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There have been 251 items by Glint (Search limited from 11-January 97)
#260848 Deploy Cs-6 Sneak Peek
Posted by Glint on 05 January 2010 - 09:27 PM in General Nerf
It seems like there's going to be a lot of electrical crap in there, maybe making things a bit crowded. But nonetheless, I'll defiantly be picking this up.
#257597 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Glint on 29 November 2009 - 10:16 PM in Modifications
- 8 shot, manual rotating turret
- Read loading
- Perfect (dead serious, absolutely perfect) Plunger tube - Turret seal
- Insanely comfortable
- Amazingly snazzy if I do say so myself
#252528 How To Use One Trigger For Two Blasters?
Posted by Glint on 03 October 2009 - 09:12 PM in Modifications
http://nerfhaven.com...6&hl=SwitchShot
Basically you have to attach the bodies to one handle and have two branches attached to the actual trigger that activate either catch/airpin/blast button.
#251833 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Glint on 27 September 2009 - 12:53 PM in Modifications
Tweaked the barrel a bit, made a better plunger seal. The seal's really great, the stock spring can't push the plunger to hit the end of the plunger tube without the bungee. It needs a new spring.
Beauty of a paintjob thanks to Merzlin.
#250300 A Nice Add On For Your Nerf
Posted by Glint on 13 September 2009 - 08:27 AM in Modifications
#249834 Rear-loading Sm1.5k Fixes
Posted by Glint on 07 September 2009 - 01:19 PM in Modifications
So you're using 3 1/16 thick washers, right? Two cut up and one making the seal?
#249211 Recon Shooting Stock Darts
Posted by Glint on 31 August 2009 - 05:40 PM in Modifications
#248989 Improving The Streamline
Posted by Glint on 29 August 2009 - 09:53 AM in Modifications
From what I've heard it's the slightest bit tight, but it preforms excellently. I saw a raider that had one last weekend and it gave the baster more than enough range to be deadly even outdoors. I had to put my gun in the air more than once because of that thing.
I believe he was using streamlines with a bb in the tip, and they didn't seem to be swerving or fishtailing at all even without hot glue stabilizing the bb. although in retrospect I'm not sure how safe that is considering how easily the bb could come out if someone were to pick the dart up and fire it out of a more powerful gun.
That's correct. THe RFDG spring is almost exactly the same OD as the Raider/Recon spring, maybe a hair larger. Works wonders.
As I said before, weighting streamlines with a BB in the tip generally causes the dart to, yes, improve accuracy but decreases ranges. Now I don't know if my version decreases ranges at all, but I think that the hot glue dome weighs less than a single BB.
#248959 Improving The Streamline
Posted by Glint on 28 August 2009 - 10:02 PM in Modifications
Nice idea, Glint, but you could just make 2.5 inch stefans to use with it instead...
That is what I did. I don't need to go out and buy more streamlines now, or spend time making CTDs. I weighted these stefans with a single BB.
They outshoot some darts I made with your writeup here.
This is not meant to say "Hahaha, you suck, stupid". I just wanted to let you know that it is easier, cheaper, and gets you more range if you just make longer stefans.
What ranges are you getting out of your raider BTW? I heard the RFDG spring adds a good amount of range. I don't have one yet, but it will be going in my raider the second I get it.
I might just give that a shot. Clip-exclusive stefans.... good thought.
And I completely understand your direction. Thanks for the tip.
As for ranges, I haven't officially tested ranges yet. I didn't want to test with streamlines because of the masssive flux in ranges. I can definately say that the RFDG spring give it much more of a kick.
#248883 North York Canada War September 5th
Posted by Glint on 28 August 2009 - 08:57 AM in Nerf Wars
But I plan on bringing my Raider too (Glint has competetion)
Ooh competition!
But I think my current streamline count is 40, So I'll be looking to buy more at the war. I know people have streamlines sitting around that they probably never use, so I'd like to purchase some. I don't really know a fair price, I was thinking like 5 - 10 cents per dart...
#248841 Improving The Streamline
Posted by Glint on 27 August 2009 - 09:39 PM in Modifications
Still in the planning stages, but after taking apart the mag and examining it, I think it can be done. It's going to require quite a bit of work, but I'm pretty sure its possible because of where the coil that winds the drum is located.Now it's up to someone to stefan mod the Raider clip...
The big thing I thought would be tough is that where each dart sits only actually cradles the dart at the front and back of the dart, and in the middle there's nothing. So any dart smaller than a stock dart could just fall inbetween those two places that are supposed to hold the darts in place.
Or at least that's how it looks just looking in an empty clip. I haven't actually opened it up for myself.
#248812 Improving The Streamline
Posted by Glint on 27 August 2009 - 06:38 PM in Modifications
I had gone through two different versions of this before settling on this one, both of which combined create this final product.
This streamline mod increases the weight of the front of the dart enough so they fly more accurately without reducing (and might even help) ranges. It gets rid of the hole in the head of the dart which caused fishtailing and gave the dart a mind of it's own in the air, and (with some skill) keeps the heads of the dart almost a perfect dome. Of course they can still be used with LS, Recon and Raider clips.
Materials:
Streamlines
Scissors
Hot Glue
Take your streamline and cut through the head about midway through the hole in the head (I tried bigger and smaller but halfway through that hole seemed the best).
You should now see the base of the head, as well as still have some walls around the edges (very important).
Now create a hot glue down inside the walls as you would with a stefan. Keep adding glue until it's filled up to the walls and also creates a bit of a dome above. Place the dart in an upright position (such as a Magstrike clip) and allow the hot glue to dry, allowing the walls and gravity to settle the hot glue into a dome.
And there you have it. A close-to-perfect dome which adds needed weight to the front of the dart.
I decided not to add a BB or fishing weight as most "CDTD's" have, as when people just shoved a BB into the head of a streamline it seemed to decrease ranges. I think the weight the hot glue itself adds is sufficient.
My first attempts at this, I completely trimmed down the walls so it was just the base of the streamline. After that I added a dome of hotglue on the base. This keeps the weight of the hot glue, but also keeps the dart more aerodynamic.
I hope this helps some people out with some streamline problems.
Now it's up to someone to stefan mod the Raider clip...
#248670 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Glint on 26 August 2009 - 03:16 PM in Modifications
RFDG spring replacement, AR removal and a DiscShot spring in the stock. Oh, and some padding on the end of the plunger rod and where the plunger tube hits the bolt sled.
Plus a comfortable shoulder strap held on with bolts and washers:
#248380 Blaster Measurement Topic
Posted by Glint on 24 August 2009 - 10:21 AM in General Nerf
#246931 Magstike Redo....
Posted by Glint on 13 August 2009 - 06:18 PM in Modifications
Impressive...
Im expecting it gets better ranges, correct? Or at least more clips off before re-pumping...
#246913 Lanard Hand Cannon Modification
Posted by Glint on 13 August 2009 - 04:37 PM in Modifications
I'm aslo glad to see you found another way to extend the plunger draw other than struck by stefans'. Looks much cleaner and feels as if it'll last for longer.
Awesome work.
#246899 Barrel Spacer Templates
Posted by Glint on 13 August 2009 - 02:41 PM in Homemades
Glint, I appreciate you trying to help, but assumptions are no good for anyone. The only ''rough'' spacer I made was the first one. I made one for Lt. Stefan, and I made a wooden one for myself, and they were both measured out and made very well. Nothing rough about them.
Ah, pardon me. I was only aware of the rough one you made. I wasn't doubting your ability to make them, I just didn't know you had made multiple measured-out and well-made ones.
#246850 Barrel Spacer Templates
Posted by Glint on 13 August 2009 - 09:52 AM in Homemades
I'm pretty sure it was oodalumps with his RF20.I'd definately like both of those... How about a rf20? Just if you have time... I know someone made them once but can't find it.
SGM made Doomsayer spacers, but if I remember correctly he just roughly sketched some out and whipped them up. No perfection, but at least they worked well.
#246691 +bow Redux
Posted by Glint on 12 August 2009 - 10:01 AM in Homemades
On the top ones you shuld add a top grip like on the Vulcan, because from the front you'd just look absolutely badass taking a hip shot holding it like that.
But anyways, that's really cool. Great innovation to revive your +Bow.
#246615 Hand Cannon Air Capacity Expansion.
Posted by Glint on 11 August 2009 - 08:16 PM in Modifications
#246342 Nerf Maverick Barrel Help
Posted by Glint on 09 August 2009 - 09:00 PM in Modifications
Without them the Mav won't fire.
#246238 Raider Cs-35: Overview / Overhaul
Posted by Glint on 09 August 2009 - 08:33 AM in Modifications
#245789 Good Things Happen When You Go To Church...
Posted by Glint on 06 August 2009 - 12:57 PM in General Nerf
But anyways, have fun with them. I know youth group nerf wars are/would be awesome.
#245786 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Glint on 06 August 2009 - 12:46 PM in Modifications
And the best part? It's just a shell right now.
Or that could be the worst part... But at least it's still modular. See?:
Did I mention that I currently haven't used a drop of any sort of adhesive on it?
#244519 North York Canada War September 5th
Posted by Glint on 29 July 2009 - 11:53 AM in Nerf Wars
Also, that's the date for SCANO 2, so that might not work for some people.
I also can't make it on the 22nd. I'm gone the 16th - the 22nd. The 29th doesn't work for me either...
Why can't we have it on a weekday? It's summer, after all...
Although I suppose some people might have work and such...
#244147 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Glint on 27 July 2009 - 11:58 AM in Modifications
First off is an RSCB'd RFDG.
Next is the Frankenfinder Mk. II, which made it's debut earlier in the thread. New and improved, it's back for more glam.
Now you're probably asking yourself, "Glint, you charismatic stallion, what's the screw in the top of the Frankenfinder for?"
Good question.
#243350 Stormfire Optimzation
Posted by Glint on 23 July 2009 - 03:55 PM in Modifications
It seems by internal pictures that the trigger has quite a short pull (especially in comparison to the NF). Is this true?
#242588 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by Glint on 18 July 2009 - 06:49 PM in Modifications
Thank you to both Ice Nine and AssassinNF.
#241669 North York Canada War July 11th Recap
Posted by Glint on 12 July 2009 - 09:04 PM in Nerf Wars
I'll do my best to make it to the next Ontario / Toronto-area war.
I'm sure I wasn't missed though; sounds like a regular badass Canadian war. I mean, HeadHunters? Wow. Definately would've been right in on that.
Oh pchaw. I just follow write-ups.(Glint is an awesome modder).
And it's my understanding the "Crooksbow" hardshot used broke at the end of the day. Not a good thing. It can't be primed without a lot of difficulty without that handle.
#241524 N-strike Clipped Pas
Posted by Glint on 11 July 2009 - 08:26 PM in Modifications
Just throwing something out here; I'd be a bit worried about the coat hanger wire. In my experience they can be a bit flimsy. Not breaking, but bending under pressure, thus caushing them to be un-usable. More-so at longer lengths.
A better substitute I've found has been brass bars. Not the flat kind used for the reinforcement, but actual, tubes/cylinders. I've found them at my local Home Depot. THey come in about the same size as coat hanger wires (tags claim 1/2 diameter... 1/2 of what I'll never know) and also one bigger, but also much stronger (3/4)
Of course, seeing all the putty you put on that I'd expect it's not really that replaceable. Oh well; if it works then it works.
And it seems to be working fine. Again, great work.
#238951 The Gemini
Posted by Glint on 27 June 2009 - 09:36 PM in Modifications
I think it was you that posted the AR removal Switchshot Mod (forgive me if I'm wrong, but the question remains the same), and you didn't fully drill through the barrel where the AR previously was, you left the small hole.
Did you ever fully drill through that hole or did you leave it as-is? Because I recall that I told the person who did that write-up to fully drill through. I never actually compared ranges from just the hole to fully drilled out, so I don't know if it improved the ranges or hurt them. 50 feet with the stock spring is impressive.
So are is your AR removal fully drilled out, or did you leave the small hole?
Hooooly crap I'm retarded. I didn't fully score your actual modification process to the guns, simply the attachment process. Sorry for taking up space.
#238059 Modifying A Longshot?
Posted by Glint on 22 June 2009 - 07:34 PM in Modifications
I have a small problem though. The washer head replacement wasn't working at all for me, so I went out and found a new O-Ring for it. It seemed to be perfect.
It's called a "1'' Universal O-Ring". It was a bit smaller than the stock LS o-ring, so it took a tiny bit of stretching to get on the plunger head. It's about 2 times (maybe a bit less) thick though, so it made an amazing seal.
Now I have two problems which I think are connected. One is that when I try lubricating the plunger tube and then inserting the plunger rod and check to plunger tube again, it seems as if there isn't any lube any more. It looks to me as if it all got forced down to the bottom of the plunger tube.
Second is that once the gun is together (also when I try and pull the plunger rod out of the plunger tube) it's almost impossible to pull back. It's not the springs, it's a LS spring with a cut down AR-15 spring (Hereticorp's way). It seems like the O-Ring is either causing a lot of friction on the plunger tube because of the lack of a lot of lube, or it's creating too good of a seal.
I don't understand why though. When I just insert the plunger rod I can move it easily in and out. But once I screw it in and it's been in there for a while and I try and remove it (without the screws), it takes a crapload of force, me pushing on the breech opening slot side to remove the plunger rod.
How can I fix this? It seems like my O-Ring's fine when I'm just testing it out, but once it's all together it's a pain in the butt, practically un-usable. I have to prime the Bolt with the stock pushed against my chest and pull really hard.
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