Ryan201821

**DANGER**

 

I ordered 2000 of these through the same link Kane and Zorn used.. I chose BuyChina.com as my Taobao agent, and I'm very disappointed. The price was definitely excellent, and it was very easy to order, but they shipped me something completely different than what I thought I purchased:

 

 

These would probably be better than the Artifacts that the above mentioned received, but they are straight up ROCK MODE. These are basically hot glue domes.

 

I've tried contacting my BuyChina agents but they haven't responded so I've filed a dispute on PayPal as of a few minutes ago. I guess I'll see what happens and keep people updated.

Recap

+Sweet juices
-No nerfing

Great war. It's been 7 years since I've been to a 'Geddon. It was cool seeing a bunch of people I haven't seen in years, and also meeting a bunch of new people I've never met. The war location is excellent for a war this size. I especially admire the perfect symmetry allowing different games to be set up easily and accurately with little effort. Thanks to Zeke for putting up with everyone's bullshit for the weekend, and the time and cost that goes into hosting a nerf war, especially one this size. 

 

Things I liked:

• Death clicker gametype is a perfect mashup of Deathmatch and Meat-Grinder. I need to get some mechanical counters.
• U3 trains
• Other general trains that were rollin'
• Rock Mode, of couse.
• I took a nice cold one.
• Double ESLT is super effective, still...The blowgun is the perfect attachment for shooting little kids, or rushing fools while making poop sounds.
• Little kids who were smarter than a lot of the older people.
• Lots of ideas for potential future projects to revolutionize nerf once again.
• Weather 

Things that could've been better:

• Staging area was too close to field of play. Maybe we should just tell people expect to be shot at all times, within the gated area. (i.e. wear safety glasses)
• Decent cover, but a couple smaller mobstacles in the more open areas would've made it perfect.
• Not having to fly on a plane to get there.

Things that need to change:

 

• FVJ darts, and other not-even-close-to-soft domes = not nerf. These things are straight rocks, yo. I saw some pretty nasty damage to some people from these darts and at points it was generally frightening to walk into certain situations. I think this was also amplified by the most likely over-powered blasters they were using. 
• Loudspeaker would be a nice addition. Sometimes it was difficult to wrangle people to the next game. Especially since none of us were very good at yelling.
• Darts in general. Maybe by this time next year we'll finally have the end-all solution.

 

I definitely plan on going next year. Sorry East Coast, but it is better than Apoc.

ESLT 1.6 Build Guide





Background:

Original thread: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=23437
ESLT 1.0: https://sites.google...er---3d-printed
ESLT 1.5: https://sites.google...1-5-build-guide

Clear ESLT Demo: https://www.youtube....h?v=lz9rx-qmZmE

The first ESLT was built 2+ years ago, and a lot has changed since the original. This is the latest version MHA is producing, and the design will continue to evolve from here. A 3D printer is required to make these blasters unless you are clever enough to substitute all the printed pieces with something else. It's definitely possible, as many people have already done this, including ourselves. The 3D printed version is obviously a lot easier to build if you have the necessary tools.

This blaster is designed for 5.5" of draw.

Changes since 1.5:
-New printed angled pump grip (replaces reducing tee)
-Eyebolt changed to a steel one
-New ReDirectPiece and o-ring holder
-Changed plunger rod material to anodized aluminum
-New BarrelSpacer to accommodate pump grip
-MainHandle more angled for comfort


Downloadable Files

Click Here
39 MB

Contains everything you need, stl's for printing, stp's for modeling, and a parts/cost sheet.

.ipt files are compatible with Autodesk Inventor 2014 or newer.

Essential Tools
-3D Printer w/ no less than 7x7x7" print area
-Scrollsaw or Hacksaw
-Drill press and/or power drill
-Dremel w/ cutting wheel or Mill/Scrollsaw
-7/64”, 5/32", .260" (or slightly over .250), 1/2", 5/8" drill bits
-#6-32 tapping bit
-1/4-20 tap and die set
-5/16-18 tapping bit
-Scissors and/or file
-Screwdriver
-Countersink (Any size, really)
-Hot glue and/or super glue
-Duct tape
-Silicone lube
-Safety glasses
-Vise and/or wrench
-Tape measure/ruler/calipers

Printing your Components



MainHandleZPrint/Halves - This is the part of the handle you physically hold. There are two ways to do this. You can do it vertically, like we do, or you can do it in two halves and glue them together. If people don't have printers that can print up to 160mm in the Z axis, you'll need to do them in halves. Layer adhesion is the weakest point on parts that come off these printers, so extra/thicker perimeters are a must if printing vertically. A larger nozzle is preferred. Post-print you'll have to tap the two holes (#6) at the top of the print where it attaches to the HandleClamp. You also may need to drill out the three holes (#6 clearance), where it attaches to the FrontHandlePiece.

FrontHandlePiece - This is probably the most challenging print on the blaster. They are pretty long (175mm) and will warp at least a little bit unless you really have your settings on your printer super fine tuned. I've found adding lots of brim helps, especially adding brim to your model so the brim is actually attached to the printed part for a layer or two. Post-print you'll need to tap the two holes (#6) where it attaches to the HandleClamp. You also may want to drill out the two holes (#6 clearance), where the CatchPiece and Trigger are mounted.

HorizontalPumpGrip - This is the aforementioned new add-on. It replaces the reducing tee which was heavy, expensive, and a lot of machining required to get it to work. We usually print these with a few extra perimeters, and is now the biggest print on the blaster.

CatchPiece; CatchInterface - The CatchPiece is basically the catch of the blaster (hence the name), where the CatchInterface is more like the "catch notch" in a normal blaster. These two pieces need to be 100% infill since they see a lot of wear during use. Post-print you'll need to tap (1/4) the only hole on this piece.

Trigger3DPrint/Mirror - These don't really don't matter how they're printed. You'll need to glue the two piece together after they are printed. After they're glued together, drill out the hole (#6 clearance).

ReDirectPiece - This piece sees a lot of wear since the plunger head is smashing into it each time it's fired, so it's printed at 100% infill. After it's printed, drill out the hole for the CPVC stub (5/8"), and drill and tap (#6) the three new holes on the bottom of the piece.

ReDirectPieceWasher - This is a new piece that sandwiches the rod seal o-ring against the ReDirectPiece. We usually print these at 100% infill to be safe, and they're small pieces. Drill out the three holes (#6 clearance).

HorizontalPumpGripSpacer(x2) - These replace the old PumpGripSpacer, and need to be 100% infill. Drill out the two holes (#6 clearance). They are much smaller and easier to print than the old version.

EyeboltAdapter - The Eyebolt Adpater needs to be strong and is a quick print with a larger nozzle. The new adapters are fitted for a #6-32 steel eyebolt, as opposed to the #10-24 or 1/4-20 nylon ones we used to use. Post-print, you'll have to tap one end with a 1/4-20 tap, and the other end uses a square nut and does not need to be tapped.

BarrelSpacerHorizontalPumpGrip - The newly added printed pump grip, meant we needed to make some extra space near the front since it's much longer than the reducing tee. This new print fits inside the front end of the FrontTube as well as the outside. More perimeters is probably a good idea for this print as barrel spacers are always prone to getting damaged.

ESLTPlungerHead (Front/Rear) - More information on these can be found here. You'll need to tap (#6) the two holes in the front piece that connects the two. The back piece should be drilled out with a #6 clearance hole. Both also need to be tapped (1/4-20) to attach to the plunger rod.

WyeSpacer - Also another print that doesn't have to meet any specifications. This print simply gives you a wedge in between the wye and the front tube to tape the barrel assembly from wobbling.

StockFlange (optional) - If you have a printer you might as well do this piece. It attaches the plunger tube to an HDPE sheet which is hot glued to a piece of foam, for comfort. This is a highly recommended add.

Tube & Rod Machining



The Priming tube is the linkage from the HorizontalPumpGrip that pushes on the CatchInterface, which pushes back the plunger rod. You can scrollsaw, mill, or dremel the bottom slot. The holes should be 7/64" or a #6 pilot, and need to be tapped afterwards. These need to be fairly centered holes so the 1" is mounted centrally inside the 1 1/4" front tube.



Make sure your PVC is smooth on the inside. The majority of PVC we encounter is very bumpy and awful on the inside, creating unnecessary friction and a shitty seal. The holes will be drilled after you've inserted and attached your ReDirectPiece and Stock.



The biggest tube to machine, and requires some pretty long slots. We do these on a mill, but a scrollsaw is probably the next best option, followed by a Dremel, which is pretty terrible. The slot should be at least 3/8" wide, if they are centered. If they're off, they'll like need to be oversized. The holes should also be #6 pilot holes and drilled after you've assembled some stuff. Again, this will be explained more later. The larger hole in the front is 1/2" in diameter which holds the spring post. You'll also need a slot on the bottom for the CatchPiece to clear.



These are basically a tube cut almost in half, leaving one side to be a little more than a half tube. This will clamp over/slide over your 1 1/4" tubes, and connect your handle to them. It needs a 1/2" slot in the bottom, with 5/32" or #6 clearance holes to attach to the handle. They also need to be countersinked. The holes near the top of the clamp should be #6 clearance holes, and you should drill them before cutting the tube in half.



Pretty straightforward here, make sure you chamfer the CPVC/PVC barrel combo to allow a smooth feed for the the darts. Instead of using a CPVC coupler, you can also use a length of 1/2" PVC drilled out to 5/8", or magical conduit that cheerios finds at Menards. Make sure you super glue your CPVC/PVC barrel combo because you don't want that coming un-done.



This can be a difficult piece to machine. You'll have to cut the aluminum rod to 11.5", and use a die to cut threads 1.5" long on both sides. During this process you'll have to figure out a way to vise the rod without damaging it. We usually use two pieces of soft wood that you can just crush in the vice. Make sure you don't bend the plunger rod in the process. Both of these will cause major issues later, mostly the plunger rod having tons of unnecessary friction.

We're now using a segement of anodized aluminum instead of the plain stuff. It's three times more expensive, but is much less prone to getting scratched and marred causing the plunger rod to seal like shit. The McMaster# in this drawing is incorrect, and should be #6750K13



These are just small bits that you'll need later on. #6 clearance hole for the spring post, and roughly .25" away from the top.

Super glue the CPVC/PVC wye stub. You need this to stay together when you press fit the Barrel Assembly together.

Sub-Assemblies







The shape of the foam piece and stock plate are really up to the user's preference. Make sure you drill speed holes after you've put the stock on the plunger tube. Your blaster won't work otherwise. Just use the 5/32" bit and drill 3 or 4 holes through the side of the flange and the plunger tube to allow air to pass through when firing.





This is the step where you'll need your hot glue gun. Your ReDirectPiece should be loose-ish in the Plunger tube, so add a small line of hot glue around where it's being inserted into the tube. Push that in all the way until the Plunger tube butts up against the top of the ReDirectPiece.

Now take your Redirectpiecewasher, and sandwich the smaller o-ring in between the bottom of it, and the front of the Redirectpiece. It's easier to align the o-ring when you have the plunger rod through it when you assemble. Tighten the screws enough so it seals the o-ring between the two plastic pieces. If you tighten the screws too much, you'll smash the o-ring too much, causing it to have a lot of extra friction on the plunger rod. You'll also want to lube this o-ring up during assembly.

During the Final Assembly, you'll drill the holes you need to secure this assembly to the rest of the blaster. Right now, you should have no holes in the ReDirectPiece, or the Plunger tube.


Final Blaster Assembly











Questions, comments, flames, please post...

Good chances we will be there, with P-SCRTs and ESLTs for sale.

The PullSCRT

[video needed]



Background:

+bow: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=10521
Purple Catch: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=24114

The idea behind this blaster was to replace the +bow by using 3D printed parts. It's much quicker to built, has no face diddle, built in check-valve, and costs much less to build in terms of materials and labor. This guide will also show you how to build The Purple Catch, which can be installed on any blaster with 1 1/4" PVC.

Blaster is designed to have 6" of draw.

Downloadable Files

Click Here
51 MB

Contains everything you need, stl's for printing, stp's for modeling, and a parts/cost sheet.

.ipt files are compatible with Autodesk Inventor 2014 or newer.

Essential Tools
-3D Printer w/ no less than 7x7x7" print area
-Scrollsaw or Hacksaw
-Drill press and/or power drill
-Dremel w/ cutting wheel or Mill/Scrollsaw
-7/64”, 5/32", 3/8" drill bits
-#6-32 tapping bit
-Scissors and/or file
-Screwdriver
-#6 Countersink
-Hot glue and super glue
-Silicone lube
-Safety glasses
-Vise and/or wrench
-Tape measure, ruler

Printing your Components



Handle - We usually do a couple extra perimeters for the Handle. If you are using newer versions of Slic3r (1.2 and higher), you can add modifiers to the object you're printing, which will allow you to alter settings for a specific section. For example, in this case we want just the top section to be solid infill, where the screws attach. The rest of the handle can be printed normally. If you need help with this, let me know. Post print, you need to drill out the hole (#6 pilot) for the trigger, and tap it. You also need to drill and tap the two holes on the bottom that attach the stock rod.

PlungerRodHandle - This part is designed to have 6mm walls at the thinnest point. Since we have a printer with a 0.6mm nozzle, this is five perimeters. You'll want at least those areas to be solid. Post print, drill out the hole where it attaches to the plunger rod (#6 clearance).

CatchPiece - Make sure this piece is solid. After it's printed, you'll have to file/sand each edge and surface down. Fit it inside the cavity on the handle where it's supposed to go to ensure it slides properly.

TriggerHalf1-2 - Print these normally, but you'll need to pay some special attention to these pieces afterwards. Glue each half together with super glue. After the glue is dry, sand/file the edges just like you did on the CatchPiece to make sure it fits nicely in the handle.

StockGuideFront/Rear - These can be printed normally. The hole in the front piece is an outlet for 1/2" PVC. Drill out all eight holes with a #6 clearance. On the front piece there will be some support material underneath that you'll need to remove.

Stock-Bottom/Top-Print - Print these with normal settings and drill out the 6 holes for the stock (#6 clearance), and the two on the bottom print where you'll attach screws to the bottom rod.

SpringRest/Back - Print both of these pieces solid. Drill (#6 pilot) and tap the four holes on the larger piece, and drill out (#6 clearance) the two countersink holes on the back piece.

PlungerHeadFront/Back - These pieces should also be printed solid. Drill out the two countersink holes in the back piece (#6 clearance). On the front piece, drill out (#6 clearance) the countersink hole, and drill (#6 pilot) and tap the two holes that attach the two pieces to each other. You'll also have to remove a small amount of support material from the front piece.

Tube & Rod Machining



Make sure your PVC is smooth on the inside. The majority of PVC we encounter is very bumpy and awful on the inside, creating unnecessary friction and a shitty seal. The larger holes on the top and sides should be 3/8". Countersink the two holes on the bottom from the top, through the larger holes. These holes attach your handle. All the small holes should be #6 pilots. Cut a slot for the CatchPiece using a mill or dremel. You can also use a scrollsaw but you'll have to make a large hole on the top to accommodate for the scrollsaw blade.







Sub-Assemblies











Final Assembly











Questions, comments, flames, please post...

Horizontal printed pump grip



Pullback prototype

If thats the same foam as a pool noodle, it's not going to work. Open cell foam doesn't work for darts, yo.

Background
Bullpups are the new hottest thing in the NIC these days so I decided to build one that's better than the rest. Ice9 gave me the idea a while back to use latex tubing to power a blaster. I've been changing the design constantly over the last six months or so and probably will keep doing so. I'll try to update new files and pieces in this write-up as the blaster improves. I'd like to thank Kane for access to his printer and for letting me adapt his snapoid-level catch to something that can be easily made, and works flawlessly. You'll see different pictures of different revisions, so make sure you read the descriptions for the pictures. This blaster was designed around having a 3d printer, so a lot of things will force you to be creative and come up with a different way of building it.

I will not be selling printed pieces at this time, and probably won't be for the immediate future.


3D Printed Version












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