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Dart and Barrels pictures thread


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#1 cheesypiza001

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 03:54 PM

Dart Door mounted on an RSCB clip which is mounted on my L+L.

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Check this thread for more details.

Edited by cheesypiza001, 19 April 2010 - 10:03 PM.

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#2 jubjub517

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Posted 09 August 2010 - 07:11 PM

I don't feel like bumping the DIY hopper thread, so I'll just post here.

So I figured out that you can save $.31 by drilling a 9/16" hole through a 1/2' ball valve.

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It's air tight, and the the darts slide through with no problem. Occasionally a dart gets stuck, but falls through with a shake, or the next dart pushes it through.

This also makes the hopper considerably lighter. Which solves the problem of having your clip flip upside down when your running.

Edited by jubjub517, 09 August 2010 - 07:51 PM.

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#3 Darksircam

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Posted 04 December 2010 - 09:46 PM

Inline shotgun prototype:
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1" Barrel stubs hammered into PVC, ranges of about 20 feet with streamlines. Frontloading. Barrel stubs reamed out slightly.
Acrylic tubes bridge the gap between clip and coupler.

More of a novelty attachment than anything because of the ranges, but nice for stock wars.
No misfires, attributed to the loose barrels canceling out wacky dart fit. I think the total volume of the attachment is about the same as my SNAPBow, thus no accidental double fires. And the streamlines probably helped too.

Edited by Darksircam, 04 December 2010 - 09:53 PM.

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#4 taerKitty

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 12:43 PM

On IRC and in other NIC mediums, I've been discussing options for individual users to cast their own dart heads. (This is in contrast to Oz, where someone CAD/CAMed up a design and sent it off for fabrication.) I've come up with a prototype:

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It feeds through a hopper just fine, and weighs in at under 1g. I can't range test it - snow outside.
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#5 KaneTheMediocre

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 11:17 PM

I made some new hopperable darts.

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Hot-glueing a piece of a cotton T-shirt inside the wye causes these silicone rubber darts to feed consistently through the hopper clip. 100% successful feed for about 150 shots so far with an aabow and a PAC, with no dart-pooping or other anomalies. Experimentation with partial draw on the Aabow, and a mini-PAC that feeds 9/10 slugs but 2/3 rubber darts, indicates that the vast majority but not all hoppered blasters that can feed slugs will feed these consistently. There's lots more to test, so I'll keep you updated. This batch was the first to come from a small prototype mold.

Weight varies with stem length from 0.7g to 1.1g, the majority are .8g.

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Edited by KaneTheMediocre, 22 July 2011 - 11:21 PM.

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#6 KaneTheMediocre

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Posted 29 July 2011 - 01:38 AM

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Version 2 prototype mold doesn't have the sticking problems of the first one, so I basically got 2 full batches of 64 darts. One of the darts was found to have an air bubble between the stem and the dart, causing the tip to immediately fall off, so this mold is 127/128. That's better than the 40/128 that the last one pulled off, with massive cleaning between batches.

I'm planning on making the domes taller (right now they're .156, looking at doing .188). The darts might benefit from a tiny bit more weight and better aerodynamics. Eventually I might try a larger dome radius (these are .438) in order to reduce the amount of ridge between the head and the foam. I think going 1/2" would have problems with CPVC barrels, but the silicone might squeeze enough for them to work.

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Edited by KaneTheMediocre, 29 July 2011 - 01:40 AM.

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#7 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 31 December 1969 - 07:00 PM

Use this thread for pictures of your dart or barrel designs/concepts that aren't yet ready to have a thread dedicated to them.

Do not use this thread to take pictures of your recreations of existing designs (e.g. "look at how pretty my slugs are!"), unless there was something unique to the smithing process.

Discussion is tolerated but too many nonsensical or noncontributory comments will render it pictures only.

Edited by Zorn's Lemma, 11 August 2012 - 08:43 PM.

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#8 Phoenix66

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Posted 25 August 2012 - 07:47 AM

Falcons, pretty much slugs with rubber cut outs as the washers. Non metal, my entry for Kane's contest.
By the way, this isn't a reviving a old topic right? The thread was recently updated for pictures of darts and barrels here.
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3/8's brass in a drill press. Sharpened to cut out rubber circles from rubber gasket sheet.

Edited by Phoenix66, 25 August 2012 - 07:53 AM.

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The more the merrier (except if you're a 10 year old with a foam sword. In which case - the fewer the better)


#9 Shoopy

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Posted 25 August 2012 - 07:20 PM

1/2" 16" brass breech. I use this for my air guns. No shirt and bed head at 8:20 FTW.

Coupler Locking
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Using a screw and slot to guide the breech so it doesn't over extend. (Better than a rope)
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#10 BiwinningPanda

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Posted 05 September 2012 - 02:28 PM

Vinyl Tubing Slugs:

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Write-up here.

Edited by BiwinningPanda, 05 September 2012 - 02:40 PM.

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#11 BOSS9

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 10:43 PM

Mongoes, yo!

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These have been war tested, and are certainly war proven. I used them for several different types of rounds at SPANO back in july, and they were quite effective.

They are basically made like scaled-up slugs, 1" in diameter and 2 3/4" long (2.5" foam, 1/4" padding). This makes construction easy for everyone, because there's a lot of info out there on how to make good slugs.

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The weight is a 3/4" steel washer.

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The padding is 1/4" foam rubber, which is incredibly squishy, bouncy, and shock-absorbent. Just fun stuff in general. I cut it out of a sheet with a sharpened piece of 1" copper. The colored ones you see above were made out of thick craft foam after I ran out of the good stuff- disregard these, they suck. Padded thusly, and with the added surface area, they really don't hurt at point blank range out of anything, even large sprinkler valve cannons. They do hit with a pretty solid thud though, you definitely know when you're hit by one.

EDIT: The foam rubber is self adhesive, forgot to say that.

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Now, what do I shoot them out of, and how far do they go?

Well, because they are quite safe, I can legally shoot them out of any blaster in minnesota, where singled big blasts are now banned. I've most extensively war tested them out of this big blast+breech at up to 14 pumps. At that pressure they get upwards of 110 feet, yet still hurt less than a similarly-shot slug. With this super soaker they'll shoot for ever, and beyond.

It was definitely fun to use this setup in a modern, hopper-oriented war, It was way more enjoyable than my new supaPAC. having a holstered sidearm helped during reloading.

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Terrifying.

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The breech is pretty basic, just 1" SCH40 PVC in 1 1/4", with an o-ring seal and nice locking tab. Dart fit will vary with brand, but the darts shouldn't slide out.

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6x the fun! These work best with more powerful blasters. This RSCB works on my SNAP and Rainbow, due to the short, tight barrel (between SCH40 and SCH80, don't count on finding it).

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Just whip out your Jobar, 20-minute Mav-Titan, Roto-Rocket etc. and go win some DTC!

I don't have official ranges for these barrel systems on any blasters, but they get respectable, competitive ranges. PM me if you really want numbers.

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So, why use mongoes in a war?
1. Large ammo is fun
2. You can make use of all the shitcannons you have lying around (also fun)
3. If your war host makes them worth extra points in DTC, these give you an incredible advantage.
4. Shield breaking, if your local wars are into that type of stuff.
5. They're just as accurate as slugs
6. They aren't as susceptible to cross wind
7. Shooting large things at people is just so much more fun.
8. Recovery rate is EXCELLENT. even though mine completely lack color, I retrieved 100% very easily.

Edited by BOSS9, 22 September 2012 - 07:33 PM.

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#12 mysterio

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 12:46 AM

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dARts V2

hell yea.
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If two powerful is a problem then just go with one powerful. I guess this style of hopper will work even beyond three powerful..


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#13 KaneTheMediocre

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Posted 26 September 2012 - 02:13 AM

Some molds I had made, and some of the dart tips that I've made with them.

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The stemmed tips are much more of a pain to make, AND require a 2-piece mold, but much less of a pain to attach. The stem guarantees some amount of center depending on how well you centered the holes.
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#14 KaneTheMediocre

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 04:19 AM

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A low angle, 3d printed wye. 2 pieces are used in a clamshell arrangement. It required glue to seal, including at the ports, and it required a lot of post-print TLC to get the insides cleaned up, but seems to work with homemade rubber dome darts and AMIORS. It's not much less painful to make than the conduit 45 wyes, but it points straighter.

Edited by KaneTheMediocre, 20 January 2013 - 04:21 AM.

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#15 Phree Agent

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 07:33 PM

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AND
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The Domes
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Concept of final product
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Domes sitting on top of foam. No stems or hole yet. (Just to give an idea)
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This is the bit I used, thus the tiny dimple in the center of the domes. It was $5 at Ace. I used Polyethylene cutting board as the molds. The stem mold was drilled with 1/4 holes.

Overall, my first attempt was pretty poor. You can see that some of the domes have some air bubbles/imperfections but for a trial run I am considering it alright. I don't have a scale that weighs any smaller than whole grams, so I can only say that these weigh much less than a gram (with the stem).

PM with questions or suggestions. This dart making thing is interesting to say the least.
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#16 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:34 PM

Working on barrels which will hopper any dart (specifically silicone domes). The flute is cut out of tin can and folded which presents a lot of its own problems such as folding up on itself under all the airflow.

The distinction between this and previous flute (BritNerf/Carbon) is that it doesn't actually seal the dart into the barrel material, but just prevents the dart from falling too far down the wye at a really inconvenient angle.

Preliminary testing suggests it does improve feeding so plans are for a more stable version much more rigorous sampling

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"In short, the same knowledge that underlies the ability to produce correct judgement is also the knowledge that underlies the ability to recognize correct judgement. To lack the former is to be deficient in the latter."
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#17 Hammy

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 10:27 PM

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For those who don't want a ball valve.
The picture is illustrating the reloading part of the hopper-clip (and not the stock).
Seal one end of the PVC with an end-cap.
Cut a 1" slot out from the PVC for inserting Stefans.
Then a clear acrylic pipe that does not quite nest over the PVC pipe, unless you cut out a slit, then it does.
Move the clear-acrylic down when inserting darts and move it back to seal the hole, the slit should be on the reverse side to the slot in the PVC.
This system works, and is lightweight (i.e. no heavy ball valve).

Saturday 9th Feb
Its not 100% seal, you can feel some air rushing out when using high pressure blasters, but it does work.
Make sure that the acrylic is a good tight fit.

Edited by Hammy, 09 February 2013 - 05:58 AM.

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#18 Phree Agent

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 03:31 PM

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Silcone domes with 3/0 fishing weights in the stem. I wanted to make my heads heavier, but 3/0s were all I had. A BB might be a better alternative. Each head weighs >1.2g. Some of them aren't perfectly round because I did a poor job scraping my domes mold before applying the stem mold.

I poured the domes and let them cure for >24 hours. Then I added the stem mold on top. I would recommend leaving the stems to cure on top of the domes for >72 hours.

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I haven't given them any kind of durability test yet (Stomping, smashing, ect.) or even put them on any foam yet, but I can say that the metal weight is completely covered by the silicone AND they are soft and bouncy.

I will mount these on some foam before too long and have some durability, range, and safety data to share at some point.

PM me with questions or comments.
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#19 DICE134

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 07:53 PM

Hey guys, just wanted to show off some of my breeches.

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They're just CPVC and one PETG breeches- closed

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-open

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-showing that they all have o-rings to seal them.


PM me if you want me to make you one.
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#20 Birch

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 07:06 PM

Hello! I have just started to make a new type of dart with solid foam that is tubular, but I came upon a problem. I know some people have it when they are using non reinforced steamlines in a tight barrel: the darts get all mangled and uniform from all the bending. I came up with a type of breech that solve this problem by being able to push the dart by its head.



Edit don't know why this is not working. Link: https://docs.google....AzKYH6y7Eo/edit


using this, the dart is being pushed backwards and then the barrel comes over it.

Hopefully this makes sense. If it doesn't, send me a pm.

Sorry that I don't have the pictures of the completed product, I lost my upload cable.

Edited by Birch, 03 March 2013 - 08:34 PM.

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#21 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 10:12 PM

Edit don't know why this is not working. Link: https://docs.google....AzKYH6y7Eo/edit


You need to make that public, or else we can't access it.
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#22 snickers

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 08:23 PM

Finished cutting some blanks. My stash of foam still looks barely touched.
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USER WAS DARTSLINGER'D FOR THIS POST

Edited by Zorn's Lemma, 12 April 2013 - 07:53 PM.

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#23 nine

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 12:06 AM

Started making silicone tips for my darts a while ago, finally got around to posting them here.

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These two polyethylene boards have 200 molds total, so I can make a lot of identical dart heads quickly.
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#24 Alfatrooper

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 08:07 AM

My first attempt at a dart storage system. This is my old style RSCB.

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The air stopper is a PVC end cap with a wire attached.
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#25 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 12:28 PM

Use this thread for pictures of your dart or barrel designs/concepts that aren't yet ready to have a thread dedicated to them.

Do not use this thread to take pictures of your recreations of existing designs (e.g. "look at how pretty my slugs are!"), unless there was something unique to the smithing process.


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"In short, the same knowledge that underlies the ability to produce correct judgement is also the knowledge that underlies the ability to recognize correct judgement. To lack the former is to be deficient in the latter."
Kruger and Dunning (1999)


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