Funky Mutha Facko's Content
There have been 103 items by Funky Mutha Facko (Search limited from 19-January 97)
#330131 Z-tech Arrows
Posted by
on 22 May 2013 - 11:56 AM
in
Darts and Barrels
#332072 Yet Another Wye Iteration
Posted by
on 18 July 2013 - 07:51 AM
in
Darts and Barrels
That one that was at ddfd had it's barrel broken off while attached to a blaster and the wye took the hit with no problems.
#319888 Would this mod work?
Posted by
on 04 August 2012 - 10:16 AM
in
Modifications
#323965 Wills Win-ter War II
Posted by
on 27 November 2012 - 09:51 AM
in
Nerf Wars
#331557 Will Custom Darts Work in Stock Barrels?
Posted by
on 04 July 2013 - 08:58 AM
in
Darts and Barrels
#322510 Vote for NH's Next Avatar Pack
Posted by
on 12 October 2012 - 07:59 PM
in
Off Topic
#313966 Tyco blaster help
Posted by
on 04 April 2012 - 02:30 PM
in
General Nerf
Found this blaster and it wouldn't catch so I opened it up.
It looks as if the tension spring was just to much for the poor old plastic to hand. My question is this, has anyone repaired this break before? I found pictures and info about the blaster here and it looks like this is a common problem.
#313970 Tyco blaster help
Posted by
on 04 April 2012 - 05:17 PM
in
General Nerf
#324817 Triad Barrel Replacement
Posted by
on 28 December 2012 - 12:11 AM
in
Modifications
Lets start!
Break down your blaster following Shadow the HellJumper's tutorial. You will also need to remove the trigger and the plate at the bottom near the priming handle. Push up on the black rubber piece from inside the plunger tube and it will pop free. Here it is all taken apart.
If you examine the barrels you will see only a very small part of it actually grips the dart. The dart on the left is where it would stop if you dropped it into the barrel, and on the right is if you pushed it all the way in.
Cut the trigger guard free from the front barrel and score the plastic above the trigger where it meets the blaster so it will tear more easily. Then just cut the barrels off as shown.
Clean up the cut area so you have a nice even surface.
Next, cut three barrels of equal length. I chose a length that would hold clip system darts completely inside the barrel. I can't remember what the barrels are made of, but they have a great fit on stock darts and has the same od as cpvc.
Carefully glue your barrels to the openings where the old ones used to be. I glued the barrels on using multiple layers of superglue, cured with baking soda. I only glued them partially, then added the front spacer, and then went back and really stuck them in place with a few more layers of superglue. Using baking soda to cure superglue kicks ass. If you have never tried it, you really should.
Here are a few shots of the final product.
Make sure to lubricate the plunger tube, plunger head, and the black rubber piece that connects the pt to the air restrictor housing.
EDIT: My lower barrel kept getting awful ranges due to a rubber disk that sits on top of the white part in the air restrictor setup. The rubber part wouldn't move back with the white part and get stuck half way. Then when the barrel was fired the rubber part would close off the barrel prematurely.
Clean the white part and the back of the rubber part with a little alcohol on a q-tip and let dry. Then VERY CAREFULLY add a very small dot of glue between them and allow the spring to push them together. This made all inconsistencies in ranges stop.
As far as ranges go.... sadly it seems to be getting almost the same ranges as a stock triad. I may try out some different barrel materials or lenghts on my next triad rebarrel. At least this mod made this a much more reliable blaster by removing the chance of darts slipping once loaded.
Hope to see somebody take this and really show me up by making it work. The possibility for better ranges is there, we just need to get there.
#324855 Triad Barrel Replacement
Posted by
on 28 December 2012 - 10:15 PM
in
Modifications
Are those air restrict-ors still inside the barrels?
Yes, this is probably the first barrel replacement ever to keep the air restrictors in place. I did remove the pegs though.
I think the OMW vulcan spring works in that.
I heard that as well, on NM&R. I plan on ordering both the 5kg and 6kg vulcan springs to test out.
Also, the reason it may be firing strangely is because of the ar dart-selector setup.
The ar is probably fully decompressed, while the dart is still in the barrel.
Have you tested what darts work best? It may be how long the're in the tube after the decompression.
Good luck, hope this helps,
Mully
That had crossed my mind, but I figured that the stock barrels would be even worse if that was the case. I found the culprit.... keep reading.
Nice. You just used the stock orange plastic thing for a spacer, right? Does one barrel fire farther than the others?
The orange plastic piece on the front is unmodified except that I cut it free from the trigger guard.
When testing it last night it seemed all over the place, but today it was more consistent. This may be due to dart size.It seems to prefer a slightly loose dart fit. If I was to do it all over again I'd use 17/32 brass or petg, but these barrels may be better after the spring is upgraded.
I have found the problem with barrel inconsistencies. Looking into the opening of the ar valve assembly I saw a new component to the "air restrictor", a rubber piece that floats on the white pegs. This piece looks like it was designed to sit inside the white part to make a better seal when no dart is inserted. This rubber part is not attached to the white piece and sometimes gets stuck in sideways. And when you fire that barrel with that piece floating in the path of the air it gets pushed up and closes the airway of that barrel. I will get pictures when I get it open.
The solution to this problem will be simply to glue the rubber to the white ar valve part. To do that I will need a way to get into the valve assembly without destroying it. There appear to be two tabs holding it together, but I can't get it to budge.
Extra Info: The top two barrels were shooting near 75ft with darts that were cold and had shrunk a bit from being outdoors today. I expect that after the valves are fixed this blaster will rock slug darts only. The next one will be sporting some petg/brass barrels, and work great with stock darts. The original post will be updated when the I have a final product that deserves a spot in the modification directory.
Oh, and thank for your ideas and compliments. I look forward to seeing somebody else take a stab at it. Or even better…… beat me to re-barreling a RoughCut 2x4.
#320953 THE B.L.A.R.P.E.R.
Posted by
on 24 August 2012 - 06:41 PM
in
Homemades
#327402 Strongarm turret extension, post and lock removal.
Posted by
on 27 February 2013 - 05:10 PM
in
Modifications
#314021 SSPB Pump Replacement and Large Tanks
Posted by
on 05 April 2012 - 07:45 PM
in
Modifications
#324887 Separating the Strongarm Turret
Posted by
on 29 December 2012 - 01:10 PM
in
Modifications
Today's tip: Every nerfer should pick up a long hemostat for getting into those really tough to reach places.
#324690 Rough Cut AR/peg removal
Posted by
on 23 December 2012 - 02:24 PM
in
Modifications
#321208 Rampage BuzzBee LongShot Attachement
Posted by
on 29 August 2012 - 05:58 PM
in
Modifications
#331350 pumpsnap priming handle
Posted by
on 27 June 2013 - 09:00 PM
in
Homemades
#323275 problem with vortex blasters dropping mags?
Posted by
on 02 November 2012 - 09:56 AM
in
Modifications
#330659 Potential Distributer Network
Posted by
on 08 June 2013 - 09:01 AM
in
Off Topic
#329757 polycarb barrel help
Posted by
on 13 May 2013 - 09:20 AM
in
Darts and Barrels
#316833 Painter's Bow
Posted by
on 10 June 2012 - 05:00 PM
in
Homemades
The bow arms are one continuous 4ft length with a hold drilled for the barrel to pass through. Thanks for the props.Are the bow arms one piece, with the hole for the barrel drilled through it, or are the 3/4 cpvc arms actually two separate pieces solvent welded or otherwise attached to the 3/4 pvc pieces?
I found my tubing in person at American Science and Surplus. I can't find it on their site but you may be able to. It is 9/16 OD and that is the same size as the vinyl tubing. I ran the rubber directly through where the vinyl was and am not afraid of it wearing to much because it has rather thick walls. It was around $2 a foot, and if it does break I can always buy more and make a larger hole to hold some larger vinyl to protect it.Where would one find such rubber tubing? Is it necessary to cover the rubber with vinyl like with string?
#316816 Painter's Bow
Posted by
on 10 June 2012 - 09:51 AM
in
Homemades
Going to ace tomorrow to find better bow arms as well as a new handle for the pr for when I cut it down.
Continued......
So I cut the plunger tube and tube-rod down to a 9in draw, sanded the 3/4in pieces even more on the inside to accept the 3/4in cpvc arms. This baby is beast.
It is now only shooting one dart at a time as it should. The painters bow easily hits that 100 mark, and can easily be tightened or made more loose to adjust ranges to wherever I'd like them to be.
The only downside to using a bow like this is it's size, and now that is optional as well.
The bow arms can easily be switched out for the more compact version that uses rubber tubing as the power source instead of the long arms. The full size bow is easier to draw than this, but the tubing is much smaller, and puts out the same power, if not more power that the arms.
If you haven't ever tried rubber tubing before I would suggest picking some up. This little bow blew my socks off when I installed that tubing. Friggin scary potential.
#316674 Painter's Bow
Posted by
on 07 June 2012 - 09:12 AM
in
Homemades
#316598 Painter's Bow
Posted by
on 06 June 2012 - 09:20 AM
in
Homemades
Took it outside last night and took a few shots down the alley. Estimated range would be around 100ft with the first dart, 50 with the second, and twenty with the third. It was consistently shooting three darts each time. This morning I shortened the bow strings until I got it to shoot fast enough that only one dart fired. That lasted for about three shots when the pvc began to lose its elasticity and it began to fire two, then three darts again. I will have to go pick up some 3/4 in cpvc before work and see how that holds it's shape tonight.
I can see the glue beginning to separate from the pt so I will have to throw some screws in the bushing and a little padding on the ph to make it last. The draw is so long that I cannot use my left hand to hold the bow arm and instead have to hold the tube making it more difficult to aim, although I did manage to him my old lady at that 100ft mark with no problem. I'm think I'll cut it down a bit to make it overall more comfortable and functional.
I'm sure this same kind of bow could be made using one of those pool water guns that are pull to fill and push to shoot. Plus they have those at the dollar store. I would like to add a trigger, and could make a catch point easily by cutting a notch out of the rod-tube. Using a clothespin is out of the question though because the nail would just tear up the plastic. I'll have to find some other way to make it work.
#316580 Painter's Bow
Posted by
on 05 June 2012 - 08:45 PM
in
Homemades
It sat around my house for a while. Occasionally I'd pick it up, look at it, think "How can I put a spring in this thing?" Then it would go back to collecting dust. Inspiration struck after seeing the superpac and having one of those "DUH" moments where I realized that that it could be bow powered. Found what I needed on how to build it from Kane's Aabow and Ice Nine's bow powered +bow.
Hello Painter's Bow
Pretty much hacked off the roller part and glued what I believe was a 1in to 1/2in bushing (with a lil e-tape) into the plunger tube. Constructed the tee from a 1/2in input to 3/4 output tee, two segments of 3/4in pvc bored out to fit the 1/2in bow arms. Slid all that together and
The rope runs through vinyl tubing that itself goes into a hole dremeled into the plunger rod tube(not actually a rod).
And here is the rope connected to the bow arms.
Currently using a 12in barrel and a 7 dart hopper. Both could be larger I'm sure. With 19in of draw length, by the time the plunger head reaches it's stopping point it shoots at least two darts, sometimes more. It may just be do damn big. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.
This was my first attempt at any king of homemade, and it was a great warmup. The drill press I recently acquired is currently packed behind a bunch of crap in my storage locker so I had no option but to use a dremel for all the "drilling." It came out pretty clean for just eyeballing all the holes. I considering adding some kind of handle and catch system, but it needs to be firing correctly first.
#331250 NUCLEAR
Posted by
on 25 June 2013 - 08:29 AM
in
Nerf Wars
Time for you to work on a new game type, radioactive zombie rounds!
#310914 NiteShot Help
Posted by
on 08 February 2012 - 03:14 PM
in
Modifications
all the way down that barrel. It should get much better. A longer barrel will also help.
#317204 Nining a Recon
Posted by
on 19 June 2012 - 08:27 PM
in
Modifications
#310105 Nerf Stampede "Brass Breech" Mod Guide!
Posted by
on 25 January 2012 - 06:43 PM
in
Modifications
With those ranges and rof, I can't even think of anything else that comes close.
I'm just blown away.
#317278 Nerf Red Strike Series
Posted by
on 21 June 2012 - 09:50 AM
in
General Nerf
#312796 Nerf Barricade - Voltage increase, inbuilt voltmetre, safety removal
Posted by
on 13 March 2012 - 02:50 PM
in
Modifications
#319892 Need painting advice!
Posted by
on 04 August 2012 - 11:16 AM
in
General Nerf
#322275 NE wisconsin nerf?
Posted by
on 07 October 2012 - 10:32 AM
in
General Nerf
#310300 Mystery 1988 Blaster
Posted by
on 29 January 2012 - 11:57 AM
in
General Nerf
I know how much I miss the manta ray I had as a kid, and If someone loved this babeh the same way I just couldn't bring myself to kill it. On the other hand, the funky internals make meh want to mod it to take foam, maybe pt replacement. Throw some lights in it and go shoot the people that are always falling asleep in the living room at my buddy's house.
#322397 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 09 October 2012 - 07:24 PM
in
Modifications
OPRV kicks in at 7 pumps and is still hitting as hard as 15 pumps plugged. PM for more pics.
And I know you are sick of panthers, so am I. We really need to start doing better things with them than this.
#325399 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 17 January 2013 - 12:59 AM
in
Modifications
PAS ball shootin attachment. N-Strike stock attachment point with clear raider stock.
Titan-Mav with shotgun rscb.
#328870 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 19 April 2013 - 09:29 AM
in
Modifications
I'll throw this on here too. Titan spectre that still needs finishing touches, and added a second rail to my rough cut for better placement of the eight dart holder.
#325085 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 05 January 2013 - 05:02 PM
in
Modifications
The Triad needed something more, a finishing touch if you will. So here are a few pics of the triad sporting a little bit-o-tacticool.
The Firestrike with minimization and cosmetics using the scrap shell plastics.
Sharpshooter II re-barreled and plunger tube replaced Expand a Blast (EAB)
Holds a full [k26], delrin plunger rod, aluminum spacers and a bolt for the handle.
In all its glory
Hope you enjoyed
#309607 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 16 January 2012 - 07:45 PM
in
Modifications
FurFinder
Green Lantern Maverick
#323693 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 18 November 2012 - 12:49 PM
in
Modifications
Switch Shot + tank expanded SSPB + Recon Light Attachment + Stampede Shield + Jolt + Panther + Recon tactical rail + Barrel Break dart holder + 2x Max D 3000 pumps.
Once primed, all shots can be fired with the hand that is holding the switch shot, freeing up the other hand for another blaster, shield, or melee. I plan on using a manta ray in my other hand.
