So, so freaking cool. Very good work, and I love this writeup style, as do I hereticorp's longshot, and angel's doomsayer. Clear, concise, and well done. Pictures were taken with purpose in mind, and you pulled it off eccellently. This is a great example to all future write-up posters. Lookin good.

The gun's looking great. I can't wait to see some more.

Just finishing mine up, where did you buy thin wall 1.5" pvc?

I'm not quite sure where the OP got his, but you can purchase it online at flexpvc.com. I've also heard that you can find it at some Home Depots, I believe.

Also, this thing looks really cool. I love SNAPs in any form, and I'm really happy with this one. As sturdy as you say the grip and priming handle are, they'll always worry me...I'm a big fan of mechanical fastening...but I could imagine the glue there does just fine. Overally, supa awesome. I approve.

Where are 3/0 fishing weights in all of this? They're a commonly used weight being overlooked in your tests.

If I am correct, they're similar to 1/4" slingshot amo in weight.

Great work Ryan, again. However, and this may just be the fact that I just recieved 500 3/0 Fishing weight darts with hotglue tips speaking, but for those like me, who have a large amount of darts prepared for use, may have issues with aquiring materials to make and then making new ones. Now I know your goal is to not make this universal, but maybe it can be taken from the standpoint of guns that are more powerful like your 3k, +bow, and my 3k (and possibly all the guns of you guys in the mid-west) using Slug darts, while others could use Fishing weights (my SNAP, as an example).

Now again, this is great data to see written up, but because of my personal circumstances, I'm not really liking where this is going. However, again, I do realize that it's probably just under these circumstances that I have a problem with it all. Otherwise, it's a great idea, much, much better than gun restrictions based upon range.

I'm having a little trouble with the seal. The washers (which are 1/8 in thickness) are not making a good seal with the tank. Any suggestions on how to fix it? I could not find any washers with a different thickness.

I suggest using foam for the seal. I had the same problem.

17/32" brass FTW...

I really need to get around to explaining my method...

But right now, this is my new project. The "2k of doom".

Pics...

Still got work to do, but it's coming along quite nice.

Damn Ryan. Stop, stop now...I need to finish mine first...

What is it taht you used though to fill in around the base of the petg?

Also, is that a rubber washer you used there? That was what I was planning to do to mine, suggested to me by a friend. Did you just like, sand the entire back part flat before aplication of the washer? (minus the gears of course).

I 100% agree with your first point...Tornado shells are absolutely more comfy than X-bows. Looks awesome. I had gone the easier route and slapped a 3k tank into mine, and it was great, but this is more what I would've liked to do thinking back. Can't wait to see final range results once that catch is fixed up. And that ~100' you have now, is that with slug darts or slingshot weighted ones?

Nice, Simple, and just over-all cool. And hell, if you guys allow titans, why not? ROF isn't the best but let someone have fun out ranging you.

Sorry you guys arn't going for the black paint. I though Boltsniper's guns looks serious and professional and that's the look I was going for. I really don't mind it. Visual styling is not my thing, so if anyone has any suggestions for a better appearance than post away. But the one thing I will not do is add any orange, green, pink, purple, or anything that will make this gun look retarded (aka, like a toy). I know that if I walk around outside with it and show a bunch of overly concerned citizens then the cops might get a call about me, but I don't plan on actually doing that. Its a sacrifice I have to make due to the looks of the gun, I know, but I would rather do that than have a socially acceptable paint job.

I really don't know what you guys see in these neon colors.

We make them look like what they are...toys. I see what you were going for, but you aught to slap some orange duct tape on there when you're in public. That thing just looks menacing. It looks very sleak and proffesional, but the real main reason for us going so heavy on neon is that it keeps it looking like a toy (What it's suppost to look like), and less like a real firearm, which generally, in public places, causes a tad bit of dismay.

No. Black. I liked it before. Now...I'm sorry, it's just too "take-it-outside-and-get-shot-because-people-think-it's-a-real-gun." Work on getting some orange onto there. I mean, it's still kinda cool, I guess...the black brought down my feelings on it a bit.

Excellent work! I just had a bolt sled break at the "L" point on me yesterday. I replaced it with another and just re-enforced the hell out of it along the inside of the whole thing using epoxy puddy. I'll definitely do this as well. I'll take your word that it works, because I really needed this writeup. Thank you, again.

Excellent work! I just had a bolt sled break at the "L" point on me yesterday. I replaced it with another and just re-enforced the hell out of it along the inside of the whole thing using epoxy puddy. I'll definitely do this as well. I'll take your word that it works, because I really needed this writeup. Thank you, again.

Thanks, tell me how it goes. I was actually originally considering going on the inside of the sled. Then I realized that the wire would rub against the clip. The funny part is, halfway through the mod I discovered that my wire was too thick, and thus did that part where I shaved down the bolt sled. I may use that same method to put a wire on the inside and prevent the rubbing.

See, mine is singled, so I can re-enforce it like crazy with epoxy puddy on the inside without worrying about it rubbing against a clip. So now I'll do both, and it should be a tank.

I actually really like this. Though it'd be banned at every war imaginable, it's pretty cool, and a shotgun attachment would both increase legality and make it pretty useful. It was funny, actually, I was just joking about making my mom a gun, and she said she wanted a gun where she didn't have to run around the whole time. So I told her I'd make her a titan "looser" rifle, so she can sit up on the deck and just pick us off . Anyway, nice mod, I'm impressed. I like the breech and the detachable stock.

EDIT- Forgot the cheesy Chuck Norris joke. Chuck Norris' tears cure cancer. Too bad Chuck Norris never cries.

Holy crap! loser. losing.

EDIT: for a minute there, I thought the filter was gone. Wonder why it didn't edit Homestarune's post...

Huh?

Any words that involve sn1p1ng and the like are edited automatically by a filter, but in Homestarune's post, the word wasn't edited.

Yeah, that happened in another thread, but nobody realized it. I can't remember which it was. eat shit, loser, losing, sniped, eat shit, eat shit, eat shit.

EDIT- Damn, the filter holds strong. Except for sniped, that made it through. But still, has anyone ever heard of the "eat shit" filter? That made me laugh for a long time. I just typed "sn1per" a ton of times, and from the second time on, it became that. Also, like I said before, again, great mod. If I do this mod for fun though, I'll probably use a different style shoulder stock. Still using the PVC fittings, just a different shape. The breech looks cool too.

My brother and I will be there. Doubt he remembers his log-in...frankly, I'm surprised I remember mine. I will bring plenty of cornstarch.

Diamondback and Parkway on TEAM OMC, ALL DAY!

Parkway isn't related to diamondback.

Nope. But Whitemoonlight and I may be able to swing being on team OMC. At least once or twice (or all day), for ol' time's sake. It will be legendary.

Nicely done. I have a stock PAS laying around...hmm...

I like this very much. I like the idea of shotgunning springers, because they're still pretty fast, and maintain the option of a certain # of darts, making it harder to dodge. I just finished up the main part of my originally done shotgunned BBBB, and I love having the spread of darts. Good work. I look forward to the writeup.

Hmm...cool. That sliding wedge trigger is interesting. I won't say anything about shorter being better for fear of the jokes that would ensue, but you get the point. However, there are a couple things that worry me. Most importantly, anything that's fastened with glue... No matter how secure you think that the trigger is, that the clothespin is, or that the roofing nail is, it's likely to let you down sometime. I'm not sure how you could work it out with your design, but mechanical fastening is always better. See here:


That trigger will never fail, ever. Like I said, I'm not sure how you could work something out with your design, and I understand why you've chosen to go with it. However, this is something you may want to consider. This blaster is only 2" longer than yours:

(With a barrel in the hopper that's the same length as yours)

Another quick note, but this is really just personal preference. You may benefit from developing some sort of sheath for your blaster that will cover up the priming slide as you prime the blaster so that it won't slice up your cheek as you prime.

Again, I like what you've done to improve the length issue with the initial design. I'm curious, what kind of draw are you getting? I may have missed it in the initial read-through...

I'm curious as to why the longshot is being converted into yellow, while the raider is being released as blue as part of the n-strike line. I'm guessing they'll re-color that at some point too. The ten-shot does look sick, and excitingly reminicent of he SM1k. However, to whoever said the pump would have to be very small, making it possiby a springer, the pump could run through the middle of the turet, allowing it to extend all the way to the back of the gun. Also, on the capture the flag pistols, the second "barrel" seems to be more of a ammo holder. I'm still skeptical as to whether those pistols will be pump or reverse plunger slide priming mech designs. The plus shaped looking bar could be simply for looks, rather than be part of a pump.

please put some clothes on, but on the plus side, you do have a shirt on.

ontopic: My current setup is running around with my Belt blaster in my apartment. the longest sightline is only 20 ft.

He's wearing clothes...I may be missing a huge amount of sarcasm though.

So that I pass as on topic:
Haven't had war experience to share my primary and sidearm, but at some upcoming wars, they are to be:

Primaries: PAS, Countess-like modded Max shot, Stormbringer, Splitfire, Plusbow, The New Firm

Sidearms: Lnl, Pistol splat

Extremejumpy is needing pants seriously how do you miss that. It's very disturbing. We need a photo filter for these types of things.

PRimaries:AT2K's, BBBB,AT3K's.

Sidearm:Brassed NF.

I may be wrong, but are those not plaid shorts? If they aren't, dude, put some pants on. But seriously...I think they're plaid shorts.

dude your weird

Brilliant and invigorating.
Such a refreshing surprise to hear intelligent conversation.
Mommy must be proud. Mommy must be very proud.

Keep in mind I could rip off your legs and sever your hip bone from your body. Only to wear it like a brass knuckle to pummel your dying Torso into pumice. At least the birds and scavengers will have something to eat. That's not an entire waste of existence is it?
Your mother fed the birds, she must be proud indeed.
Simple bread crumbs will do next time.

While that's scary enough as it is...what's really scary is that he probably good really do that. I'd watch your ass spoot.

And Coop, I agree. Same thing happened to me.

By the way, I figured I'd throw this info up here. I had asked angel about the lengths of the individual pieces via PM, when I should've just posted here. Here're the estimated lengths:

Main Portion of PVC- 4 1/8"
Other part with the couplers over it- 2 7/8" (Makes 7" which is what the 9/16 is).
9/16" Brass- 7"
19/32" Brass- Still not sure on this one. Around 4 1/2, 4 3/4
And then all the other measurements that were already posted.

EDIT- I know this isn't my topic, but since Angel had asked to ask further questions here, I figured I'd post the results of my previous ones.

Freaking awesome man, just awesome. I'm curious though, why the threaded coupler? Wanted to keep the ability to change barrels? Anyway, sick job, and I love the paintjob. Nice ranges, nice vid, and amazing blaster.

Freaking awesome man, just awesome. I'm curious though, why the threaded coupler?

Threaded coupler was the clients request. It makes sense though. Would you want to pull the breech forward and accidentally pull the whole breech system off the gun? I imagined it happening so I happily stayed with the threaded coupler.

I also just thought of a benefit to it. Much easier to transport and store with the breach off. My question wasn't really why threaded and not slip couplered, but why threaded and not just a stationary breach. I guess it's just easier to deal with if you can detatch it. Because of this, I've been hunting a Max Shot down all day. If anyone has one, feel free to let me know. Check out my sales thread and my sig to see what I have to trade.

I'm seriously beginning to think that Ryan did this just to start a mosh of opinionated arguments. I have to say though, out of anyone, I agree with rork's ideas the most. My only disagreement is in the realm of dart limitations. Maybe this is because I just acquired/made over 500 non-slug-style stefans...but either way. The point still stands...those who have the supplies to make or already have non-slug-style darts would be hindered by that constraint.

Either way, it is pointless to fight progress. Each situation should be take case by case, war by war, host by host. The bottom line is, we're not playing a legitament, legalized sport here. We don't need a national ruleset. We're friends running around shooting modified toy guns at people. The minute we start to make loads of rules and conditions other than for safety reasons is the minute we start to take away the fun of it all, in my eyes.

I mean, yeah, rebarreling all your guns would suck, and it would eliminate alot of turrets,

That right there, along with the added fact that lots of people already have stocks of micros and or rolls of micro-sized foam turns myself and probably a lot of other people off to that idea. Otherwise, sure, it'd be cool, but practically, it's just really not ideal...

...it's half the field that completely dominates the other half.

The solution to that right there is to balance teams, which, again, as many have touched on, is up to the host of the war. This matter is so, so diverse to even spark efficient discussion, other than to bring to everyones attention that this is a game. A game with no single ruleset, but many that are changed and created by war hosts. I 100% have to agree with vacc in that it's up to the host of the war, and nobody should criticize the way other people play their games at other wars.

Now, that being said, would I attend a war where I'll only be able to use a ball blaster or a blaster created to some other restricted standards, no. Especially if the war is a distance away. Now maybe one might say I'm not seeing the fun of running around with toy guns...well, sorry to you guys...I enjoy it my way, and as does everyone else (which is the point I'm trying to get across.) One important aspect of this hobby for me is that there's not a universal ruleset, nothing that everyone has to follow. It's open for interpretation however you want to do it.

And I get what you're saying, Zorn, about your playing field being entirely unbalanced but again, like I said before, that's where the orginizer steps in and rearranges the teams to make them more fair.

Honestly, this can be debated on and on for hours upon hours...In the end though, it should really be left up to the war orginizer. Depending on the situation, +bows shooting 140' could be absolutely acceptable. This can be based on a number of factors; how leaniant the host of the war is, how many similar blasters there are in play, and even based upon who is attending the war and what the general concensus is. If the majority of people at the war deam the blaster too powerful, then maybe it should be put away for the day, and another should be used. Regardless, a backup blaster should always be brought along with average range/rof that has been deamed acceptable. If someone doesn't have access to more than one primary, then it should be up to the war orginizer to provide for anyone whose blaster they deam too powerful.

Personally though, I feel that if you can build it, you should use it, unless it gets to the point where it becomes unsafe. Then though, as the day progresses, and people begin to complain that you're dominating the field of play a little too much, it's time to pick up a new blaster.

It's really a matter dependent on a lot of things, which makes it hard to take a solid stance on...but the above is a pretty good summation of my feelings on the topic.

EDIT- Didn't read your post entirely. No, I haven't attended all that many wars, but those I've been to have been enough to have a stance on the topic.

Just want to add one more thing. One blaster commonly known to mess up the balance of the playing field is the RFDG ("Doomsayer"), which as we all know has been subject to a blanket ban by the mag 7. After seeing one in play at apoc, I really think that the same procedure I detailed above should be taken. Rather than an outright ban on this and other specific blaster designs, anything deamed safe should be allowed at the beginning of the day, and as the day progresses, should be weeded out based upon what seems to be dominating. If this procedure were taken, I honestly don't think that doomsayers would have been kicked out at apoc.

EDIT 2- Just another example. Your hopper clip w/ +bow could be used by anyone else and not be nearly as effective as it was in your hands. Now, if it had been blanket banned, or the darts had been restricted, we wouldn't know that. However, if the individual using it got a chance to at the beginning of the day, it would be understood that it wasn't /too/ good.

If we don't want to go about limiting effective dart range, then we should probably limit any 100'+ gun to 4 shots before reloading.

The problem with that is that it gets into what I was saying before, regarding getting too specific about gun bans other than for safety reasons. I completely understand what you're getting at with the hopper clip (I'm gonna have to get one of those...sounds insane), and with things like that, sure, they may have to just be outright banned. But guns like ryan's 3k, RFDGs, and the like, those should be done case by case after the person has actually used it for a round or two. It shouldn't get to the point of "Oh damn, that thing has 8 barrels? How far does it shoot? 100+'? Banned." There should be some sort of trial time, where the attendies and host of the war can feel it out, and see whether or not they're cool with the person using it all day.

With the hopper clip though, apparently it's just too good, and doesn't exactly appear to take skill to make, so maybe that deserves a ban.

Which I think is a pretty gay way to nerf, but not really ban-worthy, unless it becomes an issue of a fun-retardant gun.

*********************************

This hobby is about skill, and the way skill is developed is through a neverending contest of technological and tactical oneupmanship. I don't want a gun as good as the other guy's; I want to have a better gun, just like I want to be a better shot, and a better dodger. We don't make the fast guys run around wearing a backpack full of rocks, even though sheer speed can win a round far more decisively than any weapon.

*********************************

(I've collected and seen more welts dealt out from NFs and 2Ks than 4bs),

*********************************

I like to be challenged, and frankly, any nerfer worth his salt who is confronted by superior weaponry should react with excitement.

*********************************

I get my share of kills, but I honestly feel that it is my tactics and accuracy, far more than my gun.

*********************************

Short of an HPA powered 100+ semiauto, I can't honesty say that there's anything that I wouldn't go up against for any reason other than liking my hide.

Just signalled out a few points that explain my thoughts exactly.

Another thing...I personally am strongly against dart restrictions. That is, of course, unless it weighs more than the standard 1/4" slingshot weight or 3/0. That causes hassle for anyone who...say...just bought a load of slingshot weights... . In all seriousness though, at that point, it just creates difficulty for at least some percentage of those out there. Personally, I feel that if we stick by what I quoted above, this won't really be an issue.

I noticed I hadn't commented in this...great job, man. I love seeing that you've posted a new topic in the mods section. I can't wait for the next to pop up. You could use a 1/8" thick piece of polycarb and just compensate by attaching the rotator mech of the turret farther back, right?

Again, good work. I look forward to seeing more.

Dizzy, you may correct me if I'm wrong, however, I think I can answer a few of these questions. From what I can tell, you don't hold the MS trigger down while pumping in order to fill the tanks. You pump, it fills the Magstrike bladder, stop pumping, and then in order to fill the tanks, you just hold down the trigger for however much time it takes to fill the tanks. Then release the MS trigger, the tanks are filled, and you're good to fire them off. Also, to adress the problem you're having with yours. Is your MS bladder attached directly to your tanks/trigger, or does it have the origingal MS release valve still in place? If not, that would be your problem. As you can see, in this mod, the release valve is still in place, which is what is utalized to regulate the pressure entering the 3k and hornet tanks.

Thanks for the response, diamondback.

I have a T coupler between the MS bladder and the MS trigger (release valve). This is then hooked up to the check valve the titan normally connects to, and then right to the hornet trigger mechanism. It takes about 20 good pumps (the MS pump is significantly larger than the hornet pump), the MS bladder is 1/3rd full, hornet tanks are full, and then any additional pumping goes right out the hornet barrels. Leaky barrel or OVRP? I'm not sure.

I might have to add a ball valve like in this thread Marvelous Magstrike

No problem at all.

I'm a bit confused as to your setup. So in this order:
Pump
/
/
Bladder
/
/
Tconnector (Goes two ways)------MS trigger
/
/
Check valve
/
/
Hornet trigger mech
/
/
Hornet blast chambers?

If this is the case, then you have nothing in between restricting the air from going directly from the bladder to the hornet integration. Therefore, when you're pumping, it pumps both the bladder and the hornet, and as per usual op valves, you will at 20 pumps, like you stated, achieve the pressure in the bladder and hornet that will open the op valve. In order for your system to work effectively, you must have the MS trigger (release valve) in between the bladder and the hornet, so that you can completely fill up the bladder, and then at your leasure release air from the bladder into the hornet mech.

EDIT- The MS release valve (main MS trigger) should serve the same purpose as the ball valve would.

Diamondback, the Magstrike release valve is there in place to keep the air from going out of the bladder until I pull the MS trigger.

Yep, that's what I was trying to say. Sorry, I know I may have rambled a tad. It serves the purpose of regulating the air leaving the MS bladder correct? So when you are not holding the trigger, no air leaves the bladder, so you're free to fire the 3k and hornet, and then when you squeeze it, it allows air to leave the bladder and fill the tanks, correct? That's basically the point I was trying to make before.

If I'm correct as to what Fome was saying about his setup, then he does not have the MS release valve set in between the bladder and the blast chambers, resulting in having nothing to stop the air from traveling freely from the bladder to the tanks and subsequently triggering the op valve.

Sorry to hear about the 3k tank. It'll be nice to have a nice new tank in there though, although I did like the patch job.

Dizzy, I love the mod and the pj and Hector . The gun itself seems pretty effective, and I'm interested to see how ranges turn out once you get around to it.

One comment though. One thing you may want to do is cut down inside of the shell where the bladder expands, so that it has more room to. This may allow you to squeeze a little more shots per set of pumps even though you may have to pump a few more times.

Very cool!

I love the creativity of your mods.

I am really interested to hear about the quirks of your gun, ie. how you'd have to hold the MS trigger down while pumping in order to actually fill the tanks. How comfortable is it to fire with the two triggers in the back of the shell? And finally, do you have any problems with unintentional firings/leaks? Ie., does firing the main tank cause the hornet tanks to lose back pressure and fire or do the check valves prevent that?

I ask because I'm integrating a hornet into a MS and am having troubles. The hornet OVRP activates before the MS bladder is even half full, causing any additional air pumped in to simply leak out of the hornet. Did you run into any problems while assembling?

Again, awesome mod!

Dizzy, you may correct me if I'm wrong, however, I think I can answer a few of these questions. From what I can tell, you don't hold the MS trigger down while pumping in order to fill the tanks. You pump, it fills the Magstrike bladder, stop pumping, and then in order to fill the tanks, you just hold down the trigger for however much time it takes to fill the tanks. Then release the MS trigger, the tanks are filled, and you're good to fire them off. Also, to adress the problem you're having with yours. Is your MS bladder attached directly to your tanks/trigger, or does it have the origingal MS release valve still in place? If not, that would be your problem. As you can see, in this mod, the release valve is still in place, which is what is utalized to regulate the pressure entering the 3k and hornet tanks.

I'm also curious as to pressurization problems with the tanks. Are you able to fire the 3k without depleating the hornet, and the other way around? I see the check valve, but it does not seperate each type of tank from one another. Any insight would be great.

To clarify, you don't have to use thinwall for the front part of the plunger. I used thinwall because 1. I had it, 2. it's easier to cut slots in thinwall with the bit I have, and 3. for the weight advantage. Schedule 40 would work just fine.

As far as the slots, I was trying to keep them as non-annoying as possible. The front slots don't need to be very accurate, just big so as to keep the spring rest clear. The back slots could be cut with a saw, since they're open to the end of the tube.

Gotcha. Yeah, slots aren't to bad, particularly if you drill a series of holes and then just connect the dots.

No I will be fine I'm an experienced nerf modder just a new member to nerfhaven. But I just wanted to make sure the supplies were the same as say the snap one I should be able to make this in around an hour and a half anyway thanks for the help. Once again nice job carbon

I'm very anxious to see pictures once you've completed your build.

Also, Carbon, this is very, very cool. When I saw the initial pictures I was very confused as to the "Revolution" of it all. I'm glad this is what it turned out to be, though. The over-all design is very interesting, and looks to be rather sound in every way. The only two potential points of irritation that I see are acquiring 3/4" thin-walled PVC, and cutting slots. Of course though, they're really not all that much of a nuisance. Great work, I'll certainly building one once the contest is over (I won't have the time until then)...

Hey...I got a crazy idea: how about you stop all that sigging stuff? It's not even my thread and it annoys me.

added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole.

Anyway, 'cause Talio scares me. I dig it, rork. A little too much wood for my taste, I like the familiarity of just using CPVC particularly for the plunger rod. Looks a lot like Fome's design. Once we get settled back here, I'll probably fool with some pump action designs I've been tossing around in my head and share. I've always wondered though, since I first saw the design when Fome posted it, how sturdy is the 90 between the priming bars and the rear plate with the hole through it to accommodate the plunger rod?

Excellent video, can't wait to see this beast in person.
Again, I truely admire this blaster.
And by the way, I think the sight's new?
I like it.

And no, no deal is falling through, so don't worry.

Please ignore.

Please ignore.

Wow, I have to say. Originally, I more skimmed through, noticing cleanliness and got the basic idea. Now, I've actually read through it, and that picture makes it so much easier to understand. Again, I must say nice work, and like those before me, thank you. I will be re-creating this as an option opposed to my manual breech seen here (Insert link in a moment). That way I have multiple options. I must say, one plus for me is that it's removable. I really like that about it, and that was one of my main goals.

Another was something else that you accomplished. Having a portion of the breech slide into the plunger tube. Well executed, again. I am so glad to see all of my ideas done out so beautifully (Even though they came from your head for this project), but you have no idea how similar this is exactly to what I was designing. Your design though is much simpler, I believe. Mine was a bit complicated, but I think I will go through with it at some point, just to see. Anyway, again, nice work. Sorry I double posted, but that picture really did help my understanding of this breech's operation.

Thank you so much for all the compliments Good luck with your designs.
Also, I don't see any double-posts...

Thanks.
Well, not in succession...but earlier in the thread. Haven't quite figured out yet if that's acceptable or not.