Shadow 92's Content

#78269 At4k Help

Posted by Shadow 92 on 31 March 2006 - 11:29 PM in Modifications

I had a similar problem with my Airtech 4000's rotation device. If you unscrew the grey, popsicle shaped rod that pivots around a peg on the white air tank, you should be able to pull the four pieces apart ( the rod, the egg shaped piece, the piece that resembles a curved triangle, and the part that is connected to the black and grey gears by a wire). Take off the rod and the egg shaped piece. When you take the two pieces off, look inside the piece that resembles a curved triangle and you should see a sort of semi circle with notches on the perimeter of the curved part of the semi circle. If you look at the egg shaped piece, the inside of it will have notches that match the shape of the piece that is inside of the piece that resembles a curves triangle. Stick that egg shaped piece on to the semi circle piece so if you were to turn the egg shaped piece to the right at a 90 degree angle, the black piece that is connected to the wire would also turn. Now just screw everything back together and it should rotate fine.

#83567 Searching For Kick Ass Guns (non- Nerf)

Posted by Shadow 92 on 21 June 2006 - 12:12 AM in Homemades

I'm pretty sure an airzooka can be modified into a nerf gun. If it can fire a rather large blast of air 30' away then it should be able to fire stefans a good deal away. Considering that it moves about 1,800 cubic inches (if I did my math right) of air at a speed a little slower than a BBB plunger, it would probably get SM5K ranges. Oh, and all that would be needed to be done is attach a funnel to th air output and connect a nested brass barell to it.

Airzooka Description

Megazooka Description

#85892 Do You Remember?

Posted by Shadow 92 on 27 July 2006 - 07:14 PM in General Nerf

The first nerf guns I ever owned were the Airtech 4000, 2000, and 1000. My mom bought the 1K for my sister, the 2K for my cousin, and the 4K for me. Six, years later, all that I have left is the 4K (I didn't know you could modify nerf guns when I was 8.) Although if it was the first nerf gun I ever used, I would have to say the pulsater.

#87802 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Shadow 92 on 19 August 2006 - 12:24 AM in Darts and Barrels

How I Make My Darts (Thanks to Falcon and Pat)

Materials
Low temp. mini hot glue gun
Hot glue sticks
Nerf Tagger darts
15 oz. Plastic cup
Ice water

Step 1
Take the Tagger darts and roll it in between the tips of your thumb and index finger until the glue around the edge of the rubber and foam separates from the dart. Then, lift the edges of the tip of the dart and gently work your way to the stem of the dart carefully separating the tip from the foam. Pull the tip straight up and out.

Step 2
Turn on your low temp. hot glue gun and leave it on until it can easily dispense glue and easily melt the tips of your darts.

Step 3
Using the tip of your mini hot glue gun, melt the tip of your Tagger darts until the tip of the glue gun is completely inside the foam. If you’re using a mini glue gun, then you should be fine, but if you’re using a full sized hot glue gun be sure that you don’t melt past the circumference of the darts. If you do this, your darts will become shorter. While the tip of the hot glue gun is inside the dart, quickly pump out three shots of glue into the foam and hold it parallel to the ground. The hot glue should not be filled to the top, rather enough prevent the next stream of hot glue from pouring down to the bottom of the dart.

Step 4
After you pump three shots of hot glue into your dart, turn it upside down and dip it into the 15 0z. cup filled with ice water. Once it’s in the ice water, count to ten, remove the dart and wipe of the outside of the dart with a paper towel, and get it ready to hot glue again.

Step 5
When you’re done drying the dart, use your hot glue gun to create a dome of hot glue on top of your dart. Because you let your hot glue gun heat up for a couple of minutes, the dome should naturally begin to form. As soon as the dome forms, dip the top half of the dart into the ice water and count to twenty. This step is important, it keeps the dome perfectly round and strangely reflective. If you dip the for too little or too much time, then the domes will be cloudy. The general rule of thumb is to take the dart out as soon as the dome hardens.

Step 6
Repeat 30 times.

Notes: I’ve made several other batches of darts and the ice water Tagger darts turn out to be the best due to their perfect tip and dart consistency. I usually make six sets of five for a total of thirty at a time. And in case anyone is wondering, I don’t weight my darts. I know that I would get better range but I prefer not to. If you want to, you can add a weight to the dart but it will probably move and become off centered unless your weight takes up the space of the hole.

Pros:
A nice shiny dome that’s been reflective for week now since I made them
Don't have to sculpt each dome

Cons:
Have to wait a little longer
No weights (less range than normal darts)

#88064 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Shadow 92 on 22 August 2006 - 03:56 PM in Darts and Barrels

Maybe try searching. Here's Falcon;s writeup:

Sam, I am really sorry. I should have clarified what the intention of my post was. I actually saw and used Falcon’s and Pat’s great write ups to making their Converted Dart Tag Stefans. But I don’t put weights in my darts and didn’t want to have to sculpt each and every dome of my dart. So, I posted the method that I used to make Tagger’s that were unweighted, had domes that didn’t need to be sculpted, and prevented hot glue from dripping all the way down to the bottom of my dart (which has happened). I don’t expect everyone to make their darts the way I do, I just wanted to let people know there is an alternative to putting weights in their CDTS’s. But anyways, thanks for friendly reminder instead of flamming. I appreciate that.

Has someone given a writeup on how to modify taggers to shoot out of a longshot? The ones I have jam in the clip and don't fire anyway.

Really? Mine shoot just fine out of my longshot and it's completley stock. Maybe some of the foam on the top melted when you made your hole and that made it shorter. This may be the cause if it's jamming in the magizine. Or is it jamming in the breech and not letting the part that slides forward (the one with the peg) slide forward? I'm stumped.

And so I'm contributing to to the thread, I reformated part of my earlier post that can be applied to all darts (Stefans or CDTS's).

When making the domes of my darts, I leave my hot glue gun on for awhile and then pour hot glue on. I then turn it over and dip it in ice water for about twenty seconds or until the tip hardens.

Pros:
The tip is reflective when done for exactly twenty seconds
You don't have scuplt the tip by hand

Cons:
Weights can become unbalanced if using splitshots or if using smaller weights

Note: I saw the first post about dipping the dart in ice water by Davis, but I found out about the reflective thing and wanted to share it.

#89129 New Longshot Mod/integration

Posted by Shadow 92 on 05 September 2006 - 05:43 PM in Modifications

Wow, if I wasn't holding my longshot right in front of me, I would have never guessed that you intergrated the front gun. That is really clean. It looks the best though because it matches.

I think Athena would be an excellent name for it, because she represented the disciplined and honored side of war as opposed to Aeris, who represented the chaos and distress of war.

#89216 New Longshot Mod/integration

Posted by Shadow 92 on 06 September 2006 - 05:56 PM in Modifications

I forgot to ask you this in my first post so, how sturdy is it and what did you use to glue it?

#89223 My Version Of The Scar-n

Posted by Shadow 92 on 06 September 2006 - 06:19 PM in Homemades

How hard is it to pull the pump back and prime the gun? If it isn't very hard, you might be able to squeeze out a couple more feet with a longer spring from Ace rather than the one and a half BBB spring. It's just a guess, because I'm not 100% positive about it, although I think I remember someone posting how a longer spring will generate more force than two springs of the same length total.

Anyways, great job! The shelless feature might actually convince me to build it.

#89782 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Shadow 92 on 15 September 2006 - 06:46 PM in Darts and Barrels

Why is not having to shape the dome by hand a pro? I like doing it, personally...

It's easier to get somewhat of a consistency.

I've stopped making CDTS's now and just stretch my foam to the exact same width of tham instead. I plan on drilling holes in the ones that are going to be used in my airguns and not drill holes for ones in my spring guns. And to quickly tell the difference between the two during a war, I'll use the sparkley red hot glue for my air darts and and sparkley blue for my spring darts.

Thanks for clarifying that sam.

#89783 High Powered Pistol(s)

Posted by Shadow 92 on 15 September 2006 - 07:04 PM in Homemades

Super Soaker to Nerf Mod
It's not as small as a Nite Finder, Tech Target, or SSII but it's still small enough to be a pistol. Try using stefans, you might get better ranges than what fobpawwor got. You can find the liquidator right here.

Or you could just single or quad an AT2K if you want amazing range without having to pump as much.

PS: I got an industrial spring similar to the one Carrtoon used. The results are very satisfactory but I feel like the plunger rod is going to break off every time I cock it.

#90452 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Shadow 92 on 25 September 2006 - 10:25 AM in Modifications

On a side note what color/scheme should I paint my X-bow? I just finished everything on it and it needs a color other than purple and silver duct tape. ....What do you think? This gun needs a paintjob, but what??

Paint the body blue, the grips black and the barrels and plunger rod silver all with Metalcast. Kind of like a first edition NF.

Yeah Falcon's right, you don't want to be painting over duct tape.

#90453 Simple Titan Mod

Posted by Shadow 92 on 25 September 2006 - 10:33 AM in Modifications

Nice mod, the only bad part is the barrel is not removeable, so you've got to ram rod it, and you can't switch barrels around.

It is 2 barrels in 1, micro and rocket. Ramroding is easier than breech loading in my point of view.

Wait, since there isn't a barrel constiction (ie. nested brass) shouldn't you be able to just blow your darts down the barrel instead of using a ramrod?

#90601 Where To Buy Modding Materials

Posted by Shadow 92 on 27 September 2006 - 11:19 AM in Modifications

Century Springs.com
This should help. I think Anima suggested it.

It's not really a material used for modding, but for homemades. Where can I get blow gun triggers, the ones used in modded sprinkler valves? Also, where can I get PETG or some other lightweight, translucent plastic tubing with a 17/32 and 19/32 ID? Thanks in advance for the help.

#90688 Guide To Barrel Material

Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 September 2006 - 01:22 PM in Modifications

I've got a question. If you replaced a spring in, say a Big Bad Bow, would you need a longer barrel than normal to compensate for the plunger's accelerated speed? Would the same concept apply to pump guns as well, swichting from a ballvalve to a sprinker valve because the air is also moving faster? And shouldn't nested brass barrels always be used in spring guns as opposed CPVC?

#90689 Cxwq

Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 September 2006 - 01:39 PM in Off Topic

What does VACC stand for?

#91016 Mav/nf

Posted by Shadow 92 on 01 October 2006 - 08:34 PM in Modifications

Do you need the little spring that's behind the air restrictor?

No, they keep the three prongs pushed up and heavily restrict air when a dart isn't laoded into the barrel. When a dart is loaded the spring compresses and allows more air to pass through the air resticters and thus firing the dart.

#91018 Boltsniper Gets Old!

Posted by Shadow 92 on 01 October 2006 - 08:41 PM in Off Topic

Happy belated birthday!

#91062 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Shadow 92 on 02 October 2006 - 12:47 PM in Modifications

Not much here. The SM3K has a trigger fix and it's pump is plugged. The LS still needs to be glued on, but both parts have their air restricters removed. And last are my DTGs, only the air resticters were removed.

Nice job on the Vaporizer/ Airtech intergration Trogdor!
What did you use to cover the Nerf logos when you painted your Longshot Boltsniper?

#91163 Types Of Piping

Posted by Shadow 92 on 03 October 2006 - 06:46 PM in Modifications

A three-step nested brass barrel would be your best bet for your Big Bad Bow or Longshot (if you figure out how to do that with a LS). But for air powered guns use PETG if it fits your darts. It's supposedly smoother on the inside than other barrel materials but is harder to find than brass or CPVC. If you want more information on the nested brass barrels I mentioned earlier check out the Darts and Barrels article.

#91268 Types Of Piping

Posted by Shadow 92 on 05 October 2006 - 01:50 PM in Modifications

Shadow, I just tried the 3 step nesting thing, with the exact sizes you posted, and got worse range than my simply cpvc barreled BBB. It seems the cpvc modded BBB got about 10 feet more than the 3 step nested BBB.

Hmm... That's unusual. How did your dart fit in the 9/32'' brass? It might have been that your darts are too loose or too tight. If that's true just switch to a different size. How was your seal batween the barrel and the plunger? You said that you rebarreled it three times. Maybe the brass barrel had a bad seal. Anyway, if you decide to keep the CPVC barrel congrats on finding the right barrel materialfor your darts. :rolleyes:

#91273 Types Of Piping

Posted by Shadow 92 on 05 October 2006 - 03:12 PM in Modifications

Google

Cross-linked polyethylene. PEX tubing is commonly used for hydronic radiant floor heat, but increasingly also used for water supply lines. Stronger than PE.
www.alpha-plumbing.com/plumbing-terminology-p.htm

I think it's the clear tubing with grey cross-links stuff I saw at Home Depot. It isn't hard and can be bent like vinyl tubing.

#94725 Next-gen Systems

Posted by Shadow 92 on 17 November 2006 - 07:02 PM in Off Topic

Sounds like not alot of you know much about the PS3. It comes with a 60 GB harddrive (which is more than the 360), a built in Blu-Ray DVD player, a sweet new controller, is backwards compatible with prevoius playstations, and is incredibly sleek and stylish. Having a built in Blu-Ray DVD player and being $600 makes it $400 cheaper than a regular Blu-Ray DVD player. All of the games will be on Blu-Ray format too so you're getting high definition graphics (better than the 360 or the Wii). The only problem is most televisions aren't good enough to view the PS3 at it's full potential. It'll still look alot better on your tv than your PS2 though. The picture posted showed the old, PS2 controller. The new ones that come with the $600 package are winged shape, semi-motion sensitive, and have heat sensitive buttons. With it being backwards compatible, you can play all the fun, older games like Gran Turismo, Ratchet and Clank, and Jak. And about it's size, it's really about the same size as the second version of the PS2, just rounded out.

Conclusion, I'm getting the X-Box 360 soley because of it's lower price (Christmas sales + Microsoft lowering their prices for competition right now) and because I'm addicted to Halo from the two four hour gaming sessions I had last week. The PS3 is a way better value but there just isn't a game out for it that I want. The 360 fits my situation, but go for PS3 if your looking for a sweet deal on a high def. DVD player and your hooked on a game right non or one that's coming out. I'm definately not getting the Wii, it can't compete with the 360's or PS3's graphics. Sure, it looks fun to play, but not fun enough to buy. So I'm for sure getting the 360, sometime getting the PS3 and not getting the Wii.

And sorry to put down Uncle Hammer's dreams of a universal gaming system, but it just won't happen. One company would have to buy out the majority of the other's stocks and Nintendo, Microsoft and Sony are just too big for that to happen. In the unlikliness that it did happen though it would suck for us. Less competitoin means less pressure to make better products and higher prices. Just look at what happened when Lanard came out, we got the Longshot and the LBB.

Just for the reccord all that info on the PS3 was from a non-hardcore gamer. I'm pretty mild. Just ask some of the gamers that camped out about the PS3, you could write a whole book.

#94727 Longshot Question.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 17 November 2006 - 07:30 PM in Modifications

I think I might have found out a way to brass a longshot and still create an airtight seal. I thought about replacing the barrel with 10'' of 19/32'' with 6'' of 17/32'' and putting it where Carrtoon put his barrel. Then you would trim the bolt like The Inventor Guy did, except you would put a 3'' section of 1/2'' brass into the bolt so only a small portion (1/32'') sticks out of the front. This way the dart slides into the 1/2'' section and the tip of that slides into the 17/32'' brass creating an airtight seal but still allows the bolt to move.

If you want, you're welcome to testing this and using this in your write-up Forsaken. I don't have brass so I won't be doing this anytime soon.

#95147 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Shadow 92 on 24 November 2006 - 12:48 PM in Modifications

Here's my new Longshot. It has a 10'' aluminum barrel that fits my darts pretty losely, but is still a way better fit than the original barrel. The only down side about the new barrel is that my darts jam with it, so I have to put the darts at the top of the barrel and let the dart slide into the bolt. I then push the dart further into the bolt so it's closer the plunger. This gives it maybe a 7-10' boost in range. You can't tell from the picture, but I finnaly got around to epoxing the front gun on. I tried super glue but it just wasn't sturdy enough. Now it feels even sturdier than the rest of the gun. With the new BBB spring I put in, it gets 70' flat consistently and up to 150' angled! It's my first gun to shoot past the century mark!
Posted Image

And here's my BBB. It was my first modified rifle and my first gun to shoot past the 50 foot mark. I was amazed by how much further it shot with just a crayola barrel. It has a tight fit with my darts but isn't enough t hinder the ROF. I also lightened the plunger by drilling a ton of holes on the large, winged-shape pieces on the plunger. I figured it was just dead weight. It shoots 57' flat consistently and up to 125' angled but doesn't have the accuracy my Longshot has.
Posted Image

#95493 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 November 2006 - 04:44 PM in Modifications

I don't see how the difference in your range with your angled to flat shots, that is not possible, or it doesn't seem that way. I have seen BBBs used as primaries, and 60 feet isn't very good for a primary, unless the ROF is amazing. My AT1K gets 65 (flat, I'm not shitting you) and the ROF is much better than my BBB. And where did you get that alluminum?

1. The difference in range is because the angled range isn't an average. I fired twenty shots from each and took the average distance for the flat range. I then took the three darts that went over 100' (in the case of my Longshot) and fired those at an angle. I did this to find the maximum range. Other variables might be the angle I fired at. I fired it at a 45 degree angle which may or may not be the angle most people use to measure their gun's angled range.

2. My BBB isn't my primary my LS is. The crayola barrel is just a temporary fix until I can get some brass, then I'm hoping I can get it to around 90'.

3. Actually, I'm not even sure it is aluminum. I found it in my house and I think it was part of a towel rack. It was originally 18'' long so I used the spare 8'' for the barrel of my now singled AT4K (I accidentally snapped a gear in half on the already broken rotation mechanism). The reason I think it's aluminum is because it's a silvery color and aluminum is a common metal so the chances of it being aluminum are high. I just hope it's not lead. :lol:

If you're into buying stuff online, then you can find it on McMaster-Carr. If not, then I guess your best bet would be Ace.

Falcon, was that PJ? Also, don't the four brass barrels make the X-bow extremely front heavy?

#95779 Christmas List 2006

Posted by Shadow 92 on 02 December 2006 - 11:09 PM in Off Topic

... But it's the holiday season. Consider this a present from the staff of NerfHaven. Ho. Ho. Ho.
I always knew that Santa was Hawaiian.

Hehe I might sig that.

Heres my list:

1. Maxshot
2. Magstrike
3. Another Longshot
4. One of thosse realistic lightsabers from Sharper Image
5. R2-D2 (the life size one with a cup holder)
6. X-Box 360
7. PS3
8. A jet pack
9. A kangaroo (they're actually legal pets where I live)

Out of the list, I bet I'm only really getting the Magstirke and the Maxshot. The rest of the stuff is just for kicks.

#97215 Magstrike Hair Trigger

Posted by Shadow 92 on 26 December 2006 - 10:39 PM in Modifications

Nice mod and write up, but instead of using balsa I used the spare plastic from the plate part of the wheel mech.

#97220 Glue Question.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 26 December 2006 - 10:51 PM in General Nerf

Hey Forsaken, are you sanding the pieces with a low grit paper before glueing? I noticed it makes a bit of a difference when glueing other stuff. And what kind of hot glue are you using? I think I remember Carrtoon gluing his X-Bow coupler with a high temperature glue stick.

#97514 My Paintball Gun Paint Job

Posted by Shadow 92 on 01 January 2007 - 01:41 PM in Off Topic

It looks good for it it being your first paint job. The lines came out pretty clean.

On a side note do you think I should buy an A-5 now, or save my money for an Angel? I heard they're legendary from the whole two weeks that I've been into paintball. I prefer woodsball so which one would be best?

#97515 Quick Ls Question (yes I've Searched)

Posted by Shadow 92 on 01 January 2007 - 01:50 PM in General Nerf

The spring helps out a ton. I have two Longshots and the one with a spring replacement gets 90' and the one without gets about 40". Despite the large size of the stock spring it doesn't generate much force due to the fact that it's a smaller gauge. Do you have a BBB? If so take out the spring and bring it to a hardware store and look for a spring with a similar size and thickness. That way you can still use your BBB.

#97830 Guide To Barrel Material

Posted by Shadow 92 on 06 January 2007 - 10:24 PM in Modifications

I've got another question. I just ordered some 0.5" ID PETG from McMaster and realized that its ID is too small for my darts. My question is; Can I use a 9/16 drill bit to widen the ID on the PETG even though it will leave 1/16” of space with it’s 5/8 ID? If not is there any other way to evenly widen it?

(Sorry for the double post)

#97836 Guide To Barrel Material

Posted by Shadow 92 on 07 January 2007 - 12:12 AM in Modifications

Thanks nerfer34. I found several 9/16 drill bits at Lowes and Home Depot and combined with the bit extensions, I should be able to drill all the way through the barrel.

#98886 Longshot Modification.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 January 2007 - 10:25 AM in Modifications

Wow, this helps out a lot! I am definitely going to do this as soon as I get some brass. It’s amazing how many problems you fixed by remaking the bolt. And the shot-gunning thing is just pure genius! Three darts with a decent spread! I just have two questions, what’s the point of the tightening rings and where can I get them?

#98887 Petg Barrel Magstrike

Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 January 2007 - 10:31 AM in Modifications

Was that PETG purchased from OMC?

Yeah what is the ID and OD of the PETG that you're using? And did you have to sand the inside of the clip at all the make room for the PETG? Anyways nice job it looks clean and effective.

#98909 Longshot Modification.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 January 2007 - 08:22 PM in Modifications

I just thought of something. What if instead of where you have the 9/16 with the tightening rings you have 10" of 9/16 with 6" of 17/32 starting where the rings begin? That way you have the full effects of a true progressive barrel with your existing breech.

Here's my ten minute paint drawing of it.
Posted Image

The light gray is the 9/16, the blue is the 17/32, the green is the 1/2 and the other color is the 19/32.

#99258 How To Make A Homemade Turret

Posted by Shadow 92 on 04 February 2007 - 10:44 AM in Modifications

I don't really get it. What's the spring for? I know that the spring in an Airtech 2000 is used to lock the barrels into place but since you don't have the locks on your barrel, why would you need it? Anyways nice job.

#99630 Beginner's Guide To Machining Plastics

Posted by Shadow 92 on 11 February 2007 - 05:32 PM in Modifications

Nice topic, it helped me out a lot.
I've got a couple questions:

1. What is heat warping and why would you use it?
2. Where can I get plastic drill bits that are .5345", .5033", and .5" wide?
3. Do you recomend any good brands for scroll saws?

Thanks

#99816 Beginner's Guide To Machining Plastics

Posted by Shadow 92 on 14 February 2007 - 08:52 PM in Modifications

2. 0.5312" = 17/32"
0.5033" does not exist
0.5" = 1/2" and is quite common
They're available through mcmaster, but if you are planning on making your own barrels it is not advised to attempt doing so unless you have access to a quality machine lathe. It's advisable to simply purchase the tubes you need that already have the inner diameter that you require.

So you're saying that I can order the drill bits through Mcmaster even though they aren't plastic drill bits? I planned on using the 1/5" PETG from Mcmaster and using the drill bits to widen the inner diameter of the barrel with the exact same ID as a nested brass barrel. This way I would be able to to put progressive barrels on a turreted gun like a DTG without worrying about the barrels being too heavy. And if I can't use the drill bits to widen the ID of the PETG, how would I do it with a lathe? Also, what kind of lathe would I have to buy, a metal working or a woodworking?

#99821 Beginner's Guide To Machining Plastics

Posted by Shadow 92 on 14 February 2007 - 09:25 PM in Modifications

If you want an ideal cost effective barrel material I would recommend mcmaster part# 1658T49
Alloy 6063 Aluminum Round Tube .625" OD, .527" ID, 8' Length = $7.41 for 6 feet
I recommend that you NOT consider attempting changing the inner diameter of or trying to drill your own barrels out of plastic unless the tubing you have has very thick walls.
And even then it's very touchy work that requires quality tools (we're talking $2000+ machining tools here).

The only problem with the aluminum is that I won't have a progressive barrel. It looks like a promising substitute for my air guns and when I need a lightweight barrel but other than that it won't work for the jobs I have in mind. The PETG I'm using is the 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD variety so do you think that the walls will be thick enough? Also what makes dilling the PETG so touchy? As long as I clamp it down and drill straight I should be fine, right?

#99876 Beginner's Guide To Machining Plastics

Posted by Shadow 92 on 15 February 2007 - 08:00 PM in Modifications

The only exception is on a lathe. If you are trying to do anything to change the dimensions of a plastic cylinder, it has to be done on a lathe. Otherwise your results will be terrible or extremely dangerous.

So what kind of lathe should I get and how would I use it to widen the hole? And will I still be able to widen the hole even if I'm widen something that is a foot long?

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