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180 Setup Question


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#1 CS- Tiff

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 06:01 PM

I am preparing to do a 180'd rapidstrike with the circuits separated. I was initially planning on running it on 4 trustfires for the flywheels and a 9v for the pusher but then I found out that trustfires are just plain stupid. Now I am thinking of 2 efest 14500 cells in series for the flywheels and 2 trustfires for the pusher (I don't think the pusher battery has to be as good). Will this setup be better that the initial setup that I was going to use? The pusher motor is still stock.
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#2 azrael

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 06:53 PM

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Don't run 180s on 14500 cells. Go 18650 lithium or with a LiPo.
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#3 CS- Tiff

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 07:03 PM

Thank you. I kinda thought that efest imr 14500's would be good because most people do that but it seems that you they're not.
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#4 CS- Tiff

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 08:09 PM

I have an excuse for reposting, I'm on the apple version so I can't edit. Are trustfire 18650's good or do they still have to be eefest?
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#5 Lunas

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 08:32 PM

people do 14500 in stryfe due to the clean look and in the case of rapid strikes they stick them in AA to C adapters and get drop in upgradability you are into heavy mod territory you might as well go full bore.

the rapid strike has alot more options especially if you don't shorten it.

The only mod i have done to my rapid strike is in the battery tray i put a 18650 2p1s battery tray in and soldered it to the contacts.


you could potentially go up to 26650 IMR in the stock tray and as long as you dont run more than 2 the stock pusher will only go slightly faster than 4 c cells.


*fire anything sucks and is likely a clone. i like my efest "IMR" 18650. there are 3 types of 18650 out there lifepo4 3.2 volt these are rare and expensive but take abuse readily and keep going. the normal trustfire li-ion cells these are not what your looking for same thing in laptop packs but the laptop packs might be better quality slight fire hazard... then what you want IMR Li-MN these are high discharge slightly less capacity than the li-ion might melt the gun a bit when they fail but not fire.


18650 would have about 2400mAh of capacity 14500 have 700mAh this means longer run time a 26650 would have about 3800mAh for double the run time of a pair of 18650.

Edited by Lunas, 08 January 2015 - 08:48 PM.

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#6 CS- Tiff

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 08:37 PM

The main question is, are 2 14500 efests enough?
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#7 MAV13

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 08:54 PM

No, they cannot discharge enough current. And if you're running both the pusher and flywheels on the same voltage there's no point in having two separate circuits. The stock pusher motor will run pretty reliably on 2s, which is incidentally also ideal for 180s. Just get better batteries.

Edited by MAV13, 08 January 2015 - 08:58 PM.

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#8 Lunas

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 11:07 AM

The main question is, are 2 14500 efests enough?

the 14500 are only available in 700mAh and only about 9.85A max draw per cell fine for stock not 180s

by jumping up to 18650 you can get 2400mAh @ 30A per cell 180s can do fine a 2s li-po is cheaper sort

jump up to 26650 you can get 3500mAh @ 64A purple efest per cell or 4200mAh @ 50A green efest


mAh = run time

figure adverage of 5 amps while spinning then 10-20A on start up for a split second

Edited by Lunas, 09 January 2015 - 11:20 AM.

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#9 uranium

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 12:28 PM

Out of general curiosity, is there any reason you wouldn't want to just run a LiPo battery pack that fits in the battery holder area of the Rapidstrike? The use of a LiPo battery pack is the only way that I have gone with modding my electric blasters and thought that it was a superior method to the individual Li-ion cells since LiPo has a better discharge rate. Also, using just one battery pack means that there is only one battery to charge. Again, not trying to throw stones, just wondering why the individual cells would be preferential to an all in one LiPo pack, especially when one is already going to be rewiring the blaster for 180 size motors.
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#10 MAV13

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 02:42 PM

Out of general curiosity, is there any reason you wouldn't want to just run a LiPo battery pack that fits in the battery holder area of the Rapidstrike? The use of a LiPo battery pack is the only way that I have gone with modding my electric blasters and thought that it was a superior method to the individual Li-ion cells since LiPo has a better discharge rate. Also, using just one battery pack means that there is only one battery to charge. Again, not trying to throw stones, just wondering why the individual cells would be preferential to an all in one LiPo pack, especially when one is already going to be rewiring the blaster for 180 size motors.


There isn't. People just don't want to buy the LiPo pack and the appropriate charger since it ends up being a bit more expensive. It's probably for the best since LiPo's are actually kind of unsafe for the average user who isn't taking care when using them. Individual cells have their place for that reason.

Edited by MAV13, 09 January 2015 - 02:42 PM.

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#11 CS- Tiff

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 03:52 PM

Out of general curiosity, is there any reason you wouldn't want to just run a LiPo battery pack that fits in the battery holder area of the Rapidstrike? The use of a LiPo battery pack is the only way that I have gone with modding my electric blasters and thought that it was a superior method to the individual Li-ion cells since LiPo has a better discharge rate. Also, using just one battery pack means that there is only one battery to charge. Again, not trying to throw stones, just wondering why the individual cells would be preferential to an all in one LiPo pack, especially when one is already going to be rewiring the blaster for 180 size motors.


The shipping from hobbyking to canada is like what, $30? It's way to much.
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#12 Lunas

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 04:03 PM

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There isn't. People just don't want to buy the LiPo pack and the appropriate charger since it ends up being a bit more expensive. It's probably for the best since LiPo's are actually kind of unsafe for the average user who isn't taking care when using them. Individual cells have their place for that reason.

I cant be the only one that has devices that use the numbered cells. I have 2 flashlights that run on the 18650 3 that run on 14500 and a cell phone charger that takes 18650s

now i have a stryfe and a rapid strike that uses them...

i have 0 drones 0 remote control vehicles that use the li-po why should i invest in li-po when i already had the cells...
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#13 MAV13

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 05:47 PM

I cant be the only one that has devices that use the numbered cells. I have 2 flashlights that run on the 18650 3 that run on 14500 and a cell phone charger that takes 18650s

now i have a stryfe and a rapid strike that uses them...

i have 0 drones 0 remote control vehicles that use the li-po why should i invest in li-po when i already had the cells...


Of course flashlights run on the cells, it makes sense that you have them already for that reason. What he was asking is why would someone buy one over the other specifically for Nerfing purposes and the reason is definitely cost, even in cases where its only a few dollars more for a LiPo, and the fact that using 14500 cells doesn't always necessitate a rewire.

Edited by MAV13, 09 January 2015 - 06:40 PM.

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#14 Draconis

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 07:06 PM

Of course flashlights run on the cells, it makes sense that you have them already for that reason. What he was asking is why would someone buy one over the other specifically for Nerfing purposes and the reason is definitely cost, even in cases where its only a few dollars more for a LiPo.



Why would you buy cells when you can rescue them from laptop batteries? I have easily 60 18650 cells for very little investment.
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#15 Lunas

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 10:48 PM

Why would you buy cells when you can rescue them from laptop batteries? I have easily 60 18650 cells for very little investment.

but those cells are only able to provide about 3 amps... no better than a trust fire. you would need to make a pack out of them for anything beyond flashlights or stock+ blasters.


IMR not typically used in laptop batteries is much better than any li-ion.
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#16 Draconis

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 09:55 PM

but those cells are only able to provide about 3 amps... no better than a trust fire. you would need to make a pack out of them for anything beyond flashlights or stock+ blasters.


IMR not typically used in laptop batteries is much better than any li-ion.


Oh please. More hat speaking. Just the random ones I grabbed happen to be some of the lower-end versions I have, and are still 10 Amps. http://e-young.en.al...on_battery.html And seriously, more than ten? At that point, just give it up and build a springer.
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#17 CS- Tiff

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 04:55 PM

Oh please. More hat speaking. Just the random ones I grabbed happen to be some of the lower-end versions I have, and are still 10 Amps. http://e-young.en.al...on_battery.html And seriously, more than ten? At that point, just give it up and build a springer.


Does that mean that I can just take my old laptop battery from 2010 and find some cells? Does that mean that these will work? https://m.dx.com/p/u...ry-green-360333
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#18 azrael

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 06:24 PM

You could, but they wouldn't work well. 180s require a lot of current. If you use old laptop cells, you'll be choked the current and stressing the batteries, since you'd be asking for more current than they can provide. You would probably see a lot of voltage sag (lower supply voltage - so motors would not be overvolted as much as you'd think), too, so the motors would not be working optimally.

I'm sure it's fine with stock motors, but I don't recommend them for 180s.
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#19 CS- Tiff

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 07:21 PM

So I'm guessing these would be better? http://www.ebay.ca/i...=item4ae24c6354
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#20 J-Andy

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 07:37 PM

You want this

Fits right in battery tray.
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#21 CS- Tiff

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 07:40 PM

You want this

Fits right in battery tray.


How about this? http://www.hobbyking...Turnigy 2200mah
Will the 20c one work too?

Edited by CS- Tiff, 12 January 2015 - 07:41 PM.

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#22 J-Andy

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 07:49 PM

How about this? http://www.hobbyking...Turnigy 2200mah
Will the 20c one work too?



This is what I purchased to use in my RS Xtreme Pro 180 setup

I also want to correct myself. The lipos I linked will fit in the battery "compartment". I am not sure if they will fit with the actual battery "tray" still installed.

Edited by J-Andy, 12 January 2015 - 07:55 PM.

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#23 CS- Tiff

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 08:00 PM

This is what I purchased to use in my RS Xtreme Pro 180 setup

I also want to correct myself. The lipos I linked will fit in the battery "compartment". I am not sure if they will fit with the actual battery "tray" still installed.


Well i can always cut of the back and leave the end cap.
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#24 Draconis

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 08:10 PM

Does that mean that I can just take my old laptop battery from 2010 and find some cells? Does that mean that these will work? https://m.dx.com/p/u...ry-green-360333


While there isn't any real labels on those green batteries, the specifications given are excellent.

You could, but they wouldn't work well. 180s require a lot of current. If you use old laptop cells, you'll be choked the current and stressing the batteries, since you'd be asking for more current than they can provide. You would probably see a lot of voltage sag (lower supply voltage - so motors would not be overvolted as much as you'd think), too, so the motors would not be working optimally.

I'm sure it's fine with stock motors, but I don't recommend them for 180s.


I'm thinking that we really should have more information about motors, given that there are dozens of different 180-series motors. Even the hobby sites I find online are pretty terrible about showing the specifications of the motors. Just generically calling them "180s" seems like we are asking for confusion. I'd really like to see anyone talking about replacement motors actually provide a link to the online listing where they were purchased, or perhaps the manufacturers information page listing all of the specifications. But that's just me.
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#25 jwasko

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 12:40 AM

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While there isn't any real labels on those green batteries, the specifications given are excellent.



I'm thinking that we really should have more information about motors, given that there are dozens of different 180-series motors. Even the hobby sites I find online are pretty terrible about showing the specifications of the motors. Just generically calling them "180s" seems like we are asking for confusion. I'd really like to see anyone talking about replacement motors actually provide a link to the online listing where they were purchased, or perhaps the manufacturers information page listing all of the specifications. But that's just me.

For reference, this is the datasheet for the generic form of the "Blade 180" motor (you're to look at the FK180SH-3240 line). It's what seems to be recommended by most of the influential members of the expanded (non-NH) NIC. Works well with high-discharge 7-ish volt R/C packs (lipo or otherwise). The Xtreme Pros are a step up I believe but I've never seen a datasheet.

Yes, a motor directory and some detailed mod guides for flywheel blasters are needed. They are out there on the interwebs, yes, but there's also a lot of conflicting information right beside them.
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