It's not opinion. Battery ratings aren't user based. Google 'Trustfire explosion,' or similar.

It is a known fact that "fire" batteries can vary from 500mA up to 4A discharge current and most fall in the 2-3A range unless they are cheap low quality cells. The stock motors are made to do with 500mA at best with 4 AA batteries. By giving them a proper power source they can scream to their hearts content. IMR or LI-MN cells discharge 10A-35A burst and should be the only drop in choice anyone considers. Lipo packs like most suggest are expensive but they are far better than any others you can pickup ones that can do 50-100A burst discharge.

Also trust fire and ultra fire are very commonly counterfeited look up counterfeit ultrafire dissection. There are 3 ways they are faked the worst is when they put a 30 mAh foil pack inside an 18650 can and fill the rest with sand or flour or plaster dust so the weight is close enough. There are just cheap cells not made very well these are the fire balls waiting to happen. Then there are 900mA cells labeled 3800mAh.

I would pull cells from laptop batteries before i bought a fire brand. For 14500 cells aw or efest imr are better than any fire and they can do decent amps.

Lithium batteries from a laptop are not high discharge, though. Just FYI.

no they have a discharge of 3-5A but it is a cheaper reliable source of quality cells vs spinning the wheel on a *fire brand battery if you're after 18650 size. 14500 you need to spin the wheel and you should not run any cell other than imr or li-fe. Normal unprotected Li-ion are asking for bad things.

Whoa. I just watched a video of a trustfire explosion and it was insane! Apparently those things can explode even when not in use and are just being stored! I am never buying those things in my life. I am going to have to stick to lipo's forever.

Just be sure to not get the soft package ones and treat them with respect... Sure they are safer but if they get punctured or you exceed the current draw they can violently vent or puff... Nothing good ever spits out of a battery when they vent... I have also read about someone who charged their *fire battery properly they put it in a drawer for use later nothing shorting it or anything he came into his shop after hearing a pop and it was the battery having vented...

Most safe
LiFeLiFE
LiMnimr
NiMHNiMH
LiPolipo
Li-ion protected
Li-ion quality cellsLi-ion
Cheap Chinese Li-ion *FIRE brandsBoom and Fake
Less safe

In mods with STOCK wiring and motors a good set of IMR or LiMn batteries is fine the stock motors wont draw over 10A.
In mods with Alternate high voltage motors LiPo, LiFe or NiMH packs. You can use these with stock motors but thermal fuses must in most cases be removed.
In mods with alternate low voltage motors A 1s LiPo LiFe or NiMH or AA NiMH are the choice you need to keep in mind most of these motors are 3v they can be over volted a bit to 4.5 or maybe 6v at most...


also any battery that gets abused can explode including alkaline...

EBay trust fires... do we need to go over the biggest source for counterfeit cells again. They are not even cheaper than the red efest on amazon.

Buy the purple efest and mod for 18650 size or the 14500 red v2 they do about 10A the purple do 30A-60A though finding them in 14500 has been not fun. Also the eBay auction listed those at aaa size or 10440. Either the lister has a typo or he knows nothing about batteries.

we need better details than it didn't fire...

such as it would jam up frequently or it had poor distances

if it is jamming up it is likely the dart lock in which case open it pull out the orange spring loaded thing it serves only one purpose to keep the trigger from being pulled without a dart pushing it up.

if it is just getting poor distances that is somewhat normal do a power supply mod and perhaps rewire that will fix that.

if the motors are either not working going to need to figure out why and while your at it either swap them for ones that work or rewire it and fix the break and while your at it remove the locks...

Alright I just swapped the yellow wire over and double checked my motors, they are running super fast now. My original intention was to make the gun quieter, but seeing how powerful it is now... I kinda like the roar

another thing to do is to remove that white rubber flappy thing over the dart entrance i was getting jams with mine until i ripped that shit out.

and as for quiet the only quiet flywheel is a stopped flywheel look into motor breaking to make them stop faster then work on spin up time it should already be super short with what you have already done.

also since you got rm2 did you C-Mod them as in did you replace the stock low voltage brushes with the upgraded silver carbon brushes.

Alright, i'll try popping the resistors off, and see how that goes
(also judging by your past posts, I would consider you pretty dang wise elder like in the modding community )

those are inductors not resistors leave them be they help with the amperage drawn from the battery set look at bridging the diodes in the trigger area to remove the slow down while the pusher is not active instead.

another thing you can do is is rework the trigger area that is where the most restrictive part of the circuits are. The rapid strike has a pair of diodes that function as a limiter while the pusher is not active you can do the extra work and strip out most of this.

honestly http://www.blasterte...3_13607466.aspx
the falcon 130 motors look to be beastly...

I found this on another modding website "De-solder the left end of the yellow wire from where it is and solder it back on top of the red wire that comes in from the positive battery. This will disable the mechanism that causes the flywheels to be slow at first." -Rexar5 humanvszombies.org

is that basically a way of bypassing those diodes?

yes it just bypasses the circuit. That alone might fix the issue you are having. While in there i would also remove both thermal fuses as they bleed off some juice too. You also may want to switch to NiMH

i didnt do anything to the seal yet how do u think i should do it? Ya i removed that grate thingy and a dart fits in it but the dart is kinda too skinny so if u fire it with the dart inside, the air goes like around the dart so it doesnt even go all the way out. I then tried to make the dart fatter by wrapping it with duct tape so then it fit perfectly in the center tube but when i fired it, it went like 10' and the accuracy is like whale shit. the missiles are better and i dont recommend using the darts.

and tiff, i added u

On the one i saw he wrapped the plunger head in teflon tape 4 times and then put the o-ring on and greased it. For the missile barrel i would not alter the darts but instead glue a insert of nested brass or cpvc into the abs tube to make it fit the dart better as long as you don't increase the size outward the missile should fire still.

No I didn't make any cuts to the demolisher. I made a strayven b4 and the cuts r pretty similar. I was originally gunna make a rayven rapidstrike rough cut and jolt integration but none if the places I went to had rapidstrikes so we just got demolishers. My friend also made a centurion demolisher. PM me if u need any help I guess

Did you improve the seal on the demolisher missile plunger? Also i have been meaning to ask this of a demoilisher owner is the center tube of the missile if you cut off the grate on the front would a elite fit snug down that to the point you could use it as a single direct fire spot for if you did not have a missile to reload? IF yes have you done so and how well do they fire from it?

 

14500 IMR's cost as much as to more than a LiPO, but aren't rated to handle the current draw of even stock motors. Using them is risking venting or burnout in the blaster (!). The other sizes might be fine, but aren't drop-in solutions anymore. Also problematic is the fact that IMR's aren't in the upgrade chain toward LiPo/NiMH/packs - if you use them, you'll just need to throw them away if you want to use upgraded motors/wheels/cages because they cannot sustain power to those systems safely.

 

A rewire with a LiPo (or NiMH, for the safety concerned who don't care about their batteries fitting stock trays) is actually really inexpensive if you can borrow a soldiering rig (likely) and either use an inexpensive charger or go in on one with friends. My first rewire cost $15 for everything I needed to use the stock cage/motors/wheels properly and within safe current draw for the battery pack.

 

Didn't bring those up though because $15 is still more than a spring swap, and opening a blaster, removing all the parts, and soldiering them in a different order is more skill than opening a blaster and replacing some of the parts.

im a bit late on my reply but...

 

when I rewired to remove locks i had enough wire in the stock wiring to double up and omit the locks bigger NEW wire is better but worked in a pinch. As for how much power li-mn can provide... 6.5 A and 9.8amp in a burst vs the 3A burst the stock motors pull...you need 2 that is 14 dollars it used to be A LOT easier at the time of my post to buy these batteries. But still 26650 which fit in a rapidstrike tray with modification and a spacer will deliver 30A constant... Now as for the mod to use 26650 in a rapidstrike two balls of aluminum foil on the springs to space forward the 26650 and you are good. 7.4v is not enough of a over volt from the 6v it is stock that the gun is not very functional. From there you can get into more in depth mods but 10$ for a pair of IMR batteries and .20 cents of foil get you started.

A dremel to build a brass breech isnt exactly machining hardware.

Anyway, the cheapest possible mods are probably rebarrels for single-shot blasters and spring spacers. Buying replacement springs isnt too expensive, but is usually as much as/more than the material for a brass breech.

It seems to me that springer mods can be cheaper than flywheel mods, but that doing a full workover on a springer is usually going to cost more/take more time than a full workover on a flywheeler.

If youre starting from nothing and dont have the cash to build up a stash of mags, a magnum superdrum or Zuru turbo advance are probably good blasters to start back up with.

I disagree a stryfe or rapidstrike or other flywheel with 18650 or 26650 or 14500 are by far easier than doing any springer mods... and the rewards are instant... pop a pair of 26650 into a rapidstrike with a inch thick spacer or mod the tray and dump a 2s or 3s pack of choice in the rapidstrike night and day better... and from there you can jump to a rewire, motors, cages, flywheels, and li-po mods, motor controllers.

 

My first mod was to drop a pair of 14500 IMR into a stryfe with a dummy battery i made out of wood glue paper and a copper wire in fact i made 2 dummies one 2 batteries long one 1 battery long. My next step was a semi rewire where i removed the thermal fuse and all the extra safety switches. Sometime after that i added a voltage monitor and hooked it into the jam door switch. My next step is upgraded wiring and perhaps flywheel and cage swap there is an aluminum set i was eyeing.

Be careful about amazon batteries particularly ones with fire in the name a lot of fakes.

On the cheap end i would do a single imr 18650 or 14500 if you want to fit a pair of them in the original battery compartment with some rewiring to put them in parallel or a li-po pack for a rc rated at 4.2v. The imr is good for 25-35 amps depending on the brand i would recommend efest or aw.

I would also look at PWM regulation since the motors are only rated for 2.4v going too much higher than that will burn them quicker the circuit is relatively simple and can be made small enough to fit in the gun or even the battery compartment depending what battery and where you put it.

If you dont want to put that much work into figuring out the power situation. 4 eneloops in the stock bay would power the motors with a slight over-volt would not provide the amps for stall though.

The main thing I am curious about is that the black things connected to the motors are not resistors they are inductors designed to drop voltage and increase current I don't pretend to know everything but would not having them in place help with current draw as the AA it is meant to run on would not provide the current to drive the stock motors well enough on their own.

For Ni-MH energizer claims 4c eneloops say 1c duracell claims 2c.

I never go near any batteries with the word fire in the name. I ended up ordering this one. Since its only 3.7V I will try running the motors without limiting the voltage, if hear, smell, see anything wrong then I'll install something to limit it down to a lower point.

I used a pair of laptop batteries in mine I had already reclaimed the 6 18650 they held a charge at 4.1v for 3 months before I did anything with them I put them in a pair of protected battery holders

Why would you put a 3.7V battery in a gun designed for 6V? I don't think that motor will work. Does this gun need a double shaft like that? I am putting a 7.4V Lipo in mine today. We will see if I fry anything.

The stock motors are rated to 6v and do fine on 7.4v-8.4v i have a pair of IMR running mine the IMR say they can do 20A continuous the stock motors should not have anywhere near that stall current.

If you do like the op is doing with his he is putting a pair of 130 size race motors in his that are rated to 3v so 3.7v battery pack or even a pair of IMR in parallel would do. Putting double the voltage on those race motors would likely burn them out very quickly.

I want to do a brushless motor mod and i have an idea for cheap durable brushless motors. Computer fans they are 7-12v brushless ball bearing sleeve and several others are available and spin 600-4800 rpm all i would need to do is free them from the frame and cut off the fins and smooth out the hub would take 20 min with a belt sander or dremel. If i end up doing it ill post a write up on it my main concern is there is not an easy way of reversing the rotation on pc fans so i would have to mount them with one flipped over.

do those brushless fan motors have 2-wires or 3-wires, if they have three then there true brushless motors and requires a brushless specific speed controller

Pc fans are true brushless but they dont have to have 3 wires. They use hall effect sensors to determine direction rather than comutators. Generally it is positive (red) ground (black) and rpm sensing (yellow) Now 4 wire pwm setups are getting more common the 3 wires remain the same. Though red 12v input black ground and yellow blue or green rpm sensing the 4th is used to adjust speed. Previous to this they were slowed by a pot dropping the voltage to the stall level around 5v-7v. An 80mm or 92mm or 120mm fan would have a similar sized hub to a flywheel dropping the other wires and keeping the red and black tossing them into a blaster would require modification of the flywheel cage cutting out the 130 size sleeve since without modding the speed controller you cant reverse the direction and to get access to the controller you must remove the hub.

I have been thinking about how to do it and i am almost positive ill be making my own nerf gun when i get around to making the one based off pc fans i will need to see how slow they speed up and how the motor behaves without the fins on it though. It has been brought up to me that the torque and spin up time might not be good.

If I were you, I would boost the number of AA's to 8. This will lead to 12 volts, and a fair amount of current. From my experience, stryfe motors can handle a pretty decent amount of current, but totally fry if you get higher than 16 volts running through them.

Also, I would coat the flywheels in something. What I do is wrap them tightly in electrical tape in direction that the flywheels spin. After the wrap, I use a hair dryer on the highest setting to warm up the electrical tape. It is crucial that the tape is wrapped in a way that when the flywheels spin, the seam that the tape makes is not able to be peeled back.

My stryfe shoots 50-70ft flat with 2 imr and full rewire. With that many AA you might as well jump to imr you will go through that many AA while playing.

Thanks for your very detailed feedback. Luckily I had a soldering iron and already took out all the junk from the inside of the blaster. Unfortunately your ebay seller doesn't ship to Germany I,ll try to solder the battery holder in place and feed the wires through the back of the stock mount, so that I'm able to close the original battery holder again. I will also mount the new battery holder with something more durable. I don't play that often (2-4 hours a week) so the alkalines should last relatively long. In fact 4 of the 6 batteries that I'm currently using are still the ones that I put in when I bought the blaster about 4 months ago, so they should still be cheaper and if I really need to I can still swap them for IMRs.

Have a good day!

the links i gave were for amazon in germany... 9.90 euro for a pair of imr you only really need 2 and a bypass for the other 2 cells you can run 3 safely 4 will burn out the motors.

and the same charger for li-ions works with imr.

Did you even see what he said? Imr's cost 14 euro's where he lives for just a pack of 2. Then you also have to add a special charger to that.

I recommended 8 AA's because they are cheap and accessible. In Addition, the current from 8 AA"s is greater than 2 Imr's, which will lead to greater performance and less damage to the motors.

Umm no alkaline can not provide more current than imr.

Alkaline can at most do 3 amps but most can only do 2.5A and they last 40 minutes tops so piss through those batteries like water and how long does it take to burn 14 euro in alkaline.

NiMh can do 5 amp discharges and last for 2.1 Ah so at 2 amp discharge you get maybe an hour.

IMR 10-60A depends on grade and size of cell most 14500 do 10A.

Now 8 AA in series is 12v the stock motors were rated for 6v we over volt them at a cost to life at a given voltage the stall current increases. It does not matter if it is an imr or if it is alkaline 12v will kill those motors just as well from either source.

http://www.amazon.de...rds=efest 14500
9.90 eur

http://www.amazon.de...rds=nitecore d4
charger does li-mn, NiMh, LiFE, li-ion, NiCD

or
http://www.amazon.de...rds=nitecore i2

i donno i get pushing the envelope but there is a correlation to how inaccurate a shot it is vs how hard it is flung out you hit this plateau very easy. How many full customs accurately shoot foam over 200 FPS and to how far is that accurate? And i can tell you this 100 fps hits hard enough. Anything higher you might as well just go paintball.

Do you think if the flywheel had an indentation for the innertube section to sit inside it, that it would stay in place? I can get something like this made and test it relatively easily/cheaply.

the centrifugal force is spinning the tube off the wheels only better glue or thermal bonding would help.

I just want to know. Torque is for the efficiency. That doesn't mean I don't want rpm.

EDIT: The flywheels I'll use will make slippage more minor of a problem.

there is only so much you can do vs slippage i suppose the torque would help with heavier wheels too...

Wait a second... this gives me an idea! If the Zeus has 380 motors, and Xtreme Productions (home of the xtreme pro 180) makes 380 motors... You see where I'm going.

different ammo as far as i know few mods there was one that was full auto at 11v looked beastly

was saying that for the purposes of you likely have hundreds of darts where as just getting into the zeus you would only have the ammo it came with if you were to pick this up for modding a fundamental expense rises across the board new ammo stock pile new mag stock pile if your purposes are for a nerf war with shock and awe factor i dont see it being all that useful that said i can see nerf phasing out darts for this. engineering can only take the darts so far.

Exotics are just fine. I just want to know are there any better ones.


Torque is the focus, not rpm!

Why do you need super high torque... The fps comes from rpm the load of the darts comes from torque. So heavier darts would be the only benefit and it might hit harder but it would not go as far and would have greater slippage on the darts.

might be easier with a rapid strike

my friend got one of the storm trooper ones for 31 dollars at our local walmart...

I use a pair of 18650 IMR in my rapidstrike a pair of 26650 would fit too and not need a tray of their own. and you can get 26650 that can do up to 30-60A with a rather high capacity.

alternately the lipo pack would also fit all you do is remove 2 screws from the stock tray the front plate comes off and you then shove the lipo in the stock area and put the plate back...

Hello Nerf Haven,
I have done all the basic mods to my strife (taken out electronic/mechanical locks and rewired) as well as replaced the stock motors with the Solarbotic's RM2s (This was a while ago, I realize now that it was a possible waste of money.)
I am now looking to buy the standard ultrafires/trustfires to up the voltage. I'm in Canada, so because of weird rules/lack of website support/Canadian import taxes that I'm definitely not an expert on, I (think) I need to order them from ebay.ca or amazon.ca. I have tried ordering a couple before but long story short I didn't receive them. There is also a lot of fake ultrafires that are being sold.

I came to ask my fellow Canadian's if they could give me a link(s) in order to buy 6 ultrafires/trustfires with a charger, and a dummy battery.

I would prefer for these to be tested sellers so I don't get scammed again. The number of batteries the charger supports doesn't concern me, I just need the correct batteries (size/voltage/capacity) in order to run in my stock AA battery tray.
Your help is very much appreciated.
Thanks, eh?

i would not go for anyfire...

amazon ships to canada
this site apparently stocks the but is oos right now http://www.canadaeju...ttery- Flat top

Can the Catch move freely? Also, Is the prime-length correct and and is is pushing the plunger all the way back to meet the catch?

I have the #1 and #2 kit on my retaliator did you use the supplied spring for the catch or the old spring. The supplied spring is of a higher strength than the old spring. I also suggest going with the 5kg spring vs the 7kg spring that comes with the 3rd stage kit. The 7kg does not improve it that much over the 5kg just makes it much much harder to prime.

IIRC from a Drac video, the 7kg spring is required to drive the stage 3 extended barrel (it induces too much barrel drag otherwise).

yes but it also makes the blaster alot harder to prime.

Also about that extended barrel it sucks the attachment point it has is a slight upgrade but the barrel itself sucks if memory serves omw went back and tweaked it to be bigger around so it caused less drag... I felt this was a shame as i liked the look of the stage 3 kit but when i found out the drawbacks and that the 7kg spring + the barrel ended up with worse ranges and speeds than stage 1 and 2 i decided not to bother with stage 3... And guess what i don't have any issues with my retaliator lockup all locks removed and it works perfectly it is gathering dust as i have moved onto a stryfe and rapid strike but my advise to solve the lock up issues is unscrew the barrel and use the 5kg spring after making sure the trigger and catch springs are the upgraded ones and did not slip out of place...

If you absolutely need to use the extended barrel i suggest brassing it make sure you get big enough brass. To widen the barrel a dowel with a piece of sand paper wrapped around it then chucked in a drill will make short work of opening it up then push a brass 7/16 size tube down it if it ends up too loose you can glue it but it should fit so snugly it wont need anything. It will be wider and it should solve the issue with the barrel reducing the distance and speed.

Why would you buy cells when you can rescue them from laptop batteries? I have easily 60 18650 cells for very little investment.

but those cells are only able to provide about 3 amps... no better than a trust fire. you would need to make a pack out of them for anything beyond flashlights or stock+ blasters.


IMR not typically used in laptop batteries is much better than any li-ion.

There isn't. People just don't want to buy the LiPo pack and the appropriate charger since it ends up being a bit more expensive. It's probably for the best since LiPo's are actually kind of unsafe for the average user who isn't taking care when using them. Individual cells have their place for that reason.

I cant be the only one that has devices that use the numbered cells. I have 2 flashlights that run on the 18650 3 that run on 14500 and a cell phone charger that takes 18650s

now i have a stryfe and a rapid strike that uses them...

i have 0 drones 0 remote control vehicles that use the li-po why should i invest in li-po when i already had the cells...

people do 14500 in stryfe due to the clean look and in the case of rapid strikes they stick them in AA to C adapters and get drop in upgradability you are into heavy mod territory you might as well go full bore.

the rapid strike has alot more options especially if you don't shorten it.

The only mod i have done to my rapid strike is in the battery tray i put a 18650 2p1s battery tray in and soldered it to the contacts.


you could potentially go up to 26650 IMR in the stock tray and as long as you dont run more than 2 the stock pusher will only go slightly faster than 4 c cells.


*fire anything sucks and is likely a clone. i like my efest "IMR" 18650. there are 3 types of 18650 out there lifepo4 3.2 volt these are rare and expensive but take abuse readily and keep going. the normal trustfire li-ion cells these are not what your looking for same thing in laptop packs but the laptop packs might be better quality slight fire hazard... then what you want IMR Li-MN these are high discharge slightly less capacity than the li-ion might melt the gun a bit when they fail but not fire.


18650 would have about 2400mAh of capacity 14500 have 700mAh this means longer run time a 26650 would have about 3800mAh for double the run time of a pair of 18650.

The main question is, are 2 14500 efests enough?

the 14500 are only available in 700mAh and only about 9.85A max draw per cell fine for stock not 180s

by jumping up to 18650 you can get 2400mAh @ 30A per cell 180s can do fine a 2s li-po is cheaper sort

jump up to 26650 you can get 3500mAh @ 64A purple efest per cell or 4200mAh @ 50A green efest


mAh = run time

figure adverage of 5 amps while spinning then 10-20A on start up for a split second

To me it sounds like your plunger needs to be replaced the front edge came off and that is what kept that plunger from getting up over the ridge stop in the piston chamber.

What i would do is grease it up to see if it helps if it solves the issue great if not i would say that you removed too much dead space you could trim down the hot glue slowly until the issue gets fixed.

Just remember that without the AR dry fires are not recommended they will break parts.

That's what I thought too. It seemed to have worked better stock. I'm going to get some better batteries for it and see if that helps at all, if not maybe a new set of motors... Kinda disappointed with the performance of it. I've done other battery upgrades and restrictor removals before and always the blasters have worked out much better in the past. Don't really know what the deal is with this one...

My guess is that the flywheels are spinning up at a much different RPM and tossing the dart either up or down into the barrel and giving it the wonky performance.

Humm you had to rebuild the end bell of one motor i wonder if that has anything to do with it try moving that one to the pusher?

Or replace both flywheel motors.

To me it seems like they are not going far enough over all like mine blasts a spray of foam out much further than yours did it seemed some went sideways in the barrel and lost energy really quick.

This motor:
http://www.tamiyausa...h-3-motor-15477

3-4 ultrafires is too much voltage and not enough current and will shorten the life of the motor. Run it on 1s IMR / Lipo, or a 3 or 4s NMH pack.

Also, unless someone posts chronograph numbers after coating the flywheels, I wouldn't mess with it at all. Anything you put on them will increase their weight which will increase the time it takes to spin up the motors. It will also decrease battery life from the increased load and will increase the amount of heat being generated in the motor which will shorten the life of the motor.

the op could run 3 in parallel to increase the amperage and capacity that could be pulled from the cells.

I used my calipers a while back to measure mine it is about 28mm deep 117mm long and 54mm wide you should be able to fit 2 26650 batteries side by side if you cut out the center support and the 2 end supports you will have about 1cm at each end of the battery you would need to adjust for...

Ill redo my measurements later tonight and repost but those are the numbers i remember from when i measured mine. you do get a bit more room by dropping the tray and just using the front. But I like to keep my nerf guns semi stock and would like to if i have to drop back to stock.