In the mean time, Iíve gone Raider happy
Price: $30 USD
Weight: 3lb-ish fully loaded
Comfy rating: Very comfy to hold and fire
Stock ranges: 25í
Dart capacity: 35 round drum clip / or / 10 round clip
Attachments: 2 N-Strike rail systems and adjustable stock
Rate of Fire: 35 rounds in 12 seconds
Firing modes: Manual or semi-auto
--== 35 Round Drum Overview ==--
I didnít even think about interest in the drum clip till Arconious asked.
Slightly unloaded (so you can see the rotation):
The drum is about 11Ē from the edge of the drum to the end of the clip.
Loaded, it weighs almost as much as the gun itself.
Uses a constant force spring to rotate (thanks pjotrkuh / Just Some Bob)
The black knob in the center is a jam release. It wiggles the entire mechanism. How effective it is, I have no idea as itís never jammed (pretty good considering Iíve emptied all 35 rounds over 10 times already).
The drum fits nicely into the Recon. I donít have a Longshot to attach it to, but it claims to fit on the box.
It actually feels a little weird on the Raider, because it mounts on the side and make it side heavy. However, the high rate of fire and relatively low range make it necessary. It does mount securely though, every bit as secure as a regular clip in a Recon. But if you want to use a regular clip, you can.
It feels a bit big for the Recon. I keep thinking Iím going to hit it with my hand when I cock it. It would probably fit well in a Longshot, but your boltsled will probably break before you get all 35 rounds through.
--== Stock Overview ==--
I know, a section for the stock, this is getting out of hand. But there are a couple things about the stock that I wanted to share.
It has four settings, with 1Ē between settings, only the last and full extension is actually worth using.
The stock is the same length as the Recon stock, about 10 ĹĒ when fully extended.
Unlike the Recon stock, itís very sturdy. You can actually lean into it without it bending.
Itís fully compatible with the Recon, but old style Reconís ďARMEDĒ bar wont fit inside because of a little wall about 4Ē back (easily fixed. See ďFixingĒ the Stock section later).
Because of the long hollow bar, the first thing I thought of was integrations. The bar is 1 ľĒ inner diameter. More then enough for an Air Tech 2000 tank, a Secret Shot Pocket Blaster (Secret Strike), or, with a little work for the trigger, even a Nitefinder. Just... glue the stock in place so you donít accidently collapse it and crush your integration.
--== Step 1: Disassembly ==--
The Raider does not have any plastic ďweldsĒ or clamp pieces, so there is no cutting involved in taking it apart.
If you assemble the Raider before opening it up, youíll have to attach the clip holder. It snaps in and thereís no way to get it back off. Donít worry though, it doesnít hide any screws.
First remove the two screws on the back gray piece (stock clip and priming guard) and the five screws on the front priming handle. Thereís no spring in the front handle, so nothing will jump out at you.
In no order, take out the remaining 14 screws on the main body.
A couple things may spring out (like the trigger, that isnít held down by anything), but it wont be anything major.
--== Step 2: Internals! ==--
What a lot a people are waiting for... high-res internal pics! Due to their size, Iíll just post links.
Close up (at rest):
Close up (cocked):
Itís very similar to the Recon, only not quite as complex and not NEARLY as hard to get back together.
Itís been a while since Iíve opened a Recon, but the spring appears to be roughly the same size, but weaker.
Compared to a Recon spring. Notice there isnít much difference other then the Raider spring is shinier:
Compared to a #49 Ace spring (Nitefinder replica):
However, the plunger catch and trigger release are much stronger then most guns Iíve opened recently, making double springing a very real possibility with little if any reinforcement. Though, for the little extra range it might get, the wear on the parts would be high, so Iím not sure if it would be worth it or not depending on how you implement it.
--== Step 3: Air Restrictor Removal ==--
Now down to something real. Take out the four silver screws by the plunger.
With them gone, you should be able to lift the entire mechanism out of the gun. The air restrictor is just like the Recon, its in the plunger tube.
Grab a ĹĒ wood boring drill bit and go to town. Drill it out till you can see straight through.
Reassemble the mechanism, using the internal pics as guides if need be.
Increases range by about 10í with stock streamlines, though Iím noticing pretty good fishtailing, so if you were to use weighted darts you might get even more.
--== Step 4: Plugging a random hole ==--
As I was inspecting the boltsled/plunger assembly, I noticed a small hole in the side of the plunger tube.
Iím pretty sure Recons have this hole as well, and I looked for one on here earlier but I missed it.
Seal it with hot glue or some epoxy. Let it dry, and sand it down level as the dart clip has to slide over it.
--== Step 5: Priming Bar Reinforcement ==--
Thanks to RVMVTVProductions asking about the strength of the priming bar, I noticed that, while the bar itself is very strong and I donít believe it to be in need of reinforcement, the little screw that holds it to the boltsled does.
Take the screw off.
Note all the void space in the chamber. Fill it up with your epoxy of choice
(hot glue would ďprobablyĒ work, considering stock I donít think thereís much a chance of this breaking, but with bumping into it constantly while messing with the internals, I wont take any chances. Thereís no reason not to use epoxy)
REMEMBER that the end of the bar has to be facing away from the boltsled (see internal pics). Screw it back down and let it sit.
--== Step 6: Cushioning the Plunger ==--
One of the first things youíll notice is the loud plunger head smashing into plastic. Once you take out the air restrictors, itíll make you grit your teeth just waiting for something to snap.
Best way to fix this is to cushion the plunger with a small ring of foam. Now, the plunger coming all the way down against the seal is important to the reloading mechanism, so the foam has be very thin and fairly firm.
I still have my Wayne Tech Tri-Fire Blaster darts sitting around, and they are perfect size and density. Cut it to size and carefully glue it just above the o-ring.
--== Step 7: Sound Reduction ==--
Even with foam on the plunger, thereís a fair amount of rattling and vibrations. Given the range of the gun, sneaking up on people is going to be pretty important as youíre not hitting them from a distance.
Cut up your favorite foam backer rod and glue it to anything that doesnít move.
--== Step 8: Removing the Priming Lock ==--
This is totally Echnalaid doing. Removing this lock will allow you to load the gun even if itís already cocked.
Before removing this, after you cock it, you cant move the front handle until you fire it, meaning if you cock it without loading a dart, you have to fire it before re-priming it.
Once you remove this, you can re-load a dart even after cocking it. Thereís no worry about breaking anything by accidentally pulling the trigger either, as you cant pull the trigger when the boltsled breech is open.
Simply remove the piece circled here:
Take out the screws, and it supposedly just falls out.
--== Step 9: ďFixingĒ the Stock ==--
The stock is one of my most favorite parts of this gun. Whatís wrong with the stock? It has this little wall partway back that blocks the ďARMEDĒ bar on old style Recons (like mine ). It also prevents the clever double springing method by DeceitfulSteve.
Fixing this is very simple. Get a 1Ē wood boring drill bit, rev it up and shove it down the stockís shaft.
I donít have a ďbeforeĒ pic (thought I did, but I cant find it), so hereís the after at least:
--== Step 10: Double Springing ==--
I owe this section to DeceitfulSteveís method used on the Recon. Alright, my final mod on this gun. At first, I was thinking +Bow spring, but it was way too hard. I couldnít even use it with the Recon (which has more torque in the cocking).
Finally settled on a Ace #49 spring (or Nitefinder spring).
Cut a small piece of ĺĒ PVC and sand down the center till you can easily fit the spring inside. Put a PVC end cap on one side to seal it (I used a reducer, since itís what I had on hand). Sand the entire thing down till it fits snuggly inside the stock.
Push the entire thing into the stock all the way to the wall that we sanded out.
Cut a hole in the back of the plunger guard on the Raider till itís pretty much smooth with the side (so the spring doesnít get hung up).
Put the stock back together, put your spring inside (you can glue it if you want), and snap it onto the back!
This should increase ranges 10-15í with Streamlines.
Or at least it did mine.
Add some awesome LEDs on the front, and a switch on the handle,
and Iíve done all I can think of with this gun.
My final thoughts on this gun is it would be a good all-round weapon, for rounds that youíre not quite sure what youíre getting yourself into. It doesnít have much range, but enough to get by; isnít horribly accurate, but it can be fired very, very quickly and in a very controlled fashion; and itís fast to reload (assuming you have another clip pre-loaded).
Questions? Comments? Flames? Witty one liners?
Edited by SPV999, 12 October 2009 - 03:53 PM.