Hello nerfhaven!
I have just found an awesome surprise! Mcmaster-carr is now selling schedule 40 pvc wyes! I just ordered some for my PAC and might review them when I receive them. Mcmaster has sold wyes in the past but they cost like 6 bucks and they weren't schedule 40. It does say they ship within 2 weeks, but I'll see. I believe this new product came around when they updated their website. LInk: http://www.mcmaster....ttings/=lesvvy. Considering that I think mcmaster and flexpvc.com (where most people get schedule 40 wyes) have the same plastic pipe suppliers, mcmasters wyes wil probably be the same as basically everyone else's.

Good find! Though, these cost thirty-three cents more than FlexPVC charges; so this is only a better deal if you are already placing a McMaster order, because you'll save on shipping.
Also, FlexPVC is not the best retailer of wyes. PexSupply carries Spears brand wyes for eighty-four cents, which is thirty-four cents lower than FlexPVC and sixty seven cents below McMaster.

I know that flex pvc wyes are cheaper but isn't their shipping horrendously high?

I have known about this for a while.

How did you know about it , or are you getting mixed up with the schedule 80 ones?

You know that you can use this: http://www.mcmaster....ow-rods/=lk4jnj in the fire strike because the stock plunger and shell can fit it, and you wont have to use some other plunger head. I have already done this with the previously mentioned plunger tube and basically just smaller, similar to the size of the one stock, and got 90', so ya.

I agree with hero, but you can also stick the darts into something smaller than 17/32 for about five minutes, and you will have a shrunken dart. Just for future reference I would not use 17/32 because it is harder to taper, instead I would recommend something around that size, like: http://www.mcmaster....-tubing/=lkdgie or http://www.mcmaster....tubing/=lkdgr7. These are able to be reamed but still maintain a similar ID to 17/32.


EDIT: Sorry I ment to say 25 minutes.

First of all I dont know why everyone keeps on complaining about the length, it will probably be able to be minimized because the front part is probably a faux barrel. I get Hero's comment on how with homemades we can get that kind of range with nearly half the body+barrel length, but do we add stupid faux barrels?

Secondly, good job hasbro! This really seems like the only competitive springer since the longshot. Hopefully we (modders) will be able to convert it to fire micros. We will probably be able to wrap some half in. pvc pipe in e-tape into the breech, and then stick the desired barrel into the pvc. Considering at how reinforced the new elite internals were (I think different plastic for some), reinforcements won't be entirely needed. I think that Titan ranges will be easily within our reach with this blaster, which will be a problem for most wars that ban Titans. I think that there will be some type of restriction on internal mods done, for example: I have heard that in Minnesota Tech targets(to be used as pistols) either have to have stock draw or the stock spring. I think a ban like that will most likely have to take place at well restricted wars.

Thirdly in response to Hero's other statement about plunger draw, Hasbro probably wants all that volume because they're not going to put in a powerful spring.

Hello! I have just started to make a new type of dart with solid foam that is tubular, but I came upon a problem. I know some people have it when they are using non reinforced steamlines in a tight barrel: the darts get all mangled and uniform from all the bending. I came up with a type of breech that solve this problem by being able to push the dart by its head.



Edit don't know why this is not working. Link: https://docs.google....AzKYH6y7Eo/edit


using this, the dart is being pushed backwards and then the barrel comes over it.

Hopefully this makes sense. If it doesn't, send me a pm.

Sorry that I don't have the pictures of the completed product, I lost my upload cable.

I love mongos and can use them pretty effectively, but I prefer jumbos instead. Here is a link to the foam that I use on my mongos: http://www.bestmater...cker-rod-100-cc
Darts made with that foam have a perfect fit (good for springers and air guns) in 1 in pvc pipe.

I know this is not really a alternative plastic, but I have used it and found it to be much easier than its normal size. I am thinking of 1 1/4 THINWALL pvc. It has the same outer diameter as regular pvc, but is exactly 1 1/2 inches on the inside. This means that you don't have to make a superlative head, just a washer sandwich. Link: http://flexpvc.com/c...C-PIPE-Class200

This also adds a lot of extra volume to springers made with it. A snap carbine with 5 in. of draw can use a hopper suitable for my snapbow, yet still shoot a little farther. If you are wondering, they both have k26s and great seals. This means that you can use shorter draw blasters like the aforementioned snap carbine, yet still get very competitive results.

In Australia we use a product called 32mm Class 12 PVC, It fits into 1 1/4" SCH40 fittings and has a thin wall, I believe its very similar to your thinwall PVC. It has a perfect seal with 32mm red rubber bathplugs. We use this material for TS plunger tubes, homemades, etc. with great success.

Extra volume does not always translate to extra power. Up to a certain point, yes, but there could be a lot of other factors at play in your blasters (friction on plungerhead/rod, weight of plunger rod, barrel length, spring compression, etc.) I've made Nite Rifles that are identical except one has a wider plunger tube and roughly double the volume, yet they shoot the same.

I do see your point on extra volume does not translate to extra range, but what I was trying to prove is that it can use a hopper, which is driven by volume AND power. It might also be that because I am using a washer sandwich, there is less friction (which is definitely true) than with the snapbow.

I see your point with the night finder rifles, but the one with the larger plunger tube has more fiction, does it not?

I am not really sure why people think that regular streamlines wont feed through hoppers. I use stock streamlines at just-for-fun nerf wars out of my hoppered snap carbine and they feed and fire just fine. Elite darts will also feed 100% with a hopper as long as you have a brit-hop.

You can just cut off like half an in. from the back of the dart if you are paranoid about dart feed.

Okay so I have a marshmallow blaster that I was repairing for a friend, but the problem is I don't know the orientation of the trigger spring. The reason of that is I got it dissembled. I have tried countless times, but I don't seem any closer to figuring it out. And I know someone is going to ask and yes I have searched all the forums, and didn't find anything. Thank you if you can find the answer!

edit: I figured it out, but I have a new problem. The valve dosen't seal for a whole pump. When I open it up, the valve head is creating a airtight seal with the gasket, but together that seal doesn't really happen. Is it that the spring pushing on the valve head is too weak or is it something else.

the blaster in question:
http://a.tgcdn.net/i...low_blaster.jpg

Pictures are worth a thousand words. I could probably help you if I could see some.

I am sorry but my photobucket is having issues and I lost my upload cable for my camera.

Just remove those devises so you can run them at a higher voltage. If you can't or don't want to do the electrical work, I would just not use a flywheel blaster.

My 3b is making a a bashing noise when I fire but I get crapy range and before I improved the seal it wouldn't make that noise help please

I think your seal might have come off.

I would just go with mcmaster because I order from there nearly twice monthly, and I don't pay too much in shipping. But if you're really desperate check local stores like petsmart, or specific aquarium shops. They wont have the exact same thing that you can get off mcmaster, but it might fit your darts well.

2044T43


It's PE, not PETG, so it's slightly weaker. However, this fits darts that have a diameter slightly greater than 1/2'' perfectly. It's also dirt cheap at $1.41 for 4 feet of it. In addition, it fits the turret holes in all Airtechs perfectly with no Dremeling or e-taping. Hope this helps!

~T

I have never bothered to correct your mistake, but the stuff you are talking about is in fact petg. If you go to the visipak website(where I think all the old sellers used to get it)you will see a small box at the bottom that says "want a smaller quantity", and if you click on that it directs you to the mcmaster page.

Hi, I got a strong arm rather recently and wanted to do a spring replacement, but wasn't sure what spring or combination of springs to use. I was thinking of using a stock spring from another Nerf blaster in combination with the stock strong arm, but haven't noticed any that would work.

Try a spring a little smaller than the od of a big bad bow spring, like a scorpion bow spring.

You can get one from Orange Mod Works.
http://www.orangemod...ct_p/spg-u5.htm

I hadn't seen that. I think like what he said in his first post, he wants some type of stock spring.

Does anyone know of any good places online to buy flat sheet metal in bulk?

Mcmaster.

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[img]http://[IMG]http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s602/birchnerfer/Photoon2013-05-29at06422_zpsdc9b9152.jpg[/IMG][/img]
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I based this splat on Blitz's here http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5250&st=3765
MIne has a few changes. Mine is using 1 1/4 in thinwall pvc for the plunger, everything is also mechanically fastened, and it houses a k45+K31 combo up in the front. This ridiculous spring power, coupled with the already diddle spring in the blaster, allows it to hit upwards of 95 feet.

hey guys
I was wondering what foam I should buy and were I can find it. I have a ton of beige foam and its a bit to thick for me. I don't want to buy crappy foam. I want to buy high quality foam that fits cpvc for springer's and sch80 for air guns pleas leave some suggestions in the comments

Beige foam is what I use and I use cpvc for barrels, but maybe mine is just a hair thinner, oh well. I would highly sugest if you want to use something of the same size as cpvc I would just buy some of Funky's polycarbonate barrels. But if you really want to use cpvc I would just stretch your foam.

I you really want a different foam get some MHA foam or some of ben's foam. These work great in cpvc and sch. 80. Of the two though, I would pick ben's just because it cheaper, and you don't have to deal with Kane.

Useful shotgun absolver pieces: http://flexpvc.com/c...VC-Distributors

Dude, you're not gonna get many responses due to this forum having few HVZ and stock blaster players (I say HVZ due to the limited mods to a blaster). If you want 20 people to come I would suggest putting this thread up on a forum for more newbie and less power-hungry nerfers(HVZ forums).

I have read up on stretching foam and related topics, but I still have a few questions. Does stretching the foam make it inconsistant like in the middle area of the foam? And does stretching foam change in any way the longevity of the foam?
I also really like to make and use 3/4 inch darts for fun, so my question is, does stretching foam work the same with big foam, or does it have some weird effects on big foam?

I know these maybe be newbie questions, and I'm pretty sure someone will respond after only reading the above part, Why don't you just buy different foam? The answer is just that I don't want to pay for expensive foam on the forums, plus my parents are skeptical of the credibility of some of you(I don't). I also am just much more inclined of just modifying my current best materials foam because it is really great foam, it just degrades really easily when used it tight barrels. It is very firm and hard(gigity) right off the roll so if I could just make it thinner right off the roll it would be great foam.

It really depends on the technique you use to stretch the foam. Ryan and Kane have had a great deal of success with the stretching frame they built for their pink foam, but that works particularly well for foam that's already cut into even segments, like theirs is. I'd imagine it would be a great deal more time consuming to have to do that to a whole spool of foam. I've seen some people hand-stretch their foam by tugging on shorter sections of it as they move down a length of foam. I've tried that, and it seemed to work, though it can be tough to achieve consistency while maintaining a good pace.

As for the big foam, it should work similarly, though you may need to pull a bit harder to get it to change diameters effectively.

You know that you can buy foam from other online suppliers, right? I usually get mine from Mcmaster, and while it's not necessarily the best out there, it works fine for me, and conveniently comes from the same place I order most other supplies for projects. It also tends to be a bit smaller than most other foam, for whatever reason (snug, but not particularly tight in CPVC-sized barrels). Of course, I can totally understand not wanting to throw out a bunch of foam, just because it barely doesn't fit.

You might consider switching to looser barrels on everything, though. That's usually significantly easier than shrinking your foam.

Ya, I was thinking of a method similar to what Ryan mentioned it his slug making thread.

I used to use other barrels (mcmaster sch80, PETG, 9/16 brass) and they worked pretty well, but they were just expensive and all needed pvc couplers which were sometimes to big to use. I just like the cpvc because it is mad cheap and has its own couplers.

As for other foams, I really like foam that I can use a high-temp hot glue gun on just because it is much easier on the fingers and makes, in my opinion, better darts, and from What I hear mcmaster foam can't be used with a high temp hot glue guns.

I would really like people who actually stretch or have stretched their foam to respond(no offense roboman). And if anyone has different methods then what has been posted on Nerfhaven I would love to hear them.

None of the above is the obvious winner.

I have to agree with TED. None of the mods are really creative, nice to look at, or all that practical in a war. And I might sound like a butt here, but I think Coop's got some serious bias.

That's what I would do. Stretching foam works, but it's usually far more work than just re-barreling your blasters.

The main problem with my foam is that it is to loose for springers in PETG, but also a little to tight in cpvc. I can really only use specific sizes of sch80, and getting those means I have to order sch80 from mcmaster(best fit) and that can get expensive doing that monthly, on top of all my other orders.

Thank you draconis thats what I had been thinking of doing, since foam already seemed to shrink when used in tighter barrels, but now that I know that you can do in effectively. I was also wondering if heat will make the process go faster for draconis' method.

A absurdly strong spring for the retaliator: http://www.mcmaster....springs/=nqtjy1
Not so absurd springs for the elite guns: http://www.mcmaster....springs/=nqtkiq , http://www.mcmaster....springs/=nqtl1d (the ends of these when cut to the appropriate length will need to be closed)

I hope that this isn't reviving a dead thread (I don't think it is)

On to what I was going to say, I good replacement catch spring is the torsion spring on those little one-hole punchers you used in kindergarten, it is a little big but the adjustments aren't to large.

Another option is if you are using or going to make a polycarbonate trigger, you can cut a little post in the trigger to a accommodate for traditional compression spring.

Threads like these are normally not allowed, just saying.

Just go check out the modifications directory to find modifications that fit your specifications. I would highly recommend ryanmc#'s write-up for 3K's. It is very thorough.

But, I would never replace the 3K's tank because it is already strong enough, and replacing it will most likely make your blaster banned at wars.

To add on to what Shmmee said, stefans are shorter for a reason. First of all foam is relatively smooth, which doesn't disturb the air as much as a consistently uneven surface, creating a larger low pressure zone behind the dart. So, to lessen the affect of the drag, stefans are shorter and have less friction in the air.

I know in blasters with larger plunger tubes, the friction on the plunger head can increase nearly exponentially as in the id gets larger. In the blaster do you experience a debilitating amount of friction?, or is it only enough so you have to change your barrel/barrel system?

The issue with larger plunger heads shouldn't be friction - if it is, you're not lubricating correctly.

The large issue is the exponential growth in surface area on the plunger head. You're trying to compress a large volume of air with the same spring as your previous plunger, but you have more area for the air to push back. Thus, you need a much stronger spring (questionable, considering the force needed to prime the blaster might become too great), or a much more direct outlet for the air to escape from. High airflow, low pressure.

The larger the surface area, the more friction, so, not be be a butt, I was correct.

This type of thread is not usually allowed, just saying.

As for the springs here is a link to all the cut-to-length springs that mcmaster carries:http://www.mcmaster.com/#compression-springs/=qs6dwj

If you want a spring for n-strike blasters, just order one on Orang Mod Works' website:https://www.orangemodworks.com/

These threads aren't really allowed, just saying.

You can and should post this in the modifications and paintjobs thread:http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5250

Make sure you save the stock pump for future projects, it looks like it would work well as a replacement pump.

Yeah, I agree with this, it looks great for 3k or something.

I also will give one word of advice, super soakers are banned almost everywhere, and even if you did modify it, it would be super impractical. If you really want to modify it, just single it and keep it for pest control. Or elephant hunting(I know it's illegal).

As long as you are making an air gun that doesn't need super high flow, use barbed fittings. They work just as good, if not better than clamps. Try using these: http://www.mcmaster....ittings/=ragtzo

But if flow is an issue, just use clamp connectors or: http://www.mcmaster....ittings/=raguc2

Both of these(per single fitting)are about a tenth of the price as clamps, and work really well.

Both of your links go to the exact same place, and yes I have been there

Whoops, I kinda skim posts. Sorry about that.

It's very hard to get a leak-free connection with a barbed fitting if you're not using a tubing clamp of some sort.

It is a little bit harder to get a leak free connection, but it can be remedied by either wrapping over the tubing were it goes into the barb with some e-tape or putting over larger tubing in the same area.

Check the gears, they may have stripped from the extra force of the stronger spring. Other than that I cant really see anything else being wrong with it. But, then again, vulcans are confusing and stupidly built, so all bets could be off.