Thank you Langley. I will attend to that location shortly as well.
If anyone has anything else constructive, please comment.
Possemhunter's Content
There have been 110 items by Possemhunter (Search limited from 27-December 96)
#319109 A handy dandy pistol
Posted by
on 24 July 2012 - 04:02 PM
in
Homemades
#319084 A handy dandy pistol
Posted by
on 24 July 2012 - 10:55 AM
in
Homemades
I just want people to stop using the wrong materials. This community of homemade builders has matured a lot in the last couple of years. Collaboration has become the norm, and we are coming up with some awesome stuff because of it. But use of metals makes homemade shift toward paintball and airsoft, rather than nerf. They have their place, specifically in pressurized applications, but otherwise are overkill.
Why care what its made of? It still shoots foam and is never going to wear out or break on me. Plastics get brittle. Metal will not in this situation.
There is lots of pressure on these parts anyway. Maybe not air pressure, but a spring.
For me, this was a chance to test out new tools and materials. I think everyone should try to get the most out of their capabilities and tools. The material was also free. The aluminum came from scrap lawn mower engines that were poured into castings. The waste sprues became my stock for turning.
#319078 A handy dandy pistol
Posted by
on 24 July 2012 - 09:19 AM
in
Homemades
I got out my tape measures and took some test shots after lubing the gun. I lubed to plunger of course as well as the spring rest where the plunger rod is guided.
Taggers that fit a bit loose were going about 53 feet.
My very poorly made stefans from years ago were going 55 feet.
The best darts I have right now (just getting back into nerf) are cut down streamlines. They are 2.5 inches long and fit very snugly. I ramrodded those down the barrel. Shots were consistently hitting and passing 83 feet. These streamlines do not have the obnoxiously large hole in them for some reason ( just a pinprick that was loaded facing upwards), so they were quite accurate. There was no erratic flight path. I think I could easily hit someone that far away.
I'm very happy with 83 feet from this pistol. A better plunger rod would no doubt get me into the 90's.
To give some more specs I will say that the draw is 2.25 inches. The spring is a replacement from Joseph Fazzio's, the most amazing hardware store/ steel depot/ industrial supplier ever. I might have the package somewhere for a part number.
Taggers that fit a bit loose were going about 53 feet.
My very poorly made stefans from years ago were going 55 feet.
The best darts I have right now (just getting back into nerf) are cut down streamlines. They are 2.5 inches long and fit very snugly. I ramrodded those down the barrel. Shots were consistently hitting and passing 83 feet. These streamlines do not have the obnoxiously large hole in them for some reason ( just a pinprick that was loaded facing upwards), so they were quite accurate. There was no erratic flight path. I think I could easily hit someone that far away.
I'm very happy with 83 feet from this pistol. A better plunger rod would no doubt get me into the 90's.
To give some more specs I will say that the draw is 2.25 inches. The spring is a replacement from Joseph Fazzio's, the most amazing hardware store/ steel depot/ industrial supplier ever. I might have the package somewhere for a part number.
#319075 Pipe Coping
Posted by
on 24 July 2012 - 07:16 AM
in
Homemades
I like that. I do some welding so this will be very useful. Thanks for posting.
#319063 A handy dandy pistol
Posted by
on 23 July 2012 - 10:29 PM
in
Homemades
You could easily replace most of that steel plunger rod with aluminum, particularly if you turned it so two aluminum pieces threaded into a steel catch piece.
I also strongly suggest you try 4568T14 as a barrel material. The tolerances are much tighter, it's hard anodized (pretty), and 6063 is actually really nice to turn, if you have carbide tooling to break the anodized layer. The hole is also held concentric to the OD, unlike CPVC or the other common aluminum barrel material from McMaster. I use 6" of each on my aluminum barrels, press-fit together, and it works like a charm.
You could also invest a little in some Mother's aluminum polish and spin your parts up to 1500-2000 RPM on a lathe, then hold a piece of a paper towel with polish on it against the part, as you would with emery cloth. It gives an almost mirror finish. Automotive wax will protect that finish and prevent oxidation.
That is and idea, to thread a steel piece in. I will try to suck every bit of efficiency else where first, but I'll remember this. Heavy plunger rods never help.
I am only using HSS bits. I have heard that if you get under the layer in one pass, any bit will work. Is this true?
The catch does work extremely well. It takes up very little space and isn't prone to breaking at all. Since the catch lays flat against the spring rest, that takes all the force from both sides, which makes for a VERY sturdy build. Spring pushes against one side and catch against the other.
#319052 A handy dandy pistol
Posted by
on 23 July 2012 - 07:25 PM
in
Homemades
Like I said, it breaks 50 feet because its passing an object I know to be 50 feet away. It is going much further.
Oh, another note, all of my stefans have been eaten by the lawnmower...
My plan for the plunger is to thread it and and turn a nice, easy-to-grip knob. Maybe I will knurl it. The possibilities are endless.
The catch:
Why its sideways, I know not.
Instead of the vertical motion of a conventional catch, this one pivots out of the way to the side.
Hope that helps.
Oh, another note, all of my stefans have been eaten by the lawnmower...
My plan for the plunger is to thread it and and turn a nice, easy-to-grip knob. Maybe I will knurl it. The possibilities are endless.
The catch:
Why its sideways, I know not.
Instead of the vertical motion of a conventional catch, this one pivots out of the way to the side.
Hope that helps.
#319047 A handy dandy pistol
Posted by
on 23 July 2012 - 07:04 PM
in
Homemades
Hello all
Haven't been around for a while. Nerfing had been largely forgotten by me for a while. I got into machining, metal casting and other fun "big people" things.
But then I was given a Make magazine and saw their homemade launcher and decided to see if I could combine nerf and my new tools.
The result was a nice single shot pistol.
In the next one, you can sort of see the catch. I don't know if this type of catch has caught on yet or not, but a while ago, everyone still used clothespin catches. This catch is simple and dead reliable. A metal plate is just pulled inwards towards the plunger rod by the small spring. Pulling the trigger drives a wedge between the frame and the boot of the catch, pushing it out of the notch in the plunger rod.
Here is the plunger head and rod. Both were machined by me of course, along with everything else. The plunger is 3/8 steel. The rod is rather heavy, but I used a nice spring and the ranges are great anyway. I have made aluminum rods before, but the catch notch rounds over and becomes unreliable.
Here is the plunger assembly. The spring rest on the rear later had a shoulder machined into it to center the spring. The mounts for the catch and catch spring are drilled and tapped into the rear of that piece.
This is the barrel assembly. The forward center is recessed for the cpvc, so on one side I drilled it 17/64 for a dart, and on the other, 5/8 for the cpvc.
This is the rear center. It has one diameter turned that fits tightly into the 1" outer sheath, providing an airtight seal for the plunger tube to the rear. It was drilled through for the 5/8 cpvc, so that it could be coated with sealer and stay secure.
The barrel and the plunger all fit into 1" pvc, which for the purposes of explanation, I will call the upper receiver. This 1" PVC acts as the plunger tube and barrel sheath. It also provides the mounting points for the pieces.
The lower receiver...
Not much to look at. The grip is screwed on. I replaced those pictures screws with flatheads for the trigger plate to pass over.
Trigger and trigger plate. In this picture, the original mounting rivet was falling out. I re-drilled and tapped the hole for a small machine screw.
The business end. From dead on, you don't see the cpvc.
Other notes
All the centering pieces were drilled and tapped to mount to the 1" PVC. You can see all the screws along the top and bottom of the upper receiver.
The "sight" at the rear is held on by one of the same bolts that goes into the spring rest.
If you look at this picture again, you see the lug about midway, just where the lower receiver starts. This is 2 pieces of PVC solvent welded on. It gives a good spot for the lower receiver to attach.
If anyone wants more detail, please ask. I didn't make this a real writeup as you need a lathe to make most of the parts. From all the draconian measures that I see going on around here, I assume many of the users are about 12, and don't have lathes. But once again, if you would like more info, just ask.
Ranges haven't been officially measured. Shooting level, it breaks 50 feet easy with a good snug dart.
I will hopefully have some videos of the range test and construction up within a few days. Bandwidth permitting.
Questions, comments, concerns?
Haven't been around for a while. Nerfing had been largely forgotten by me for a while. I got into machining, metal casting and other fun "big people" things.
But then I was given a Make magazine and saw their homemade launcher and decided to see if I could combine nerf and my new tools.
The result was a nice single shot pistol.
In the next one, you can sort of see the catch. I don't know if this type of catch has caught on yet or not, but a while ago, everyone still used clothespin catches. This catch is simple and dead reliable. A metal plate is just pulled inwards towards the plunger rod by the small spring. Pulling the trigger drives a wedge between the frame and the boot of the catch, pushing it out of the notch in the plunger rod.
Here is the plunger head and rod. Both were machined by me of course, along with everything else. The plunger is 3/8 steel. The rod is rather heavy, but I used a nice spring and the ranges are great anyway. I have made aluminum rods before, but the catch notch rounds over and becomes unreliable.
Here is the plunger assembly. The spring rest on the rear later had a shoulder machined into it to center the spring. The mounts for the catch and catch spring are drilled and tapped into the rear of that piece.
This is the barrel assembly. The forward center is recessed for the cpvc, so on one side I drilled it 17/64 for a dart, and on the other, 5/8 for the cpvc.
This is the rear center. It has one diameter turned that fits tightly into the 1" outer sheath, providing an airtight seal for the plunger tube to the rear. It was drilled through for the 5/8 cpvc, so that it could be coated with sealer and stay secure.
The barrel and the plunger all fit into 1" pvc, which for the purposes of explanation, I will call the upper receiver. This 1" PVC acts as the plunger tube and barrel sheath. It also provides the mounting points for the pieces.
The lower receiver...
Not much to look at. The grip is screwed on. I replaced those pictures screws with flatheads for the trigger plate to pass over.
Trigger and trigger plate. In this picture, the original mounting rivet was falling out. I re-drilled and tapped the hole for a small machine screw.
The business end. From dead on, you don't see the cpvc.
Other notes
All the centering pieces were drilled and tapped to mount to the 1" PVC. You can see all the screws along the top and bottom of the upper receiver.
The "sight" at the rear is held on by one of the same bolts that goes into the spring rest.
If you look at this picture again, you see the lug about midway, just where the lower receiver starts. This is 2 pieces of PVC solvent welded on. It gives a good spot for the lower receiver to attach.
If anyone wants more detail, please ask. I didn't make this a real writeup as you need a lathe to make most of the parts. From all the draconian measures that I see going on around here, I assume many of the users are about 12, and don't have lathes. But once again, if you would like more info, just ask.
Ranges haven't been officially measured. Shooting level, it breaks 50 feet easy with a good snug dart.
I will hopefully have some videos of the range test and construction up within a few days. Bandwidth permitting.
Questions, comments, concerns?
#299129 RF20
Posted by
on 01 June 2011 - 02:56 PM
in
General Nerf
Ho Ho! I sense soem tension brewing! Fight Fight Fight! 
Plastic parts, especially those in nerf guns can be repaired with heat and pressure. They have plastic welding guns that essentially blow a hot stream of air over a focused point to remelt plastic. The most common place for these cracks is along the seam where they were molded. If the plastic is in fact to blame, I would hit it with a propane torch just enough to make it barely malty, then put your bladder or hose back in and squeeze it with a pair of pliers.
~Possum
Plastic parts, especially those in nerf guns can be repaired with heat and pressure. They have plastic welding guns that essentially blow a hot stream of air over a focused point to remelt plastic. The most common place for these cracks is along the seam where they were molded. If the plastic is in fact to blame, I would hit it with a propane torch just enough to make it barely malty, then put your bladder or hose back in and squeeze it with a pair of pliers.
~Possum
#298511 Establishing barrel length
Posted by
on 24 May 2011 - 03:29 PM
in
Modifications
If you use an airgun and are one of those people who likes to hide in bushes, taking pot shots, spray a load of wd40 in the barrel before shooting. Watch how far it goes.
#298417 Hey guys!
Posted by
on 22 May 2011 - 07:39 PM
in
General Nerf
Hey everyone! I haven't been on in a while, so just dropping by. The new site sure looks spiffy! Great job to whomever designed it. I applaud you good sirs!
Possum
Possum
#295665 Bs-12 Advanced Tactical Nerf Rifle
Posted by
on 09 March 2011 - 04:21 PM
in
Homemades
That's what happens when people with machine shops also nerf. No one compares to what you do.
What I find interesting is that I have literally come up with plans for a nerf gun that functions completely identically.
I'd have posted pictures of my designs but everyone hates idea threads around here, (which is one reason why I haven't been around here much lately.) I've just never been able to build them for lack of a metal lathe. I have access to a metal lathe now in school, so just maybe I'll take a shot at building something.
What I find interesting is that I have literally come up with plans for a nerf gun that functions completely identically.
I'd have posted pictures of my designs but everyone hates idea threads around here, (which is one reason why I haven't been around here much lately.) I've just never been able to build them for lack of a metal lathe. I have access to a metal lathe now in school, so just maybe I'll take a shot at building something.
#295398 Help! I Need Help Puting My Raider Back Together
Posted by
on 05 March 2011 - 04:11 PM
in
Modifications
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA! How long do you expect to live on these forums?
Oh and try THE NERFHAVEN INTERNALS DIRECTORY
Oh and try THE NERFHAVEN INTERNALS DIRECTORY
#294396 Too Much Friction
Posted by
on 11 February 2011 - 09:11 PM
in
Modifications
If there's that much friction, have you considered smaller o rings?
#290954 How To Expand A 2k Tank
Posted by
on 15 December 2010 - 06:39 PM
in
Modifications
You could probably compensate for the slower air delivery with longer barrels.
#283310 How To Re-compress Springs?
Posted by
on 17 August 2010 - 08:37 AM
in
Modifications
No it will not matter for a trigger spring and typically if you find the right pen, you can steal its spring. For main springs you just have to re-temper them in a forge which isn't hard if you know what you are doing. A blow torch could work as well.
#280714 Stampede: Leaked
Posted by
on 19 July 2010 - 06:46 PM
in
General Nerf
Okkkay... Wow I missed the other thread. I guess it must have been wearing camo. I can't believe its right on the front page too.
I misspoke. Apologies.
I misspoke. Apologies.
#280703 Stampede: Leaked
Posted by
on 19 July 2010 - 04:09 PM
in
General Nerf
OOOOOPPPSSSSIIIEESSSS
#279165 Nerf Sues Buzz Bee And Lanard!
Posted by
on 01 July 2010 - 01:39 PM
in
General Nerf
I find it funny that Buzz Bee headquarters is in my town of residence
#278882 Vacuum Forming And Nerf
Posted by
on 28 June 2010 - 02:42 PM
in
Homemades
I see a lot of potential with this idea, but it has one major drawback. The inside of those shells is sooo complicated with all the plugs for the screws and mounting points for internals. If you could find a way to replicate the inside, I would be very impressed. If you could use the piece you just made to make a plaster version as a negative mold and then make another negative mold for the inside, you could put the 2 halves together and pour molten plastic in with some sort of pressurizer to fill all the nooks in the mold. Complicated but if you could get the process down, easy. (hopefully)
#278500 Longshot Breech Questions
Posted by
on 24 June 2010 - 08:56 PM
in
Modifications
I would like to say that I made the standard angel breech with a 17/32 insert for smaller darts. You just need to make sure that the 1/2 inch pusher will not be touching the 17/32 piece. With this system you can fire different
"calibers" of foam and change the barrel accordingly. I will add that my longshot only shoots around 65 feet flat like this but it is probably just the darts (bit to loose) or the fact that the gun is like five years old. I don't see how doing this could hurt though.
"calibers" of foam and change the barrel accordingly. I will add that my longshot only shoots around 65 feet flat like this but it is probably just the darts (bit to loose) or the fact that the gun is like five years old. I don't see how doing this could hurt though.
#274448 Wax + Molten Bronze = Huge Fire
Posted by
on 10 May 2010 - 02:54 PM
in
Off Topic
That video is odd. Why would they waste the wax? It is used to make molds for casting the bronze and its not cheap. I do a bit of metal casting in my backyard frequently. Are there any other metal casters on this forum?
I have some pictures of what I do on my website
La tomatina mt laurel
Yes the site has a lot of randomness, just go to the casting section.
I have some pictures of what I do on my website
La tomatina mt laurel
Yes the site has a lot of randomness, just go to the casting section.
#271946 Rel Gun Look Alike?
Posted by
on 11 April 2010 - 06:52 PM
in
General Nerf
If your into milsim and want realistic play weaponry, then nerf is not for you. If nerf is not for then you probably shouldn't be on this forum. Therefore by the transitive property of geometry, you probably shouldn't be on this forum. How can someone even begin to compare a real rifle to a nerf gun that shoots 15 feet stock. Nerf needs to stop focusing on realistic looking guns and start making ones that function well again. But eh, nerf will sell whatever makes the most money.
#257734 Mav Help
Posted by
on 01 December 2009 - 07:33 PM
in
Modifications
You might want to work on the seal in the plunger. And I'm not sure if the gun will cock with 4 pennies. There might not be enough room for the spring to compress.
The seal IN the plunger? Not quite sure what you mean by that... Actually, the gun does cock just fine.
Where the outer plunger seals with the inner plunger.
#257716 Mav Help
Posted by
on 01 December 2009 - 05:30 PM
in
Modifications
You might want to work on the seal in the plunger. And I'm not sure if the gun will cock with 4 pennies. There might not be enough room for the spring to compress.
#257439 How To Make Hollow Stefans (tutorial)
Posted by
on 28 November 2009 - 09:19 AM
in
General Nerf
How do you know I'm not your dad? huh No I'm just kidding
#257435 How To Make Hollow Stefans (tutorial)
Posted by
on 28 November 2009 - 08:45 AM
in
General Nerf
Good idea. It would be cool if you could heat the nail electrically (don't zap yourself). I think the purpose of the hollow in the back of darts is to improve the seal between the barrel, not increase accuracy. When the blast of air hits the hollow in the the dart, the rear rim expands and forms a nice seal against the barrel. In theory this would allow you to use a barrel that would otherwise be just a bit to loose. But what do I know. I'll have to test it when I get more foam.
#256948 Official Steam/pc Gaming Thread
Posted by
on 21 November 2009 - 05:18 PM
in
Off Topic
Glad you fixed it. Is the game only for x-box ? I'd like to find out cause if it's better than the first.. Wow it must be good!
#256396 Semi-automatic Valve
Posted by
on 15 November 2009 - 09:14 PM
in
Modifications
I love how you did this. This has to be the simplest semi auto configuration I've seen that looks like it works. Great job.
#255897 Recon Cs-6 And Ertl Rapid Fire Shot Gun Mod
Posted by
on 10 November 2009 - 05:05 PM
in
Modifications
You sir are a magician! This calls for a song! Too bad I can't think of one.
#254100 Planning On N-force Swords Mods
Posted by
on 20 October 2009 - 05:43 PM
in
General Nerf
Wow. You really think that way? I bet people would pay to study you. Swords and blaster are two entirely different things with nothing alike except who makes them. Maybe if you read some good modifications on this site you understand that.
#253858 Questions About Making A Rscb Clip
Posted by
on 18 October 2009 - 05:56 PM
in
Modifications
If you are going to a store to buy the brass, or any barrel material, I always bring a few darts to test their fit. 9/16 or 17/32 should work. I personally made an angel breech with 9/16, but found a different supply of foam and put a piece of 17/32 down the org. barrel to get a tighter fit.
#253700 Raider Rapid Fire Cs-35
Posted by
on 16 October 2009 - 08:21 PM
in
Modifications
If you mean the raider then the the internals are basically the same as the recon's so just look that up.
#253639 Best Modification
Posted by
on 15 October 2009 - 07:48 PM
in
Modifications
To do a barrel replacement, you really need to remove the ar's anyway.
#252131 The New Pics Of The Thompson
Posted by
on 29 September 2009 - 07:41 PM
in
Homemades
Is that a dress or a bed sheet ? Nice hat though.
Real comments now.So how does it work again? The air bladder fires one shot every time you press the trigger button thing, but you have to load a dart for every shot. Ranges?
Edit: Just read the original post again on how it works. Good idea. What are the ranges!
Real comments now.
Edit: Just read the original post again on how it works. Good idea. What are the ranges!
#251966 Massive Nurf Warz (75+ People)
Posted by
on 28 September 2009 - 12:26 PM
in
Nerf Wars
I'm curious what "no metal part" mods means. No brass barrels? remove the screws? What do you mean?
#251703 Need Some Help With Nf Mod Troubleshooting
Posted by
on 26 September 2009 - 11:16 AM
in
Modifications
Two words DART FIT. Unless your darts are obscenely fat, 9/16 brass is only good for long barrels. Tape a piece of 17/32 in as a barrel insert and you should see an improvement.
#251615 Nf/mav Probs
Posted by
on 25 September 2009 - 04:38 PM
in
Modifications
Why not just make a nitemaverick? There are write ups and everything.
#250881 Wings Of Freedom Tour
Posted by
on 19 September 2009 - 05:30 PM
in
Off Topic
I would love to see the ball turrets fire nerf darts. Those pictues are so cool!
#250878 Extreme Wars
Posted by
on 19 September 2009 - 05:24 PM
in
Nerf Wars
I don't understand why powerful weaponry isn't allowed at nerfing events. It's just foam, not like paintballs(I know some of you play) that make you bleed. I mean, i'm finishing up a Breeched-BikePump-Titan-Longshot loser rifle with an unde barrel cluster titan missile mortar configuration, only to find out that it's not allowed? I also have plans for air burst rounds and nerf howitzers, and I can't even use them.
Well, seeing as you west coast nerfers only play with barely over-stock weapons, I'd like to know if there are enough nerfers in the Kingston, New York area to really kick it up a notch.
Also, a winter battle might be interesting.
So, state if you would be able to go to a higher level competion in the area, or is it a lost dream?
Hehe. Loser rifle. That's funny.
Nerf is about having fun and getting that rush of adrenaline when your dodging and shooting. You can't really have either of those when you are shooting from over 100 feet away. Also, you can't hit anyone at that range so you have to be closer. Getting closer with a high power gun means injuries.
#250624 Cpvc At3k
Posted by
on 16 September 2009 - 05:33 PM
in
Modifications
Actually, I cpvc'd mine and it shoots 40 plus feet with tight fitting taggers. My barrels are only three inches long too.
