354 replies to this topic

[CaptainSlug]

Lt. Stefan, on May 31 2009, 01:28 PM, said:

There's not really a dial to do so. There is a lever, you pull it up, and it releases. Then when you put the blade on, you push the lever down, and it automatically tightens it. I don't really know how to tighten it more so.

Read the manual. Mine has a twist knob on the top of the back that controls blade tension.

[Lt Stefan]

Looking at yours, mine looks exactly like yours, except it's Skil.

[Darth Freyr]

Lt. Stefan: I believe I have the same model as you and the manual specifically states to turn the lever one full rotation clockwise, especially if the blade is loose.

[Lt Stefan]

Thank you. One more question for you machinists-- what method do you use for securing pieces to a drill press, especially rods where the cut needs to be lengthwise (I.E. Plunger rod)?

Edited by Lt. Stefan, 01 June 2009 - 02:26 PM.

[Ryan201821]

Small vise works well. My drillpress came with one.

[Lt Stefan]

What model do you have? It doesn't seem the one I want has one.

EDIT: I did some searching at found these: drill press vices. I assume that's what I would need, except they seem rather expensive.

Edited by Lt. Stefan, 01 June 2009 - 02:58 PM.

[Lt Stefan]

So are you saying the vices I linked to are refurbished? I'm confused.....

[CaptainSlug]

You don't really need a V-block for drilling plastic. A regular 6-inch steel vice will do fine and you can buy them from any hardware store.

[Talio]

This is entirely Splits doing. He made me this:





I used it at DCNO this weekend and it rocks. The coolest thing is that the safety works.

Talio.

[Lt Stefan]

CaptainSlug, on Jun 1 2009, 12:19 PM, said:

You don't really need a V-block for drilling plastic. A regular 6-inch steel vice will do fine and you can buy them from any hardware store.

You mean something like this?

It doesn't make sense how that is more expensive than that fancier-looking drill press vice.

[CaptainSlug]

Lt. Stefan, on Jun 2 2009, 03:47 PM, said:

You mean something like this?

It doesn't make sense how that is more expensive than that fancier-looking drill press vice.

No, that's a bench vice. A simple drill vice will be enough.

[Mr BadWrench]

http://www.harborfre...temnumber=94276



of course if you have some extra cash.

[Lt Stefan]

CS, that gets bolted to the bench? Nice. I suspect that that is slightly cheaper.

[Split]

A +bow, made by Ryna McNumbers, revised by me for Magic:




I also came up with a small development that I think could be pretty influential - a new plunger head.

When you blow down the coupler of a +bow (+pistol in these pics) that uses a (dry) washer, you can see the weak spots in the seal. Needless to say, this is still an effective plunger head, but not ideal.



Here is the new plunger head:

It is part number 9562K46, with two 1.25" diameter polycarbonate circles, and 5/32" holes drilled in the centers. It is tightened heavily onto the rod, as there are small dimples in the front that need to be closed off by the front piece of polycarb.
To demonstrate the seal, the same test:


It is also longer in length, which aids with a problem that plagues many +bows - the spring gets slightly shorter after extended use. Since this is over 1/4" longer, it both pre-compresses the spring more, and compensates after the spring weakens.
Another (very relative) benefit is the cost. This head costs $4.38, where as the stock one costs $5.02. After the first though, the rubber washer head is less expensive at $1.20 each, where the new head is still $4.38 each.

Let me know what you think.

Edited by Split, 06 June 2010 - 09:17 AM.

[Shrub]

I believe it would be easier to use a hole saw to make the polycarb cuts. If a rigid is only $10 you can get a cheap one for probably a few bucks.

Also wouldn't the +Bow be structuraly stronger if you made the front side panels a little longer the last one's I had on the one Ryan201821 broke right where the bolt goes through because of too much pressure on the coupler when the plunger head hit.

[A side of nerf]

I was looking back at Ryan's Air Tech 2000 integration bracket thread and realized the link to dowload the plans was broken. However, I had them saved on my computer so here is a download link: http://www.sendspace.com/file/y6ilv3

Those templates however, are only the 1/4inch polycarbonate pieces. With smarts though, one can easily produce the simple 1/8inch thickness rectangle pieces by observing the original thread.

Edited by A side of nerf, 04 June 2009 - 05:10 PM.

[Lt Stefan]

Shrub, on Jun 4 2009, 11:49 AM, said:

I believe it would be easier to use a hole saw to make the polycarb cuts. If a rigid is only $10 you can get a cheap one for probably a few bucks.

I would think that using that would not make a very clean cut, and might tear up the edges.

[Shrub]

Actually,

Quote

For heavy duty cutting in stainless steel, aluminum, brass, wood and plastic.

But yeah at first glance I thought it would make it chip.

[Oldschool]

I'm still new to this forum so I'm sure I will make some mistakes, I originally posted this in a separate thread. I assumed that this thread was for the specified "+bow" in the first post (I didn't want to be accused of thread hijacking).

I found out qwickly when I had a mod swearing at me like he knows me and locking my thread. this leads me to believe that yall have had a lot of people making the same mistake as I did, and has made this a very sensitive issue with this kid- Sorry about that man.


I didn't really join this forum to post much, just impart some ideas from the past and a few new ideas. I'M very big into paintball and airsoft, and im currently working on a paintball pistal prototype that I hope will soon hit the market. I was recently working on my Automag when I had an idea, what if I could put my Automag Intela frame on a + Bow. So I did some measurements and built the + Bow with the 45 grip frame in CAD 3D. The benefit of using the 45 style grip frame would be the ability to use 45 style hand grips. I also changed up the trigger and the inner handle supports- they will act more like a guide for the trigger action.
After I get some more of the kinks worked out I could PDF the "45 frame Beta test drawing". and E-mail them to some folks who would like to test it out. Just PM me I'm a designer by trade so I'm in my office in front of my PC all day.


I still need to work on the astectics.

[Ryan201821]

I know a lot of you guys are fans of the RSCB clip. One problem with the RSCB I had was the tendency of it to wiggle around while reloading, especially on the +bow. Here is a bracket piece that keeps it sturdy. I'll take pictures of the setup on the gun tomorrow and edit them in here. It should explain how it all goes together.

RSCB Bracket Template

It should be cut on 1/4" thick plastic or whatever material people use to make their +bows. The holes that are meant to be drilled in the side of the bracket are 5/32" holes. It is designed to accept SCH 40 1/2" PVC which has an outer diameter of roughly .84"

Edited by Ryan201821, 10 June 2009 - 02:05 PM.

[spartan062]

Sorry if this seems like a noob question but:
How easy would it be to use a scroll saw to cut Lexan?

[Darth Tom]

Just to be sure, seeing as you're posting in this thread, are you planning on using Lexan for the +bow? Don't. It's just a brand of plexiglass more or less, and isn't nearly as strong as polycarbonate.

[UpperHand]

So I just finished my +bow, but the damn label paper is leaving this sticky residue all over the polycarbonate (laugh it up you pervs). Any idea about what I could that? Im afraid to use any thing because it might erode the plastic. What could I use?

[ggk]

Try goo gone. It does not usually do anything to plastic and it works on adhesive residue.

[CaptainSlug]

UpperHand, on Jun 14 2009, 12:02 PM, said:

So I just finished my +bow, but the damn label paper is leaving this sticky residue all over the polycarbonate (laugh it up you pervs). Any idea about what I could that? Im afraid to use any thing because it might erode the plastic. What could I use?

You're supposed to apply the label paper to the protective film that the sheets should come covered with.