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Epoxy Question


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#1 CS- Tiff

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 02:45 PM

I am attemtping to make a demolisher with a rayven stock. What should I use for the bond? I currently have liquid epoxy and hot glue.
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#2 Duke Wintermaul

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 02:52 PM

ABS to ABS bonds are best made with Methacrylate adhesives.

You can pick some up from Wal-Mart for less than $5

http://www.walmart.c...Bonder/20470696
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#3 CS- Tiff

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 03:39 PM

Um... I don't think that is available in canada.
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#4 Duke Wintermaul

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 03:41 PM

I'm sure you can order some.

Regardless, you asked what to use for the bond and the answer remains Methacrylate.

Edited by Duke Wintermaul, 22 October 2014 - 03:44 PM.

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#5 CS- Tiff

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 03:57 PM

Thanks. Will this work? http://www.walmart.c...y/6000016953894
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#6 Duke Wintermaul

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 04:28 PM

I doubt that is Methacrylate.

You want to look for anything that says 'Plastic Bonder' or 'Bonder' on the package. A well known brand of Methacrylate is Devcon.

Methacrylates are distinct from epoxies is a few ways. One, they will 'melt' or 'fuse' to most plastics on a 'molecular' level; this is the aspect that gives these adhesives a distinct advance over normal epoxies. Two, you can get high as balls off the toxic fumes; not that I recommend this action. They will have a distinct smell, and visually they are often opaque.

Hope this helps.

Edited by Duke Wintermaul, 22 October 2014 - 09:52 PM.

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#7 Mully

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 11:00 PM

A combination of hot glue+epoxy putty, with a dash of super glue, Jb weld, and maybe Bondo if you wanna go crazy with it.
Epoxy putty should be sold in the plumbing department of your local hardware store.
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S.C.U.N.

#8 arekin

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 06:45 AM

I'm gonna say the one right next to it on your Walmart website that says "Plastic Weld" would have been the correct choice.

http://www.walmart.c...d/6000016947679

EDIT: MSDS confirms it contains Methacrylate. http://www.permatex....glish/84135.pdf

Edited by arekin, 23 October 2014 - 06:49 AM.

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#9 CS- Tiff

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 04:58 PM

A combination of hot glue+epoxy putty, with a dash of super glue, Jb weld, and maybe Bondo if you wanna go crazy with it.
Epoxy putty should be sold in the plumbing department of your local hardware store.


Will hot glue and the Methacrylate be enough?
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#10 Duke Wintermaul

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 05:49 PM

My process for shell integration is as follows...

Apply Hotglue to the exterior of the integration to ensure the two halves are seated properly and line up.

Once dry, apply your methacrylate to the interior of the integration. This is where the bond gets all it's strength.

Once dry, remove the hotglue from the exterior. I then apply healthy amounts of Epoxy Putty to the external integration.

Once dry, you can sand and carve the epoxy putty to create a smooth transition from one shell to the other. The methacrylate inside is the bond for strength, the Epoxy putty on the outside is the workable bond for aesthetics.
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#11 darthskids

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 12:33 AM

Just FYI, that loctite "plastic" epoxy isn't methacrylate based and isn't what you want. It's advertised like it is, but it's just plain epoxy resin. You'll know you have the right stuff by the terrible smell.
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#12 PhukYu

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 07:11 PM

haha beat u to it

Posted Image

I used hot glue to keep it together while i applied the putty. I used the JB weld plastic stick epoxy thingy (comes in a yellow tube thingy) and gorilla glue. The bond is really strong and i think u should use it.

My gun isnt finished yet i still gotta sand down the epoxy and paint it but thats kinda what it will look like.
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#13 CS- Tiff

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 08:07 AM

Wow that looks just about what mine will look like. Thanks for the preview but mine is going to be full auto. By the way, did you have to make any cuts to the demolisher? And did you get the idea just from me? If so, please credit me for my idea.

Edited by CS- Tiff, 25 October 2014 - 08:11 AM.

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#14 PhukYu

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 01:57 PM

No I didn't make any cuts to the demolisher. I made a strayven b4 and the cuts r pretty similar. I was originally gunna make a rayven rapidstrike rough cut and jolt integration but none if the places I went to had rapidstrikes so we just got demolishers. My friend also made a centurion demolisher. PM me if u need any help I guess
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#15 CS- Tiff

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 03:51 PM

Removed

Edited by CS- Tiff, 27 October 2014 - 04:01 PM.

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#16 Lunas

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 06:13 PM

No I didn't make any cuts to the demolisher. I made a strayven b4 and the cuts r pretty similar. I was originally gunna make a rayven rapidstrike rough cut and jolt integration but none if the places I went to had rapidstrikes so we just got demolishers. My friend also made a centurion demolisher. PM me if u need any help I guess

Did you improve the seal on the demolisher missile plunger? Also i have been meaning to ask this of a demoilisher owner is the center tube of the missile if you cut off the grate on the front would a elite fit snug down that to the point you could use it as a single direct fire spot for if you did not have a missile to reload? IF yes have you done so and how well do they fire from it?
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#17 PhukYu

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Posted 26 October 2014 - 04:06 PM

Did you improve the seal on the demolisher missile plunger? Also i have been meaning to ask this of a demoilisher owner is the center tube of the missile if you cut off the grate on the front would a elite fit snug down that to the point you could use it as a single direct fire spot for if you did not have a missile to reload? IF yes have you done so and how well do they fire from it?


i didnt do anything to the seal yet how do u think i should do it? Ya i removed that grate thingy and a dart fits in it but the dart is kinda too skinny so if u fire it with the dart inside, the air goes like around the dart so it doesnt even go all the way out. I then tried to make the dart fatter by wrapping it with duct tape so then it fit perfectly in the center tube but when i fired it, it went like 10' and the accuracy is like whale shit. the missiles are better and i dont recommend using the darts.

and tiff, i added u
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Edited by Zorns Lemma, 09 November 2014 - 07:37 PM.

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#18 Lunas

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Posted 26 October 2014 - 04:53 PM

i didnt do anything to the seal yet how do u think i should do it? Ya i removed that grate thingy and a dart fits in it but the dart is kinda too skinny so if u fire it with the dart inside, the air goes like around the dart so it doesnt even go all the way out. I then tried to make the dart fatter by wrapping it with duct tape so then it fit perfectly in the center tube but when i fired it, it went like 10' and the accuracy is like whale shit. the missiles are better and i dont recommend using the darts.

and tiff, i added u

On the one i saw he wrapped the plunger head in teflon tape 4 times and then put the o-ring on and greased it. For the missile barrel i would not alter the darts but instead glue a insert of nested brass or cpvc into the abs tube to make it fit the dart better as long as you don't increase the size outward the missile should fire still.
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