#86224 New Pneumatic Gun
Posted by
on 31 July 2006 - 11:32 PM
in
Homemades
This plan looks solid, but do you have some pictures we can see?
#86242 New Pneumatic Gun
Posted by
on 01 August 2006 - 11:31 AM
in
Homemades
By the way, wrong joint, that is an "elbow" joint.
Understandable (and somewhat humorous) mistake.
#87098 My Name
Posted by
on 10 August 2006 - 10:52 PM
in
Off Topic
But that's just my personal opinion.
#205439 Categorizing Mods And Homemades.
Posted by
on 22 January 2009 - 06:50 PM
in
General Nerf
You could build a custom shell and action, and as long as it uses a air system or plunger tube from a Lanard/Nerf/Buzzbee blaster, it's still a mod.
If, on the other hand, you take a shell and action from a stock blaster and replace the internals with a SNAP plunger tube (for example), it's a homemade.
It still comes down to exercising common sense for wars. I think all blasters should be taken on a case by case basis, homemade and modified alike.
#165775 Directional Control Valve Actuated Qev
Posted by
on 31 July 2008 - 11:14 PM
in
Homemades
#108921 First Homemade
Posted by
on 02 June 2007 - 02:21 PM
in
Homemades
I think he means that the pressure chamber has multiple angled couplers, allowing it to form a loop and save on overall length. I might be mistaken, it's hard to tell from such a vague opening post.I'm still not sure what you mean by a spiral shape.
#80436 Free Pain, Anyone?
Posted by
on 20 April 2006 - 07:18 AM
in
Homemades
The point of a sword is to be a sharpened stick with which you beat people. You don't swing your sword and then blast a dart at someone from the pommel.
I would beg to differ. People have been "swinging and then blasting" (although not necessarily with darts) since the late 17th century.
Eighteenth century flintlock sword-pistol
They were often used as hunting swords, designed to place two weapons in one hand.
But a cool sword, with or without blaster capabilities
#142695 Wob+
Posted by
on 26 February 2008 - 09:03 PM
in
Homemades
And what's all this about a much sillier project? Do Tell...
#88023 New Effective Bullpup Design
Posted by
on 21 August 2006 - 08:41 PM
in
Homemades
Unless you were talking about a compressed air and valve system from the start.
My point is, the type of magazine used doesn't make a weapon a bullpup, it is where the magazine is in relation to the trigger.
#84215 Pvc Ballvalve Barrel Attachment
Posted by
on 02 July 2006 - 07:30 PM
in
Modifications
Kinda Like This...
Yes... I have sweet MSPaint skillZ...
#84015 Pvc Ballvalve Barrel Attachment
Posted by
on 29 June 2006 - 09:41 PM
in
Modifications
Is it just me or do I not get this. Why would you do something like this. What the hell are the ball valves for? I have been looking at this all day and I just can't figure it out.
As I see it, this simply allows you to have two or more barrels, that can be controlled individually. If the valves were not in place, both darts would fire at the same time, at half the power. This way, You can open one barrel, fire it, close it, open the other barrel, fire it, close it, repeat as needed.
#83897 The Thing
Posted by
on 27 June 2006 - 03:53 PM
in
Homemades
#111785 Any One Good With Photoshop?
Posted by
on 17 June 2007 - 10:59 PM
in
Off Topic
Now I don't claim to be any-some-such lighting expert, but it looks like the helmet-light-beam has edges that are too well defined. Maybe soften or diffuse it as it goes further out. Also, why isn't the chestplate/shoulder-strap a silhouette? Where is the light source illluminating it?
Again, I like the way it's looking, and I look forward to seeing the finished piece.
P.S. - What's this poster for?
#82852 Design Of Meh New Homemade!
Posted by
on 06 June 2006 - 05:02 PM
in
Homemades
Linky Link Brokeded... Doesn't work for me,anyways.
Instead asks me to log in.
As you.
#112859 Nerf Grenade Idea
Posted by
on 24 June 2007 - 04:12 PM
in
General Nerf
Do you guys think it's possible?
I don't think it's possible. I don't think it's possible because all you will ever do is talk about it.
Prove Me Wrong.
#83146 Mad Hornet Cpvc Mod
Posted by
on 11 June 2006 - 08:54 PM
in
Modifications
Nice mod too, but why do you stick with stock darts?
#157975 Pbpb Writeup
Posted by
on 03 June 2008 - 10:16 PM
in
Modifications
#116863 Homemade:troubleshooting
Posted by
on 22 July 2007 - 11:07 PM
in
Homemades
You could try putting the valve to a ninety degree angle of the barrel.
...with that setup you may even be able to make it semi-auto with some leverage tricks. Making a triangle with your trigger on a short angle (IE 35) and your valve attachment on a large angle (IE 55)... and for maximum leverage you'd want to change the IEs so at full trigger stroke it'd be a 45-45-90 triangle.
This is an excellent idea, and one that I hadn't thought of previously. It brings up a new problem however: How to actuate the valve if it's on an angle. That would probably introduce a new seal into the equation.
And Seals Are A Bitch.
#116903 Homemade:troubleshooting
Posted by
on 23 July 2007 - 11:50 AM
in
Homemades
My ideas.
1. Attach the trigger to the piece and use some sort of cord on little block and tackles to pull the breach.
2. Use the block and tackle idea to do both.
After you put in the vinyl tube take a long drill bit and drill out what protruds into the outer barrel. I think that those schrader valves were used in CX's homemade in the homemades section.
*snip*
I wasn't clear enough with my original plan, I suppose. The beauty of the action in the first diagram is that the Inner Barrel can push the Valve back, and because the Inner Barrel is not sealed for its whole length, the trigger can attach at some point on it.
As for the Reservoir, I thought of something that I'd like to run by you all. If the Reservoir was wrapped all the way around the Outer Barrel, I wouldn't need to worry about protrusions into the Outer Barrel. It would be a question of making an air-tight seal at the hole through the 1" PVC endcaps.
#116907 Homemade:troubleshooting
Posted by
on 23 July 2007 - 12:24 PM
in
Homemades
Yes, that would solve the trigger pull problem, at the expense of adding another seal. I'm not sure which road I'll take yet.Well. Didn't I just say. Make a nice little triangle. Ahm. Wait for it...
*snip*
Just replace "Valve" with what you had in mind. As for the seal in the back, use an O-ring one size smaller than the rod you use to control the valve, and it should be fine. I dun it.
#87783 Bikes!
Posted by
on 18 August 2006 - 03:47 PM
in
Off Topic
It's light as all get out, and a simple bike. No hydraulic disc brakes or gas dampened shocks for me, no sir.
(Not that I don't want fancy fittings, but my bike is a mode of transport, not a TIE fighter wannabe)
#116759 Homemade:troubleshooting
Posted by
on 22 July 2007 - 12:12 AM
in
Homemades
#116757 Homemade:troubleshooting
Posted by
on 22 July 2007 - 12:07 AM
in
Homemades
The Vague Plan:
A valve inspired by Dr. Nerf and his valve and CaptainSlug's A.B.P.
I had first hoped that the barrel's back-and-forth motion would correspond directly with the trigger pull and return. Unfortunately, my first iteration proved that this would require a trigger pull of several inches: the dart length + dead space between dart and valve + valve travel.
Which brings me to...
The Failed Attempt:
My first iteration went undocumented, as I abandoned the project after hitting some problems. I can, however, give a description and illustration.
1.
-The "Outer Barrel" is the long beige rectangle, with the right angle at the end, made of 3/4" CPVC
-The "Reservoir" is the grey rectangle, made of 1" PVC
-The "Connection" between the Outer Barrel and Reservoir is 1/4" Vinyl Tubing
The "Valve" is the more complex part, descibed further in (2.)
2.
-The Valve consists of two O-Rings on a section of Threaded Rod, spaced by 1/2" CPVC and kept in place by two Nuts that have been ground down to fit inside the Outer Barrel.
This model failed because of bad seals between:
-The "Air Source" (not pictured) and the Outer Barrel
-The Reservoir and the Outer Barrel, at the Connection
Mistakes/Problems To Be Solved:
-I sealed the Connection with only hot glue, and expected it to be airtight.
-I didn't use a one-way valve between my Air Source (a hand pump) and the Outer Barrel.
-Where the Connection met the Outer Barrel, there was too much obstruction, keeping the Valve from sliding freely.
That should sum up what I've done so far. I've now been motivated to take another crack at it, but I'd like to run few ideas past the NIC. First, the Connection between the Outer Barrel and Reservoir. The "two crappy bits of tube and hot glue" approach was a bad one. Hot glue isn't durable, so I got some PVC cement, which means no more vinyl tubing. I need a Reservoir and Connection that's airtight and makes no protrusion into the Outer Barrel, so as to keep the Valve's movement unimpeded, yet allow maximum airflow when open. Second, I've realized I need a one way valve between the Air Supply and the Outer Barrel, as the pump isn't enough to hold back the pressure needed. I bought a couple Schraeder valves, but I need to find the best way to mount them. The valves are encased in rubber... and I kind of lost the little documentation they came with...has anyone used these before?
The Schraeder Valve:
The last problem, one which I haven't played with yet, is the best way to trigger the valve. If plain trigger pull is insufficient, then there needs to be a different way to cycle the action. I, of course, am leaning towards lever action. I'm shying away from a pneumatic ram (like in the A.B.P.) due to complexity issues. Ideas?
I hope I've explained the situation perspicuously, If you have questions, ask away.
#80814 Lever Action Ng
Posted by
on 26 April 2006 - 11:20 AM
in
Homemades
This design has definitely not been perfected, and is a work in progress.
It utilizes a FAR-like pressure chamber setup, as well as a GNS/SCAR inspired fire control system.
The cocking action is acheived by a lever with a second, sliding fulcrum attatched to the pressure chamber. This lever is vaguely "Y" shaped, with the two arms of the "Y" on each side of the PC.
A second, but more expensive/fiddly option would be to use a rack+pinion system to achieve the cocking action.
The best part of the Lever Action is it allows the user to "spin-cock" the gun one handed. This in itself is radical, but it brings with it the possibilty of -dare I say it- effective dual wielding
Please post your comments/ideas.
#80817 Lever Action Ng
Posted by
on 26 April 2006 - 01:00 PM
in
Homemades
First, thankyou for the feedback. It is encouraging.Wouldn't your magazine need to be farther forward?
The pivot point is going to have a huge amount of stress placed on it. I also wonder about having enough mechanical advantage to compress a suitably strong spring with that lever arrangement.
-The magazine's placement is questionable, I agree. I originally had a vertical one on the design, for simplicitys sake, but angled it in an attempt to give the lever enough room to complete its swing. If it is not possible to squeeze it in, it may need to be mounted sideways.
-The lever is the main reason why this project's viability is suspect. Although I think it would be possible to mount it with enough strength, the mechanical advantage is low. Perhaps adding a spring that assists the PC/lever on its way towards the butt would decrease the amount of force needed to cock it. Of course, then more force would be needed to bring the lever back.
