I recently bought a range master at target and it is not shooting good at all. I added 2 cpvc couplers for making a cpvc breech and it will only shoot like 10 feet. I am using a butyrate barrel. there is absolutely no air leaking from the coupler to tank seal and the barrel seal is basically
perfect. I pluged the oprv. I have a panther that has a e tape seal and it shoots sooo much harder than this range master. What confuses me is that when I put the dart down the coupler stub it will shoot like recon range. It is almost like the tank doesn't have enough volume in it. I have been going from 7 inch barrels to 2 inch barrels. Every time the same thing happens and it just kind of falls out of the barrel. I an pumping it up 7 to 8 times. It holds air just fine and gets harder to pump as usual to any air gun. I am not posting pics because I see no need for this. If someone wants me to show a pic just ask. Anyone got any advise?

How is your dart/barrel fit? I know from experience that even a small amount of leakage around the dart can cause a huge decrease in range.

Excellent work! That looks even more simple than the cardboard one. I'm glad the trigger worked out.

What happens if you add more rubber bands? Do you see a range increase?

Couldn't you add a clip by just putting a box filled with darts on top? Right, the dart pusher. You'd need to figure out a work-around to that, I've got one idea but it'd be hard to explain.

Is the hot-glue for holding the dart in place, keeping it from dropping out, or ... ?

Side note - this system is basically the same thing as a crossbow. We have bow-powered blasters getting great ranges, and this does away with the mass of the plunger completely (and uses elastic instead of bow arms; bungies or surgical tubing could also work). There's certainly potential to get 100'+ ranges out of the darts, we just need to figure out how to do that safely and reliably. My guess is a longer draw stroke than traditional blasters use.

Thanks! The trigger works great!

The gun functions fine with two rubber bands, any more and the dart pusher goes flying.

Yes, the hot glue holds the dart in place.

A bow is a great idea! I would solve so many problems, and would work with the current trigger system.
If you used a rope stopper, (like Ryanmcnumbers rainbow pump) you could potentially use a very strong bow, without the stress of the dart pusher impact.

What advantages do you see this providing over a pneumatic energy delivery system?

Could you somehow integrate a magazine and then change the priming mechanism so you could quickly unload a lot of darts at short range, in more compact fashion than say a Maverick, and with greater consistency than flywheels?

This blaster has a few advantages over pneumatic systems, as well as some disadvantages. For one, there is less of an energy loss due to friction between plunger tube and plunger head, as the gun does not have such components. Pneumatically actuated blasters typically have a rather large amount of dead space, which can reduce range, while guns operating with a direct propulsion system do not.

Note: sometimes a small amount of dead space can be beneficial, as the air acts as a spring, compressing until the pressure overcomes the friction holding the dart in place, therefore creating a high pressure burst of air.

One of the biggest advantages is in this system’s ability to be adapted to any size, or shape, as it has very few limitations in the way it can be situated in a shell.
One of the disadvantages of this system would be the stresses present in a more powerful blaster. In order for the range of such a gun to be competitive with pneumatic blasters, it would need to have a blisteringly fast dart-pusher, which would create an enormous impact with each shot.


In answer to your other question:
I have thought about the possibility of a magazine fed blaster which uses a direct propulsion system. Meaker IV and I were throwing around some ideas in the cardboard pistol thread, but we never came to a concrete conclusion. Overall, I think that it could be done, but it would take a large amount of planning/work.

The gun would not have to be much larger than it is now in order to be clip fed. Making it able to fire quickly would not be difficult, as there are many options for a priming system. An example would be a slide made of polycarbonate, which has slots for the dart pusher rod.

Overall, I think that the any future direct propulsion blasters will need to operate using a spring instead of a rubber band. Springs are much more reliable, and much easier to connect than rubber bands. Of course, I have seen some members use surgical tubing as a spring, with good results.

Question: how far does it shoot?
Comment: looks like a real gun, I don't think the cops would like it if you sprayed it black.
Flame: very cool, very creative, very......interesting

Mully

It shoots about 35ft flat, using two rubber bands.
I didn't paint it for a reason.
Thanks! P.S. That's not a flame.

First, I want to say that all credit goes to Meaker IV for the trigger design!


This gun is the brainchild of my cardboard nerf pistol, which was a prototype. It is still made of an easy to machine material (particle sheet), and is easy to build.
Again, I did not make templates, but the design is super flexible, and really depends on your personal preference. Enough said, let’s get to work:

Parts:
Particle sheet (MDF?) About one (1) square foot needed.
Some 1/8” metal round
Hot-glue
½” thick cutting board
Small extension spring
A tiny bit of 1/8” Polycarbonate (about two (2) square inches)
Rubber o-ring
And…that’s it.

Tools:
Dremal
Dremal bits
Drill
Hot-glue gun
Band saw or scroll saw (you could use a handsaw…or a Dremal)
Sandpaper

(You could really use a Dremal for everything, that is, except the glue)


Begin with…
A properly adjusted camera:


In all seriousness, you need to cut out something which looks similar to the panels pictured:


Next, you will need two Polycarbonate scraps which fit on the end of the gun:


Glue the aforementioned Polycarbonate pieces to the front of the body panels:


Now, cut your o-ring into sections which fit across the long edge of the Polycarbonate:


I did not get good pictures of the catch, but it is simple:


Here is another picture:


Next, you need to cut out the trigger. DO NOT CUT OUT THE CENTER SLOT!!!


Test-fit the trigger and catch:


Now, add the barrel parts. The pieces need to be just over ½” wide, as well as ½” away from each other:


Next, add the trigger guide, and the support beam:


Add the second trigger guide:


Connect the 1” long section of particleboard as shown.


Place a bead of hot-glue in the spot pictured:


Here is how the trigger/catch should work:



Glue on the second body panel:


Cut a 1” long section of 1/8” metal round; and notch the ends:


Put the rubber band(s) on and you are done:


You load the darts from the top:


Questions? Comments? Flames?

If you want a good guide on making a hard tank (for the 3k) I made one a while back, here: http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=23221' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>RAD-v1
Just make sure you integrate a bleed valve between the hard tank and the AT3k tank, otherwise all your air will blow out in one shot.

Another thing I didn't mention is that I'm using Mod Man's red FBR. It has a very tight fit in my polyethylene tubing, yet shoots much harder than my thinner grey FBR. Anybody know why? This seems to disprove the hypothesis that air guns like a looser dart fit.

~T da B

At 63psi, dart fit is nothing. Great job, a very clean write-up and mod. I would recommend reinforcing the tank with iamthatcats method. He did a write-up a while back, just search for the topics he has started.

I that case, you will want to apply super glue to the inside of the tubing, about 1/2" down. Once you have done so, clamp the glued end in a vise for a few hours.

Just apply a thin layer of Super glue to the leak. If you want a more flexible seal, use all purpose pvc,ABS,cpvc solvent.

Yes, you're right, SGnerf did do a review. It is a flywheel blaster, similar to the barricade in function. (besides being clip-fed) Here is the review:http://www.sgtoyz.bl...er-review.html' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>SGnerf

Has anyone seen a disk launcher that did not use some sort of "pusher"? Maybe I'm ignorant of what's out there, but the disk guns I've seen either were motorized or used a pusher.

I started to experiment with an air powered disc gun, but quickly realized that making a barrel for the discs was going to be a pain, if not impossible. This difficulty is mostly due to the curved upper edges of the discs, which makes a good disc/barrel seal very hard to achieve.

I suppose you could make a springer which had only a small section of tight fitting barrel material, with the rest of the barrel a looser fit. I believe Nerf has one of the best mechanisms for firing the discs, with one good feature being that you get a mechanical advantage when priming. Their design is also extremely quiet to operate. (no motors) I think that if one was to make a homemade disc launcher, he/she would need to expand on Nerf's design, instead of making a new system. That’s not to say a new design isn't feasible, simply that we should use the good, well-tested technology already available.

I'm a little confused as to what you mean by that.

I think that he means it is annoying to be hit by them all the time because they are so accurate.

On topic: I use a vortex Praxis at all my wars. Of course, it is an indoor war, with no wind or super-long range blasters. I have found that they are not only long-ranged and accurate but also extremely reliable. It may be interesting to note that the higher the power of the blaster, a more level/strait flight path is observed. This may be due to the discs design, which is quite similar to a Frisbee, with the disc basically acting as a wing. So, when the disc is propelled at a higher velocity, it goes further, possibly straighter.

Sure it does. The CA glue forms a harder, slippery plastic coating over the soft, frictiony plastic of the dart head. I wasn't suggesting gluing the darts to something.

In fact, I tried it the other day. I got two T-code Streamlines and coated the tip of one with CA gel (because that's what I have). I then rubbed both of them on my desk and computer. The coated dart slid around easily, while the uncoated one grabbed the surface and bent before sliding.

It may reduce friction with a hard surface, but the effect will be quite small on air. The big problem with putting rock-hard CA glue on dart tips is safety. Even though the dart tip itself is soft, the CA glue will form a shell around it, making it almost as dangerous as plastic tipped darts.

Its worth doing, but not a true solve to the issue, it goes deeper then that. My Praxis will drop the heavier 40 round mag as soon as you prime it, but again on the trigger pull, so I guess it is at least a half fix to the problem.

Your right, it does go deeper. In fact, yesterday, I opened up the gun and was doing some extra modding, when I realized that the clip catch only has about 2 millimeters of surface area that protrudes into the mag-well. There is a nub on each side of the catch piece which can be dremeled off to allow the catch to move further forward. I can post pictures if needed.

I also have had this problem. A good remedy is to use a stronger spring, as Funky said. I used one from a click pen, which had a bit more strength.

It really does, that's why I mentioned it in the write-up!
Yes, I do agree, it's simpler to make... But there's a certain appeal of homemades that stock shells just don't have. You know?
And yes, this can definitely be done to a Raider. I succeeded in retrofitting a Rampage internals into a Raider shell, so I can confidently say that it's possible. Now set forth and make your own "auto-loading" Raider! hahahaha... Can't wait to see your results if you mod one like this.

Oh, whoops, I need to read things more thoroughly before posting. Thanks for the credit! I'm kind of thinking about making one now, of course, I should really finish my direct propulsion blaster first. Again, great job!

EDIT: just realized that this is my 300th post!!!!!

I see, I bet some cpvc would work better then.

I doubt that CPVC would fit in the stock barrels. Although one could cut the original barrels completely off, the clip advancing hardware would be hard to replicate. Brass is probably the best bet, as PETG is most likely too wide.

I have put tiny hot glue holes so it won’t affect the accuracy, but do that and you should be able to tell.

Do you mean burning holes in the foam? As long as the holes don't go all the way through, this should work, as you don't lose any mass from the dart. Quote: "the accuracy" <LOL

Personally I just use sharpie to mark H's in a spiral pattern down the entire dart foam.

This is amazing! It operates similar to my RAD-V1, but is so much simpler/cheaper. Do you think this could be done to a raider? Fantastic job!

Almost - make the front (past the mag) longer. The rubber bands I have here seem to be pretty standard and stretch about 9" (after initially loaded to 3" so they don't move). If your dart is 3" long, you'd mount the mag maybe 1" in from the extreme stretch limit (to get a trigger in there, though if you put the trigger either side of the barrel, you could do it right past the mag), giving you 8" of travel. The problem would be keeping the darts in the mag when charging, which could be dealt with by attaching some kind of bolt or tail to the dart-pusher.

Nice picture/drawing! I can see a few major problems though. In order for the trigger to hold the pencil in place you would have to put a stop behind it. That would make it impossible to pull the trigger. Also, when you cock the gun, a dart ends up behind AND in front of the pencil. I don't think the gun is going to be able to have a clip and range together, one or the other.

I'm thinking that one, but with the mag from the 3rd one. Also, make each lt. blue(?) line a rubber band (except the short line connecting the two pins), for 4 rubber bands on the blaster. The mag could be built-in rather than detachable for ease, and just use a rubber band (or two) to work the follower. The others are overly complex.

Something along this line? (excuse the pun)


The only problem I can see is that the draw/time in contact with the dart, will not be very long at all. Therefore decreasing range. Also, its going to be hard to find a way to load the mag if its built into the gun.

Yep, MDF/hardboard/whatever would require the builder to have power tools. While I think models using those tools would be awesome (and I'm mulling over several designs for such things in my head now), the cardboard versions are super-accessible. Being entirely cardboard, glue, and readily available materials (chipboard, rubber bands, pencils, maybe a few pivot bolts/nails) would be best IMO. Cardboard/paper/chipboard can be surprisingly strong if treated properly, worst-case, just coat/fill the thing with glue.



After reading through the homemade directory and DB's stuff, I was thinking a clip-fed SOCOM-style blaster should be possible. I've also got some thoughts on rubber band placement, but I'm having trouble articulating them - basically, it'd be to put 2 rubber bands per side mounted to studs (run through the front of the blaster) and the charging pencil. If you've got the materials and tools, maybe make a proof-of-concept non-cardboard blaster geared for range and let us know how that goes. I'll try to get to something when I can, but I can't guarantee that it'll be soon, unfortunately.

Okay, so I came up with a few different designs last night and here they are:

The first one works with a system similar to the vortex series blasters:


The second is almost the same as the original pistol but longer and with an easier trigger pull:


The third is a terrible drawing:

I'm no expert, but I believe a k18 or a k11 might do the trick, cut down of course. Again, I am just speaking from experience with similar blasters, and have not actually done this to a longshot.

For prototyping, yes, particle board/MDF/masonite/etc. would probably be easier, but I really like that you made this out of materials that are available basically free, and require tools that everyone either has or can acquire for $20 tops. I like the bungee/rubber band propulsion system, it's so easy and apparently DavidBowie has had pretty good success with it. Maybe build for strength in the long direction so you can get more/stronger rubber bands in there (up to using bungees), but that's all I'd do for the cardboard version.

For wood of any sort, bungees could be used. I'd like to see how accurate these are without a proper 'barrel' compared to a standard SNAP or other homemade.

Yeah, I guess the original intent was to make this accessible to anyone, regardless of skill or age (sort of), so MDF would be harder/more expensive to machine/make. I'm starting to think that the longer the draw, the farther the gun will shoot, simply because the rubber band will have more time to accelerate the dart pusher. I will probably make the next version a bit bigger (to scale with my 1/1 air soft pistol), in order to increase draw. The next version will definitely have at least two rubber bands, maybe three. The biggest problem I can foresee with the completely cardboard version is the dart pusher crushing/ripping the front edge of the slots, which is why I put wood protectors in version 1.

Glad I've helped. I'd recommend using a glue that will saturate the cardboard better (wood or white glue), and bonding large pieces together to get the strongest parts. So you'd take the notepad backers (you can usually buy the stuff in large sheets from craft and office stores, if you ask for "Chipboard" - "mattboard" is basically the same stuff but black/white/colored and more expensive), use a brush or roller to get glue all over the un-coated side, then press two pieces together (rinse & repeat as needed for thickness), and then cut your parts out when everything is dry (preferably with a razer and steel ruler). That should give you a higher-quality finish, and still be dirt cheap and easy for anyone to build.

I was thinking you could use particle board (the 1/4" stuff at lowes) instead of gluing all that cardboard together, that is, if you really want to make the gun fast. It would probably be cheaper, but not as cool. I'm thinking that version 2 is going to be made with the method you just described, although I'm still unsure of what type of dart propulsion system it will utilize. Any ideas?

Heh.

USER WAS BLAND IN THIS POST

WHAT?

Anyways, I will have a firing video up within the next few days.

Very alternative design. I like that it's direct-fire (the pencil/RB actually push the dart out). I bet you could get it to work and be all cardboard, if you mixed types (Chipboard [cereal boxes or notepad backer boards] in addition to the corrugated you're using, and alternating the directions of the corrugations).

I never thought of that! Of course, my original intention was to make it completly out of cardboard, but I only thought of using corrugated board. You have inspired me to make a new pistol, completly out of card booard. (exept for the nails) This time around I'll actually make templates! Thanks!

Wow,
Best sidearm EVER!

haHA, FEEL THE WRATH OF FIFTEEN FEET FLAT!

I like things like this, it's awesomely impractical I'd like to see someone take one of these to a war, because...well, because.

Thanks guys! I think I will take it to my next war. Although I probably won't shoot anyone in normal game types, I might get someone in Hvz's.

Great job this is pretty cool. I do have a few questions though. How do you prime it? From what it looks you pull back the pencil until it catches right? Also I know this sounds ridiculous but could you make templates. I think it would be cool to improve on this.

also, ranges?

Yeah, you prime it by pulling the pencil back past the catch, then letting go. I may make templates, if enough people want them, but the gun is pretty simple to begin with, and you can really make it however you want. Ranges are about 10-15ft flat. Not too bad for a rubber band.

Today I will show you how to make a completely useless, but fun, nerf pistol. It is made mostly out of cardboard, and relies on a rubber band to shoot the dart. I made it over the weekend for fun, and do not plan on using it at a war. (This would be a great project to do with your son, that is, if you‘re a dad)


Parts:
Cardboard
½” thick scrap wood
Click pen spring
Tiny extension spring (I got mine from a printer)
Rubber band
Pencil
A couple 1/8” thick nails

Tools:
Hot glue gun
Razorblade
Scissors
Pencil
Band saw or scroll saw …...I guess you could use a hand saw.



Time to start:
Cut out a bunch of these gun shapes:


Now, cut the trigger out: (I used cutting board but wood would work)


Drill a 1/8” hole in the center and glue the click pen spring the back of the finger-part.


Now make the catch:


Attach the catch and trigger to the gun body. Make sure the edge of the catch just barley overlaps the trigger. Also, add a small scrap of wood in front of the trigger to stop it from moving too far forward.


Glue on the first layer of handle spacers:


Then the next layer:


Finally , the last layer of the handle: make sure to glue the trigger spring to the bottom and top handle spacers.


Glue on the first of the barrel spacers:


Add the next two layers of the barrel:

Make sure a dart fits loosely in the barrel:


Add a piece of cardboard to look like the hammer:


Next, add some support for the trigger stop, and also for the dart:


In another main body piece, poke some holes which line up with the nails for the trigger and the catch:


Cut slots which run almost the entire length of the gun: (they should be wide enough for a pencil)


Glue the second body panel to the rest of the gun:


Cut your pencil until it protrudes about 3/16” from either side of the gun and notch both ends:


Take your rubber band and stretch it over the front and connect it to both ends of the pencil:


Add a couple scraps of wood to the front to keep the pencil from ripping/smashing the cardboard:


Here are a few pictures of the complete gun:

Well, it seems like this was not such a good idea after all! Thanks everyone for your input, and I will not be making this.

Mods: I realize that idea threads are not usually tolerated, but I really need some input as to whether this would be safe/plausible. If you think that this is more suited to the General Nerf section, could you please move it?

Okay, so I came across powder actuated tools a few years ago, and actually own one now. They operate using a cartridge, usually filled with cordite, which is similar to a blank :cough:firearm:cough: round. Here is a link to the wiki page about them: wiki

I am thinking of making a nerf pistol which would use these as the propellant. Does anyone think that this would work? And more importantly, would it be safe? I plan on making the gun mostly out of metal, so it could turn out to be a significant investment. Which is why I need your advice before I build it.

Here is a paint drawing that I made:

Wow! The picture disappeared! Could it be because it was incredibly unsafe, and stupid, and inappropriate to post?

Yes.


Key:

Dark grey-Firing pin
Red-rear cartridge holder
Black-main cartridge holder
Orange-cartridge
Brown-brass tube
Light grey/light green-slug
Sky blue-hammer
Pea green-fasteners/poles
Purple-torsion springs
Dark blue-catch
Pink-trigger movement transfer rod
Burgundy-trigger

Great write-up! I have always wanted one of these simply for the cool-factor. Ranges?

Seeing as the two guns are the same, the poll seems highly unnecessary. It is weird that buzzbee would let air-zone use their gun/shell. Unless, of course, buzzbee owns air-zone.

Snakerbot is probably right, polycarb is very strong, and will not usually break/have hairline cracks. When I cut polycarb, I use a cheap bandsaw from lowes. I find that 15-18 TPI (teeth-per-inch) usually gets the job done pretty smooth.(no pun intended)

Yes they still sell them. Here is a link to Toys Are Us' page:http://www.toysrus.c...ductId=4044448' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>TRU

Is there a way to tell if a motor is brushless from the picture alone?

Well, sort of. The motor in the picture you posted is a pretty standard brushed design. Brushed motors typically have a flattish plastic end cap with leads on either side or the top of the motor.
While brushless motors either have a different end-cap which is thinner because of the absence of brushes(such as the one above), or, the shell of the motor, which has a permanent magnet ring inside, rotates around the stator coil. The second type is typically used in hobby helicopters and other hobby flying devices. Note: I'm not sure if it's called a stator coil in brushless motors, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Is it this one?

I don't think so, mainly because the Taimya plasma dash motors are brushless, and that motor isn't. Here is the one I belive he is talking about:

Here is my afternoon project from today:


Yep, thats cardboard. The gun shoots all of 10 feet.


Writeup coming soon! (and possibly a video, if enough people want to see it shoot)

Here is a writeup that was posted not to long ago that may answer your questions: http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=22776' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>Pump grip
Good luck!