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#176 analogkid

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 05:13 PM

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Finished my first +bow. I need to ask my Design Technology teacher about access to one of the CNC mills my school has. If I can get it, expect a few more that will be up for sale at some point.
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#177 Draconis

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Posted 07 November 2008 - 08:37 PM

I officially dislike cutting nylon rod on a scroll saw. I think the speed was up too high, because it kept melting back together and binding. Otherwise, construction on my first +Bow is going well! I have never worked with Polycarbonate before, but it really does machine beautifully. I'll edit in a picture of the completed assembly soon. Thanks for the design CaptainSlug!
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#178 CaptainSlug

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Posted 07 November 2008 - 08:55 PM

Draconis, on Nov 7 2008, 09:37 PM, said:

I officially dislike cutting nylon rod on a scroll saw. I think the speed was up too high, because it kept melting back together and binding.

You have the speed set too high and probably don't have the air pump setup. You will probably get better results with a mitre box.
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#179 Icespartan 1114

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Posted 08 November 2008 - 07:17 PM

My new Pride and Joy. This was made by Slug.
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Came with this a Slide breech with I put PETG in.
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#180 hereticorp

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Posted 10 November 2008 - 11:43 AM

Some fun pictures of the process:

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2 +Bow and 1.5 L+L laid out on one 12x12 1/4" and 2 12x12 1/8" sheets

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The parts all jumbled after being cut out

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Everything all nice and ready for assembly

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And the results. No, I didn't make 4 out of the templates above, I made 2, I had one cut already and I had one completed already.
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#181 perezinthenet

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 11:33 AM

I need help with my plusbow, with my too tight cpvc I'm only getting about 90 feet and it has a PVC plunger tube which I'm replacing soon, will using brass and replacing the plunger tube get it up into the 130-140 range?
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#182 Draconis

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 03:14 PM

perezinthenet, on Dec 7 2008, 08:33 AM, said:

I need help with my plusbow, with my too tight cpvc I'm only getting about 90 feet and it has a PVC plunger tube which I'm replacing soon, will using brass and replacing the plunger tube get it up into the 130-140 range?



It's actually polypropylene, and dart fit/weight is crucial to those kind of ranges. The same lightweight stefans you use in a nightfinder are not heavy enough to fly that far.

Edited by Draconis, 07 December 2008 - 03:14 PM.

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#183 CaptainSlug

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 04:10 PM

perezinthenet, on Dec 7 2008, 12:33 PM, said:

I need help with my plusbow, with my too tight cpvc I'm only getting about 90 feet and it has a PVC plunger tube which I'm replacing soon, will using brass and replacing the plunger tube get it up into the 130-140 range?

Your problem is your barrel and your darts. Replacing something unrelated won't help.
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The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?

#184 perezinthenet

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 07:44 PM

CaptainSlug, on Dec 7 2008, 01:10 PM, said:

perezinthenet, on Dec 7 2008, 12:33 PM, said:

I need help with my plusbow, with my too tight cpvc I'm only getting about 90 feet and it has a PVC plunger tube which I'm replacing soon, will using brass and replacing the plunger tube get it up into the 130-140 range?

Your problem is your barrel and your darts. Replacing something unrelated won't help.

So the dart fit in the barrel will have the most effect on range?
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#185 Galaxy613

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 07:49 PM

perezinthenet, on Dec 7 2008, 07:44 PM, said:

So the dart fit in the barrel will have the most effect on range?


It can, yes. With a bad dart/barrel fit you can easily get 80ft or even 70ft ranges from a +Bow that can get 100+ft with a good dart/barrel fit.
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#186 CaptainSlug

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 07:49 PM

perezinthenet, on Dec 7 2008, 08:44 PM, said:

CaptainSlug, on Dec 7 2008, 01:10 PM, said:

perezinthenet, on Dec 7 2008, 12:33 PM, said:

I need help with my plusbow, with my too tight cpvc I'm only getting about 90 feet and it has a PVC plunger tube which I'm replacing soon, will using brass and replacing the plunger tube get it up into the 130-140 range?

Your problem is your barrel and your darts. Replacing something unrelated won't help.

So the dart fit in the barrel will have the most effect on range?

Yeah. Nobody ever claimed they were getting 130-140 feet with a poorly matched dart and barrel combination.
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The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?

#187 perezinthenet

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 07:52 PM

Should I expect that kind of range once I find a good dart/ barrel fit?
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#188 CaptainSlug

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 08:17 PM

perezinthenet, on Dec 7 2008, 08:52 PM, said:

Should I expect that kind of range once I find a good dart/ barrel fit?

Don't EXPECT anything specific beyond just an improvement.
Range figures are a ballpark of the results a person is getting with THEIR blaster, barrel, and darts. They're not a guarantee since you, in all likelihood, won't be using exactly the same everything as that person.

Edited by CaptainSlug, 07 December 2008 - 08:17 PM.

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The little critters of nature, they don't know that they're ugly. That's very funny, a fly marrying a bumble bee. I told you I'd shoot, but you didn't believe me. Why didn't you believe me?

#189 dariganat

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Posted 30 December 2008 - 12:18 AM

Skitzo, on Jan 17 2008, 05:09 PM, said:

I just received all of the parts in the mail.
All I need is a new blade for my band saw and I'll be set.
While looking through the plans I couldn't find how long the plunger rod is supposed to be.
How much space would be between the two end lables of the plunger rod?
What brand of silicon lubricant do you recommend?
Also I don't have labeling paper, could I just use a glue stick or something to glue the paper templates to the protective covering of the plastic?
EDIT: Would using a hand held jigsaw to cut the plastic work?
Thanks in advance.

Skitzo-

100th post!

hey i'm thinking about doing this so how much does making this gun cost and how far does it really fire because i can't take uin13's ranges seriously

#190 BustaNinja

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Posted 30 December 2008 - 12:40 AM

dariganat, on Dec 29 2008, 09:18 PM, said:

Skitzo, on Jan 17 2008, 05:09 PM, said:

I just received all of the parts in the mail.
All I need is a new blade for my band saw and I'll be set.
While looking through the plans I couldn't find how long the plunger rod is supposed to be.
How much space would be between the two end lables of the plunger rod?
What brand of silicon lubricant do you recommend?
Also I don't have labeling paper, could I just use a glue stick or something to glue the paper templates to the protective covering of the plastic?
EDIT: Would using a hand held jigsaw to cut the plastic work?
Thanks in advance.

Skitzo-

100th post!

hey i'm thinking about doing this so how much does making this gun cost and how far does it really fire because i can't take uin13's ranges seriously

depends on your barrel and dart fit, but it does get well over 100 ft. Trust me, his ranges are accurate.
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#191 hereticorp

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Posted 30 December 2008 - 08:56 AM

dariganat, on Dec 30 2008, 12:18 AM, said:

hey i'm thinking about doing this so how much does making this gun cost and how far does it really fire because i can't take uin13's ranges seriously


If you actually READ the instructions you will see how much it costs and what tools are required.

Of course if this becomes too much for you, you can always buy one of mine.

The ranges are easily 100+', and at that point, who cares? It's long enough. It's never going to be accurate past about 120-130 in any case, and if you have visions of being a hilltop camper, forget it. Nerf is not about campers.
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#192 NerfDude1138

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Posted 24 January 2009 - 08:47 PM

I have completed my first +bow Rev2. Nothing fancy, just followed Slug's instructions. I love it. Many kudos to Slug for his design.

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#193 slowguitarman

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Posted 24 January 2009 - 10:29 PM

NerfDude1138, on Jan 24 2009, 08:47 PM, said:

I have completed my first +bow Rev2. Nothing fancy, just followed Slug's instructions. I love it. Many kudos to Slug for his design.
INSERT PICS HERE


Many kudos. That is one of the cleanest +bows I've seen other than Slug's. Really nice work.

Edited by slowguitarman, 24 January 2009 - 10:30 PM.

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#194 Hoceky

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Posted 22 February 2009 - 09:34 PM

CaptainSlug, on Jan 8 2008, 11:13 AM, said:

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Does the thickness tolerance matter if the thickness is 1/4 and 1/8? In the above picture the polycarbonate is not the same part# as the one on the part list. Correct? I would prefer if CS replied to this. Thanks.

Edit: Replying to your post Splitlip, does it matter what kind of polycarbonate you order from Mcmaster just as long it's 1/4 and 1/8 in thickness?

Edited by Hoceky, 23 February 2009 - 12:33 AM.

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meh.

#195 Split

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Posted 23 February 2009 - 12:14 AM

Then PM him.. Otherwise, I'm going to tell you the answer if I know it. The polycarbonate on the +bow you quoted is the same as in the parts list, aside from the smoke tinted section in the stock. It's just lightly sanded, as recommended in the writeup.

Also,
4: Plain, went to Zach attack
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Continued from my post on page 12.

Edited by Splitlip, 23 February 2009 - 07:12 PM.

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#196 Ryan201821

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Posted 09 March 2009 - 04:19 PM

Just finished this...

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#197 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 09 March 2009 - 04:46 PM

Yum. Looking forward to seeing that in person.
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#198 spartan062

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 10:18 PM

Would 3/8" plexiglass work? or would that be too thick?
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#199 analogkid

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 11:36 PM

No, Plexiglass usually refers to acrylic if I remember correctly. Acrylic is a whole different type of plastic that is much less impact resistant than polycarbonate. Just use what's on the parts list.
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#200 Draconis

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 11:44 PM

That is correct, Analog. Lexan is a brand of Polycarbonate that is widely available. To address the real question, though, 3/8" is WAY too thick for anything but plunger rods. The design is around specifically dimensioned components that cannot be altered without altering everything else.
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