that is so cool where did you get the materials and what are the prices too i want to make my own 

As far as prices go here's a list

Microprocessor: $2.45

LCD: $2-5

PCB: $0.25

Motors: ~$29

we're gonna need a 3d printer so about 150 and filament which is cheap

So, I met a friend who is a wizard with electronics and I brought him to a war. Long story short he fell in love with the rayven and because I pretty much gave him a laptop he offered to provide materials for my blaster and assist with modding it. So far we have the Picaxe In the stock controlling the display and we will soon have it controlling brushless motors reading motor rpm, fps (using ir beams in the barrel), battery life, ammo counter( haven't decided to use reed switches, physical switches or a color system using lights and darks to tell magazine size), and really anything else I can think off because we have a massive amount of headroom with the electronics but not too much in the physical sense. we might remedy that by buying a 3d printer and extending the stock (if we do that then well make it full auto too with fire mode selector) were gonna need a 3d printer regardless to print the cage for the brushless outrunners (probably going to be turnigy 2627 3800kv motors) Were gonna use these motors because there is already an open source rapid strike cage that we should be able to modify to the rayven. If you have any suggestions or questions please comment or inquire. (sorry mods if you see this as a thread that needed to be put in modification and paintjob pictures) and needs to be put in the sharing thread I see it as more of a request for experience and to help others trying to do something similar)

now for the pictures 

I would need more info about your setup before I could give a definite answer but if I had to guess I would say either your darts are bad (rips etc) or there's a problem with dart fit on your barrel/ breech. what I'm saying is your darts are the problem either too big around or they are just in bad condition.

For the motors I would suggest not going with MTB they have great motors but there are better options for the price like the Titan Hyperion. If you want an insane rate of fire then put a honeybadger as the pusher and use a 3s (both of the batteries I listed are 3s) it should be getting about 14 darts per second. (correct me if I'm wrong)

cage: Artifact( Red cage ) Worker ( Canted Regular )

Flywheel either worker abs flywheels , metal high crush wheels really any flywheels on MonkeeMods.com even stock will work.

switch: your gonna wanna go with a high amperage switch (10A or above) These should work.

Wiring: 18 gauge multistranded silicone insulated wire.

As far as a lipo goes this one will work extremely well but is very costly it's up to you whether or not to make that investment this one is bit cheaper but the graphene batteries perform better than most batteries from past experience. (my opinion don't hurt plz) I would also recommend getting one of these. They are very useful.

The most I have had to work is a 5kg retaliator spring from omw and it worked pretty well. The only thing that didn't work well was that the pin that holds on the plunger head was weakened so the plunger head comes off. I would replace it with a screw and washer(sorry I don't know what size). It also caught every time and only slipped when I dropped it. I did try a portion of a [k26] but it was too strong and the catch slipped constantly. I would be willing to bet that a 7kg omw retaliator spring would work.

What is the chip exactly? I'm not doubting your judgement I just want to make 100% certain I don't need it, as I'm not an expert in soldering and I may end up breaking the chip while removing it.

 

And as for the 5kg retaliator spring along with the stock, how much range is it getting??

The chip is just a PCB used for resistance. desolder the black and red wires from the chip and then hold the soldering iron where the wires were connected and pull the chip upwards, rinse and repeat for the other side.

As for the ranges on it I would say with a 80-90% seal and rather crappy darts i was hitting about 30-50 feet (this is a estimate)

The blue chip on the motor is not necessary you can just desolder the chip off of the motor and the wires and just solder the wires to the motor, make sure you get your polarities right. 8 kg spring will not break the gears just don't add any more springs along with it. (btw if you do this again, I recommend a 5 kg retaliator spring with the stock one, good fire rate and good range.)

Depends on the dart. What type of darts do you have? If they're elites then no.

If you mean the catch at the back of the blaster then that can easily be replaced by buying kit at say Orangemodworks.com or a similar site.

Removing locks does not improve performance, it only makes the blaster easier and smoother to use. If you are going to to the AA size to D size mod then use IMRs not trustfires. Please note that you will be decreasing the longevity of the blaster by putting in a higher voltage without upgrading the wiring, switches and motors. 

Have you done anything to the dart tooth? Everything looks to be in order.

Don't use trust fires, please use IMRs or a lipo. Trust fires don't supply the needed current for this hobby. If you're looking for some good motors here are the links to the MTB Rhinos. These motors fire superbly well. Rhinos are for a 3s lipo which is approximately 11.1 volts. As for a battery, I used this one with Rhinos in my Rayven and its shooting lasers. That battery should also fit into the stryfe's battery tray without shaving down the compartment. Don't throw away the dart sensor, you can use it as an extended mag release by gluing to the stock mag release. The rhinos i bought were below $15 with shipping. Rhinos and Honey Badgers are both 130 sized motors and should fit into the stock cage with either no sanding necessary or very little. If you are going to redo the wiring then use 16 or 18 gauge silicone wire. If you would like a circuit diagram then just google "stryfe circuit diagram" and welcome to NerfHaven!

There are multiple factors that affect darts jamming. How is the quality of your darts? Is the magazine in good condition? How fast are your priming and firing the blaster? Try priming it slower to see if that helps.

If you don't want it to look like a big shock then take off the shell and just use the guts but other than that there's not much you can do besides the rebarreling or HIR mod. I put an omw 5 kg retaliator spring in it by prying off the metal retainer piece putting on the spring and then glueing the metal piece back in, then reassemble.

At least Hasbro acknowledges that elites are inaccurate. The tip design is very interesting, i wonder if the groves will lock in with the barrel or the bolt on the new blasters. 

I prefer my SnapBow Mk. 5 along with a dump pouch full of darts for nic wars and my rayven for superstock, the rayven is running rhinos and a 3s 800 MaH graphene lipo with a 5a switch, i run this with 4 buzzbee 20 round mags along with my switchshot as a last ditch single shot to get out of a situation.

 

forgive my ignorance, but 3s prone to firing issues because the pusher winding down after power is cut will push a dart into decelerating flywheels, correct?

 

I'd still prefer a 3s system, I'll just work around, probably either reduce power going into pusher or run it on a 9v or something similar; don't need an absurd fire rate.

 

I've been looking at the Hellcat 180 over the Rhino because of the higher torque if I did want rapid fire at full velocity

At least in my experience, a 3s will cause the pusher to keep running even when the switch isn't depressed. you might be able to fix this by lowering the voltage.

NEVER use 9v for powering blasters, they don't give enough current and are only good for powering leds.

you can use the 180s if you want but I prefer 130s.

That switch looks okay, but don't quote me on that. For 110-120 fps you should get some mtb rhinos if you are using a 3s (which you shouldn't because that can cause firing issues) and this motor for a 2s which is what you should use, if you want 180s then here is the links 3s  2s

The pool noodle looks like it would let air pass through it. How hard were these to make?

Those motors are the wrong sizes 

So today, I found a 3 year old Interceptor 052 helicopter in my basement. I opened it up to find (Drumroll please) a lipo powering 2 180 size motors in it. I'm tempted to gut it, but I think it's lipo needs a recharge. Now I am not a flywheel freak (yeah thats right), so I need help and advice on if I should gut it and take the chance that it was the lipo that just needed recharging, or should I recharge the lipo and risk lighting my house on fire (if I get the charger wrong). Please help

 

-Montymarks

 

what brand lipo is it, and if you get a lipo bag(there 5 bucks on amazon) then you can charge safely. The lipo bag is fire resistant.

Can I use a stockade motor since I don't have a barricade and I am extremely tight on the pocket
 
The thing with rocket launcher is that it is sort of useless and took up space. I'm more of a fan of carbine with high dps, low weight, accurate and with good range and because of that the rocket launcher screwed it up. Plus the grip on the bottom of the launcher felt awkward
 

you can't use a stockade motor because there different sizes

accuracy in Nerf almost doesn't exist

with this

you gonna test this modulus at a senc war by any chance?

If you want to go cheap, then get a barricade and use those motors,with a 3s lipo (i recommend this one link, or something similar with a higher discharge rate)

what you should do it get some barricade motors and imrs rewire it with either the stock wire or slightly better wire and you will have a good blaster, use 3 imrs and a dummy battery

Hello, everyone. This is my first writeup on how to single a Recon with CPVC. I did this because i was bored after school.

Tools needed:

Dremel with cutting wheel, grinding/sanding bits

Screwdriver

Hot glue gun with hotglue (I would have used Plumber's Goop or epoxy but i'm impatient)

Materials:

A Recon 

4 Inches of CPVC

Teflon tape

Lubricant of choice ( I used white lithium grease)

Step 1: 

Take apart your Recon and remove the air restrictor and locks.

Get your Dremel with a cutting wheel and cut the plunger thingy here or 2 inches from the bump thingy (i don't know the official name so i'm gonna call it a plunger sled)

Step 2: 

Get your Dremel with a grinding/sanding bit and grind down at your CPVC and/or your plunger sled (the inside of it) until the CPVC can fit into the plunger sled then using a adhesive (I used hot glue) to secure the CPVC. MAKE SURE IT IS STRAIGHT

Step 3:

Cut the nub that the bolt sled attaches to the plunger sled off and glue it to your CPVC (about 1/4 of a inch (if a fourth of an inch doesn't work then use a half inch) from the end of the CPVC) while making sure that the CPVC is centered by attaching the bolt sled and eyeballing it while adjusting the bolt sled location.

Wait for the glue or adhesive to dry. Ream out the CPVC.

Step 4: 

Remove the dart tooth and cut the barrel attachment so that it looks like this. Shorten the trigger

Step 5: 

Use either a Dremel or band saw to cut the shell so it looks like this.

Step 6: (optional)
do any optional mods like a power stock or spring replacment.

When done it should look like this.

Ranges with stock spring:

About 60 feet with a FVJ

Comments? Questions? Flames?

ok thanks for the tip 

i don't have immediate access to polycarbonate or acrylic and that stuff is costly

I was wondering how to fill in near the handle without epoxy puttying my stryfly together. As far as other adhesives are concerned could i use plumbers goop?