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Caliburn: Mag-fed Pump-action Springer

Mag-Fed Pump-Action Springer Homemade

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#51 CaptainSlug

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Posted 06 March 2017 - 05:02 PM

/u/RazgrizInferno is mostly done with his. I only supplied him the Front Tube and parts for the bolt. He helped proof-read the construction write-up as well.

 

YUeNuyd.jpg

 

And the update I have to add for myself is the hardware for the trigger. I switched to a lock-nut on the right side of the trigger in place of the spacers. I also replaced the trigger link piece with a length of weld rod with a hook bent into each end.

 

rs_32.jpg

 

This setup works just a hair better and it means you don't have to thread-lock the screws for the trigger link anymore.


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#52 Silly

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Posted 07 March 2017 - 07:17 AM

I think this has been asked before, but is the PVC with the holes (attached to the plunger head) needed?
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#53 CaptainSlug

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Posted 07 March 2017 - 07:54 AM

The holes aren't important and are only there to reduce overall plunger weight. But the part itself is vital for keeping the plunger aligned and concentric with the plunger tube. It greatly improves the reliability of the catch setup.


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#54 shardbearer

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Posted 08 March 2017 - 04:37 AM

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It seems like the zip with your Solidworks files is corrupted? A bunch of the files won't extract.

Couldn't you make the front grip ring from the same 1/4" sheet as the rest of the parts? And what about making the Bolt Core out of sheets like you did with the plunger head, eliminating a machined part?

Edit: I see the front grip ring is already in the templates, so I guess that answers that question. Here's a cross section I made with the STEP file that was pretty useful in understanding how everything works.
1NebGCX.png


Edited by shardbearer, 08 March 2017 - 05:31 AM.

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#55 CaptainSlug

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Posted 08 March 2017 - 07:28 AM

The Bolt Core COULD be made out of sheet parts, however you would need to have 1/16", 1/8", and 1/4" sheets to do so. And you would probably want to superglue those parts together before pinning them to the ramrod.

 

I've found some tubing sizes that could be used to make the ramrod, but have not yet tried to do so.

 

I do have extra CNC'd ramrods and bolt cores if anyone would like one.


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#56 shardbearer

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Posted 08 March 2017 - 01:40 PM

I do have access to a lathe so it's not a big deal to make the machined parts, I just thought it might be easier. You couldn't use the same method as the plunger head, two 1/4" thick discs, 1-1/8" and 7/8" in diameter? 


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#57 CaptainSlug

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Posted 08 March 2017 - 03:17 PM

The plunger head can be made that way because those parts are sandwiched by the screw that goes through the center of them. There's really no room for screws inside the bolt core segment, so you'll have to glue together a couple sheet parts if you want to make one that way.


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#58 Geric2004

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Posted 11 March 2017 - 11:22 PM

Hi Slug. I've been trying to learn how to make Nerf guns in Fusion 360 but the files that you uploaded seem corrupted because windows can't extract them to a folder. (Fusion 360 can open Solidworks files)


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#59 CaptainSlug

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 07:02 PM

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Use the STEP file until I can get the solidworks file set fixed.

 

002 and 003 made it safely to Singapore through an export agent.

 

Colorblind test prints check out.
rs3_19.jpg
rs3_20.jpg
"Charlotte" is a very homely yet sturdy thing

rs3_21.jpg


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#60 Silly

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Posted 21 March 2017 - 09:58 AM

Damn those are pretty. Do you plan to do more parts printed, or is this it for printed bits?
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#61 CaptainSlug

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Posted 21 March 2017 - 10:17 AM

I'm planning to make a ton of these blasters through printing or casting over the next year. Just have to put one together, test it, then make revisions.


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#62 Meaker VI

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Posted 21 March 2017 - 03:04 PM

Looks really good!


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#63 Geric2004

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Posted 22 March 2017 - 12:51 AM

Hey Captain Slug!

I'm about to get a 3d printer. I'l try to test Caliburn. Also Is there a possibility of a more 3d printer friendly model? (More just 3d printer plastic)


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#64 CaptainSlug

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Posted 22 March 2017 - 07:08 AM

Hey Captain Slug!

I'm about to get a 3d printer. I'l try to test Caliburn. Also Is there a possibility of a more 3d printer friendly model? (More just 3d printer plastic)

Lucian already made the leap and provided me with some printed PLA parts to do a test build. Once I have this one put together and tested I will make a fully-tested 3D-printing file set and a hardware part list available.

 

The only part that cannot be printed at present and has to be machined is the bolt assembly. But I'm working on trying to offer those as a cast part for a low price, or see if I can use 10mm OD HARD Nylon tubing to make a pseudo-printed version. The ones I have at present are CNC machined. It may not be feasible without impacting performance, which isn't a compromise I want to make.

 

I will end up with three version of this blaster. One Machined, One Printed, and One Cast. The Printed and Cast version will be cross-compatible so you can swap parts between them.


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#65 Meaker VI

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Posted 22 March 2017 - 01:35 PM

Hey Captain Slug!

I'm about to get a 3d printer. I'l try to test Caliburn. Also Is there a possibility of a more 3d printer friendly model? (More just 3d printer plastic)

 

Slug answered, but the cast/printed version should be very printer-friendly. We'd need to ask Lucian to see how the actual prints went but I see them sitting there so obviously it worked one way or another. Once he makes it available you'll probably need an 7x7x7 build plate and a few hundred grams of filament; plan for half a spool and if it goes perfectly you'll use less.


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#66 CaptainSlug

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Posted 22 March 2017 - 03:10 PM

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Raise your hand if you like RAILS.

rs3_22.jpg

Work apparently has some leftover Platinum molding silicone so I'm going to make a mold or two this week for some of the simpler parts I haven't had to revise.

 

I figured out how to make a 2-part mold for the mag well and that necessitated some changes that mushed up the styling so I had to reprofile it and the grip in a new pattern. So the lettering has been moved to the mag well.

 

The test print of the foregrip also lacked some vertical girth and was promoting weird hand-hold positions. So it gets a 5-point underside rail and a slight profile adjustment.

 

The grip has been split into 3-parts so that it will print much easier and subsequently be much MUCH easier to cast. The print orientation means that even a low infill percentage print of these parts should be more than strong enough.

rs3_23.jpg

 

It seems that the only part left to annoy me is the stock reducer. The cast part is going to have to be FAT if I want to make it from a one-sided mold and it really can't be avoided. So the printed version of that part will be slightly cooler looking as a result.

 

Time to order some supplies. Then I get to make 16 molds


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#67 Geric2004

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 12:26 AM

 

Slug answered, but the cast/printed version should be very printer-friendly. We'd need to ask Lucian to see how the actual prints went but I see them sitting there so obviously it worked one way or another. Once he makes it available you'll probably need an 7x7x7 build plate and a few hundred grams of filament; plan for half a spool and if it goes perfectly you'll use less.

 

I'll be getting this printer: http://www.ebay.ph/i...0IAAOSw32lYpqJZ

 

The buildplate seems big enough to print.

 

Raise your hand if you like RAILS.

 

Work apparently has some leftover Platinum molding silicone so I'm going to make a mold or two this week for some of the simpler parts I haven't had to revise.

 

I figured out how to make a 2-part mold for the mag well and that necessitated some changes that mushed up the styling so I had to reprofile it and the grip in a new pattern. So the lettering has been moved to the mag well.

 

The test print of the foregrip also lacked some vertical girth and was promoting weird hand-hold positions. So it gets a 5-point underside rail and a slight profile adjustment.

 

The grip has been split into 3-parts so that it will print much easier and subsequently be much MUCH easier to cast. The print orientation means that even a low infill percentage print of these parts should be more than strong enough.

 

 

It seems that the only part left to annoy me is the stock reducer. The cast part is going to have to be FAT if I want to make it from a one-sided mold and it really can't be avoided. So the printed version of that part will be slightly cooler looking as a result.

 

Time to order some supplies. Then I get to make 16 molds

 

*RAISES HANDS UP FURIOUSLY* Yes master, please more "Tacti-Cool" Rails.

 

Oh and also I've been thinking why not add a dc motor or servo to automatically prime the blaser?


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#68 CaptainSlug

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 09:23 AM

Getting a mold set together is going to take a while. I likely won't have a "pre-production" blaster done until mid-April. I might be able to get the 3D-printed prototype (Lucian prints) put together just to check part fit and tolerances this weekend. Though I am moving slow because of a cold.

 

 

Oh and also I've been thinking why not add a dc motor or servo to automatically prime the blaser?

Cost, weight, and complexity.

 

All of the above are things I don't want to add. If I want automatic or semi-automatic then the route to take would be flywheels or HPA. Not a spring plunger.


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#69 Geric2004

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 10:36 AM

Getting a mold set together is going to take a while. I likely won't have a "pre-production" blaster done until mid-April. I might be able to get the 3D-printed prototype (Lucian prints) put together just to check part fit and tolerances this weekend. Though I am moving slow because of a cold.

 

Cost, weight, and complexity.

 

All of the above are things I don't want to add. If I want automatic or semi-automatic then the route to take would be flywheels or HPA. Not a spring plunger.

Thanks for the reply! I'm thinking of Printing the Caliburn in PETG and Nylon.


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#70 Meaker VI

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 03:49 PM

Thanks for the reply! I'm thinking of Printing the Caliburn in PETG and Nylon.

 

The added difficulty in printing more exotic stuff probably isn't necessary. Slug's been working to figure out this printed design that is *supposed* to take all the dangerous force off the printed parts. It sounds like he hasn't finished testing it yet, but it should be ok in PLA. The biggest thing I'm worried about is the handle, and even that's been reinforced and changed abit so it may be resolved from the earlier versions I saw.


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#71 Hardly Ideal

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 06:46 PM

I guess I'll need to try this after I get my wonky +bow to behave again.

 

Before I dive into it, I see in the part list that it uses a 9637K26 for the main spring, but would a [k25] work? I'd rather not buy another bag of parts for a build that may or may not work.

 

Also, I hope you'll forgive me for tweaking things if I get around to making one. A new pump handle and a rail or two, at least.

 

And triangles. Everything looks cooler with triangles.


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...are you sure this thing is on?


#72 Meaker VI

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 09:07 PM

Before I dive into it, I see in the part list that it uses a 9637K26 for the main spring, but would a [k25] work? I'd rather not buy another bag of parts for a build that may or may not work.

 

Should be fine, they are usually swappable. [k25] is slightly larger OD, slightly weaker draw IIRC.


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#73 Geric2004

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 09:09 PM

 

The added difficulty in printing more exotic stuff probably isn't necessary. Slug's been working to figure out this printed design that is *supposed* to take all the dangerous force off the printed parts. It sounds like he hasn't finished testing it yet, but it should be ok in PLA. The biggest thing I'm worried about is the handle, and even that's been reinforced and changed abit so it may be resolved from the earlier versions I saw.

 

I just bought the printer today. GearBest (Website I bought it from) DHL would be able to ship it to me in 3-7 days. Once I get it I'll try Caliburn in PLA and ABS.


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#74 CaptainSlug

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Posted 25 March 2017 - 01:46 PM

would a K25 work?

Of course. The design accepts either.

 

Another Caliburn has been built. He decided to try making the Front Tube out of clear polycarbonate and it seems to work fine for him.

https://drive.google...DQ3RGFKcW8/view


Edited by CaptainSlug, 27 March 2017 - 02:28 PM.
Video and note

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#75 dskippy

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Posted 29 March 2017 - 04:02 PM

This is amazing, CaptainSlug. Well done. I've been wanting to build a mag-fed, pump-action blaster for a while. Thanks for the great write up. I might try to implement this.

 

I have a question about the plunger rod. I notice you're goal is to reduce inner cuts with the scroll saw. Effectively reducing the difficulty in making the blaster. Inner cuts can definitely be pretty annoying to accomplish. But the rod plunger rod is also tricky because you need access to a machine lathe. I like to use square plunger rods because they're easier to make. They can be cut with a scroll saw and they don't rotate so they only need a notch on one side. I wonder if you've ever considered a reuleaux triangle drill bit. They allow you to drill square holes. Since the plunger rod is only one size, you'd only need one special reuleaux bit for the whole project. This might enable you to use a square rod and eliminate the machine lathe process.

 

I ask this mostly because I am considering doing just just if I duplicate your design. Not necessarily to try to sway you toward square rods yourself. I'm wondering if you have thought of this and think there's some reason to go with the round rod anyway or was it just not considered?

 

The reuleaux bit is a really nice solution that I think should be more well known in the NerfHaven community. There's a lot of square holes out there being cut with scroll saws. In general, most plunger rods are the same size too, so most nerfers would only need one bit total in their shop. I actually use an X-Carve CNC for my templated cuts so square is really not a big deal for me anyway.

 

Well thanks for the great write up! Looking forward to seeing any tweaks you make to it.


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