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Rough Cut AR/peg removal

Its confusing as hell, you need one to understand it.

22 replies to this topic

#1 mysterio

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 02:04 AM

In this mod, you do not need to boil the turret, as it is friction fit, and will possibly deform in the water.
This is a peg removal and airflow mod, the physical air restrictors or "valves" are crucial to the function of the blaster's turret.

Materials needed:
Etape or goop
flathead screwdrivers
scissors or thin cutting tools
screwdriver

Begin with your Rough cut turret

Unscrew screws and pop off the top. You get this.

Posted Image

Pry in the indicated spots.

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Front lip should open

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Keep going till you get that.

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And youre in!

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Take out the bottom two air restrictors.
Plug up those holes as well. Etape will suffice.

Snap those pegs out

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Do not break anything else off.

Reassemble and enjoy!

Edited by mysterio, 23 December 2012 - 10:24 PM.

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If two powerful is a problem then just go with one powerful. I guess this style of hopper will work even beyond three powerful..


15:46 *** Buff is now known as TheGdiddler
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#2 therealnerfjunkies

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 03:46 AM

Can you show a picture of all the internals? It would be greatly appreciated.
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#3 Super0dp

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 06:51 AM

Should I boil the barrels before trying to pry them open?
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#4 Griever 2112

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 08:45 AM

Few questions since you were the first one to brave this...

1) Couldn't you just drill out the peg with a Dremel instead of removing the whole post?
2) Did you put the A/R's back since that is was determines the barrels?
2a) If you didn't put them back, are you firing all 8 barrels at once and is it hurting ranges (one would ultimately assume)
3) sorta revisiting 1, it is necessary to pry open the whole front assembly in order to get to the dart pegs if they can be drilled?
4) How significant is the range increase? (This seems like a lot of work, and fairly risky since precision is really required for just 5 feet)
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#5 Guitarzan

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 08:50 AM

I bought a rough cut the other day, and though I have yet to take it apart I could tell from the just using it that taking the Ar's out is a bad idea. Again I'm not totally sure how yet, but pushing the dart against the air restrictor is an integral part of the mechanism that selects which barrels the blaster is going to fire from. Without them I can guaruntee that the 2X4 functionality will be lost. You didn't really show reassembly in your writeup, but do you put part of the AR back into the blaster after removing the peg?
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#6 mysterio

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 01:12 PM

Few questions since you were the first one to brave this...

1) Couldn't you just drill out the peg with a Dremel instead of removing the whole post?
2) Did you put the A/R's back since that is was determines the barrels?
2a) If you didn't put them back, are you firing all 8 barrels at once and is it hurting ranges (one would ultimately assume)
3) sorta revisiting 1, it is necessary to pry open the whole front assembly in order to get to the dart pegs if they can be drilled?
4) How significant is the range increase? (This seems like a lot of work, and fairly risky since precision is really required for just 5 feet)


Dont boil the turret

yes, but my dremel is not with me

the ar valves were put back into place. I'm not that derpy.

this is more for stefan compatibility than range, but a good 10-15 feet is likely

you can't drill from any direction, either the peg itself or the valve will get in the way.

its not hard at all. had this thing apart in ten minutes the first time I opened it.
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If two powerful is a problem then just go with one powerful. I guess this style of hopper will work even beyond three powerful..


15:46 *** Buff is now known as TheGdiddler
15:51 TheGdiddler I'M GONNA GRAPE YOU"

#7 Mully

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 01:49 PM

This is awesome:)
Great mod, have you considered a spring replacement?
How good is the seal?

Mully
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#8 mysterio

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 02:12 PM

Seal is ok, easily improved by teflon tape. Do not replace the spring. it will strip the gears and render your blaster useless
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If two powerful is a problem then just go with one powerful. I guess this style of hopper will work even beyond three powerful..


15:46 *** Buff is now known as TheGdiddler
15:51 TheGdiddler I'M GONNA GRAPE YOU"

#9 Exo

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 02:47 PM

So if all you're doing here is removing the pegs, why not just twist them off with needle-nose pliers? What's the benefit of also taking out the plate that they are attached to?
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#10 hamoidar

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 04:09 PM

So if all you're doing here is removing the pegs, why not just twist them off with needle-nose pliers? What's the benefit of also taking out the plate that they are attached to?

By removing the plates you allow for a bit more airflow.

Edited by hamoidar, 18 December 2012 - 04:09 PM.

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#11 Jilliop

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 05:11 PM

In the second to last picture, I see holes in the barrels. Could plugging those improve ranges, similarly to plugging the hole on a Recon barrel?
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#12 mysterio

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 07:26 PM

In the second to last picture, I see holes in the barrels. Could plugging those improve ranges, similarly to plugging the hole on a Recon barrel?


By removing the plates you allow for a bit more airflow.




You also dont run the risk of having half snapped off pegs.

Heres a pic of what happens when you spring replace

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If two powerful is a problem then just go with one powerful. I guess this style of hopper will work even beyond three powerful..


15:46 *** Buff is now known as TheGdiddler
15:51 TheGdiddler I'M GONNA GRAPE YOU"

#13 2TAGS

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 08:48 PM

Sorry about the gear. Exact thing happened to mine with an 8kg spring. It snapped the teeth right off
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#14 Crater

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 05:19 PM

If the gear's made of ABS, you could try strengthening it by sticking it in boiling water for a few minutes and then cooling it in cool water. Of course, that will only help gears that aren't yet broken.
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#15 CaliforniaPants

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 04:27 AM

I dont really see why you wouldnt try heating up the barrels to avoid those ugly pry marks, and especially why you didnt answer the question about plugging the barrel holes
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#16 Funky Mutha Facko

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 02:24 PM

Has anybody just twisted out the pegs with pliers? I really don't want to open it up until I get a second to do a full re-barrel. I have a war next week and just want to be able to shoot streamlines.
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#17 hamoidar

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 08:59 PM

Has anybody just twisted out the pegs with pliers? I really don't want to open it up until I get a second to do a full re-barrel. I have a war next week and just want to be able to shoot streamlines.

Just try it and see. If it doesn’t work you can just use mysterio’s method.
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#18 mysterio

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 10:20 PM

I dont really see why you wouldnt try heating up the barrels to avoid those ugly pry marks, and especially why you didnt answer the question about plugging the barrel holes


Sure, but you also run the risk of deforming the barrels

I've been away for several days, so pardon my untimely answers. I'll edit in everything to the main post.
  • 0

If two powerful is a problem then just go with one powerful. I guess this style of hopper will work even beyond three powerful..


15:46 *** Buff is now known as TheGdiddler
15:51 TheGdiddler I'M GONNA GRAPE YOU"

#19 boobie817

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 12:44 PM

I did this same mod, exactly the same way and now my last 2 rows shoot out all 4 darts at the same time. Could this be caused by taping the holes? Did you experience this same problem? Thanks for the great write-up.
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#20 Exo

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 03:04 PM

I opened mine up by removing the screw-on-part, the AR nubs and the springs, then I stuck a very thin knife blade into the gap between the two barrel halves, and wedged it apart until I could stick a flathead screwdriver into the gap, the pried it apart from the front, at the ends of each barrel half. By slowly applying pressure to wedge the barrel halves apart, I was able to pop the base and the two barrel units apart without any pry marks or stress marks.
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#21 mysterio

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 02:21 PM

I did this same mod, exactly the same way and now my last 2 rows shoot out all 4 darts at the same time. Could this be caused by taping the holes? Did you experience this same problem? Thanks for the great write-up.


Did you place the valves in correctly/not break them? Never had that problem, but it can be caused by sticky valves.

I opened mine up by removing the screw-on-part, the AR nubs and the springs, then I stuck a very thin knife blade into the gap between the two barrel halves, and wedged it apart until I could stick a flathead screwdriver into the gap, the pried it apart from the front, at the ends of each barrel half. By slowly applying pressure to wedge the barrel halves apart, I was able to pop the base and the two barrel units apart without any pry marks or stress marks.


That sounds a hell of a lot better than what I did. Post some pics in this thread so I can edit them into the original post.
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If two powerful is a problem then just go with one powerful. I guess this style of hopper will work even beyond three powerful..


15:46 *** Buff is now known as TheGdiddler
15:51 TheGdiddler I'M GONNA GRAPE YOU"

#22 Exo

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 04:40 PM

That sounds a hell of a lot better than what I did. Post some pics in this thread so I can edit them into the original post.

I've got a vid, but no pics, sorry.
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#23 boobie817

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Posted 23 February 2013 - 03:19 PM

I made sure all the valves moved freely. I'll have to take it apart again and see if something moved during reassembly. another thing I don't like is that you have to use perfect darts. If they are used ones, meaning used even a few times, they don't sit against the restrictor properly. They keep getting pushed out. Very annoying.

Edited by boobie817, 24 February 2013 - 12:43 PM.

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