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Ryan201821

Member Since 08 Feb 2006
Offline Last Active Aug 26 2016 08:08 AM

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ESLT 1.6 Instructions

10 February 2015 - 12:24 AM

ESLT 1.6 Build Guide



1423546055-344914-1-alAssemblyStepMaster

Background:

Original thread: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=23437
ESLT 1.0: https://sites.google...er---3d-printed
ESLT 1.5: https://sites.google...1-5-build-guide

Clear ESLT Demo: https://www.youtube....h?v=lz9rx-qmZmE

The first ESLT was built 2+ years ago, and a lot has changed since the original. This is the latest version MHA is producing, and the design will continue to evolve from here. A 3D printer is required to make these blasters unless you are clever enough to substitute all the printed pieces with something else. It's definitely possible, as many people have already done this, including ourselves. The 3D printed version is obviously a lot easier to build if you have the necessary tools.

This blaster is designed for 5.5" of draw.

Changes since 1.5:
-New printed angled pump grip (replaces reducing tee)
-Eyebolt changed to a steel one
-New ReDirectPiece and o-ring holder
-Changed plunger rod material to anodized aluminum
-New BarrelSpacer to accommodate pump grip
-MainHandle more angled for comfort


Downloadable Files

Click Here
39 MB

Contains everything you need, stl's for printing, stp's for modeling, and a parts/cost sheet.

.ipt files are compatible with Autodesk Inventor 2014 or newer.

Essential Tools
-3D Printer w/ no less than 7x7x7" print area
-Scrollsaw or Hacksaw
-Drill press and/or power drill
-Dremel w/ cutting wheel or Mill/Scrollsaw
-7/64”, 5/32", .260" (or slightly over .250), 1/2", 5/8" drill bits
-#6-32 tapping bit
-1/4-20 tap and die set
-5/16-18 tapping bit
-Scissors and/or file
-Screwdriver
-Countersink (Any size, really)
-Hot glue and/or super glue
-Duct tape
-Silicone lube
-Safety glasses
-Vise and/or wrench
-Tape measure/ruler/calipers

Printing your Components

1426015450-344914-2-ESLT1.6_PrintedParts

MainHandleZPrint/Halves - This is the part of the handle you physically hold. There are two ways to do this. You can do it vertically, like we do, or you can do it in two halves and glue them together. If people don't have printers that can print up to 160mm in the Z axis, you'll need to do them in halves. Layer adhesion is the weakest point on parts that come off these printers, so extra/thicker perimeters are a must if printing vertically. A larger nozzle is preferred. Post-print you'll have to tap the two holes (#6) at the top of the print where it attaches to the HandleClamp. You also may need to drill out the three holes (#6 clearance), where it attaches to the FrontHandlePiece.

FrontHandlePiece - This is probably the most challenging print on the blaster. They are pretty long (175mm) and will warp at least a little bit unless you really have your settings on your printer super fine tuned. I've found adding lots of brim helps, especially adding brim to your model so the brim is actually attached to the printed part for a layer or two. Post-print you'll need to tap the two holes (#6) where it attaches to the HandleClamp. You also may want to drill out the two holes (#6 clearance), where the CatchPiece and Trigger are mounted.

HorizontalPumpGrip - This is the aforementioned new add-on. It replaces the reducing tee which was heavy, expensive, and a lot of machining required to get it to work. We usually print these with a few extra perimeters, and is now the biggest print on the blaster.

CatchPiece; CatchInterface - The CatchPiece is basically the catch of the blaster (hence the name), where the CatchInterface is more like the "catch notch" in a normal blaster. These two pieces need to be 100% infill since they see a lot of wear during use. Post-print you'll need to tap (1/4) the only hole on this piece.

Trigger3DPrint/Mirror - These don't really don't matter how they're printed. You'll need to glue the two piece together after they are printed. After they're glued together, drill out the hole (#6 clearance).

ReDirectPiece - This piece sees a lot of wear since the plunger head is smashing into it each time it's fired, so it's printed at 100% infill. After it's printed, drill out the hole for the CPVC stub (5/8"), and drill and tap (#6) the three new holes on the bottom of the piece.

ReDirectPieceWasher - This is a new piece that sandwiches the rod seal o-ring against the ReDirectPiece. We usually print these at 100% infill to be safe, and they're small pieces. Drill out the three holes (#6 clearance).

HorizontalPumpGripSpacer(x2) - These replace the old PumpGripSpacer, and need to be 100% infill. Drill out the two holes (#6 clearance). They are much smaller and easier to print than the old version.

EyeboltAdapter - The Eyebolt Adpater needs to be strong and is a quick print with a larger nozzle. The new adapters are fitted for a #6-32 steel eyebolt, as opposed to the #10-24 or 1/4-20 nylon ones we used to use. Post-print, you'll have to tap one end with a 1/4-20 tap, and the other end uses a square nut and does not need to be tapped.

BarrelSpacerHorizontalPumpGrip - The newly added printed pump grip, meant we needed to make some extra space near the front since it's much longer than the reducing tee. This new print fits inside the front end of the FrontTube as well as the outside. More perimeters is probably a good idea for this print as barrel spacers are always prone to getting damaged.

ESLTPlungerHead (Front/Rear) - More information on these can be found here. You'll need to tap (#6) the two holes in the front piece that connects the two. The back piece should be drilled out with a #6 clearance hole. Both also need to be tapped (1/4-20) to attach to the plunger rod.

WyeSpacer - Also another print that doesn't have to meet any specifications. This print simply gives you a wedge in between the wye and the front tube to tape the barrel assembly from wobbling.

StockFlange (optional) - If you have a printer you might as well do this piece. It attaches the plunger tube to an HDPE sheet which is hot glued to a piece of foam, for comfort. This is a highly recommended add.

Tube & Rod Machining

1423546055-344914-3-rimingTubeDimensions

The Priming tube is the linkage from the HorizontalPumpGrip that pushes on the CatchInterface, which pushes back the plunger rod. You can scrollsaw, mill, or dremel the bottom slot. The holes should be 7/64" or a #6 pilot, and need to be tapped afterwards. These need to be fairly centered holes so the 1" is mounted centrally inside the 1 1/4" front tube.

1423546055-344914-4-lungerTubeDimensions

Make sure your PVC is smooth on the inside. The majority of PVC we encounter is very bumpy and awful on the inside, creating unnecessary friction and a shitty seal. The holes will be drilled after you've inserted and attached your ReDirectPiece and Stock.

1423546055-344914-5-CFrontTubeDimensions

The biggest tube to machine, and requires some pretty long slots. We do these on a mill, but a scrollsaw is probably the next best option, followed by a Dremel, which is pretty terrible. The slot should be at least 3/8" wide, if they are centered. If they're off, they'll like need to be oversized. The holes should also be #6 pilot holes and drilled after you've assembled some stuff. Again, this will be explained more later. The larger hole in the front is 1/2" in diameter which holds the spring post. You'll also need a slot on the bottom for the CatchPiece to clear.

1423546055-344914-6-chPVCClampDimensions

These are basically a tube cut almost in half, leaving one side to be a little more than a half tube. This will clamp over/slide over your 1 1/4" tubes, and connect your handle to them. It needs a 1/2" slot in the bottom, with 5/32" or #6 clearance holes to attach to the handle. They also need to be countersinked. The holes near the top of the clamp should be #6 clearance holes, and you should drill them before cutting the tube in half.

1423546055-344914-7-1.6_BarrelDimensions

Pretty straightforward here, make sure you chamfer the CPVC/PVC barrel combo to allow a smooth feed for the the darts. Instead of using a CPVC coupler, you can also use a length of 1/2" PVC drilled out to 5/8", or magical conduit that cheerios finds at Menards. Make sure you super glue your CPVC/PVC barrel combo because you don't want that coming un-done.

1423546055-344914-8-PlungerRodDimensions

This can be a difficult piece to machine. You'll have to cut the aluminum rod to 11.5", and use a die to cut threads 1.5" long on both sides. During this process you'll have to figure out a way to vise the rod without damaging it. We usually use two pieces of soft wood that you can just crush in the vice. Make sure you don't bend the plunger rod in the process. Both of these will cause major issues later, mostly the plunger rod having tons of unnecessary friction.

We're now using a segement of anodized aluminum instead of the plain stuff. It's three times more expensive, but is much less prone to getting scratched and marred causing the plunger rod to seal like shit. The McMaster# in this drawing is incorrect, and should be #6750K13

1423546055-344914-9-ESLT1.6_StubsandMisc

These are just small bits that you'll need later on. #6 clearance hole for the spring post, and roughly .25" away from the top.

Super glue the CPVC/PVC wye stub. You need this to stay together when you press fit the Barrel Assembly together.

Sub-Assemblies

1423763669-344914-10-LT1.6_BarrelAssembl

1423763669-344914-11-6_PlungerRodAssembl

1423763669-344914-12-ESLT1.6_FoamStock.j

The shape of the foam piece and stock plate are really up to the user's preference. Make sure you drill speed holes after you've put the stock on the plunger tube. Your blaster won't work otherwise. Just use the 5/32" bit and drill 3 or 4 holes through the side of the flange and the plunger tube to allow air to pass through when firing.

1423763669-344914-13-LT1.6_HandleAssembl

1423763669-344914-14-_PlungerTubeAssembl

This is the step where you'll need your hot glue gun. Your ReDirectPiece should be loose-ish in the Plunger tube, so add a small line of hot glue around where it's being inserted into the tube. Push that in all the way until the Plunger tube butts up against the top of the ReDirectPiece.

Now take your Redirectpiecewasher, and sandwich the smaller o-ring in between the bottom of it, and the front of the Redirectpiece. It's easier to align the o-ring when you have the plunger rod through it when you assemble. Tighten the screws enough so it seals the o-ring between the two plastic pieces. If you tighten the screws too much, you'll smash the o-ring too much, causing it to have a lot of extra friction on the plunger rod. You'll also want to lube this o-ring up during assembly.

During the Final Assembly, you'll drill the holes you need to secure this assembly to the rest of the blaster. Right now, you should have no holes in the ReDirectPiece, or the Plunger tube.


Final Blaster Assembly

1423763669-344914-15-LT1.6_FinalAssembly

1426015450-344914-16-LT1.6_FinalAssembly

1426015450-344914-17-LT1.6_FinalAssembly

1426015450-344914-18-LT1.6_FinalAssembly

1423763669-344914-19-alAssemblyStepMaste

Questions, comments, flames, please post...

The PullSCRT

09 February 2015 - 05:57 PM

The PullSCRT

[video needed]

1423544927-344901-1-_FinalAssemblyMaster

Background:

+bow: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=10521
Purple Catch: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=24114

The idea behind this blaster was to replace the +bow by using 3D printed parts. It's much quicker to built, has no face diddle, built in check-valve, and costs much less to build in terms of materials and labor. This guide will also show you how to build The Purple Catch, which can be installed on any blaster with 1 1/4" PVC.

Blaster is designed to have 6" of draw.

Downloadable Files

Click Here
51 MB

Contains everything you need, stl's for printing, stp's for modeling, and a parts/cost sheet.

.ipt files are compatible with Autodesk Inventor 2014 or newer.

Essential Tools
-3D Printer w/ no less than 7x7x7" print area
-Scrollsaw or Hacksaw
-Drill press and/or power drill
-Dremel w/ cutting wheel or Mill/Scrollsaw
-7/64”, 5/32", 3/8" drill bits
-#6-32 tapping bit
-Scissors and/or file
-Screwdriver
-#6 Countersink
-Hot glue and super glue
-Silicone lube
-Safety glasses
-Vise and/or wrench
-Tape measure, ruler

Printing your Components

1423544927-344901-2-P-SCRT_PrintedParts.

Handle - We usually do a couple extra perimeters for the Handle. If you are using newer versions of Slic3r (1.2 and higher), you can add modifiers to the object you're printing, which will allow you to alter settings for a specific section. For example, in this case we want just the top section to be solid infill, where the screws attach. The rest of the handle can be printed normally. If you need help with this, let me know. Post print, you need to drill out the hole (#6 pilot) for the trigger, and tap it. You also need to drill and tap the two holes on the bottom that attach the stock rod.

PlungerRodHandle - This part is designed to have 6mm walls at the thinnest point. Since we have a printer with a 0.6mm nozzle, this is five perimeters. You'll want at least those areas to be solid. Post print, drill out the hole where it attaches to the plunger rod (#6 clearance).

CatchPiece - Make sure this piece is solid. After it's printed, you'll have to file/sand each edge and surface down. Fit it inside the cavity on the handle where it's supposed to go to ensure it slides properly.

TriggerHalf1-2 - Print these normally, but you'll need to pay some special attention to these pieces afterwards. Glue each half together with super glue. After the glue is dry, sand/file the edges just like you did on the CatchPiece to make sure it fits nicely in the handle.

StockGuideFront/Rear - These can be printed normally. The hole in the front piece is an outlet for 1/2" PVC. Drill out all eight holes with a #6 clearance. On the front piece there will be some support material underneath that you'll need to remove.

Stock-Bottom/Top-Print - Print these with normal settings and drill out the 6 holes for the stock (#6 clearance), and the two on the bottom print where you'll attach screws to the bottom rod.

SpringRest/Back - Print both of these pieces solid. Drill (#6 pilot) and tap the four holes on the larger piece, and drill out (#6 clearance) the two countersink holes on the back piece.

PlungerHeadFront/Back - These pieces should also be printed solid. Drill out the two countersink holes in the back piece (#6 clearance). On the front piece, drill out (#6 clearance) the countersink hole, and drill (#6 pilot) and tap the two holes that attach the two pieces to each other. You'll also have to remove a small amount of support material from the front piece.

Tube & Rod Machining

1423544927-344901-3-P-SCRT_PlungerTube.j

Make sure your PVC is smooth on the inside. The majority of PVC we encounter is very bumpy and awful on the inside, creating unnecessary friction and a shitty seal. The larger holes on the top and sides should be 3/8". Countersink the two holes on the bottom from the top, through the larger holes. These holes attach your handle. All the small holes should be #6 pilots. Cut a slot for the CatchPiece using a mill or dremel. You can also use a scrollsaw but you'll have to make a large hole on the top to accommodate for the scrollsaw blade.

1423544927-344901-4-ThinwallPVCStockTube

1423544927-344901-5-CRT_BarrelPlungerRod

1423544927-344901-6-P-SCRT_StubsMisc.jpg

Sub-Assemblies

1423544927-344901-7--SCRT_HandleAssembly

1423544927-344901-8-_PlungerHeadAssembly

1423544927-344901-9-P-SCRT_StockAssembly

1423546055-344901-10--SCRT_BarrelAssembl

1423546055-344901-11-_PlungerTubeAssembl

Final Assembly

1423546055-344901-12--SCRT_FinalAssembly

1423546055-344901-13--SCRT_FinalAssembly

1423546055-344901-14--SCRT_FinalAssembly

1423546055-344901-15--SCRT_FinalAssembly

1423546055-344901-16-_FinalAssemblyMaste

Questions, comments, flames, please post...

ESLT 1.5 Build Guide

04 July 2014 - 05:43 PM

ESLT 1.5 Build Guide



esltcollagesuperawesome.jpg

Background:

Original thread: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=23437
ESLT 1.0: https://sites.google...er---3d-printed
Clear ESLT Demo:

First, I'd like to give credit to Kanethemediocre for the birth of this blaster. I've pretty much taken his original design for the double-level catch and with both our inputs, we've made this the best blaster the NIC has to offer.

The first ESLT was built almost two years ago, and a lot has changed since the original. This is the latest version MHA is producing, and the design will continue to evolve from here. A 3D printer is required to make these blasters unless you are clever enough to substitute all the printed pieces with something else. It's definitely achievable, but the 3D printed version is obviously a lot easier to build if you have the necessary tools.

There are no physical pictures of the assembly or the machining process, but instead pretty drawings I did in Autodesk Inventor that are both better and worse than doing regular pictures. One thing I really hate about most writeups people do is the wall of pictures that are either terrible quality, millions of them, or both.

Like the first writeup, this is more of a "Build Guide", or a general reference to building one of these. If you're looking for step-by-step instructions, you're building the wrong blaster. However, if some things don't make sense or aren't clear, please complain about it.

The design for the ESLT is continually being changed and updated, and further iterations will be added to this post.

Printed Part Files

As a person involved with 3D printing, I always rage hard when people don't post a file that you can actually edit. Most people will post some stl's which are garbage if you have to modify even the slightest thing. In response to that, I'm hosting both .stp files and .stl files so if you have some modeling software that can import stp's, then you can actually edit parts if you have to.

To download .stp files, right click the link and select "Save Link As" and name the file with the extension ".stp".

Download Here


Parts List

Download Parts List Here:
Available in Microsoft Excel (.xls)

Or viewable in plain text (for copy/pasta) on MostlyHarmlessArms.com

Essential Tools
-3D Printer w/ no less than 7x7x7" print area
-Scrollsaw or Hacksaw
-Drill press and/or power drill
-Dremel w/ cutting wheel or Mill/Scrollsaw
-7/64”, 5/32", .260" (or slightly over .250), 1/2", 5/8" drill bits
-#6-32 tapping bit
-#10-24 tapping bit
-1/4-20 tap and die set
-5/16-18 tapping bit
-Scissors and/or file
-Screwdriver
-Countersink (Any size, really)
-Hot glue and/or super glue
-Duct tape
-Silicone lube
-Safety glasses
-Vise and/or wrench
-Tape measure, ruler

Very helpful, not critical:
-Mill
-Tube holding jigs
-Hole marking jigs
-Lathe
-Chimo Cheese
-Belt Sander (stock)

Printing your Components

PrintedParts.jpg

MainHandleZPrint - 0.6mm nozzle, 5 perimeters, 30% infill - This is the part of the handle you physically hold and is the biggest print on the blaster. There are two ways to do this. You can do it vertically, like I have here, or you can do it in two halves and glue them together. If people don't have printers that can print up to 160mm in the Z axis, you'll need to do them in halves. If you have a finer nozzle (less than 0.5), you should also do them in halves. Layer adhesion is the weakest point on parts that come off these printers, so extra/thicker perimeters are a must if printing vertically. Post-print you'll have to tap the two holes (#6) at the top of the print where it attaches to the HandleClamp. You also may need to drill out the three holes (#6 clearance), where it attaches to the FrontHandlePiece.

FrontHandlePiece - 0.6 nozzle, 3 perimeters, 30% infill - This is probably the most challenging print on the blaster. They are pretty long (175mm) and will warp at least a little bit unless you really have your settings on your printer super fine tuned. I've found adding lots of brim helps, especially adding brim to your model so the brim is actually attached to the printed part for a layer or two. Post-print you'll need to tap the two holes (#6) where it attaches to the HandleClamp. You also may want to drill out the two holes (#6 clearance), where the CatchPiece and Trigger are mounted.

CatchPiece; CatchInterface - 0.6mm nozzle, 3 perimeters, 100% infill - The CatchPiece is basically the catch of the blaster (hence the name), where the CatchInterface is more like the "catch notch" in a normal blaster. These two pieces need to be 100% infill since they see a lot of wear during use. Having a larger nozzle isn't critical, but it does make for faster printing. Post-print you'll need to tap (1/4) the only hole on this piece.

Trigger3DPrint/Mirror - 0.6 nozzle, 3 perimeters, 30% infill - These don't really don't matter how they're printed. You'll need to glue the two piece together after they are printed. After they're glued together, drill out the hole (#6 clearance).

ReDirectPiece - 0.6 nozzle, 3 perimeters, 100% infill - We recently started making these solid because of some people having problems with them breaking in particular blasters. It didn't happen a lot, but it's better to be safe when it comes to this piece. It's centrally located in the blaster, making replacement pretty difficult without taking the whole blaster apart. After it's printed, drill out the holes for the CPVC stub, and the Rod Seal with a 5/8" drill bit. You want this piece to be somewhat loose in your Plunger tube. Hammering/tight fits are not good when it comes to this piece.

PumpGripSpacer(x2) - 0.35 nozzle, 1-2 perimeter, 100% infill - These are very thin, tall pieces, that benefit from having a smaller nozzle. They have to be large enough to fit inside the 1.5" Reducing Tee, but small enough on the inside diameter, to pass over the 1 1/4" PVC.

EyeboltAdapter - 0.6mm nozzle, 3 perimeter, 100% infill - The Eyebolt Adpater needs to be strong and is a quick print with a larger nozzle. Post-print, you'll have to tap one end with a #10-24 tap, and the other end with a 1/4-20 tap.

BarrelSpacer - 0.6mm nozzle, 4 perimeters, 30% infill - These don't really need to be this large, but we like the look and how it holds the barrel very tight.

ESLTPlungerHead (Front/Rear) - 0.6mm nozzle, 3 perimeters, 100% infill - More information on these can be found here. You'll need to tap both holes for the plunger rod, post-print.

WyeSpacer - 0.6mm nozzle, 3 perimeters, 30% infill - Also another print that doesn't have to meet any specifications. This print simply gives you a wedge in between the wye and the front tube to tape the barrel assembly from wobbling.

StockFlange (optional) - 0.6mm nozzle, 3 perimeters, 30% infill - If you have a printer you might as well do this piece. It attaches the plunger tube to an HDPE sheet which is hot glued to a piece of foam, for comfort. This is a highly recommended add.

Tube & Rod Machining

1InchPVCPrimingTubeDimensions.jpg

The Priming tube is the linkage from the PumpGrip that pushes on the CatchInterface, which pushes back the plunger rod. The top slot doesn't need to exist, but it's easier to do on a scrollsaw like that. You can also Dremel or mill it, but you only need the bottom slot. The holes should be 7/64" or a #6 pilot, and need to be tapped afterwards. These need to be fairly centered holes so the 1" is mounted centrally inside the 1 1/4" front tube.

125InchPVCPlungerTubeDimensions.jpg

Make sure your PVC is smooth on the inside. The majority of PVC we encounter is very bumpy and awful on the inside, creating unnecessary friction and a shitty seal. Fitting your Redirect piece to this can be kind of tricky but you want to make sure it's a loose-ish fit in the tube. More information on that assembly will be explained later. The holes are easier to drill after you've inserted and attached your ReDirectPiece unless you have super tooling (you don't), so don't drill these yet.

125InchPVCFrontTubeDimensions.jpg

The biggest tube to machine, and requires some pretty long slots. We do these on a mill, but a scrollsaw is probably the next best option, followed by a Dremel, which is pretty terrible. The slot should be at least 3/8" wide, if they are centered. If they're off, they'll like need to be oversized. The holes should also be #6 pilot holes and drilled after you've assembled some stuff. Again, this will be explained more later. The larger hole in the front is 1/2" in diameter which holds the spring post. You'll also need a slot on the bottom for the CatchPiece to clear, which should be around 1/2" wide.

150InchPVCClampDimensions.jpg

These are basically a tube cut almost in half, leaving one side to be a little more than a half tube. This will clamp over/slide over your 1 1/4" tubes, and connect your handle to them. It needs a 1/2" slot in the bottom, with 5/32" or #6 clearance holes to attach to the handle. They also need to be countersunk. The holes near the top of the clamp should be #6 clearance holes, and you should drill them before cutting the tube in half.

BarrelDimensions.jpg

Pretty straightforward here, make sure you chamfer the CPVC/PVC barrel combo to allow a smooth feed for the the darts. Instead of using a CPVC coupler, you can also use a length of 1/2" PVC drilled out to 5/8". Make sure you super glue your CPVC/PVC barrel combo because you don't want that coming un-done.

PlungerRodDimensions.jpg

This can be a difficult piece to machine. Cutting it to length is pretty easy, but making the threads will be difficult unless you have special tooling. We're probably going to sell a plunger rod machining kit, with the necessary printed parts to make this a much easier process. More on this later.

If you don't want the super tooling, you'll have to cut the aluminum rod to 11.5", and use a die to cut threads 1.5" long on both sides. During this process you'll have to figure out a way to vise the rod without damaging it, and when you're actually turning the die to cut the threads, you have to make sure you're not bending the rod. Both of these will cause major issues later, mostly the plunger rod having tons of unnecessary friction.

StubsandMiscDimensions.jpg

These are just small bits that you'll need later on. The holes on the 1 1/4", 1" Pumpgrip tubes, you'll drill these later. The hole for the spring post should be 5/32" diameter, and roughly .25" away from the top.

Super glue the CPVC/PVC wye stub. You need this to stay together when you press fit the Barrel Assembly together.

Handle Assembly

HandleAssemblyExploded.jpg

Now onto the major assemblies. Most important and easiest, is the Handle Assembly. It's pretty straightforward from the drawing here, and everything should go together nicely. Your spring length should be roughly the same as the Catch Spring Rod.

Front Tube Assembly

FrontTubeAssembly.jpg

This can all be left un-assembled until later. It's really just here for a reference.

PumpGrip Assembly

PumpGripAssemblyExploded.jpg

This assembly must be done inside the 1 1/4" Front Tube. You'll need to drill holes in the side of the PVC Reducing tee, that line line up with the PumpGripSpacers. There is no easy way to get these holes lined up without special tooling, but you can just drill them a bit oversized so the screws will pass through. These two sets of holes, and the holes in 1" Priming tube should all line up, and you'll secure it with the #6-32 x 5/8" long screws.

For the bottom grip portion of the Reducing tee, nest your stub of 1" PVC inside your stub of 1 1/4". You'll need about 1-2 duct tape rings for it to stay centered and not wobble. Drill one 7/64" hole straight through the Reducing tee and 1", and then below it another hole through the 1 1/4" and 1". Tap these two holes (#6) and put in the two set screws, making them flush with the grip.


Barrel Assembly

BarrelDimensions.jpg

This is self-explanatory as well. It's not necessary to glue any of these pieces together.

Plunger Rod Assembly

PlungerRodAssemblyExploded.jpg

When you assemble the Plunger Rod, only do the back side of it first, containing the plunger head. The rod seal and ReDirect Piece need to go in between this assembly.

Plunger Tube Assembly

ReDirect-PlungerTubeAssembly.jpg

This is the step where you'll need your hot glue gun. Your ReDirectPiece should be loose in the Plunger tube, so add a small line of hot glue around where it's being inserted into the tube. Push that in all the way until the Plunger tube butts up against the top of the ReDirectPiece.

The nylon spacers should be super glued inside the polyester tubing, with the o-ring in between, obviously. This is your rod seal. You don't need to glue the rod seal inside the ReDirectPiece. This should be a nice press fit. Same goes for the CPVC stub, but if it doesn't seal, use a little hot glue here as well.

During the Final Assembly, you'll drill the holes you need to secure this assembly to the rest of the blaster. Right now, you should have no holes in the ReDirectPiece, or the Plunger tube.

Stock Assembly

FoamStockOptional.jpg

The shape of the foam piece and stock plate are really up to the user's preference. Make sure you drill speed holes after you've put the stock on the plunger tube. Your blaster won't work otherwise. Just use the 5/32" bit and drill 3-4 holes through the side of the flange and the plunger tube to allow air to pass through when firing.

Final Blaster Assembly

FinalAssemblyStep1.jpg

We're to the final assemblies, and now you'll be drilling all the holes I told you to wait on. First you'll want to attach your PumpGrip assembly to the Front Tube. Put the 1" Priming tube inside the Front Tube, followed by the Reducing Tee over it, and then slide in your PumpGripSpacers, lining up all the holes between the 1" Priming Tube, PumpGripSpacers, and Reducing Tee. Assembly with 5/8" long screws. Make sure the screws on the PumpGrip are facing towards the front of the blaster.

You can now drill out your 7/64" holes that are in the side of the Front Tube. Mark the holes by using the existing holes in the HandleClamp, making sure the slots (side and bottom), are lined up with the Handle Assembly. Tap these holes and secure with 1/4" screws. You can now put on the BarrelSpacer, but still leave off the Spring Post.

FinalAssemblyStep2.jpg

Before you put in your plunger rod, clamp on the Plunger Tube Assembly on the back of the HandleClamp, lining it up with the holes already drilled in the HandleClamp. Make sure your ReDirectPiece is pointed straight up, so the Barrel Assembly is all straight and square. The holes should be 3/8" from the edge of the plunger tube. Mark these holes in your Plunger tube, and drill through the Plunger tube and ReDirectPiece with a 7/64" bit. Tap and deburr the holes.

Insert your plunger rod into the Plunger Tube Assembly, and attach the front end of the Plunger Rod Assembly that I told you you'll put on later. Make sure you lube up the Plunger tube and it doesn't hurt to also lube the rod seal.

Attach the Plunger tube assembly to the rest of the blaster using the holes you just drilled, and 3/4" long screws. The screws should stick out slightly past the ID of the ReDirectPiece, although you'll have no idea unless your blaster is clear.

I don't have this part modeled, but make sure you have your extension spring or latex tubing is already attached to the Eyebolt when putting this assembly in the rest of the blaster. You can now put in the Spring Post, through the barrel spacer, securing it with a 1" long screw. Obviously make sure the other loop of the extension spring goes through the Spring Post. There should be a small amount of pretension with the extension spring.

FinalAssemblyStep3.jpg

Now you can put on your stock of choice, secure it how you'd like, and add the Barrel Assembly. The aluminum barrel will clamp very tightly inside the barrel spacer. Make sure everything is lined up, add your WyeSpacer, and use duct tape to secure your Barrel Assembly, preventing the wye from moving side to side. If you'd like to make it more permanent, feel free, but I like to keep the Barrel Assembly still easily replaceable.

FinalAssemblyComplete.jpg


Questions, comments, flames, please post...


Check Valve/O-ring Plunger Head

05 June 2014 - 03:04 PM

Background:

About a month back, Kane realized we could use the same concept T da B used in his Ported Piston Plunger Head, and create a version that was 3d printed.

Kane then made a version for the Aabow, and it worked very well.

VUrqIBo.jpg

Revolutionizing Plunger Heads

I used almost the exact same thing for the ESLT Blasters.

esltphcollage.jpg

I guess it works slightly different than T da B's, since it relies on the o-ring sealing against the back of the plunger head, instead of covering the holes for it to seal. While it's priming, the o-ring slides to the front of the plunger head, allowing air to pass from the front, to the rear, through the super air channels, bypassing the seal. In this 3d model, you can see the invisible air channels that accomplish this.

plungerheadinternalview.jpg

When the blaster is fired, the o-ring seals against the back of the plunger head, making the holes for the check valve irrelevant, since they're in front of the seal, and the o-ring seals against the back of the plunger head.

These work phenomenally well, and will be used on our blasters whenever possible. As far as I can tell, this gets as good of a seal as anything, and is a hundred times less expensive than a skirt seal. Total cost for one plunger head is less than a dollar including the printed parts and the hardware required for it to work.

Forward-Style Plunger Head

Since most people (p much e'rybody) don't build bullpups, or ESLT style blasters, we figured there would be more of use to everyone else if we made something for most traditional homemades.

pbphcollage.jpg

These are yet to be tested, but work exactly the same as Kane's earlier version, and the current ESLT version. The plunger head is mounted with one #6-32 x 3/4" Flathead screw, which requires a hole in the end of the plunger rod. I designed this one in particular for 1/2" plunger rods, since that seems to be most common. I would do a version to accept 5/8" diameter PRs, but this design won't allow for it with the tolerances needed for the air channels. There is definitely a way to do it differently, and I'll eventually explore this.

========================

Conclusions:

I don't really see any disadvantages to this design, if you have a 3D printer obviously. If you'd like to pad your plunger head (which you should) from slamming into whatever it slams into, just glue/affix/leave a piece of rubber wherever your plunger head hits. If you add padding directly to the plunger head, you'll cover up the check-valve holes, and the whole plunger head will fail at it's purpose. For the ESLTs, I've been using rubber washers that just get wedged inside the plunger tube and rest on the redirect piece.

These so far seem as durable as anything else I've used for plunger heads, but time will tell. We've been using 3d printed plunger heads for over a year now, and haven't seen any problems with them degrading over time. These aren't really too much different from the normal ones we used to print, and in fact are stronger because we decided they might as well be printed with solid infill.

If you want to be one of the cool people who would like to acquire one, they are available pretty cheap on our Sales Thread.

If you want to be cooler and just print it on your printer, here are the files.

File Downloads

Download Stp Files Here

Parts List
ESLT Style
9452K36
90273A151 x2

Forward Style
9452K36
90273A151 x3


Chano 5 - Chicagoland War

19 August 2013 - 01:17 PM

When:

Saturday, October 5th, 2013 - 12:00 pm - 5:30pm

Where:

County Highway 1 (W Fox Rd.)
Yorkville, IL
GPS coordinates:
41.624088,-88.493586


View this map with a detailed legend in a larger window.



Posted Image

Darts:
-Most/all of the ammo will be provided by us. These will most likely be predominantly molded silicone dome darts. More information on these can be found here and here. These either require special hoppers, or cornstarch to feed. We'll have a giant bag of corn starch so you don't have to worry about bringing it.
-You're welcome to bring your own darts as long as they are the aforementioned dome darts or some variation. For this war I'm going to say don't plan on using AMIORS. You're welcome to bring them, but unless some super crisis happens and our darts get stolen, we'd like to stick to domes only for the homemade ammo.
-Stock darts (unmodified) are obviously allowed. Kane has a large stash of dart tag darts you'll be able to use.
-Bring big ammo if you have it. We'll be running some defend the core rounds.
-Mini marshmallows are allowed as long as it's a fresh unopened package. We plan on having many HAMPs for these. If you want to use marshmallows, bring some 1/2" thinwall to use as a clip.
-If you have something unique please check will us before the war to see if they're cool.

What to bring:
-Friends
-Nerf/non-nerf blasters are allowed, but homemades are generally what most people use. If you don't have anything, we'll have extras to loan out.
-Eye Protection, if you're not wearing any, you don't play. We'll also probably have loaner glasses but don't count on it.
-Water
-Sunscreen/bug spray
-Snacks. We won't be doing the typical schedule by having a lunch break in the middle of the war. You'll probably get hungry as you play, so bring something to munch on. Make sure you show up having already ate.

What not to bring:
-Slug darts, Glue domes, or any non-approved ammo.
-Air guns with an air tank larger than a Big Blast unless using them with multiple barrels/big ammo. All blasters must have working over-pressure release valves. Bike pumps do not count. Homemade air guns will probably be determined on a case-by-case basis, but honestly I've never seen one that is worth using or legal. Blasters like Kane's 7-11 are an example of a good war legal air gun. It cannot be over pumped.
-Springers should have less than 7" of draw assuming 1 1/4" PVC is your plunger tube. This really depends on the efficiency of your blaster so there will be some discretion by myself or Kane to determine what is or isn't safe. If it's any more powerful than a +bow you can guarantee it'll be banned.
-Blasters that are painted black or realistic looking gun-stuff. It's Nerf, not milsim.
-Kids who are 13 years old must have their parent(s) present the entire time they are participating.

General Gameplay Rules
-A hit is defined as some legal projectile, fired from a player that is "alive" and wearing eye protection, strikes a player or a player's blaster. Ricochets are only counted as a hit with big ammo.
-Melee weapons can be used to block darts, but not large ammo. Anything larger than a stock dart is large ammo.
-Shields are allowed on a case-by-case basis, and only with the specific weapon that we approve it to be used with. Most melee/shield combos will be approved, few blaster/shield combos will be approved. Like swords, shields cannot block large ammo.
-Darts must be fired from a blaster of some sort, or blowgun, to be considered legal projectiles, but large ammo can be thrown.
-When hit, players must acknowledge the hit (a wave or verbal acknowledgement works here), and promptly return to the respawn point. Players may pick up ammo if it's on the way back, but are expected to make a reasonable effort not to obstruct players on either team.


Miscellaneous Information:
-No Deathmatch (you won't have to sit out)
-Barrel tapping is not allowed.
-Do not pick up or move mobstacles during a round, unless otherwise noted. These will be staked in.
-There are no bathrooms at the site.
-There is no where to poop so don't ask the neighbors if you can poop there.

Gametypes
Defend the Car
Carpe Testiculum
Attack/Defend
...maybe others

There will be variations of the games we're playing but this is a good thread to read if you're new.

Defend the Car Points:

Dome darts - 1
Stock darts - 5
Disc ammo - 10
Balls, Missiles - 25
Titan Rockets or similar - 50
Other stuff - ask


=================================================================

BEFORE YOU LEAVE - Clean up all your shit and help pick up darts. Tearing down and setting up mobstacles is always appreciated.

Attendance List:
RyanMcNumbers (host)
KanetheMediocre (host)
cheerios (host)
snickers (dartmaster)
Beaver
bobbo
AcepilotZero
evilalec555

Maybes:
Zorn