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Modding a RapidStrike, Battery/Motor Help


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#1 Gunsmith308

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Posted 27 September 2016 - 12:32 PM

I'm planning on modding my Rapidstrike, but I've been having trouble with finding and deciding on proper components, specifically motors and battery packs.

 

 

 

Hoping to get 105-110 FPS

 

Thinking of using

 

MTB Hellcat 180 http://www.containme...op/mtb/mtb-003/

3s, thinking 2700 mAh, 35C

flywheel replacement considering http://www.blastertech.com.au/Worker_RapidstrikeStryfe_Lightwheight_Flywheels/p2928293_15815993.aspx 

Though I'd prefer to find someone in the US who sells, to avoid having shipping cost more than what I order.

 

rewiring to 16 AWG using http://torukmakto4.blogspot.com/2013/10/standard-rapidstrike-illustrated-guide.html 

 

 

Will I be ok with only replacing the flywheel switch as shown above, or does 3S require all switches to be replaced.

 

Is there a certain type of switch to avoid using? was thinking of something like http://www.parts-exp...-lever--060-604

 

I've considered getting the blastersmiths wiring kit, but I'm uncertain if they are UK only.

 

Any advice is greatly appreciated.


Edited by Gunsmith308, 27 September 2016 - 04:46 PM.

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#2 Shadowslayer1924

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Posted 27 September 2016 - 01:18 PM

That switch looks okay, but don't quote me on that. For 110-120 fps you should get some mtb rhinos if you are using a 3s (which you shouldn't because that can cause firing issues) and this motor for a 2s which is what you should use, if you want 180s then here is the links 3s  2s


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#3 Gunsmith308

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Posted 27 September 2016 - 04:47 PM

That switch looks okay, but don't quote me on that. For 110-120 fps you should get some mtb rhinos if you are using a 3s (which you shouldn't because that can cause firing issues) and this motor for a 2s which is what you should use, if you want 180s then here is the links 3s  2s

forgive my ignorance, but 3s prone to firing issues because the pusher winding down after power is cut will push a dart into decelerating flywheels, correct?

 

I'd still prefer a 3s system, I'll just work around, probably either reduce power going into pusher or run it on a 9v or something similar; don't need an absurd fire rate.

 

I've been looking at the Hellcat 180 over the Rhino because of the higher torque if I did want rapid fire at full velocity


Edited by Gunsmith308, 27 September 2016 - 05:21 PM.

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#4 Remzak

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Posted 27 September 2016 - 07:04 PM

You can get worker flywheels on amazon.

Link: https://www.amazon.c...worker flywheel


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#5 CCBall

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Posted 27 September 2016 - 08:54 PM

forgive my ignorance, but 3s prone to firing issues because the pusher winding down after power is cut will push a dart into decelerating flywheels, correct?

 

I'd still prefer a 3s system, I'll just work around, probably either reduce power going into pusher or run it on a 9v or something similar; don't need an absurd fire rate.

 

I've been looking at the Hellcat 180 over the Rhino because of the higher torque if I did want rapid fire at full velocity

If you have too high rof/too low torque pusher motor in a live center style circuit, it can happen on any voltage. Never use 9v batteries for powering the blaster itself; only use them for leds.


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#6 Shadowslayer1924

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Posted 03 October 2016 - 08:36 AM

 

forgive my ignorance, but 3s prone to firing issues because the pusher winding down after power is cut will push a dart into decelerating flywheels, correct?

 

I'd still prefer a 3s system, I'll just work around, probably either reduce power going into pusher or run it on a 9v or something similar; don't need an absurd fire rate.

 

I've been looking at the Hellcat 180 over the Rhino because of the higher torque if I did want rapid fire at full velocity

At least in my experience, a 3s will cause the pusher to keep running even when the switch isn't depressed. you might be able to fix this by lowering the voltage.

NEVER use 9v for powering blasters, they don't give enough current and are only good for powering leds.

you can use the 180s if you want but I prefer 130s.


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#7 DjOnslaught

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Posted 04 October 2016 - 04:52 PM

Or just don't upgrade the pusher motor and leave it stock and use 180s or rhinos on the flywheel motors.
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#8 Pointman9

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Posted 06 October 2016 - 02:54 AM

I have my Rapidstrike set up in the following manner:
3 Hellcats, flywheels and in the pusher
16 gauge wiring
A trio of 15.1a Cherry microswitches and live center wiring
Fancy muzzle device and inner barrel stolen from a Stampede
LCD screen voltmeter
2200 MaH, 60c Zippy 3s Lipo
Fancy underbarrel torch

I have an Artifact Red cage and smooth Artifact flywheels on the way for it. I'm getting about 10 darts per second currently.
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There is no such thing as overkill. There is only cost efficiency.

#9 Pointman9

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Posted 06 October 2016 - 03:04 AM

Apologies for the double post, I could not get it to delete.

Edited by Pointman9, 06 October 2016 - 03:08 AM.

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There is no such thing as overkill. There is only cost efficiency.

#10 RedFear

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Posted 06 October 2016 - 04:31 AM

Apparently the artifact flywheels are difficult to tune and adjust due to the very malleable consistency of the material they are made of. best of luck. i'd recommend getting high torque magnets on the pusher motor so that motor braking is quicker and snappier. flywheel motors look like they'll be fine how you've planned this out.

any end goals for this blaster or is it more of a "i'm building it just cuz i can"?


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#11 Duke Wintermaul

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Posted 06 October 2016 - 05:23 AM

Seconding the Rhinos and Honeybadger suggestion. Run the whole system on a 3s, something at least 1000Mah and 35C discharge.

Hellcats would give you 130+fps, so you're overshooting your mark by quite a bit.

I see a lot of CC links, which is fine, but if you'd like to get them at the lowest price in the US just hit me up.

http://nerfhaven.com...-honey-badgers/


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