31 replies to this topic

[Carbon]

windtex1, on Oct 23 2010, 02:56 PM, said:

That is a really nice and appealing job but I have a simple question. On a regular CPT, when you attach the right angle, the clothespin is facing forwards. On this CPT, the clothespin is facing backwards and therefore would need a different trigger. So do you have any ideas for that?

Thank You and this is really a big step.

I put in an edit later on explaining that...it's bacwards just because the test plunger I used was too short to put it the other way. It doesn't matter which direction the clothespin faces.

[Fome]

Thank you for the very in-depth reply, Carbon. You've addressed some things I haven't thought about.

Having the catch on the plunger rod instead of the head does provide significant advantages at least in operation and maybe production (I'm still on the fence there) so I definitely applaud you for making a SNAP that does that. Props.

[Carbon]

I built the same trigger around a [k25]. Some notes on construction and operation:

The CPVC/Aluminum notch is too shallow for a more powerful spring. I ended up needing a rubber band for it to consistently catch and hold, but even then, it wasn't reliable enough (speaking of which, if you need a rubber band, a chunk of innertube is a very nice solution). Ill need to nest some different kind of tube for other versions, but the Al/CPVC should be good for a sidearm.

A wider spring is also a bit fussier about the 360 degree notch. I had to smooth down the forward edge a lot more in order for it not to snag.

The threaded spacer works great. With a bit of countersinking, the screw doesn't sit in the catch at all. I used a 3/4" spacer, $0.70 at Ace.

Easier drill method: cut off the catchface you intend to use, then set it inside the endcap flush to the front. Drill a hole for your catchface screw down through the endcap from the top. Then, enlarge the hole on the endcap for the spacer and countersink the hole in the catchface. It should all be aligned with no measuring. It doesn't matter where the spacer sits, because the pressure from the spring is transferred to the endcap. (I'll get pictures up of this method later). The other hole works as an access hole to screw in the catchface.

Development continues...

Edited by Carbon, 24 October 2010 - 11:38 AM.

[thedom21]

I am in the process of making one of these and have found that a sex bolt works beautifully in place of the spacer. I am talking about these, http://www.google.co...:0&tx=118&ty=74.

[Carbon]

thedom21, on Oct 24 2010, 10:03 AM, said:

I am in the process of making one of these and have found that a sex bolt works beautifully in place of the spacer. I am talking about these, http://www.google.co...:0&tx=118&ty=74.

Man, I never knew those were called that, too...coming from leatherwork, I've always called them Chicago screws. I've only ever seen them in short lengths with huge heads, so I've never looked for different sizes. Good find, I'll check them out.

[thedom21]

I went to my local Ace and just bought the supplies to build one and it cost around 21 dollars. That is with 36 industrial strength clothespins and silicone lube. It is 27 with a [k26].

Edited by thedom21, 24 October 2010 - 04:19 PM.

[Daniel Beaver]

I think all my future homemades require the use of sex bolts.