After I modded my ERTL pump action shotgun, I stuck the stock barrel (which, mind you was an in-line clip/ball barrel) on my titan.
Unfortunately, I had already ripped out the spring and follower that helped seal the balls against the ring at the muzzle.
I didn't measure the range, but it wasn't very good. On the other hand, upon closer examination this past weekend, the barrel/clip wasn't air tight...maybe that had something to do with the horrible ranges.
I'm not sure how much this contributed to the discussion...Just some information for you all to think about, I suppose. Good fortune in your experiments, Carbon.
jwasko's Content
There have been 896 items by jwasko (Search limited from 17-January 97)
#127094 Big Snap Has Balls!
Posted by
on 23 October 2007 - 09:40 PM
in
Homemades
#127224 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 24 October 2007 - 08:51 PM
in
News
First, a question to clarify: OMC, am I correct that the "disassembled" picture is just the "assembled" picture, but modified?
If so, are you sure that the primary portion of the blaster does not have a barrel sticking out of it? The detachable barrel could be a sleeve with a few inches of barrel extension, rather than just being a barrel extension.
And for that matter, are we sure that there is a barrel besides the detachable one?
If so, are you sure that the primary portion of the blaster does not have a barrel sticking out of it? The detachable barrel could be a sleeve with a few inches of barrel extension, rather than just being a barrel extension.
And for that matter, are we sure that there is a barrel besides the detachable one?
#127227 Happy Birthday Groove
Posted by
on 24 October 2007 - 08:58 PM
in
Off Topic
Happy Birthday, and thanks for helping to make such a great place.
#127271 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 24 October 2007 - 11:05 PM
in
News
My Reasons to Buy:
-Figure out how it works.
-Try to integrate a Big Blast (best idea ever, Dark Shrimp!).
-Make a system to attach random crap instead of the wannabe-laser (first up: SMDTG).
-It's a ready-made pistol-with-a-box-magazine.
My Reasons Not to Buy:
-Um...I could spend the money on something else? I don't know, since when does the suckiness of a blaster stop us from making it into something cool? Maybe not practical/efficient, and completely devoid from the original features/gimmicks, but cool nonetheless...
Here's another question: What's that orange thing at the bottom of the front of the pistol? It's inline with the wannabe-laser, but it looks like orange stock-barrel-material plastic. Plus, it looks rounded. It could be a dart holder, but what's the point in that, what with it having a magazine?
-Figure out how it works.
-Try to integrate a Big Blast (best idea ever, Dark Shrimp!).
-Make a system to attach random crap instead of the wannabe-laser (first up: SMDTG).
-It's a ready-made pistol-with-a-box-magazine.
My Reasons Not to Buy:
-Um...I could spend the money on something else? I don't know, since when does the suckiness of a blaster stop us from making it into something cool? Maybe not practical/efficient, and completely devoid from the original features/gimmicks, but cool nonetheless...
Here's another question: What's that orange thing at the bottom of the front of the pistol? It's inline with the wannabe-laser, but it looks like orange stock-barrel-material plastic. Plus, it looks rounded. It could be a dart holder, but what's the point in that, what with it having a magazine?
#127306 The Spidey Dart Tag Guns Thread (warning Big Pics)
Posted by
on 25 October 2007 - 12:11 PM
in
Modifications
I've noticed that, if I only fire one shot, I can refill that tank without having to fire the other two shots. Note that this is with the overpressure release valve not plugged.
Now, my question is: Can this still be done if the overpressure (OP) release valve is plugged?
A follow-up question, if plugging the OP release valve does take away that feature, is: How much of a range increase did you get by plugging the OP release valve?
Finally, anyone know what the screw right next to the OP release valve is for?
Thanks in advance for any answers. It's just that I'm not sure whether I want to be able to refill a single air tank, or if I want to get better ranges. Then again, I might be able to get both (although I sort of doubt it...).
Now, my question is: Can this still be done if the overpressure (OP) release valve is plugged?
A follow-up question, if plugging the OP release valve does take away that feature, is: How much of a range increase did you get by plugging the OP release valve?
Finally, anyone know what the screw right next to the OP release valve is for?
Thanks in advance for any answers. It's just that I'm not sure whether I want to be able to refill a single air tank, or if I want to get better ranges. Then again, I might be able to get both (although I sort of doubt it...).
#127340 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 25 October 2007 - 03:59 PM
in
News
As far as the length of the cocking indicator (whether it is the actual plunger rod or not), I noticed that there is a whole in the stock; this leads me to believe that the arm is at least that long.
As far as how long that distance is, it's you guys' best guess.
As far as how long that distance is, it's you guys' best guess.
#127342 The El Snapo V.2
Posted by
on 25 October 2007 - 04:09 PM
in
Homemades
Freaking awesome, man. Nice work.
Is that a sponge between the barrel and the plunger chamber? Is it to soften the blow of the plunger, or perhaps to seal the barrel to the plunger chamber?
Is that a sponge between the barrel and the plunger chamber? Is it to soften the blow of the plunger, or perhaps to seal the barrel to the plunger chamber?
#127348 Nothing Ever Works For Me
Posted by
on 25 October 2007 - 04:25 PM
in
Modifications
For one thing, Precisionnerfer's 100' Nitefinder is an irregularity or a falsehood (Badger hasn't gotten back to us on that yet).
60 to 70 feet is more realistic for a Nitefinder, and that's with a spring and barrel replacement. For springs, check out your local hardware store, or McMaster (online store). People say the ACE hardware #49 or Home Depot's Handyman spring are good.
Unfortunately, I've yet to find a Handyman and there's no ACE around me. So, I went to Busy Beaver. Don't know how widespread those are, though...
As for the Mav, check out the placement of you plunger chamber. Some people place them wrong and thus worsen the seal between it and the turret.
Try modifying your darts for the LBB (in other words, make stefans), so that they can be pushed to the back of the barrel. That should improve range a little, at least. A new barrel and/or better fitting foam might help, too.
60 to 70 feet is more realistic for a Nitefinder, and that's with a spring and barrel replacement. For springs, check out your local hardware store, or McMaster (online store). People say the ACE hardware #49 or Home Depot's Handyman spring are good.
Unfortunately, I've yet to find a Handyman and there's no ACE around me. So, I went to Busy Beaver. Don't know how widespread those are, though...
As for the Mav, check out the placement of you plunger chamber. Some people place them wrong and thus worsen the seal between it and the turret.
Try modifying your darts for the LBB (in other words, make stefans), so that they can be pushed to the back of the barrel. That should improve range a little, at least. A new barrel and/or better fitting foam might help, too.
#127364 The Spidey Dart Tag Guns Thread (warning Big Pics)
Posted by
on 25 October 2007 - 05:33 PM
in
Modifications
That's definitely not the answer. The OP release valve is not in the pump like most Nerf blasters; rather it is on the end of the trigger cylinder. See Bag's first post, the 7th and 8th pictures down. And by the way, that 8th picture shows the screw I'm talking about, too. Thanks for trying though.The screw is just to hold the Pump head like a NF (I think...)
Anyone else have an answer to any of my questions?
#127371 Nothing Ever Works For Me
Posted by
on 25 October 2007 - 05:49 PM
in
Modifications
What ever you do, don't use 1/2" copper, my cousin and I found this out the hard way. As for the brass, you can get it in hobby shops. I think the standard size is 17/32", but it all really depends on your foam. My reccommendation is to take a dart with you and try different sizes out.
What Penguin said is basically correct, but I just wanted to add a few things. Mainly, it's about what a "good" fit is.
For your LBB, you want your dart to be easy to get in the barrel, but not so loose that it falls out. The correct brass size will probably 17/32" (if your darts a little small), 9/16" (if they're medium-sized), or 19/32" (if your darts are a little big). Then again, you may need something even bigger/smaller.
On the other hand, for a springer like the NF, you want a tighter barrel. So, use one brass size smaller than you use for your LBB. Or, you could even use a telescoping brass barrel (search for it).
Or, you could just use CPVC and get alright ranges. Maybe not the best ranges ever, but not bad, either. You may need to stretch your foam a little bit, though, especially for use in the LBB.
Oh, and by the way, if your make stefans from foam backer rod (FBR), be sure to get the 1/2" FBR.
#127391 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 25 October 2007 - 07:10 PM
in
News
Warning: Math Content!
Maybe this was kind of obvious, but...
I first measured the length (on the picture) that the slide looks like it can move. On my monitor, that turned out to be 17mm.
Since we know that the magazine pictured is the same as the LS mags, I then measured the width of the magazine in the picture: 14.5mm
From that alone, we can see that the length of the plunger draw and that of the LS mag are fairly close. To be more exact, however, we can use the relationship:
Length of slide movement (pic)/length of mag (pic) = length of slide movement (real life)/length of mag (real life)
Unfortunately, I don't know of any LS mags within 45 minutes of me (besides those in stores, of course). So, I can't give you the answer.
However, if someone would kindly measure the length of their LS mag (in inches or millimeters, doesn't matter) then multiply by 17 and divide by 14.5, we'll know the length of the plunger chamber.
Of course, that tells us nothing about the radius of the plunger chamber, but at least it's something.
Edit: Furthermore, to find total length, its the mag length times 122 and divided by 14.5.
Finally, the length of just the pistol (as far as I can tell) is the mag length times 44.5 and divided by 14.5.
Maybe this was kind of obvious, but...
I first measured the length (on the picture) that the slide looks like it can move. On my monitor, that turned out to be 17mm.
Since we know that the magazine pictured is the same as the LS mags, I then measured the width of the magazine in the picture: 14.5mm
From that alone, we can see that the length of the plunger draw and that of the LS mag are fairly close. To be more exact, however, we can use the relationship:
Length of slide movement (pic)/length of mag (pic) = length of slide movement (real life)/length of mag (real life)
Unfortunately, I don't know of any LS mags within 45 minutes of me (besides those in stores, of course). So, I can't give you the answer.
However, if someone would kindly measure the length of their LS mag (in inches or millimeters, doesn't matter) then multiply by 17 and divide by 14.5, we'll know the length of the plunger chamber.
Of course, that tells us nothing about the radius of the plunger chamber, but at least it's something.
Edit: Furthermore, to find total length, its the mag length times 122 and divided by 14.5.
Finally, the length of just the pistol (as far as I can tell) is the mag length times 44.5 and divided by 14.5.
#127479 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 25 October 2007 - 11:31 PM
in
News
jwasko et al. - In the event that the picture OMC has reflects the actual unit, it is obviously not to scale, and your use of the actual LS clip to establish scale doesn't much matter since your initial numbers were flawed. The clip, as shown, is in fact 19.4 mm, not 14.5, and the "slide" is 23.99 mm, not 17. Not that it much matters, as OMC said, it is pure speculation.
Although why would we multiply by 17 and then divide by 14.5? Why not just multiply by 1.1724?Only kidding, doesn't matter.
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "to scale." I mean, it's a picture, right? So, even though it's not actual size, all of the lengths should be some fraction of the real lengths. Unless I'm completely missing something, here...
As to our differing measurements, it's probably a difference in monitor size/resolution/ some-other-computer-thing-I-know-nothing-about. "Proof:" If you divide 23.99 by 19.4, you get 1.24, which is quite close to 1.17. I blame the difference in ratios on errors in measurement...or something. In any case, the difference overall would only be an added 0.22" in the length of the slide motion. And that's only good, right?
So, satisfied, Mr. Perfection? (just kidding)
And sorry, OMC, for bringing this up. I just thought that it would give us some perspective on the size of the thing. I didn't expect 3 people to post near-simultaneously with the same info.
#127524 Do You Think We Kind Of Have An Anarchy?
Posted by
on 26 October 2007 - 11:37 AM
in
General Nerf
Anarchy? No I'm pretty sure this forum is an Oligarchy. Or at it's worst a Despotism with some carefully chosen hand-puppets.
I was going to correct him on this, too...then I decided it wasn't worth it. But since you guys are doing it, and I'm bored right now:
To Mrtreldon1:
This site is anything but an anarchy. The dictionary says that anarchy is "lack of authority; disorder and confusion; the absence of any purpose or standard." I'd say that, aside from noob threads like this one, NH is quite the opposite of "absence of purpose," and the standards that our members our held to are quite strict (see: why idiots like you are banned). In addition, you yourself described this site more as being an authoritarian state than an anarchy.
And you know what? It is an authoritarian state. Yeah, Angel, Groove, Piney, and OMC can be pretty rough. But they're the elite for one reason or another, and that gives them the right. CXWQ may act like he owns the place, but that's because he (surprise!) actually does.
And for the record, the Bill of Rights protects individuals from the government, not other individuals.
So this is me, not being affected by your first amendment rights: Shut the fuck up and do something with your life.
And no, insulting others doesn't count.
#127603 Why Did You Choose Your Username?
Posted by
on 26 October 2007 - 09:32 PM
in
Off Topic
Well being one of the first forums I joined, I didnt realy have a catchy name, so I just have my name
C. Capogreca.
Same here, man. We're so unimaginative...
Oh, and Oro?: Rurouni Kenshin was one of the first animes I watched. It's a great show; too bad the DVD sets are always so expensive.
#127607 Do You Think We Kind Of Have An Anarchy?
Posted by
on 26 October 2007 - 09:47 PM
in
General Nerf
Well, Precisionnerfer, it's kind of like this: If someone insulted your close friend/loved one right in front of you, would you just walk away, or would you punch the offender in the face? Now, maybe Angel isn't a close friend, but we do have a lot to thank him for, including his mods and FBR sales.
Unfortunately, we can't punch the guy in the face. However, moderators can ban him until 203X, and the rest of us can insult him.
Or maybe we're all just really angry people. Yeah, one of those two.
Unfortunately, we can't punch the guy in the face. However, moderators can ban him until 203X, and the rest of us can insult him.
Or maybe we're all just really angry people. Yeah, one of those two.
I laughed at "gaping mangina."...mrteldon, you are a cockeating douche bag with a gaping mangina, and I would like to see your pathetic shitty attempt at creating a mod better than any of angel's.
#127707 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by
on 27 October 2007 - 05:54 PM
in
Modifications
Okay, maybe it's just that Loweses and Home Depots (especially Home Depots) in SW Pennsylvania are horrible and/or have idiots working there, but:
-I can only find Sch. 80 PVC (in particular, threaded "nipples") in one, out-of-the-way Lowes that's quite far from me.
-I've never seen a check valve in stores, or for that matter a decent sprinkler section; after much searching, I finally found out where to find the solenoid valves from a guy who deals plumbing parts to Lowes.
-I've never found a single compression spring in a Home Depot, and I've asked repeatedly.
Anyone have any tips for finding any of the above in a Home Depot or Lowes (there aren't any ACEs around me) that I don't only get to once every couple of months?
Thanks in advance.
-I can only find Sch. 80 PVC (in particular, threaded "nipples") in one, out-of-the-way Lowes that's quite far from me.
-I've never seen a check valve in stores, or for that matter a decent sprinkler section; after much searching, I finally found out where to find the solenoid valves from a guy who deals plumbing parts to Lowes.
-I've never found a single compression spring in a Home Depot, and I've asked repeatedly.
Anyone have any tips for finding any of the above in a Home Depot or Lowes (there aren't any ACEs around me) that I don't only get to once every couple of months?
Thanks in advance.
#127823 Socal Wildfire Help
Posted by
on 28 October 2007 - 03:10 PM
in
Off Topic
First of all: I pray for all of you in the area, that you remain safe.
Second of all: Hmm, never heard of "critical mass" used in any way except for in nuclear reactions (see: Wikipedia, although I have learned of similar things in Chemistry classes)
Third of all: Ironically, a combustion reaction involving an organic compound produces CO2 and water. Of course, and unfortunately, with the intense heat of the combustion, the water is in a gaseous state.
Lastly, I wish you you all good fortune in keeping yourselves, family, friends, and, yes, even personal possessions safe.
Second of all: Hmm, never heard of "critical mass" used in any way except for in nuclear reactions (see: Wikipedia, although I have learned of similar things in Chemistry classes)
Third of all: Ironically, a combustion reaction involving an organic compound produces CO2 and water. Of course, and unfortunately, with the intense heat of the combustion, the water is in a gaseous state.
Lastly, I wish you you all good fortune in keeping yourselves, family, friends, and, yes, even personal possessions safe.
#127897 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by
on 28 October 2007 - 10:34 PM
in
Modifications
Thanks, SHA, for answering my question, but in that case it seems my Home Depot doesn't carry them. I think they actually had one extension spring once, but that was it. I guess my hardware stores are just lame. 
#128123 New Nerf Blaster From Hasbro
Posted by
on 31 October 2007 - 01:25 PM
in
News
Nice......mid December...
Even nicer......$25 w/o shipping...
Now that's interesting, even if neither "mode" is actually useful. Do you remember anything about this, OMC?-Other features include a flip-up sight for aiming precision and a dual-mode light beam with red-dot accuracy that's perfect for night missions!
Also, note that (for those in the U.S., anyway) shipping is actually free. Sweet. Thanks for the info, CAPS. Hope it's real.
#128149 Now I Feel Stupid Now
Posted by
on 31 October 2007 - 05:25 PM
in
Modifications
Step 1: Purchase epoxy at your local hardware store. It's usually sold as a sort of double syringe that contains two compounds.
Step 2: Epoxy the s*** out of it, in basically the same places that you already did.
Edit: Although, CAPS's link will probably give you cleaner and potentially better results.
Edit 2: Not the link I thought he posted. Here is an excellent guide about epoxying "correctly." I just epoxied the s*** out of it, and it worked fine...although, I was using an odd 1/2" PVC couple->1/2" CPVC coupler setup. I can't remember if I used the AR base or not...
Step 2: Epoxy the s*** out of it, in basically the same places that you already did.
Edit 2: Not the link I thought he posted. Here is an excellent guide about epoxying "correctly." I just epoxied the s*** out of it, and it worked fine...although, I was using an odd 1/2" PVC couple->1/2" CPVC coupler setup. I can't remember if I used the AR base or not...
#128193 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 31 October 2007 - 11:33 PM
in
Homemades
I'm not sure about funny, but it is nice! Is that the inline clip on the front, there?
#128235 Happy Birthday Forsaken_angel24!
Posted by
on 01 November 2007 - 04:40 PM
in
Off Topic
Happy Birthday, Angel.
Good luck in all of this year's endeavors, in particular modding and nerfing.
Good luck in all of this year's endeavors, in particular modding and nerfing.
#128288 Longshot Random Firing Troubles! Urgent Help Needed- Humans Vs. Zo
Posted by
on 01 November 2007 - 10:14 PM
in
Modifications
Try adding/replacing the spring on the plunger catch. A spring from a pen may work, depending on the pen.
#128639 Naruto Mega Strike Shuriken
Posted by
on 04 November 2007 - 11:56 PM
in
General Nerf
I went back to my local target today, and they're now listed as 4.98...
So.... What do you guys think?
I'll take 20!
Just kidding, but they do look pretty cool. So, who's going to be the first to integrate an AT2k...or four...with turrets?
Actually, now that I think about it...
*Note to self:
#128645 Naruto Mega Strike Shuriken
Posted by
on 05 November 2007 - 12:09 AM
in
General Nerf
Yea, I agree with Jamie.
Guess you weren't, never mind.
#128655 Toronto Toys R Us Big Nerf Sale!
Posted by
on 05 November 2007 - 01:01 AM
in
General Nerf
It's worldwide go see the site catologue.
Hmm...I'm not seeing that. Got a link?
#128711 At2k Mod: Awesome, But....
Posted by
on 05 November 2007 - 06:26 PM
in
Modifications
It may be a bad check valve in the pump. It's not on the pump-rod itself, like the OPRV, but instead is in the pump tube itself.
To test the theory, pump it up (with the internals outside of the shell), then quickly remove the pump-rod from the tube and hold the tube to your ear. If you hear/feel air coming out, that's the problem.
It's really not too bad of a problem to fix...just replace the pump with another one.
To test the theory, pump it up (with the internals outside of the shell), then quickly remove the pump-rod from the tube and hold the tube to your ear. If you hear/feel air coming out, that's the problem.
It's really not too bad of a problem to fix...just replace the pump with another one.
#128846 Music
Posted by
on 06 November 2007 - 07:23 PM
in
Off Topic
I hate rap. Most other music is okay on a case-by-case basis, but I prefer "classic" rock. AC/DC, The Who, Queen, The Wailers and the Kingsmen (although, Louie Louie is all I've heard from either of the two), ELO, Donny Iris, STYX, America, Led Zeppelin, and many others (most of which I don't even know the name of the song let alone the band).
The second worst day of my life: The day I found out a variety station (BOB FM) bought out my city's (fantastic) classic rock station.
, again
I looked it up on Youtube and listened to it. Yeah, the lyrics are funny, but it still has the same effect on me as every other rap song: I feel like ripping my ears off and/or committing suicide. No, seriously.
Excuse me while I go listen to some good music. It's necessary for my health, you see.
"Okay, let's give it to 'em right now!" -Jack Ely
The second worst day of my life: The day I found out a variety station (BOB FM) bought out my city's (fantastic) classic rock station.
, againAnd those kids that are getting all stereotypical about Rap, listen to Rhymenocerous vs. Hip Hop Opotimus by Flight of the Conchords. Not all 'rap' is bad.
I looked it up on Youtube and listened to it. Yeah, the lyrics are funny, but it still has the same effect on me as every other rap song: I feel like ripping my ears off and/or committing suicide. No, seriously.
Excuse me while I go listen to some good music. It's necessary for my health, you see.
"Okay, let's give it to 'em right now!" -Jack Ely
#128856 Music
Posted by
on 06 November 2007 - 08:21 PM
in
Off Topic
I don't mean to diss it, I'm just telling the truth. If people like it, that's cool, but I really don't.I dont listen to rap but come on guys dont diss other people's music. Rap is ok next to Hip-Hop.
I definitely agree, however, that you shouldn't judge a person based on their music choice.
#128940 Music
Posted by
on 07 November 2007 - 03:09 PM
in
Off Topic
Why does everyone hate rap? I'm not trying to change your opinions, listen to what you want, but there must be some reason why 90% of you hate it.
WARNING!
Some or all of the following statements may offend some people. Please try to maintain an open state of mind, and keep this as a reasonable discussion rather than a flaming inferno.
In my mind, rap isn't really music. Now, don't get me wrong: it can definitely be a way to express one's feelings in much the same way that music does. But, I don't know...it's just not the same.
For one thing, there is rapping and then there is singing. Now, some rap "songs" do contain something very close to actual singing (I can't think of any examples...and, heck, maybe they weren't even rap) and I can actually stand to listen to those. The same is true for the "music" component of a rap "song." It isn't really music, just a very repetitive beat. Some rap has something more complex than just a straightforward beat, and, again, I can almost stand those rap "songs."
If anything, I would call rap a kind of poetry (which I'm not a big fan of, either), while other genres of music (all the rocks, country, jazz, swing, techno, etc.) are, well..."music." And I do like at least a few songs from each of those genres.
Similar to Carbon, I really don't listen to the words of a song...in fact, I can't understand a lot of them even if I try, anyway. Instead, I just sort of sit back, relax, and enjoy the experience of the music as I allow myself to zone out (particularly easy to do if it's late and I'm laying in bed waiting to fall asleep). So, rap generally doesn't have what I want in a song.
And, last but not least, is the effect that rap seems to have on me whether I want it to or not. I really did get rather depressed after listening to that joke-y rap song by Flight of the Conchords yesterday, even though I tried to like it...I even watched three different Youtube videos of it! A weird reaction, I know, but I really did feel horrible after that third time. *shrugs*
So, there you go, SHA. At least writing this took up a large chunk of "boring time" aka working in the mailroom.
#129141 Nerf...is It Stress Relieving Too You?
Posted by
on 08 November 2007 - 06:23 PM
in
General Nerf
Planning mods and (especially) modding itself are both pretty relaxing. They take my mind off of all the other crap I have to worry about. Plus, it just feels good to make something with my hands.
The only stressful part about modding is worrying that I might really break something, but otherwise I don't really care about the results until I go to test the mod...which is rather stressful:
Will it blow up or otherwise break?
Will it suck or will it be awesome?
Did I waste much time and a fair amount of money?
My biggest disappointments: My re-barreled BBB and Pump Action Shotgun. Both only barely outranged my NF (if they even did that). I figure that either the fit of my darts sucks, or I just need to replace the springs. Or both...
The only stressful part about modding is worrying that I might really break something, but otherwise I don't really care about the results until I go to test the mod...which is rather stressful:
Will it blow up or otherwise break?
Will it suck or will it be awesome?
Did I waste much time and a fair amount of money?
My biggest disappointments: My re-barreled BBB and Pump Action Shotgun. Both only barely outranged my NF (if they even did that). I figure that either the fit of my darts sucks, or I just need to replace the springs. Or both...
#129183 All Aluminum Paintball (and Nerf) Bolt-action Rifle
Posted by
on 09 November 2007 - 01:05 AM
in
Homemades
When I saw a "new" topic by Boltsniper, I thought "Well, either he's back, or some noob necro'd an old topic."
When I saw that it was indeed new, I almost shed a tear.
When I saw the pics, I got flashbacks from my early days on the NIC (nearly a year ago, now), and pouring over the FAR, SCAR-N, etc topics and webpages.
I'd almost forgotten how brilliant you are, Bolt. Almost.
Welcome back, man.
Edit: Almost forgot to explicitly say: Nice work! I can't wait for the next topic. What could it be...
When I saw that it was indeed new, I almost shed a tear.
When I saw the pics, I got flashbacks from my early days on the NIC (nearly a year ago, now), and pouring over the FAR, SCAR-N, etc topics and webpages.
I'd almost forgotten how brilliant you are, Bolt. Almost.
Welcome back, man.
Edit: Almost forgot to explicitly say: Nice work! I can't wait for the next topic. What could it be...
#129456 The Ratchetblast
Posted by
on 11 November 2007 - 06:43 PM
in
Modifications
The orange crosshair piece is also what keeps the gun straight. It locks into place in a notch on the back half of the blaster.
If you leave that part out (or just the spring), once you cock it it would be all...floppy...(yeah, that didn't sound quite right).
By the way, is anyone else's air rotation system a little...off? It didn't used to, but now mine shoots two darts at a time. And, if I look down the barrel, I see that the opening in the foam is in two barrels at the same time. A closer look, if I remember correctly, showed that the foam opening isn't perfectly lined up with the whole in the plastic (of the air rotation system).
One warning about breakage: The "bulkhead" that the spring pushes back on is a little prone to breaking. It actually happened when I was just putting the thing back together (a little wrongly) with the stock spring.
Good luck, Carbon.
If you leave that part out (or just the spring), once you cock it it would be all...floppy...(yeah, that didn't sound quite right).
By the way, is anyone else's air rotation system a little...off? It didn't used to, but now mine shoots two darts at a time. And, if I look down the barrel, I see that the opening in the foam is in two barrels at the same time. A closer look, if I remember correctly, showed that the foam opening isn't perfectly lined up with the whole in the plastic (of the air rotation system).
One warning about breakage: The "bulkhead" that the spring pushes back on is a little prone to breaking. It actually happened when I was just putting the thing back together (a little wrongly) with the stock spring.
Good luck, Carbon.
#129472 Foil
Posted by
on 11 November 2007 - 09:01 PM
in
Modifications
Speaking of which, I discovered on my LS that the main seal comes from the plastic plunger head. The O-Ring doesn't even touch the plunger tube.
Yeah, the stock O-ring is pretty useless. If I remember correctly, I added another one, so the rubber actually seals.
Nice mod Nerfturtle. I remember seeing one of these at a Toys R' US, but being too cheap to buy one (I remember it costing more). I hope they still have one.
Also, a side note: I've found that a piece of crayola marker fits well over the "air input" of an AT2k turret and (with the addition of a little electrical tape) fits tightly in a CPVC coupler. Just, you know, putting that out there in case anyone wants to know. *shrugs*
Edit:
Also, about the trigger position...maybe someone could try a version of the (if I remember the correct term)
#129487 Dayglo Lightsaber Battle
Posted by
on 11 November 2007 - 10:18 PM
in
Off Topic
Wow, my first Off Topic topic...
Anyway, I just read about this "Dayglo Lightsaber Battle" in Toronto.
I know I won't be attending (too far away from me), but I thought some of you may be in the area and find it fun. Details are on the afore-linked page.
Anyway, I just read about this "Dayglo Lightsaber Battle" in Toronto.
I know I won't be attending (too far away from me), but I thought some of you may be in the area and find it fun. Details are on the afore-linked page.
#129540 Solenoid Question
Posted by
on 12 November 2007 - 02:44 PM
in
Homemades
Note: Unfortunately, I can't watch the video right now, so I apologize if some of what I say does not apply.
I tried doing something similar to what you're talking about (see my topic entitled "The Viper").
Here's what I leaned:
1. An unmodified solenoid valve (i.e., one that actually uses the electrically operated solenoid valve) is not good for firing. Even with a large tank and more than 70 PSI, I was getting pretty pitiful rangess (15 feet, tops). And yes, I was using three 9v batteries wired in series (or sequence, or whatever it's supposed to be...I forget now).
2. In addition, an unmodified sprinkler valve may not close fast enough to be the firing valve (i.e., it will just let the pressure from the storage tank go on through the firing tank and into the barrel), due to the way a solenoid valve closes. However, with only the slightest of modifications, it should work fine (PM me for details on that modification). See below for more on how a solenoid closes.
3. However, an unmodified solenoid valve is very convenient for the valve in between the larger "storage" tank and the smaller "firing" tank, because it can be opened through the use of a momentary switch and closed simply by releasing the momentary switch. It's also good because you can have this valve somewhere besides directly on your homemade...I have mine on my backpack tank and have the wires bundled up with the airline going to the switch on my blaster.
Finally, a modified solenoid valve (which usually uses a blow gun to open it) or one with a manual bleed may be good enough to propel a dart a good distance at 30 PSI, but I don't know because I've never modified mine.
Now, for some general info:
Solenoids only function one way. In order too close, there must be pressure coming in fro the "back side." That pressure will force a diphragm down and seal the valve. So that no air can pass through to the "front side."
So, the answer to your question of "Can it only close once there is no more pressure on it?" is no. There must be pressure coming in from the backside in order for your solenoid valve to close. The solenoid itself (or the blow gun or the manual bleed) vent a little of this pressure from above the diaphragm and thus allow the valve to open.
In summary:
1. You might as well use an unmodified sprinkler valve as the valve between the storage tank and the firing tank, as long as you don't mind working with some electricity.
2. If you want to use another solenoid valve as your firing valve (between the firing tank and the barrel), you'll either need one with manual bleed or modify one. Or, just a different kind of valve altogether (maybe something like in the Dchap series).
Well, I hope I answered your questions.
PS: Just so you guys know, I am still working on the Viper; however, I've had to use a different kind of firing valve (as mentioned above). Plus, it's become much closer to a mod/integration than a homemade. I hope to finish it over Thanksgiving break, although there is one feature I would like to add that's giving me trouble...
Edit: Wow, four posts while I was writing that.
Sam: CS, in his thread about push-button valves, stated that they limit the airflow too much to be used as a firing valve. However, just like an unmodified solenoid valve, they are convenient for that valve in between the storage and firing tanks. (henceforth to be called the secondary valve, so I don't have to type so friggin' much
).
I tried doing something similar to what you're talking about (see my topic entitled "The Viper").
Here's what I leaned:
1. An unmodified solenoid valve (i.e., one that actually uses the electrically operated solenoid valve) is not good for firing. Even with a large tank and more than 70 PSI, I was getting pretty pitiful rangess (15 feet, tops). And yes, I was using three 9v batteries wired in series (or sequence, or whatever it's supposed to be...I forget now).
2. In addition, an unmodified sprinkler valve may not close fast enough to be the firing valve (i.e., it will just let the pressure from the storage tank go on through the firing tank and into the barrel), due to the way a solenoid valve closes. However, with only the slightest of modifications, it should work fine (PM me for details on that modification). See below for more on how a solenoid closes.
3. However, an unmodified solenoid valve is very convenient for the valve in between the larger "storage" tank and the smaller "firing" tank, because it can be opened through the use of a momentary switch and closed simply by releasing the momentary switch. It's also good because you can have this valve somewhere besides directly on your homemade...I have mine on my backpack tank and have the wires bundled up with the airline going to the switch on my blaster.
Finally, a modified solenoid valve (which usually uses a blow gun to open it) or one with a manual bleed may be good enough to propel a dart a good distance at 30 PSI, but I don't know because I've never modified mine.
Now, for some general info:
Solenoids only function one way. In order too close, there must be pressure coming in fro the "back side." That pressure will force a diphragm down and seal the valve. So that no air can pass through to the "front side."
So, the answer to your question of "Can it only close once there is no more pressure on it?" is no. There must be pressure coming in from the backside in order for your solenoid valve to close. The solenoid itself (or the blow gun or the manual bleed) vent a little of this pressure from above the diaphragm and thus allow the valve to open.
In summary:
1. You might as well use an unmodified sprinkler valve as the valve between the storage tank and the firing tank, as long as you don't mind working with some electricity.
2. If you want to use another solenoid valve as your firing valve (between the firing tank and the barrel), you'll either need one with manual bleed or modify one. Or, just a different kind of valve altogether (maybe something like in the Dchap series).
Well, I hope I answered your questions.
PS: Just so you guys know, I am still working on the Viper; however, I've had to use a different kind of firing valve (as mentioned above). Plus, it's become much closer to a mod/integration than a homemade. I hope to finish it over Thanksgiving break, although there is one feature I would like to add that's giving me trouble...
Edit: Wow, four posts while I was writing that.
Sam: CS, in his thread about push-button valves, stated that they limit the airflow too much to be used as a firing valve. However, just like an unmodified solenoid valve, they are convenient for that valve in between the storage and firing tanks. (henceforth to be called the secondary valve, so I don't have to type so friggin' much
).
#129654 The Ratchetblast
Posted by
on 13 November 2007 - 10:09 PM
in
Modifications
That may have been an ambitious idea, Rambo, but mine is...well, I might just have to go with "insane."
On Monday night, I was lying in bed, trying but failing to go to sleep. As they invariably do nowadays, my thoughts turned to Nerf:
I had been tossing around the idea of placing a pair of SMDTGs on a Mav rotating mechanism, but almost immediately realized that realized the problem that airlines cause when dealing with rotation. In order to avoid that, the "detonator"-style trigger would have to move around with the barrels/air chambers...which would then make it nearly impossible to use a fixed-trigger type of thing. But then, on Monday night, I suddenly thought about the Ratchetblast: it has a turret that doesn't turn.
So, getting to the mod/integration: It will be a Ratchetblast with four (yeah, that's right, four) SMDTGs clustered around it. The SMDTG triggers would actually be placed in the Ratchetblast barrels (with some modification to those barrels, of course).
Think that's crazy? Take a look at the plans for the internal modification:
I call it my "Firing-Pin Mod." Why? Well, can you see that brown piece at the end of the plunger chamber there? When the (slightly modified) plunger moves forward, it pushes against a block (the brown piece) which then pushes the pin out of the plunger chamber and into one of the Ratchetblast's barrels.
There, the firing pin pushes the SMDTG trigger all the way in and launches all three barrels of one of the SMDTGs. Recocking the Ratchetblast as normal allows a spring to pull the firing pin back, and the rotation of the plunger chamber will align the firing pin with the next SMDTG trigger.
Additional modifications to this thing would of course be to attach all of the SMDTGs to one (fair-sized) pump, or a backpack air tank. The net effect of all of the aforementioned mods will be to turn the Ratchetblast into a blaster capable of delivering four, (fairly) rapid-fire shotgun-like bursts. A benefit is that you shouldn't need to replace the spring. And, I don't know about you guys, but somehow I always thought of the thing being a shotgun. Maybe it was because of that Terminator 2 scene...I don't know.
As a little side note, I'm working on another idea that uses the same firing-pin Ratchetblast mod but (instead of one or more of the SMDTGs) it will integrate a homemade that utilizes a valve similar to what 3DBBQ used here
And, finally, a question: It looks like (although I don't particularly recall this feature from my childhood) that you can move the air output by repeatedly working the "lever." In other words, if the Ratchetblast is cocked but the output is lined up with an empty barrel, you can just work the lever and the output will switch to the next barrel...no need to dry fire in between shots. Can anyone confirm this feature?
On Monday night, I was lying in bed, trying but failing to go to sleep. As they invariably do nowadays, my thoughts turned to Nerf:
I had been tossing around the idea of placing a pair of SMDTGs on a Mav rotating mechanism, but almost immediately realized that realized the problem that airlines cause when dealing with rotation. In order to avoid that, the "detonator"-style trigger would have to move around with the barrels/air chambers...which would then make it nearly impossible to use a fixed-trigger type of thing. But then, on Monday night, I suddenly thought about the Ratchetblast: it has a turret that doesn't turn.
So, getting to the mod/integration: It will be a Ratchetblast with four (yeah, that's right, four) SMDTGs clustered around it. The SMDTG triggers would actually be placed in the Ratchetblast barrels (with some modification to those barrels, of course).
Think that's crazy? Take a look at the plans for the internal modification:
I call it my "Firing-Pin Mod." Why? Well, can you see that brown piece at the end of the plunger chamber there? When the (slightly modified) plunger moves forward, it pushes against a block (the brown piece) which then pushes the pin out of the plunger chamber and into one of the Ratchetblast's barrels.
There, the firing pin pushes the SMDTG trigger all the way in and launches all three barrels of one of the SMDTGs. Recocking the Ratchetblast as normal allows a spring to pull the firing pin back, and the rotation of the plunger chamber will align the firing pin with the next SMDTG trigger.
Additional modifications to this thing would of course be to attach all of the SMDTGs to one (fair-sized) pump, or a backpack air tank. The net effect of all of the aforementioned mods will be to turn the Ratchetblast into a blaster capable of delivering four, (fairly) rapid-fire shotgun-like bursts. A benefit is that you shouldn't need to replace the spring. And, I don't know about you guys, but somehow I always thought of the thing being a shotgun. Maybe it was because of that Terminator 2 scene...I don't know.
As a little side note, I'm working on another idea that uses the same firing-pin Ratchetblast mod but (instead of one or more of the SMDTGs) it will integrate a homemade that utilizes a valve similar to what 3DBBQ used here
And, finally, a question: It looks like (although I don't particularly recall this feature from my childhood) that you can move the air output by repeatedly working the "lever." In other words, if the Ratchetblast is cocked but the output is lined up with an empty barrel, you can just work the lever and the output will switch to the next barrel...no need to dry fire in between shots. Can anyone confirm this feature?
#129655 Modifying A Longshot?
Posted by
on 13 November 2007 - 10:18 PM
in
Modifications
If you want to separate the plunger tube from the bolt sled, you can't do it through anything short of sawing the two apart near the silver pin towards the bolt face.
Sorry, SHA, but I have to call that to be completely wrong. I was able to take a (very small) flat-head screwdriver and just push the pin out.
So, yeah, try to push the pin out...unless Hasbro started gluing the pin in or something stupid.
No disrespect meant, SHA.
#129660 The Ratchetblast
Posted by
on 13 November 2007 - 10:40 PM
in
Modifications
jwasko: You would have to be careful about the placement of the tubing for the SMDTGs. The valves would have to be placed on the front of cut-down barrels or something, since I recall the individual lines for each barrel coming out of the side of the valve housing.
Random: Does anyone else think the RB looks and functions uncannily like the Dispersion Gun from Timesplitters: Future Perfect? Perhaps a muzzle extension would complete the effect.
Yes, I figured I would cut slits on the outermost side of each barrel for the tubing to slide down down into.
Hmm, Dispersion Gun...*googles*...hey, yeah, it kinda does. I loved that game.
#129663 Scout Questions
Posted by
on 13 November 2007 - 10:43 PM
in
Modifications
Try replacing the spring on the catch; a spring from a pen might work.
