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Rear-loading Sm1.5k Fixes

A continuation/correction of Dumpy's mod

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#1 TantumBull

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 09:57 PM

Okay, so there are some problems with this mod the way Dumpy does it. The following is basically a mini write-up that fixes some issues I encountered.

Problems:
-The rubber sealer pushes out the front part of the turret, and the gears won't be able to align
-It's annoying as fuck to re-assemble the turret once the barrels are glued in

Solutions:
-Make the gear extrude farther from the turret base
-Essentially elongate the center bar

First we'll focus on the gear problem. Your going to need to cut off the gears on the bottom half of the turret. Use a thin saw blade and always keep it parallel to the turret base. We need a perfectly straight and level cut with as little material removed as possible. Ignore the washer in the picture, I fucked up and glued it on too soon.
Posted Image

Now buy two washers that are a good size for the task at hand that are 1/16" thick.
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Place the cut of gear into where it would rest in the front half of the turret. Cut up one of the washers and glue bits of it to the back of the gear. Make a mark on both halves of the turret so that they line up when a barrel is centered around the air-output.
Posted Image

Put glue on the pieces of rubber and hold the turret base above the front turret half. Put the center bar through both halves, and then press the turret base down.
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Now remove the pin and turret base. Now glue the other washer onto the base as a sealer, and put more cut-up bits from the other washer onto the turret base so that the front half remains parallel to the back half.
Posted Image

Lube every thing up with silicone GREASE. Glue some tubing that fits snugly over the spacer on the center bar.
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Put the turret halves together, and insert the center bar from the front. Drill a hole in the tubing.
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Put some coat hanger wire through the hole. Put on the spring and endcap. Put the turret right-side-up on the ground, and push down on the ends of the coathanger wire until you get the endcap all the way down. Then drip some superglue into the exposed end of the end cap.
Posted Image

And there you go, your rear-loading turret is ready.
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#2 Merzlin

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 10:05 PM

http://www.mcmaster....115k109/=3irre2

This is a neoprene ring that should help the sealing issue within the turret.
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#3 TantumBull

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 10:34 PM

http://www.mcmaster....115k109/=3irre2

This is a neoprene ring that should help the sealing issue within the turret.

I'm not quite sure what you're trying to say here. The rubber washer I used was actually thinner than what you're suggesting and also covered more area. Anything thicker would require the gears to be pushed out farther. I already experimented with o-rings and they gave considerably worse seals than with washers because the turret had to be aligned perfectly for them to do their job right. The washer is much more forgiving in this sense.

Edited by TantumBull, 06 September 2009 - 10:36 PM.

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#4 Merzlin

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 10:39 PM

I simply gave it to people who don't have access at their local Home Depot, ace, etc. to a thin enough washer as you had. I'm sure you could get it even thinner on mcmaster, but I did a quick customization.
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#5 TantumBull

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Posted 06 September 2009 - 10:45 PM

I simply gave it to people who don't have access at their local Home Depot, ace, etc. to a thin enough washer as you had. I'm sure you could get it even thinner on mcmaster, but I did a quick customization.

Okay, thank you for that then, but just be sure, if you (not necessarily you, Merz, just anyone reading this) do go off of Mcmaster, not to get an o-ring. Get a washer. I can't remember the OD and ID of the washer I used or I'd list them. The best thing to do is go to Ace with the turret base.

Edit: Just checked, and while Mcmaster claims the minimum thickness range starts at .05, the thinnest I could find was .062... 1/16 is .0625.

Edited by TantumBull, 06 September 2009 - 10:49 PM.

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#6 Glint

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 01:19 PM

I was just working on a 1500 turret. This helps me out, thanks.

So you're using 3 1/16 thick washers, right? Two cut up and one making the seal?

Edited by Glint, 07 September 2009 - 01:26 PM.

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QUOTE

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Read it again until you figure it out.

#7 TantumBull

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 02:10 PM

I was just working on a 1500 turret. This helps me out, thanks.

So you're using 3 1/16 thick washers, right? Two cut up and one making the seal?

Sure, glad to help. I started the mod and realized there were some problems that a lot of people were going to run into.

I actually did buy three, but you only need two. One of the washers is enough to extrude the gear and also space the turret halves. I'm glad I bought three, though because I screwed up at one point.
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#8 cheesypiza001

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 02:19 PM

Sorry for bumping this thread, but I need some help with this mod.

I did everything the same as Tantum did it except I used a cut down plastic washer to elevate the gear on the rear end of the turret as apposed to a rubber washer. When I put the turret back together and push the pins in, the back to front turret seal is good, but when I turn it once, the pin gets pushed out and does not contract leaving a gap in between the rubber washer and the barreled turret. I even applied epoxy to the exposed metal piece on the back of the pin, but that did not help. Any suggestions as to what I should do?

Here's a picture of the front turret:

Posted Image
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#9 CaptainSlug

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 05:19 PM

Problems:
-The rubber sealer pushes out the front part of the turret, and the gears won't be able to align

To solve this issue on the 1500 I was working on, I used a belt sander to sand down the backside of the front half of the turret so that it wasn't as thick.
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#10 TantumBull

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 07:25 PM

Cheesy: So, as you turn it, the gears push the halves apart, and as you continue pushing the spring doesn't push the halves back together? I'm guessing, since you were obviously able to take the turret back apart, that you didn't glue on the orange spring cap and it was pushed back as the spring was compressed. When you reassemble, push the pin on as far as possible, and do a half rotation. Drip glue down the hole in the cap. Now it'll stay there and will fully compress the spring upon turning.

Slug: I suppose that's one way to do it. I never really thought of that, haha, seems like a much simpler way. I guess I would only be worried about taking off an even amount of the turret so everything remains straight when assembled. It also would have been fairly tedious for me (I have sand paper for sanding).

Edited by TantumBull, 25 September 2009 - 07:25 PM.

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#11 cheesypiza001

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 07:47 PM

Cheesy: So, as you turn it, the gears push the halves apart, and as you continue pushing the spring doesn't push the halves back together? I'm guessing, since you were obviously able to take the turret back apart, that you didn't glue on the orange spring cap and it was pushed back as the spring was compressed. When you reassemble, push the pin on as far as possible, and do a half rotation. Drip glue down the hole in the cap. Now it'll stay there and will fully compress the spring upon turning.

Slug: I suppose that's one way to do it. I never really thought of that, haha, seems like a much simpler way. I guess I would only be worried about taking off an even amount of the turret so everything remains straight when assembled. It also would have been fairly tedious for me (I have sand paper for sanding).


Yeah, you guessed right. Anyway, once I glue it, I'm assuming I should clamp it until it dries....right? (I know this is a pretty obvious question, but I'm just making sure). Also, even when I first put the pin together and the turret is at its tightest position, the seal between the rubber washer and the barrel is really bad. I can put my finger over the barrel and blow on the hole and the air comes out pretty easily.
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#12 TantumBull

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 08:07 PM

Yeah, mine doesn't have a perfect seal either. But silicone grease is essential for the seal. Just make sure the glue is flat on the front half of the turret and it should work okay (sand the glue by pressing the turret half down onto the sandpaper, to get uniform sanding). Mine stayed fine without a clamp, it would only move if I rotated the turret. And just be sure there's room for the spring to compress upon turret rotation.
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#13 cheesypiza001

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 08:30 PM

I know that you in your thread and now you're specifying silicone grease. Will regular sprayable silicone lube not work because it is a liquid and will evaporate while the grease is more of a goes substance and will stay there longer?
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#14 TantumBull

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 08:53 PM

In essence, yes. The spray lube will dry out unless its more enclosed, while the grease will stay.
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#15 chefdave

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 09:14 PM

You have the cap on the back of the turret on backwards. The exact same thing happened to me a few weeks ago.
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QUOTE(VACC @ Jul 21 2009, 08:13 PM) View Post
QUOTE(crispy) View Post

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#16 cheesypiza001

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 09:39 PM

You have the cap on the back of the turret on backwards. The exact same thing happened to me a few weeks ago.


I'm sorry I don't understand this, but can you please explain further?
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#17 wingd man

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 09:54 PM

To solve this issue on the 1500 I was working on, I used a belt sander to sand down the backside of the front half of the turret so that it wasn't as thick.

Same here, except off of the part of the back half that air comes out of, and on an AT2K turret.
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#18 cheesypiza001

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 10:03 PM

You have the cap on the back of the turret on backwards. The exact same thing happened to me a few weeks ago.


I'm sorry I don't understand this, but can you please explain further?


Never mind. I get it now. Thanks so much. I will get to fixing it.
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