https://www.youtube....h?v=O2thSsQrZUM
 
 
http://www.carbon3d.com/
 
Could these (if someone bought one *unlikely* or found someone with one or otherwise got access to one) be easier/better/stronger/easier then all the other options listed here? 
 
As far as i can tell its better then:
 
3d Printing
Casting
molding (purely because price)
carving/whatever it is (CapSlug's Posts)
 
 
Please tell me what you think!

I have access to one. Not worth it. It's strength is only slightly stronger, and it's too expensive. Not worth it

I'm having a problem with my EAT, while modding it, i accidentally broke the piece that stops the breech from going back so now it will not prime back. does anyone know a way to fix this or a place i can buy  a new piece?

 we need picture to diagnose the problem/ 

 

I highly doubt that decades-old molds are just kicking around in inventory somewhere. Many of these companies likely never directly possessed the molds as well; Chinese manufacturing was a thing then as now and it's likely a Chinese manufacturer built and operated the tooling. Once the orders for the product stopped coming, the tooling was most likely recycled.

 

It may be possible to recommission the tooling from old files that Hasbro or some autonomous manufacturing company holds; but that's also pretty unlikely as you'd need to get someone who knew what and where they were and then who could update them to modern formats.

You must all remember that the 1995 KENNER nerf crossbow was NOT a hasbro patent. It was a Kenner patent, which was a branch company of Tonka which was a subcompany of hasbro. Not only would hasbro/"nerf" NOT have the design files of an over 2 decade, but the blaster itself was manufactured IN mexico, not china so similar to what meaker said, its unlikely the files or molds would still exists. That's also one of the reason why replicating this blaster wouldn't cause any legal issues, the issues are simply cost efficiency and actual strength of shell after production. 

Firstly, you don't need 1/2in brass. If you're going to get brass, 17/32 is the typical choice for stefan darts, and will sometimes be too tight for elite darts. This can be switched out for 9/16 brass which can fit for elite darts. Typically all you need is 17/32 and 9/16. For a brass breech, you have one of two options, 9/16 as your barrel, or 17/32 as your barrel. If 17/32 is your barrel, you can use the 9/16 on the bolt itself and it will sleeve over the 17/32 as a sheath, and when you prime forward, the dart will sit theoretically 50/50 in 9/16 and 17/32. If you're using 9/16 as your barrel, you have more options. you can use the 17/32 as the dart pusher, and push darts into your barrel and create a seal, or do the same thing as you would with the 17/32 barrel and 9/16 sheath, but instead with 9/16 barrel and 19/32 sheath.

 

So basically my suggestion is get 17/32 and 9/16 brass. don't really need anything else.

You could try cutting the pump off and replacing it. Or, get a tetra strike tank. That may work.

injection molded nylon? thats... im not even sure which i would rather have?
I don't pay a lot of attention to you at APOC, since i can hear you all day, so i wouldn't have noticed what you were carrying.
anyone have a link to the 3d printed sentinel lever? i can throw that right on the list of parts getting made- i could even modify it a little for comfort.

 

i found the link to the 4B trigger, i will move that to the "getting made" folder. due to the negative mold process, i will have to post cast some of the edges into them after production- the long side groove, the... pin slot? and clean up the bottom(?) slide bit. i may have to work with some who has current access to solidworks to make some quick changes in the file so that i can make a mold for the foundry.

 

*I THINK* I'm not sure. I think it is, but i know its a nylon composite. That fact is 100% sure of.

could I make an artifact style breech myself?

so the original breech bit pushes the dart into the barrel?

would that work effectively or is a normal brass breech better?

would it work with full length darts?

can i put the aluminium into the original breech and would that be better than the stock breech?

 

In theory you can. But the system works like a universal breech with a pusher, that pushes darts into the barrel, then seals it. Whether its effective or not is up to how you do it. And once again, theres no better, its just how you make it work, and how you like it. More then likely you wont be able to make it full length darts, its up to you to design and make it possible, but I haven't see it done yet. and uh... I guess, but you'll have to figure out your own way, and it may be better, but it depends on your mods.

Personally, as a canadian nerfer, I love the barrels. they have great fit for mine/our darts. But it varies. I know the SG guys love it, but idk about the other places.

The ls sled was an injection molded nylon composite, nylon-6 or something like that. It was done by the JetX guys for their new x-zues

get a screw remover kit. if not, get blue tack or something like that, put some on your screw driver, and apply a lot of pressure and unscrew simultaneously. or glue your driver to the screw. whatever works for you 

I would personally be interested in full metal (that includes priming bar and sled) of alpha troopers.

I also have a design for a "half sled" for longshot plunger tube replaced alpha troopers

I'll be there as well! Sadly MiG is out camping that weekend so he won't be joining us this time

Hey bud, I want to help, what's your total draw and diameter of you Plunger tube?.  I am very good at barrel/plunger tube volume optimizations.

Hi there, sorry for the late response, But roughly 5 1/2" and the plunger tube is 1"

you can do the same thing backwards by putting a piece under the spring instead of over it.

Can you explain a bit more what you did and provide some better pictures? The title makes it sound like you set up a mag locked in the blaster so you can load it on the fly, but we'd all like to know more about what you did. The picture shows locks you removed, how do you load the mag though?

 

 

I believe he removed the ability to take out mags by inserting the paper into the mag release, making the clip permanent. I'm the second photo, you can see hat hes actually cut the shell top so that when he primes the top slide, there's a hole which he can load darts directly into the top of the 12 mag.

Well done article! I do have a question though which I couldn't find in the article. What were the ranges that you were receiving with this?

First, don't necro a thread from so many years ago, and second, as the current owner, its getting 100+

*This is my first modguide type post, please excuse my lack of experience*

** WARNING, VERY PICTURE HEAVY **

 

The nitefinder rifle is one of the very first NIC level blasters I'd ever used. Although nitefinders can be found online and at thrift stores; both for very cheap, they are technically obsolete. So let's take the the Elite equivalent blaster, and create a new generation of pistol rifles

 

~materials~

 

-consumables-

-- Super Glue

-- JB Weld

-- Hot Glue

-- Epoxy Putty

-- Lube

-- E-tape

-- Teflon Tape

-- Rubbing Alcohol

 

-Parts-

-- PVC Coupler

-- CPVC Coupler

--Replacement O-ring

-- 3/8 inch Square rod (Mines delrin)

-- Plunger Tube replacement (Mines 1' Polycarb)

-- Main Spring Placement (Mines a [k26])

-- Catch Spring Replacement

-- Assortment of Springs (I don't know what spring sizes, I just used random ones I had around that worked)

*Optional* If you intend to use your own seal (I.g a skirt seal) you'll need to appropriate materials for that

 

-Tools-

-- Hacksaw

-- Drill (with drill bits appropriate to screw sizes)

-- Screw taps (obviously corrasponding to your screw choices)

-- Dremel

-- Sharpie

-- Ruler

*Any took that will achieve the same results/objectives as the listed above will work.*

 

~Now all the boring parts, lets get to the mod~

 

 

First take your FireStrike and disassemble. No hidden screws so nothing to worry about. the bottom battery cover doesn't need to be unscrewed, but can be done anyways.

 

If you do remove the cover, remember to just screw the nut onto the screw to keep track of it for the future 

 

Next we will work with the plunger assembly. The plunger rod needs to be cut at two places. (only one is showed in this photo, forgot to photo graph the other)

This is what we will have left

And this is all we will use 

If you wish to use the first strike plunger head, the OD of the FS plunger head and ID of the 1" polycarb tube is only a few mm different, so the o-ring will be to big. You have to replace it with a thinner o-ring.

drill on the inside of the orange piece that the plunger head is attached too.

I will be using the original pull piece of the of the FS, but you can make your own with standoffs or poly carb. If you are like me, you'll need to do a few things.

It is wise to remove the middle bar as it will make drilling the hole after better. 

Next we reinforce it 

You will need to start on your plunger tube assembly now. My polycarb plunger tube is roughly 9".

CPVC couplers fit perfectly inside PVC couplers. so using a bit of super glue, seat them together, wrap some e-tape around the remaining bit of CPVC and seat it into the polycarb tube. Glue it in place (I used JB weld). 

Drill a hole, put a screw through it at the end with the e-tape, and wrap some e-tape around it to look pretty (I coated the screw opening, screw threads, and screw head and bolt with JB weld to make sure there was no leaks).

Voilà, you now have a universal couplered plunger tube.

Next measure out your plunger rod to desired length. Mine is 9" long.

For the main Spring cut it to the desired length with a little bit on pre-compression.Mine is roughly 8 1/2" long.

You'll have to cut your catch groove. (I didn't take a picture before I started but yeah) Remember to cut the flat part facing the plunger head. 

Mine catch groove (the flat part) is 2 and 7/8" from the front. The slant portion can be how ever long you want it to be.

My catch groove is no more then 3/16" deep/down. 

The stock FS shell cant actually fit the 3/8" square rod because the FS rod isn't square, it's rectangular, not square, so youll need to sand the outside bits just a little. I've already done it in this photo which is why it looks square.

When you place it into the shell, you'll see/notice a few things

The blue lines show the stress point of the catch when you upgrade the catch spring. that will break if you do not reinforce it. you can do so by reinforcing the space behind it

The blue circle shows that the blaster wont catch since the old plunger rod had ramps going up to catch. With the new plunger rod, the groove is down into the catch (sadly forgot to take a photo of this), so you'll need to give the catch some room to move down. you can do this by sanding the trigger ramp a little. 

 

Time to work with the shell

The plunger tube will not fit, so some sanding needs to be done 

You will need to do some shell reinforcing for the new spring

On the right side half of the shell,  reinforce the front bit so it's flat for the spring to press against, and the back part to reinforce the spring rest before the catch

On the left side, don't go past the blue line or you'll interfere with the catch, but don't go higher then the post (being pointed at with the black arrow) or you'll interfere with the plunger rod. 

It should look like this

 

Now let's get the plunger assembly  to stay in the blaster when closed. 

As you can see, with the plunger tube in, there is a giant gaping hold where the light is. 

So use the original light housing to support the plunger tube up. 

Next lube up these parts of the shell

Rough up the plunger Tube around those areas, place it into the shell, and fill those sections with epoxy putty. (I also placed the light housing back in and used that as a place for the e-putty to stick too)

You can take the extra precaution like I did, and go over the seem lines where the e-putty and polycarb tubes meet, with JB weld. (Not photo graphed)

Next we take it one step further, and close the shell with only the plunger tube inside. Drill two holes at the nerf logo for screws. Dont drill them to far back orelse they will be useless. Drill them towards the front of the circle. Make sure the screws you use arent to long as you dont want them to interfere with the spring. (The washer screws inside titans used to hold the lever trigger in place are really good sizing for this) 

 

 

Now assemble your blaster, make sure to screw everything in, and add your screws to help keep the plunger tube in place. 

 

 

 

~Results!~

All shots are fire with as new darts as possible darts. As parallel to the ground as possible roughly 4' 6" from the ground. (my shoulder height)

 

Stock FS - Elite Darts-code "K" came from a XD Retaliator (12 dart package).

~52'

~57'

~59'

~59'

~64'

 

FS Rifle - 16" CPVC Barrel. Twist fit on darts. Elite Darts-code "K" came from the same XD Retaliator (12 dart package). All darts fishtailed cause elites

~40'

~Forgot to take a look at the tape... opps..

~85'

~110' (estimated)

~110' (estimated)

 

Fs Rifle - 16" CPVC Barrel. Push fit on darts. Shmmee's Precut Hot Rod XL Foam blanks, 3/0 Fishing weights, Green mcmaster felt tips. Account that some dark skipping may happens. (besides last dart. that one landed in grass)

~84'

~93'

~95'

~99'

~120'

 

Nothing goes to say that 16" of CPVC is optimal, just what I had around. but overall, you can see that it is already a major improvement over stock, and a nice fun rainy day mod.
It was fun to recreate one of my first blaster. 

your best bet is just to test it. we dont know much about what springs youre using so we cannot say for certain, but should be relatively ok

A piece of advice, you may want to reinforce your boltsled, the 8kg will produce a lot of stress on the sled, and it will eventually break.

for the stock clock, you don't have to use cpvc or pvc, anything that prevents it from collapsing works. 

I do think youd still need to upgrade the catch spring not one hundred percent sure, but i do think so.

Im in for both days!

Just to be clear, slugs sili tips, xplorer darts, with #6 or #8 washers, 3/0 fishing weights?
Glue domes are a no no (in all fair understanding, just wanted to make sure)

I'll see if I can talk the and only MIG into coming

put me down for a maybe

Im interested

I'm from ottawa, I'm down.

Hi there fellow Ontario nerfer! I'm charlie, I'm also an Ontario Canada nerfer. Sadly, I live in Ottawa, a little farm from both those places, roughly 4 hours. I don't have a car, but I assume when I can get a car, and can drive, if I can, I think I would be willing to trek down there for a war if you can get a good number. MiG had tried to host last year, me being the only one with N.I.C ready blasters, (besides MiG obviously) it also didn't have a good turn out. So I can't speak for him if hes willing to turn up, But we can all wish!

when you say nerf (hasbro) I assume you're not counting Larami and kenner nerf blasters?

I'm down for probably at least 20m of foam. I think a new color would be quite sweet.


There are other 5/8" OD materials that have different inner diameters. I personally really like the butyrate tubing from McMaster. Slightly looser than CPVC. For airgun purposes, I like the aluminum tubing they have.

Actually, redline polycarb that used to be sold by FMF has a SLIGHTLY bigger id.

Depending in where canada, or it doesn't really matter, PETG as well at 3/8 nylon rod.

Forsaken Angel and his crew retired from hosting after the last Hell had about 8-10 of us show up. Basically the vets have retired and not enough young guns have stepped up to fill the void. Some of us have tried hosting wars, but being outside of the GTA has led to less than desired turnouts.

^^^ Exactly that. Canadian nerfers are to spread out, and unless people want to drive 2-3 maybe 4 hours around, its hard to really get a war going. me and MIG tried to host a war last summer, but the turn out wasn't very large, and people who said they would show didn't. since then, I've talked with a few nerfers from the US, saying if we could get a semi good turnup, they would have a really high possibility of showing up. but until MIG is no longer busy, and school is done for me, that wont be happening. Nerfing in Canada, just isnt as big as the US, brits, and Aus

I always do my darts with any where from 2-3 copper BB's in the middle, or just one 3/o fishing weight. I find it really easy to just eyeball the center hole, as its not that difficult to do.

My Completely Modified 1995 Nerf Kenner Crossbow with Integrated. Homeade Internals (plusbow sized plunger tube, 3/8 nylon rod, roboman custom aluminium lathed plunger head, [k25], 1/4 inch polycarb for main pull back plate with wood screws and vinyl tubing spacers for 1/8 inch polycarb pull, AT3K with AT2K pump, with screws covered in vinyl tubing as a pump stop, 1/8 reinforcement plates up front to distribute for properly, epoxy puddy extended trigger, epuddy handle modification mold to make more comfortable) Perfect seal, half inch conduit PVC coupler for the AT3K and reducer bushing for the Crossbow.





Finished 3B. Universal coupler, 1/2 inch conduit PVC with 1/2 inch CPVC endcap with back dremaled out nested inside to make Universal coupler, completely straight, perfect seal, industrial Canadian spring, shorter then [k26] by a bit, but about 1.5 times stronger, hole drilled into plunger rod to keep plunger head and spring rest plate on the actually plunger rod, hot glue in the "skirt" part of the original seal, re greased. stronger catch spring, and strong side... spring this... the things that keep the 3B primed until you pull trigger.

I tank expand ALL of my AT#K's with the goo goo gauge, and have never had a problem. just empty it all out, and solvent weld it together, then dip each screw with epoxy then screw it back in. I replace the stock 3k pump with a RP20 pump, and keep the stock tubing, and can push up to I believe 10 pumps, and get upwards of 140+ using CPVC barrels which is normally extremely erotic.

Newest and cleanest NF rifle In a long time. 90-100 Flat




Modded Crossbow With AT2K integration. Handle has been supported to be comfier. Seal has been redone to be perfect, will repaint old crappy pain job done before me once less cold. 140 flat




Originaly an AnTheHeroIs modded Crossbow. Fixed by me. Seal been improved, O-rings at spring rest blot reinforcement replaced. 140-flat




Newest Tank Expanded AT3K. 1FT long redline barrels. Rapid Fire 20 pump replaced. Rear-loading hole. 130-140 flat

I tank expand all of my AT2Ks and 3Ks with the goo gauge. Most people have told me that these things will rupture, and I've never had a problem. I run my 2k at somewhere around 6-9 pumps, just depending on how much of a dick I want to be, and I use cpvc barrels, so the fit is super tight, yet I get rages at 6 pumps, upward of 120-130 flat. as for my 3K's, I've done a little experiment, back when I did my first one, I did a draw extension on the stock pump and got I think somewhere of like 6-8 pumps safely, and didn't bother to take it any higher cause ranges where as the 2K, 120-130 flat. now of my current 3K, I have it replaced with a FULL rapidfire 20 pump, and can run it up to 8 pumps with the draw extension. no leakage from any of my many overhauled tank expanded 2k's and 3k's that all get 120-130 sometimes 140.

I believe this is called an SVT 4B? 1/2 Conduit PVC coupler



my show piece Rear-Loading Tank-Expanded CPVC/REDLINE AT2K. haven't given it a name yet, will soon. 130ft ranges. 1 foot long redline barrels, 6-8 pumps.



My NIC panther. 3 different barrel systems. both RSCB's (black barred on is redline, white one is cpvc) are 3 1inch size dart clips, all hitting 110 on the last shot at ten pumps. cpvc rscb is 9 inch barrel, redline rscb is a 10 inch barrel. Singled barrel I believe is 11 inchs. my cleanest Panther yet, I believe one of the cleanest looking one out there for what it is. (not being cocky) half inch 90* CPVC street elbow hot glued to tank. Supported by shell cut to fit it perfectly.



Berserker pistol? tank from a Buzzbee berzerker, with elastics centring lever and cut down trigger glued and epoxyed on for comfortable 1 or 2 finger pull, assortments of scarp cpvc for hand (hot glued in place) and custom tooth pick pump stopper. 1/2 PVC conduit coupler 100ft + flat 2ft redline barrel, 5 pumps.



Cleanly done quick blast recon. goal was to make as stock looking as possible, and accomplished it. quick blast tank has been reinforced EXTENSIVELY. 15 pumps. 3/4-1/2 cpvc reducer bushing. 100ft 12inch CPVC/redline barrel. flat.



AT3K pistol. just a AT3K tank with firing pin bent to contour own finger with vinyl tubing around for comfortable trigger pull. Dart tag pistol thing for handle, vinyl tubing runs through handle and pex bars which tank is attached too. 3 pumps=100ft-120 ranges flat Universal coupler. 12inch CPVC/redline barrel.

I'm deeply sorry to tell you this, but dude, neither of those are oprv's....

Are we allowed to take a blaster produced before 2013 as well as a nerf blaster of 2013 and use it for the contest. Say like a longshot and roughcut or kinda like the stryfe and stampede like what ice and coop did. Are we allowed things like that?