The Lanard Hand Cannon (LHC) is pretty cool right out of the box. It shoots huge (nearly 1” OD) darts that look like jumbo stefans. This gun really has potential. The internals are sturdy (and can be reinforced) and the plunger tube is fairly large.
This modification will go over a few things. We’ll be extending the plunger draw to move more air, improving the seal, adding a spring, as well as adding PVC coupler with minimal dead space. Finally, we’ll be reinforcing the internals so that this puppy can last war after war.
First, open it up. All screws are the same length except the one under the pump handle; it is a little bit shorter. Take note of the internals, the catch and trigger mech are a little different than the usual springer. Because of this clicking plunger draw, we can extend the pump pull and get more air moving faster.
Some of the other mods (using a recon spring) as well as wrapping the coupler in e-tape may have come from Darken.
Materials and Tools Required
Recon Spring (or other spring)
JB-Weld (or epoxy)
Canned Liquid Foam (used for straw mods and such)
Dremel (Cut off wheel and sander attachments)
Hot Glue Gun
1/4” Drill bit and Drill Press (Preferred, but a hand drill or dremel will work)
First, let’s start with the plunger rod. The stock seal is terrible. There isn’t much seal at all. Wrap some electrical tape (tightly) around the outer larger ring (Just under 2 wraps). The top of the tape should be about even with the very end of the plunger rod.
It should look like this:
Next, take your canned foam stuff and fill all the dead space. Leave it slightly under the edge of the tape, as we will be adding hot glue. You can use hot glue instead of the foam, but then it is not removable if need-be.
Now add hot glue over the top to add some toughness to the top. Also, glue on your foam cushion. I used a ring from an old disk shooter, cut down to fit.
Finally, add a spring. I used a recon spring and a stock spring. I got the recon spring on by force, then twisting once it was started.
A note about spring replacement: The plunger rod is really wide, so a spring to be used must have a larger ID. A #49 is just slightly too small.
As always, add lube to the plunger tube and ensure a tight-ish fit.
Now, take the plunger slide mover rod thing. Lightly sand the pieces to be reinforced and add epoxy putty as seen below.
I outlined the epoxy putty because it’s tough to see with the color of the plastic. This piece is much sturdier than that of the PAS, also easier to reinforce. Keep the epoxy putty flush with the plastic so it can still slide in the shell.
Now, place back the internals, (take the springs off the plunger rod), and line them up. Click the plunger rod back. It should click 8 times. Move the plunger rod so that it clicks a 9th time. Mark where the shell needs to be cut, like so:
Then, cut out along the green so the plunger draw piece can slide. I think I used a 1/4” drill bit. Drill it out, and then cut it with a dremel. Sand down the other pieces. They just slide together; no screw will go in that post.
When you’re done, it should look like this:
Repeat the process with the other side of the shell.
Now, we need to make the plunger handle be able to move the slide back that far. The easiest way is to cut the handle, rather than cut the shell. (While doing this late at night, I started to cut the shell; I had to repair with epoxy putty, which is why my gun has the putty on the side).
Line up the handle with the holes so you can gage how much needs to be cut.
Cut off the end.
Here it is compared to a stock one:
And here’s a shot of the end. It’s about flush with the brace piece that comes across.
Now, let’s add a coupler.
Cut a PVC coupler in half. Sand down the bottom so that it will fit level and the barrel will not be crooked. It fits in the large orange piece perfectly, and fights perfectly on top of the smaller one with the AR. Drill out the AR.
Take the two orange pieces with the AR and the peg, and drill/dremel them out. I drilled out the smaller one and dremeled the other one with the sanding attachment. Wrap electrical tape around the PVC coupler leaving you room for adhesive at the bottom. It should fit well in the fake barrel. Not too snug, but a nice fit. If you plan on RSCBing this guy, cut the fake barrel to the same length as the coupler. (Or suffer from extra dead space).
Line it up like this:
Then line it up and JB-Weld it. Clamp it while it dries.
Picture Limit Reached, Continued in next post.
Edited by Hipponater, 13 August 2009 - 04:55 PM.