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Raider Cs-35: Overview / Overhaul

AR removal, sound reduction, double spiring, more

62 replies to this topic

#26 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 08 August 2009 - 06:44 PM

I little side note: I was able to pull apart the bolt of raider after dipping it in boiling water for a bit. It seems to be glued together in the same fasion which AT2k turrets are. After pulling it apart, the ARs just fall out, and you can epoxy the two pieces back together.
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#27 assasin492k

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Posted 09 August 2009 - 07:49 AM

what are the pros and cons of the Raider


Pros: has a huge ass clip

Cons: lots of cash needed to get one

What does your name mean anyway "assasin"?

assasin is someone who kills for money
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#28 Glint

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Posted 09 August 2009 - 08:33 AM

How far back does the holllow stock go now? To the very end where the orange shoulder rest is?
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Read it again until you figure it out.

#29 yahman1254

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Posted 09 August 2009 - 09:58 AM

How far back does the holllow stock go now? To the very end where the orange shoulder rest is?


It goes back about 4 inches into the grey tube.

On another note, anyone that wants to enforce or replace the metal rod for priming might want to look into rigid carbon fiber tubing. I have worked with it before and it is extremely strong in the bigger diameters. It's kinda expensive though..

Edited by yahman1254, 09 August 2009 - 10:02 AM.

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#30 HMoney

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Posted 09 August 2009 - 11:46 AM

I'm gonna use this. But I don't know if they sell these around where I live or not. :lol:
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#31 yahman1254

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Posted 09 August 2009 - 12:33 PM

I'm gonna use this. But I don't know if they sell these around where I live or not. :lol:


By this, do you mean cf tubing? If so, then it is quite easy to find sizes around 3/16, which are usually used for RC pushrods, on the internet.

Edited by yahman1254, 09 August 2009 - 12:40 PM.

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#32 SPV999

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Posted 09 August 2009 - 03:31 PM

That was an overcomplicated way of saying "probably not."


Yeah, I type while I'm thinking sometimes :P

assasin is someone who kills for money


I think he's trying to say you missed an "s" in "assassin".

How far back does the holllow stock go now? To the very end where the orange shoulder rest is?


I think this was already answered by yahman1254, but it does draw attention to today's edit. A Stock overview section I played with yesterday.

Hopefully the springs will come in tomorrow and I'll finish this gun off. Or, at least, my version of it.
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Concept mods in works:
#1) Codename: The Negotiator
#2) Codename: XXXG-00W0
#3) Codename: Punisher

#33 Echnalaid

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Posted 09 August 2009 - 09:08 PM

Is there a lock on it so you don't dry fire it?
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There was something on the bottom of the ad that said erotyka. Sounds like something spicy -Renegademilitia15

#34 Chaos-blades

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Posted 09 August 2009 - 09:29 PM

Is there a lock on it so you don't dry fire it?

You mean like the Magstrike.

No, you can dry fire it to your hearts content.
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#35 Echnalaid

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Posted 09 August 2009 - 09:41 PM

Is there a lock on it so you don't dry fire it?

You mean like the Magstrike.

No, you can dry fire it to your hearts content.

Oh I mean like so you can de prime the gun by holding the pump back and pressing the trigger.
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There was something on the bottom of the ad that said erotyka. Sounds like something spicy -Renegademilitia15

#36 Chaos-blades

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Posted 09 August 2009 - 11:57 PM

No, if you prime it it has to be fired.
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- "I'll have a Farmer's Union Iced Coffee thanks"
- "sorry we don't have Farmer's Union, we've got Oak if you like"
- "Looks like it'll be nothing for me then"

#37 yahman1254

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Posted 10 August 2009 - 12:14 AM

This is a pain in the ass if you absent-mindedly prime it without a dart being loaded, especially when the ARs are gone.
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#38 Echnalaid

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Posted 10 August 2009 - 12:40 AM

This is a pain in the ass if you absent-mindedly prime it without a dart being loaded, especially when the ARs are gone.

Found the lock. It is on the other side, right by where the magazine opening is. Just unscrew and it falls right out. Now the pump can be pulled back multiple times. The trigger doesn't do anything when it's pulled back, but you can easily manually put in a dart to get it unprimed.
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There was something on the bottom of the ad that said erotyka. Sounds like something spicy -Renegademilitia15

#39 yahman1254

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Posted 10 August 2009 - 12:59 AM

Other side? Could you post a picture or be more descriptive? Thanks in advance.
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#40 Echnalaid

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Posted 10 August 2009 - 01:39 AM

Other side? Could you post a picture or be more descriptive? Thanks in advance.

My Raider's done now, so here's a a picture from the first page with the lock circled.
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There was something on the bottom of the ad that said erotyka. Sounds like something spicy -Renegademilitia15

#41 SPV999

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Posted 10 August 2009 - 05:06 PM

Other side? Could you post a picture or be more descriptive? Thanks in advance.

My Raider's done now, so here's a a picture from the first page with the lock circled.


I edited this into the first post. Hope you dont mind. It's good to know :angry:

Well, finished double springing, and therefore my mod(s) and edits. Enjoy.
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Concept mods in works:
#1) Codename: The Negotiator
#2) Codename: XXXG-00W0
#3) Codename: Punisher

#42 HMoney

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Posted 10 August 2009 - 08:42 PM

By this, do you mean cf tubing? If so, then it is quite easy to find sizes around 3/16, which are usually used for RC pushrods, on the internet.


No, I ment the Nerf Raider itself. But now I know where to get cf tubing!
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Someday, everything you own right now will be sold or destroyed when you die. So let's be happy!

#43 Chaos-blades

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Posted 10 August 2009 - 11:55 PM

Does removing that lock affect the slam fire at all?

~Chaos~
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- "I'll have a Farmer's Union Iced Coffee thanks"
- "sorry we don't have Farmer's Union, we've got Oak if you like"
- "Looks like it'll be nothing for me then"

#44 yahman1254

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Posted 11 August 2009 - 01:06 AM

I thought it may when I removed it, but it didn't effect it at all. Only thing is, if you are using the stock and aiming, you can't put force back on the front handle anymore. Sorry, its kinda hard to explain, but it is a worth doing overall.
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#45 SorrowX

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Posted 11 August 2009 - 04:49 PM

For anyone who wants to know how slam fire works yet doesn't have a mechanical mind-state, I may be able to help. (This is not speculation, I own a Raider)

First off, study and memorize this picture. (picture of internals courtesy of SPV999)
Posted Image

For slam fire, the trigger would be depressed, pushing the nub on part 1 of catch system part way up(Part one of catch system will be from now on referred to as 'P1'). As the user primes the blaster, the forward nub on the boltsled presses down and locks the top-side triangular piece depressed as the plunger tube catches on P2( part 2 of the catch system). So now, the bolt sled is pulled back, the plunger tube is caught, the trigger is being pressed, and P1 nub is partway up. As the user closes the breech, the rearward nub (in the picture, the nub on the boltsled that is touching P1) catches and pulls forward P1, pushing the P1 nub fully up, pressing on P2 and firing the blaster.

Hope this clears up the slam fire speculation! :lol:

EDIT
To make it so you can deprime it even when the boltsled it pulled back, you have to get rid of the slam fire. You have to glue P1 forward with some hotglue, so that P1 is stationary, in the forward position.

Edited by SorrowX, 11 August 2009 - 06:14 PM.

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#46 Vinnie D

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 02:50 AM

To fix your fishtailing problem, at least judging from doing the same with a recon, you can weight those darts for starters. Streamlines are easy to mod. Slit the hole slightly wider, pop a BB or other weight of choice in there, and fill with hot glue. If you're going cheap, you can just fill with hot glue, but the BB helps.

Consider changing out the barrel on the front. Those faux barrels like the ones in the longshot and recon actually screw up air dynamics on the dart and throw it off. CPVC is too tight, but PVC or copper should stabalize the flight a little. I haven't tried with PVC, but my longshot works well with copper, though it does cost you a few feet in range, the accuracy improvement might be worth it.
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#47 death by cheez

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Posted 14 August 2009 - 12:55 PM

I have 3 questions I need answered about the priming bar in the raider: What is the diameter? How much space is provided for the bar to move? And how big a bar is it capable of handling in it's place?
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#48 SPV999

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Posted 14 August 2009 - 02:38 PM

For anyone who wants to know how slam fire works yet doesn't have a mechanical mind-state, I may be able to help. (This is not speculation, I own a Raider)

First off, study and memorize this picture. (picture of internals courtesy of SPV999)

For slam fire, the trigger would be depressed, pushing the nub on part 1 of catch system part way up(Part one of catch system will be from now on referred to as 'P1'). As the user primes the blaster, the forward nub on the boltsled presses down and locks the top-side triangular piece depressed as the plunger tube catches on P2( part 2 of the catch system). So now, the bolt sled is pulled back, the plunger tube is caught, the trigger is being pressed, and P1 nub is partway up. As the user closes the breech, the rearward nub (in the picture, the nub on the boltsled that is touching P1) catches and pulls forward P1, pushing the P1 nub fully up, pressing on P2 and firing the blaster.

Hope this clears up the slam fire speculation! :)

EDIT
To make it so you can deprime it even when the boltsled it pulled back, you have to get rid of the slam fire. You have to glue P1 forward with some hotglue, so that P1 is stationary, in the forward position.


Thanks, I was kind of waiting for someone to do this...


To fix your fishtailing problem, at least judging from doing the same with a recon, you can weight those darts for starters. Streamlines are easy to mod. Slit the hole slightly wider, pop a BB or other weight of choice in there, and fill with hot glue. If you're going cheap, you can just fill with hot glue, but the BB helps.

Consider changing out the barrel on the front. Those faux barrels like the ones in the longshot and recon actually screw up air dynamics on the dart and throw it off. CPVC is too tight, but PVC or copper should stabalize the flight a little. I haven't tried with PVC, but my longshot works well with copper, though it does cost you a few feet in range, the accuracy improvement might be worth it.


But you'd need rougly the same sized barrel for clearence... so wouldnt the aerodynamics be the same?

I have 3 questions I need answered about the priming bar in the raider: What is the diameter? How much space is provided for the bar to move? And how big a bar is it capable of handling in it's place?


It's about 5/32-6/32" thick. Personally, I think it's plenty tough. There is a groove in the plastic that the bar sits in, and there is very little bending room. There is room for a bigger bar if you feel like cutting out a lot of plastic, but if you're going to put that much torque on it, attaching the new bar to the boltsled could be a problem.
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Concept mods in works:
#1) Codename: The Negotiator
#2) Codename: XXXG-00W0
#3) Codename: Punisher

#49 Cadwae

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 08:16 PM

Hi I just picked up my raider and want to take out the AR but don't have access to a drill or dremel, what other ways are there to take it out other then loosening the glue around the seal? I'm on a limited budject as a college student and most people I know don't have a drill at hand. I tried popping it out with a screwdriver but I cant seem to hit that thing hard enough to give.
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#50 flashflint

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 02:23 PM

Hi I just picked up my raider and want to take out the AR but don't have access to a drill or dremel, what other ways are there to take it out other then loosening the glue around the seal? I'm on a limited budject as a college student and most people I know don't have a drill at hand. I tried popping it out with a screwdriver but I cant seem to hit that thing hard enough to give.


Open the window and poke the AR out with a heated metal rod. It may take a few times to bore it out but works reasonably well aside from the toxic fumes.
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