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Stryfe build, pointers welcom


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#1 alexhore

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Posted 30 November 2016 - 09:03 AM

Hello everyone, I would like to mod out a Stryfe and would appreciate your recommendations as to bang for buck.
 
Goal/context:
For me this is a three step process, build something that fires better to play with for now, then build a second that fires well then customise the aesthetics of it later, aiming for a powerful and relatively accurate gun with a Honey Badger look.
I have bought my 5 year old (6 next week) the battle buggy and a modulus with all the kits and in exchange I get his hand-me-down Stryfe, lucky me!
I would be messing around the house mostly perhaps chasing him round the park in his buggy so no serious wars I'm just doing it because i'm one of them crazy dads that always goes too far.
I understand the triangular concepts of cost vs range vs accuracy and some of the other trends I have picked up while browsing the forum.
 
Step one for me is to carry out a simple basic motor mod using some 6V 24000RPM 130 Carbon brush motors with a set of three trustfires and some work on the wireing. I know I know this sucks but this should enable me to get used to the internals of the gun and have an initial boost of performance for very little cash. I can then flog it once I have my second build done.
 
Step two is where you come in, lets say I set a £50 budget for the functional modifications on my second strafe, mental note, "don't tell the wife I bought one and spent £50 on it". Just where would you spend it? Maybe £50 is excessive?
 
I already have soldering materials, decent gauges of wire, lipo connectors and charger left over from a heavy lifting quadcopter build. All the basics like epoxy and tools I have too. Its all free to spend on parts.
 
Potential to-do list
 
£0    Electronic locks removed
£0    Mechanical locks removed
£0    Flywheels Stock but I will balance them
I wanted the curved finish but without the teeth as tooth cogs against a smooth dart sounds daft. I have never seen an F1 car running knobbly tires! Blasterparts do them but out of stock so for now stock flywheels
£0    Flywheel housing I am currently thinking there would be little to gain from not using the stock shell. I will experiment off-setting the motors ever so slightly for a very very small amount of spin as I have heard the stories of power + spin = helicopters. However if there is a housing that enables easier fitting of 180s then I might consider spending some cash here.
£2    10a microswitch, any should work but would appreciate a link to something that fits well.​
£5    Brass barrel, ill be going for 1 and a 1/4 dart length giving up a fractional amount of range in exchange for a fractional amount of accuracy​
£1    Lipo alarm
£20-£30    Motor and battery. This is where it gets interesting, I know there is no best to go for its all subjective so i'm open to your recommendations:
  • I don't want to push the envelope so hard the motors are burning out within a month so I guess I would like to build a reliable powerhouse.
  • Not fussed if I need to install fresh wheels now and again and if I am skinning darts time to time :)
  • I would like to use a 3s super high C battery that fits nicely into the battery compartment without adding a margarine tub to the side of it.
  • I don't need it to spin up rapidly like i'm running round stealth but I understand a high rpm with no torque gives you little power or a huge wait for spin-up.

 

Actual question

 

Given the context above, can you recommend a motor that will work well at 3s with a good balance between long life, torque and RPM?

 
Again, I understand there is no eutopia just trying to​ get bang for buck without sacrificing reliability.

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#2 Silly

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Posted 30 November 2016 - 09:22 AM

I would reccomend looking at the MTB (Make Test Battle) line of nerf motors. The Rhinos are 130 motors (No holes in the side of the shell) and Honeybadgers are 180 motors (You need to cut a hole in the side of the shell for them to fit.)

For less work and a play around blaster, i reccomend the Rhinos. Also, they come from Australia if im not mistaken, so you may have to pay a chunk of money for shipping. (I dont know the price, i got mine from a friend)

Hope this helps!

Also, your title says welcom, not welcome.

Edited by Silly, 30 November 2016 - 09:23 AM.

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#3 Shadowslayer1924

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Posted 30 November 2016 - 09:29 AM

Don't use trust fires, please use IMRs or a lipo. Trust fires don't supply the needed current for this hobby. If you're looking for some good motors here are the links to the MTB Rhinos. These motors fire superbly well. Rhinos are for a 3s lipo which is approximately 11.1 volts. As for a battery, I used this one with Rhinos in my Rayven and its shooting lasers. That battery should also fit into the stryfe's battery tray without shaving down the compartment. Don't throw away the dart sensor, you can use it as an extended mag release by gluing to the stock mag release. The rhinos i bought were below $15 with shipping. Rhinos and Honey Badgers are both 130 sized motors and should fit into the stock cage with either no sanding necessary or very little. If you are going to redo the wiring then use 16 or 18 gauge silicone wire. If you would like a circuit diagram then just google "stryfe circuit diagram" and welcome to NerfHaven!


Edited by Shadowslayer1924, 30 November 2016 - 09:36 AM.

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#4 alexhore

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Posted 30 November 2016 - 10:48 AM

Don't use trust fires, please use IMRs or a lipo. Trust fires don't supply the needed current for this hobby.

 

Cheers guys, I realised that after ordering them on a whim, I will run then against AA and see which is best just for my first build while waiting for parts for the main build.


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#5 Silly

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Posted 30 November 2016 - 11:06 AM

Trustfires also (in my experience) wear down motors quicker than say IMRs or a Lipo.
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#6 Aeromech

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Posted 30 November 2016 - 02:12 PM

I would reccomend looking at the MTB (Make Test Battle) line of nerf motors.

 

MTB seem to know what they're talking about with flywheels, so watch some of their stuff and see if you can get them shipped to the U.K. once you have an electrical system designed. My 2 cents is if you don't want the wife to know what/how much you've spent, keep it looking as stock as possible. Remove the inserts in the battery tray and stuff a Lipo in there of appropriate dimensions, and don't do anything to the shell. Look into canted flywheel cages, they supposedly increase accuracy, though I have no personal experience with them. Try experimenting with Nerf's new accustrike darts, they are also supposedly more accurate, and wouldn't involve jeopardizing the function of your blaster.

 

On an unrelated note; THIS is how you ask a question. You have clearly laid out what you want to do, given specific criteria you wish to follow, and expressed your abilities and intentions cogently.


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#7 alexhore

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Posted 01 December 2016 - 03:09 AM

On an unrelated note; THIS is how you ask a question. You have clearly laid out what you want to do, given specific criteria you wish to follow, and expressed your abilities and intentions cogently.

Thanks, I have been very active on other forums not Nerf related and understand how to make life easier for all :)


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