hamoidar's Content
There have been 335 items by hamoidar (Search limited from 25-December 96)
#316875 Write-up: RAW The Force Mod aka "Duo Force" (Picture Intensive
Posted by
on 11 June 2012 - 11:05 AM
in
Modifications
#308367 Why isnt there a longshot thread?
Posted by
on 17 December 2011 - 05:21 PM
in
General Nerf
Perhaps it is because the longshot is not quite the legend that the crossbow is, but if you really want a longshot thread, why not start one!I thought i saw something about this before. I cant find a "post your longshot thread" I know theres one for crossbows but why wouldent there be one for longshots? I fail to see the point.
#312973 White lithium grease?
Posted by
on 16 March 2012 - 08:05 PM
in
Modifications
#314115 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by
on 07 April 2012 - 08:26 PM
in
Modifications
#307671 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by
on 22 November 2011 - 08:30 PM
in
Modifications
#314127 Vulcan problem
Posted by
on 08 April 2012 - 09:43 AM
in
Modifications
#322616 Vote for NH's Next Avatar Pack
Posted by
on 15 October 2012 - 09:35 AM
in
Off Topic
#306573 Vortex Praxis high-capasity Magazine Mod
Posted by
on 27 October 2011 - 09:50 AM
in
Modifications
A freind of mine hase taken some classes on metals and explained the same prosess paloose has stated. The spring was heated with a torch, then quickly dropped into a tub of cold water. Then it was baked for an hour at 450 degrees. So far, I haven't had the spring wear out at all, and have used it heavily since modding it.I am unconvinced that 400 degrees is enough to properly anneal the spring. My understanding is that you need to get it to just under the austenizing temperature, and hold it there for a few hours in order to release the cold working stresses that got introduced when the spring got stretched. The temperature required varies a lot between grades of steel, but the ranges I've seen are between 500 - 1500 degrees. A 500-700 degree oven might help, but the 400 degrees suggested is almost certainly a waste of electricity. This isn't such a big deal for a magazine spring such as we see in this mod, but I would throw a much more significant shit fit if someone tried to do this with a plunger spring.
hamoidar: let us know whether that spring shrinks back or weakens over time. If it is still serviceable after a year, then all this theoretical rambling of mine is moot.
taer: the cavity in the disk is where the throwing arm pokes up into to fling the discs. I think.
#306290 Vortex Praxis high-capasity Magazine Mod
Posted by
on 21 October 2011 - 05:45 PM
in
Modifications
High-Capacity Mod for the Nerf Praxis Magazine
This mod guid will show you how to transform your 10 disc magazine into a 27 disc high-capacity mag. Even though it holds 27 discs, the magazine is barely longer than a Stampede clip.
First, unscrew your magazine and remove the bottom cap and the lower spring seat. Using a Dremal sanding drum, dremal down all the guiding bars and the protruding edge up 1/4″ into the magazine. Do this to both sides. Next, Dremal the three guide bars on the disc pusher completely off, and round off the bottom edge with sand paper. Sorry there’s not very many pictures, I forgot to take them during the modding process, but I will do my best to explain in detail. Now, you will need an 8″ section of a fluorescent tube protector, and an end cap for it.(these tubes can be bought at any home improvement store, they also come with end-caps)
Using a Dremal sanding drum, sand a 25 degree angle slant all along the inside edge. This will allow the discs to be loaded smoothly. Set this aside for now.
Unravel the wire binding from a cheap notebook, and smooth it out. Take a 36″ piece of 1/2″ pvc and Dremal a slit at one end. Bend the end of the wire into a small L-shape, and slid the wire into the slit. Wrap the wire around the pipe, with about 1/4″ of space between the coils. My spring is pretty messy, but hey, it works.
Drill a small hole where the coil ends, and push the end of the wire into it. This will keep the spring from unraveling.
You can now remove the spring from the pipe. Pre-heat an oven to five hundred degrees, and bake the spring for an hour. (get your parents permission)
Finally, take the fluorescent tube sleeve that you fabricated earlier, and apply hot glue around the top of the pipe. Do this only to the top portion.(about 1/2″ down from the side you dremaled to a slant) Push this end into the bottom of the magazine, making sure to keep it straight while the glue cools. Next layer a good amount of hot glue over the join.
Take your new spring and duct-tape it to the original one, bottom to top.
Drop the disc pusher into the bottom of the pipe, making sure to put it in the right way.(the side with the cut out should face up when you look down the top of the magazine)
Next drop the spring into the pipe and put on the pipe cap.
If all went well the magazine should be able to hold around 27 discs.
#306319 Vortex Praxis high-capasity Magazine Mod
Posted by
on 22 October 2011 - 05:36 PM
in
Modifications
Actually, the 25 degree angle is so that the disc pusher transitions smoothly from the original magazine to the extention pipe.It's so the black piece at the bottom can fit in easier. Though, I'm sure you could just pressure fit it in but that'd cause stress on the clear part and possibly break it. But, I may be wrong. This is just my assumption.
#306457 Vortex Praxis high-capasity Magazine Mod
Posted by
on 24 October 2011 - 12:46 PM
in
Modifications
Although the discs fit in the 1 1/2 in pvc, the pvc will not fit into the magazine bottom. You could support the pvc from the sides, but this would be pretty messy. The pvc is also much heavier than the protector sleeve.Nice job.
Would 1 1/2" PVC work for the fluorescent tube protector? The discs fit perfectly in it.
#329906 vortex disc mod
Posted by
on 16 May 2013 - 09:03 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
I have found that with some modding of the disc blaster, higher ranges, accuracy, and speed can be achieved.
Here are a few helpful threads:
http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=21586' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>mod guide
http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=21743' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>magazine mod
#307472 Various Clip Ideas
Posted by
on 17 November 2011 - 03:32 PM
in
Modifications
#312899 VANS Are Not Slugs
Posted by
on 15 March 2012 - 05:13 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Prehaps by pushing the tip of the silicone tupe all the way down to the bottom of the hole, then lifting it out as you filled it, you could eliminate most of the air bubbles.Tried VANS out, with limited success. They do better than single-bb domes out of a UMB, and hurt a lot less. Used a part of a hornet shell [the connectors to the titan] as a mold, and had trouble with molds not curing or air bubbles forming with low viscosity silicone RTV. Still need to create a better mold/felt tips for the RTV. It sticks to drilled out foam amazingly.
#314139 VANS Are Not Slugs
Posted by
on 08 April 2012 - 03:14 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
#308504 Ung Breech
Posted by
on 20 December 2011 - 08:15 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
#313293 Tripleshotpistol
Posted by
on 21 March 2012 - 07:06 PM
in
Modifications
#316262 Trigger linking question
Posted by
on 28 May 2012 - 08:05 PM
in
Modifications
I don't think that would work, as the top of his trigger is level with the bottom of the clothspin; leaving no room for the polycarb. The method Carbon recommended is probably his best bet.well you can put a strip of polycarbonate or wood on the top of the trigger just enough so the polycarb, when the trigger is pulled forces the clothespin apart causing the gun to fire.....hope it helps
#334165 Trading Forum Glitch?
Posted by
on 20 September 2013 - 01:19 PM
in
Site Feedback
#325159 Titan homemade
Posted by
on 08 January 2013 - 08:26 PM
in
Homemades
#324974 through bolt cocking handle removal
Posted by
on 31 December 2012 - 09:11 PM
in
General Nerf
#316272 The SNAP-10 Slamfire
Posted by
on 28 May 2012 - 10:13 PM
in
Homemades
#329905 The Roughcut 2 to 1
Posted by
on 16 May 2013 - 08:56 PM
in
Modifications
1. The plungers do not fire at the same time, therefor, the first plunger that fires will have more effect on the dart than the second. This will decrease range but only slightly.
2. I wish the barrel was centered with the gun, as I like to sight along the tactical rail. Of course, this is a matter of personal preferance.
3. Not a problem: I think that using two smaller plungers to fire a dart at the same range as one large plunger is a great idea! why? Because, two small plungers might be able to fit into a shell/cavity that a large one would not.
Overall a very good job!
#307348 The recon blast bazooka
Posted by
on 14 November 2011 - 05:59 PM
in
Modifications
#313026 The Nitestrike
Posted by
on 17 March 2012 - 03:44 PM
in
Modifications
Wow, I have never read a more doom-saying post before. Man, give the guy a break, he just posted a new, innovative mod, and you go and say it will just about explode on the first shot.As far as the spring goes, I am guessing that with more power the thing will fall apart. If the catch starts to flex at all or if it is slightly angled the force of the spring will cause misfires. The brass used will also probably bend out and that seal piece used might come off or shatter with impact on the plunger tube.
#313025 The Nitestrike
Posted by
on 17 March 2012 - 03:40 PM
in
Modifications
#313078 The Nitestrike
Posted by
on 18 March 2012 - 01:15 PM
in
Modifications
The bolt sled of the longstrike, in my experience, is quite strong. The part that gave me the most trouble on mine was the priming handle. When I modded it, the handle kept falling off, so I ended up epoxying it on.Agreed, an awesome mod. But if I do it I will use a stronger spring and reinforce the bolts led.
#317850 The Long-erStrike: A Titan/Longstrike intergration
Posted by
on 02 July 2012 - 11:01 AM
in
Modifications
#308359 The Darthramballs M1 prototype
Posted by
on 17 December 2011 - 12:39 PM
in
Modifications
#318690 The BANR, a FAR revamp
Posted by
on 17 July 2012 - 07:53 PM
in
Homemades
#315406 The AS-4: BBUMB/Rapidfire integration
Posted by
on 08 May 2012 - 03:38 PM
in
Modifications
#315502 The AS-4: BBUMB/Rapidfire integration
Posted by
on 10 May 2012 - 09:52 AM
in
Modifications
Ohh, I think I get it, cool. So the front of the bladder would originally force the top of the trigger down slightly, causing it to vent?
The air release valve is actually on the cap of the bladder itself. If you look, you will see a button-like thing sticking out of the bladder cap. When the bladder expandes to it's max, the button presses against the shell wall, releasing a bit of air.
#327565 The "Do-Not"s of Off-Topic
Posted by
on 03 March 2013 - 07:16 PM
in
Off Topic
Contact a forum admin, (langley, Doom) and ask them to delete your account. Or, post "ban me" on langley's profile!How can I delete my account.
I'm going to change your name to Son Of Mr Hands, real talk.
Hamoidar: What?
#316872 Switchshot EX-3 Modification
Posted by
on 11 June 2012 - 10:40 AM
in
Modifications
) I am guessing by the drops on the AR parts that you used hot water to get it apart?
#316202 Supplemental Swarmfire Mods
Posted by
on 27 May 2012 - 02:01 PM
in
Modifications
#312971 [Help] Stampede mod gone wrong?
Posted by
on 16 March 2012 - 08:00 PM
in
Modifications
Your problem is most likely the voltage, as the stock batteries are not capable of compressing a stronger-than-stock spring. As for brassing the stampede; here is a step-by-step guide for a brass mod.http://nerfhaven.com...1&#entry310074' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>Stampede brass mod If you only want to brass the dart tube, simply leave the barrel stock, and only complete the bolt/dart-tube brass conversion. Good luck!I removed the ARs, increased the seal, and added a crossfire spring. I'm going to increase the voltage as soon as I go to RadioShack. I also am going to minimize it in the front. Also on a similar topic do you think it would be possible to do a half brass mod to a stampede?
#312954 [Help] Stampede mod gone wrong?
Posted by
on 16 March 2012 - 05:39 PM
in
Modifications
Since it seems this thread is alive again, here goes. Have you done any mods to it? If so, what are they? If you can give me a little more information, I can most definitly help, having modded five stampedes.I am also having a similar problem but no matter if it's dry firing or if there is a dart it stops moving just short fully moving forward. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#313006 [Help] Stampede mod gone wrong?
Posted by
on 17 March 2012 - 09:03 AM
in
Modifications
Don't quote me on this... wait...uh...nevermind. Anyway, I do belive the dart would not have any pressure behind it. One, the dart tube does not hold the dart tight enough to make a seal until the very end of it. Second, I think this gun also has a pin hole on the side of the dart tube, just like almost every newer nerf gun, which would release pressure as well.Low voltage batteries may exacerbate this as they dont provide enough torque to allow the motor to move the plunger against the increased resistance caused by compressing the air behind the dart.
#312953 [Help] Stampede mod gone wrong?
Posted by
on 16 March 2012 - 05:35 PM
in
Modifications
#313016 [Help] Stampede mod gone wrong?
Posted by
on 17 March 2012 - 12:43 PM
in
Modifications
Even if pressure was building up, it would be negligble compared to the stronger spring. His problem is the voltage, with the combination of the tighter seal, stronger spring, and prehaps pressure behind the dart. The stock voltage is just too weak to operate the modded gun.He said he had modded it do by that I'm guessing he plugged the air release hole. And the stampede has a rather firm grip on the dart in the bolt compared to most blasters, it was comparable to 17/32 brass in my stampede so the buildup of pressure is quite possible.
