354 replies to this topic

[CaptainSlug]

If I wanted to replace the rubber band on the +bow with an extension spring, in about what length range would it have to be?

Between 2 and 2-1/2 inches. YOu don't need a very strong one, so .022" wire would be fine.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 30 September 2008 - 06:08 PM.

[Split]

Step Eleven:
"Attach the 12" length section of 1/2" diameter rod to the center frame piece using a 5/16"" length screw. Mark on it where the centerline of the catch plate is."

There are no 5/16" screws on the part list. What do I use?

AH. Sorry - noticed this mid post. The next part is
"Attach the 12" length rod to the rear frame piece again using a 3/8" length screw. Install a set screw into the newly tapped hole by hand."

So it's just a typo. Had me going crazy for a second.

I'm just going to keep editting in things I notice could be clearer into this post for anyone who gets stuck along the way.
Step 11: By set screw he means the lone one from the very last section on the parts list. I used one of the 3/4" screws though and it seems alright so far.
Step 12: He's using the 3/8" screws for this
Step 18: There are no 5/16" screws again.. I used 3/8". Where it says 3/8", you need to use 1/8" or else the screw won't let the plunger tube slide in for step 19.
Step 21: If you end up using a threaded rod you will of course need another lock nut. Keep that in mind when buying the materials.
Step 29: There are no 5/16" screws again.. I used 3/8".

Here's how to fit the 1/4" parts in a 16" x 4.5" space.

Edited by Splitlip, 03 October 2008 - 08:43 AM.

[Split]

I think this part deserves its own post. Even if it is double posting.
Here is, as far as I know, the first reproduced Rev. 2 +bow:


And here is where it broke, not 5 minutes after, while I was just priming the gun. I'll have to remachine the whole piece. I think I'll make this part longer this time around.

Edited by Splitlip, 23 February 2009 - 07:06 PM.

[CaptainSlug]

Fixed the screw length in the instructions. A 3/4" length screw can be used instead of a set screw assuming it does not impede the screw that has to hold that rod on the frame piece.

And here is where it broke, not 5 minutes after, while I was just priming the gun. I'll have to remachine the whole piece. I think I'll make this part longer this time around.

1. Are you sure you drilled those holes deep enough for them to have enough thread to hold the screws?
2. PLEASE tell me you did not make the entire gun out of "PLEXIGLASS". That is NOT polycarbonate and will not work at all. "Plexiglass" is usually referring to acrylic, which is very brittle, can be easily split/cracked with a hammer, and cannot hold a thread.

And, a word of Plexiglas advice: smooth those edges. Sanding, solvent, or heat. Every rough edge, especially at inside corners, is a potential stress point for cracks to begin.

Polycarbonate doesn't crack that easily. And you can't flame-polish the edges of it easily like you can with acrylic.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 03 October 2008 - 12:03 AM.

[Split]

No it's not out of the plexi, that was just to show that they could fit. I was thinking that a 16x12" or 16x14" sheet would be more economical if making 2 or 3. I think I drilled the holes too deep because they cracked right into each other then ripped off. Maybe too they were drilled at a bit of an angle.

Edited by Splitlip, 03 October 2008 - 09:07 AM.

[Blasphemy]

Gentlemen, I searched Mcmaster-Carr and if you want to use an extension spring in place of a rubber band you can buy part #94135K17 for $9.28 (you get 6 of them for that much). If you find anything cheaper feel free to point it out.

Edited by Blasphemy, 03 October 2008 - 02:39 PM.

[Blasphemy]

Here's a question ... I'm asking here because this thread is no doubt read by several people who have done business with Mcmaster-carr before ... Is it typical to place an order in the early evening, and have a courier deliver before breakfast the next morning?

I still don't know how much the shipping charges are going to be, and although that's terrific service, I hope we're not talking $20 shipping for my ($15) order. But now that wouldn't surprise me.

Before you ask - the stuff I ordered is from the +Bow parts list, but for now I only ordered the 5' rod, the springs, and the cylinder. I have other ideas for the shell of what I'll be building, but performance should be similar.

Usually Mcmaster-Carr delivers at least next day, if they have everything you want in stock, sometimes there is same day shipping, it all depends on how close their nearest supplying outlet is to you and whather what you want is in stock.

[Z4]

Here's a question ... I'm asking here because this thread is no doubt read by several people who have done business with Mcmaster-carr before ... Is it typical to place an order in the early evening, and have a courier deliver before breakfast the next morning?

I still don't know how much the shipping charges are going to be, and although that's terrific service, I hope we're not talking $20 shipping for my ($15) order. But now that wouldn't surprise me.

I had a similar experience, except the package came around 3 PM the next day. It was incredible service. My order was about $27, and shipping was $9.50. It came in one fairly large box and the long tube used for the nylon rod. If your order was just the springs and cylinder, and the rod, then I can't see shipping for you being too much more than mine.

I also live fairly close (>200 miles) away from the warehouse that my order was shipped from, so that might have helped.

[Z4]

My Rev.2 +bow:



I finished it on Thursday, so I guess I can claim the second Rev.2 reproduction. It's awesome, anything that was a problem on Rev.1 has been completely fixed. To anyone who is making one, I definitely suggest sanding the polycarbonate all over as CaptainSlug did, it brings a whole new level of comfort to the blaster. I really like the solid core grip too, I was a bit sketchy about it at first, but after actually holding it, it's way better than the foam core grip. Right now, I'm in the process of converting my old Rev.1 one up to date, but once that's completed, I can forsee this thing getting some sort of dye job.

I can't wait to tackle another one, great work CaptainSlug.

Just as an afterthought, do you see a Rev.3 ever happening or are you satisfied as-is?

Edited by .Z4., 04 October 2008 - 10:44 AM.

[CaptainSlug]

Just as an afterthought, do you see a Rev.3 ever happening or are you satisfied as-is?

No, I cannot predict the future.

[Langley]

I thought about creating a new plusbow modifications thread, but since this is relatively minor I didn't think it was worth it.



I built a horizontal foregrip attachment from a piece of 1.25" PVC. I sliced off about half an inch worth of circumference, which fit perfectly. Then I heated up the PVC with a heat gun and bent it slightly, and shaved a bit more off the top to compensate for the warping. I put some notches in the top where the holes are in the plusbow for zip-ties (to be added later when I get to the hardware store) and then I covered the whole thing in hockey tape. It feels way more comfortable in the front now.

[boisie]

Does anyone know if there is a kit of the parts that require a Scroll saw, or Band saw? I've search to no avail. Unless someone tells me, I'll keep looking.

[Langley]

What the hell are you talking about? A kit? You buy the parts, cut them however you can with the tools you have, and slap them together.

[A side of nerf]

I built a horizontal foregrip attachment from a piece of 1.25" PVC. I sliced off about half an inch worth of circumference, which fit perfectly. Then I heated up the PVC with a heat gun and bent it slightly, and shaved a bit more off the top to compensate for the warping. I put some notches in the top where the holes are in the plusbow for zip-ties (to be added later when I get to the hardware store) and then I covered the whole thing in hockey tape. It feels way more comfortable in the front now.

This is a grip I designed a few months back if you want to try it out. I attached it to a SNAP With a +bow shell and I am considering attaching it to my real +bow. The CuRvEy part on the grip has foam core attached to it for comfort. This template is really crappy and the +bow in the back round doesn't have the correct size ratio of templates but it is a design if you want to work off of it.

[boisie]

I mean that I have no access to a scroll saw or a band saw. I would like to know if anyone would sell me just the parts that require those tools, and how much it would be. Obviously I would be buying the rest of the parts and doing any other work required. I would also be building it. I'm sorry my lifeguard certification course was canceled because not enough people would pay, and so I can't buy my own scroll saw or band saw.

Edited by boisie, 11 October 2008 - 03:32 PM.

[Langley]

I mean that I have no access to a scroll saw or a band saw. I would like to know if anyone would sell me just the parts that require those tools, and how much it would be. Obviously I would be buying the rest of the parts and doing any other work required. I would also be building it. I'm sorry my lifeguard certification course was canceled because not enough people would pay, and so I can't buy my own scroll saw or band saw.

I think that's a pretty significant part of the construction. I think all that really needs to be done after that portion of the work is the work that needs to be done with a tap & dye set, which is also a set of tools not everyone has. In any case, I don't think you'll have much luck getting a someone to give you a 'some assembly required' plusbow. Also, I'm drunk.

Edited by Langley, 11 October 2008 - 09:39 PM.

[boisie]

It's not "Some assembly Required", it's a "These are the pieces that you can't cut with a hacksaw, dremel, or other type of saw that you currently own." thing. I'd be buying and drilling everything else. I'm only asking for some help in my quest for a great primary.

Also, I get that you were drunk for that comment. That's alright. CS has a group for his addiction to online warehouses, and they've helped him refine it into a tasteful part of life. You may need something like that, except with the self-control part exaggerated.

JSB: I'd be glad to pay for the polycarbonate I use, and compensate for time. Also, this is not a set in stone thing yet. I'm just looking at prices.

Edited by boisie, 12 October 2008 - 08:10 AM.

[Split]

It's not "Some assembly Required", it's a "These are the pieces that you can't cut with a hacksaw, dremel, or other type of saw that you currently don't own." thing. I'd be buying and drilling everything else. I'm only asking for some help in my quest for a great primary.

Also, I get that you were drunk for that comment. That's alright. CS has a group for his addiction to online warehouses, and they've helped him refine it into a tasteful part of life. You may need something like that, except with the self-control part exaggerated.

JSB: I'd be glad to pay for the polycarbonate I use, and compensate for time. Also, this is not a set in stone thing yet. I'm just looking at prices.

Trying not to sound as blunt as my friend Langley here, but if you had looked at the writeup, you'd see that every part requires all of those tools, and all of the drilling must be done before the cutting. The only step that doesn't require those tools is putting the screws through the holes.

I've built 2, almost finished my third. It's really hard to drill the holes after. Pieces like the "cross" are small and are hard to keep steady while drilling a big hole accurately.

Edited by Splitlip, 12 October 2008 - 08:47 AM.

[boisie]

I'd been looking at the write-up, and I figured that there may be a way to do that in reverse order. If people who have built a +bow before say it can't be done, then I'll just see if I can get my local hardware shop to do the cutting after I drill the holes. They're very nerfer friendly.

[Blasphemy]

I'd been looking at the write-up, and I figured that there may be a way to do that in reverse order. If people who have built a +bow before say it can't be done, then I'll just see if I can get my local hardware shop to do the cutting after I drill the holes. They're very nerfer friendly.

Well, I have been machining and drilling and re-machining my +bow parts and I have to say I'm going to sit on the fence here. Some of the larger frame pieces you can drill after cutting without too much of a fuss, but you'd still have an easier time drilling before cutting even with those. I agree with Splitlip when it comes to the smaller pieces like the plunger cross and plunger head pieces; they are a pain in the ass to drill after cutting because it is difficult to hold them straight.

Besides, taking drilling out of the process does not take too much time out, and therefore won't cut your costs much.

[Split]

Enough 1/4" pieces for two and a half +bows on one 12x12" sheet.

Edit: God damn Talio cuts templates out nice!

Edited by Splitlip, 23 February 2009 - 07:00 PM.

[Nonsense Man]

Does anyone have a picture of the 1/8th templated on the 12x12 sheet?

[CaptainSlug]

Does anyone have a picture of the 1/8th templated on the 12x12 sheet?

[Split]

My first four +bows. Notice my logo on the left side of the handle with a number denoting which is which.
1: Went to MSDFS


No etching or +, removable SF bracket

2: Went to Chilipepperfender


RHCP Etching

3: Went to Silencer



"Devil's Cross" Etching on both sides, and a close up on the handle etching.

4: Plain, went to Zach attack


Thanks again slug for all of the work you've put into these.

Edited by Splitlip, 23 February 2009 - 07:12 PM.

[hereticorp]

My first PlusBow, with more in the works.



Keep an eye out for the sales thread, I'll be making these regularly for as long as people want them.