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Cardboard Nerf Pistol!

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#1 hamoidar

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 09:07 PM

Today I will show you how to make a completely useless, but fun, nerf pistol. It is made mostly out of cardboard, and relies on a rubber band to shoot the dart. I made it over the weekend for fun, and do not plan on using it at a war. (This would be a great project to do with your son, that is, if you‘re a dad)


Parts:
Cardboard
½” thick scrap wood
Click pen spring
Tiny extension spring (I got mine from a printer)
Rubber band
Pencil
A couple 1/8” thick nails

Tools:
Hot glue gun
Razorblade
Scissors
Pencil
Band saw or scroll saw …...I guess you could use a hand saw.



Time to start:
Cut out a bunch of these gun shapes:
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Now, cut the trigger out: (I used cutting board but wood would work)
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Drill a 1/8” hole in the center and glue the click pen spring the back of the finger-part.
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Now make the catch:
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Attach the catch and trigger to the gun body. Make sure the edge of the catch just barley overlaps the trigger. Also, add a small scrap of wood in front of the trigger to stop it from moving too far forward.
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Glue on the first layer of handle spacers:
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Then the next layer:
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Finally , the last layer of the handle: make sure to glue the trigger spring to the bottom and top handle spacers.
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Glue on the first of the barrel spacers:
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Add the next two layers of the barrel:
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Make sure a dart fits loosely in the barrel:
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Add a piece of cardboard to look like the hammer:
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Next, add some support for the trigger stop, and also for the dart:
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In another main body piece, poke some holes which line up with the nails for the trigger and the catch:
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Cut slots which run almost the entire length of the gun: (they should be wide enough for a pencil)
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Glue the second body panel to the rest of the gun:
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Cut your pencil until it protrudes about 3/16” from either side of the gun and notch both ends:
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Take your rubber band and stretch it over the front and connect it to both ends of the pencil:
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Add a couple scraps of wood to the front to keep the pencil from ripping/smashing the cardboard:
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Here are a few pictures of the complete gun:
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#2 quertyman

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 10:34 PM

Great job this is pretty cool. I do have a few questions though. How do you prime it? From what it looks you pull back the pencil until it catches right? Also I know this sounds ridiculous but could you make templates. I think it would be cool to improve on this.

also, ranges?
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#3 hamoidar

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 11:15 PM

Great job this is pretty cool. I do have a few questions though. How do you prime it? From what it looks you pull back the pencil until it catches right? Also I know this sounds ridiculous but could you make templates. I think it would be cool to improve on this.

also, ranges?

Yeah, you prime it by pulling the pencil back past the catch, then letting go. I may make templates, if enough people want them, but the gun is pretty simple to begin with, and you can really make it however you want. Ranges are about 10-15ft flat. Not too bad for a rubber band. :P
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#4 Mully

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 11:35 PM

Wow,
Best sidearm EVER!

haHA, FEEL THE WRATH OF TEN FEET FLAT!

ALL the people's shall COWER before the awesome wrath of CARDBOARD!!


Mully:)

Edited by Mully, 25 October 2012 - 12:50 PM.

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#5 abowden

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 01:51 AM

I like things like this, it's awesomely impractical :lol: I'd like to see someone take one of these to a war, because...well, because.
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#6 hamoidar

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 09:35 AM

Wow,
Best sidearm EVER!

haHA, FEEL THE WRATH OF FIFTEEN FEET FLAT!



I like things like this, it's awesomely impractical :lol: I'd like to see someone take one of these to a war, because...well, because.

Thanks guys! I think I will take it to my next war. Although I probably won't shoot anyone in normal game types, I might get someone in Hvz's.
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#7 Meaker VI

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 11:29 AM

Very alternative design. I like that it's direct-fire (the pencil/RB actually push the dart out). I bet you could get it to work and be all cardboard, if you mixed types (Chipboard [cereal boxes or notepad backer boards] in addition to the corrugated you're using, and alternating the directions of the corrugations).
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#8 hamoidar

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 11:35 AM

Very alternative design. I like that it's direct-fire (the pencil/RB actually push the dart out). I bet you could get it to work and be all cardboard, if you mixed types (Chipboard [cereal boxes or notepad backer boards] in addition to the corrugated you're using, and alternating the directions of the corrugations).

I never thought of that! Of course, my original intention was to make it completly out of cardboard, but I only thought of using corrugated board. You have inspired me to make a new pistol, completly out of card booard. (exept for the nails) This time around I'll actually make templates! Thanks!
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#9 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 01:56 PM

Heh.

USER WAS BLAND IN THIS POST

Edited by Langley, 24 October 2012 - 02:11 PM.

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#10 hamoidar

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 02:55 PM

Heh.

USER WAS BLAND IN THIS POST

WHAT?

Anyways, I will have a firing video up within the next few days.
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#11 Meaker VI

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 03:47 PM

I never thought of that! Of course, my original intention was to make it completly out of cardboard, but I only thought of using corrugated board. You have inspired me to make a new pistol, completly out of card booard. (exept for the nails) This time around I'll actually make templates! Thanks!


Glad I've helped. I'd recommend using a glue that will saturate the cardboard better (wood or white glue), and bonding large pieces together to get the strongest parts. So you'd take the notepad backers (you can usually buy the stuff in large sheets from craft and office stores, if you ask for "Chipboard" - "mattboard" is basically the same stuff but black/white/colored and more expensive), use a brush or roller to get glue all over the un-coated side, then press two pieces together (rinse & repeat as needed for thickness), and then cut your parts out when everything is dry (preferably with a razer and steel ruler). That should give you a higher-quality finish, and still be dirt cheap and easy for anyone to build.
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#12 hamoidar

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 03:55 PM

Glad I've helped. I'd recommend using a glue that will saturate the cardboard better (wood or white glue), and bonding large pieces together to get the strongest parts. So you'd take the notepad backers (you can usually buy the stuff in large sheets from craft and office stores, if you ask for "Chipboard" - "mattboard" is basically the same stuff but black/white/colored and more expensive), use a brush or roller to get glue all over the un-coated side, then press two pieces together (rinse & repeat as needed for thickness), and then cut your parts out when everything is dry (preferably with a razer and steel ruler). That should give you a higher-quality finish, and still be dirt cheap and easy for anyone to build.

I was thinking you could use particle board (the 1/4" stuff at lowes) instead of gluing all that cardboard together, that is, if you really want to make the gun fast. It would probably be cheaper, but not as cool. I'm thinking that version 2 is going to be made with the method you just described, although I'm still unsure of what type of dart propulsion system it will utilize. Any ideas?
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#13 Carbon

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 04:01 PM

Back when the earth was green, davidbowie had a whole series of guns based off the direct propulsion model (his KISS series). Check them out, they may give you some ideas.
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#14 Meaker VI

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 05:12 PM

I was thinking you could use particle board (the 1/4" stuff at lowes) instead of gluing all that cardboard together, that is, if you really want to make the gun fast. It would probably be cheaper, but not as cool. I'm thinking that version 2 is going to be made with the method you just described, although I'm still unsure of what type of dart propulsion system it will utilize. Any ideas?


For prototyping, yes, particle board/MDF/masonite/etc. would probably be easier, but I really like that you made this out of materials that are available basically free, and require tools that everyone either has or can acquire for $20 tops. I like the bungee/rubber band propulsion system, it's so easy and apparently DavidBowie has had pretty good success with it. Maybe build for strength in the long direction so you can get more/stronger rubber bands in there (up to using bungees), but that's all I'd do for the cardboard version.

For wood of any sort, bungees could be used. I'd like to see how accurate these are without a proper 'barrel' compared to a standard SNAP or other homemade.

Back when the earth was green, davidbowie had a whole series of guns based off the direct propulsion model (his KISS series). Check them out, they may give you some ideas.


Just looked through those and man, is there a reason I don't remember those taking off with anyone? The things are super-simple to build, can be clip fed easily, are dirt cheap, and can fire anything. Range sounds respectable for NIC pistol-use, and would be excellent for HvZ. I suppose accuracy might suffer, but better quality construction could fix that [edit] to some extent.[/edit]

Edited by Meaker VI, 24 October 2012 - 05:13 PM.

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#15 hamoidar

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 07:57 PM

For prototyping, yes, particle board/MDF/masonite/etc. would probably be easier, but I really like that you made this out of materials that are available basically free, and require tools that everyone either has or can acquire for $20 tops. I like the bungee/rubber band propulsion system, it's so easy and apparently DavidBowie has had pretty good success with it. Maybe build for strength in the long direction so you can get more/stronger rubber bands in there (up to using bungees), but that's all I'd do for the cardboard version.

For wood of any sort, bungees could be used. I'd like to see how accurate these are without a proper 'barrel' compared to a standard SNAP or other homemade.

Yeah, I guess the original intent was to make this accessible to anyone, regardless of skill or age (sort of), so MDF would be harder/more expensive to machine/make. I'm starting to think that the longer the draw, the farther the gun will shoot, simply because the rubber band will have more time to accelerate the dart pusher. I will probably make the next version a bit bigger (to scale with my 1/1 air soft pistol), in order to increase draw. The next version will definitely have at least two rubber bands, maybe three. The biggest problem I can foresee with the completely cardboard version is the dart pusher crushing/ripping the front edge of the slots, which is why I put wood protectors in version 1.
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#16 Phoenix66

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 09:58 PM

This is like Innovation at it's finest.
Like Hillbilly Homemade Nerf guns.
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#17 Carbon

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 10:33 PM

Just looked through those and man, is there a reason I don't remember those taking off with anyone? The things are super-simple to build, can be clip fed easily, are dirt cheap, and can fire anything. Range sounds respectable for NIC pistol-use, and would be excellent for HvZ. I suppose accuracy might suffer, but better quality construction could fix that [edit] to some extent.[/edit]

I think it was because they were just un-nerf-like to get overlooked. After all, when db was first posting them, they were for these interesting paper darts that he made...they were only later converted over to use with stefans. Anyway, direct propulsion has always been sort of looked down upon. But Hamoidar's design shows that they're cheap and simple to make. Perhaps it's time to revisit the system.
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#18 Goldie

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 11:57 PM

I want one...now.

Think you can make a bigger one? Even if it still only shoots 10 feet a 3 foot long one would be bad-ass/a great shits and giggles blaster.

Edited by Goldie, 24 October 2012 - 11:58 PM.

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#19 Exo

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 01:55 AM

I want one...now.

Think you can make a bigger one? Even if it still only shoots 10 feet a 3 foot long one would be bad-ass/a great shits and giggles blaster.

If it's 3 feet long, you could have a 2.5' draw. It doesn't have to be like a party popper, it does work a lot like a bow.
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#20 Meaker VI

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 11:23 AM

Yeah, I guess the original intent was to make this accessible to anyone, regardless of skill or age (sort of), so MDF would be harder/more expensive to machine/make. ...The biggest problem I can foresee with the completely cardboard version is the dart pusher crushing/ripping the front edge of the slots, which is why I put wood protectors in version 1.


Yep, MDF/hardboard/whatever would require the builder to have power tools. While I think models using those tools would be awesome (and I'm mulling over several designs for such things in my head now), the cardboard versions are super-accessible. Being entirely cardboard, glue, and readily available materials (chipboard, rubber bands, pencils, maybe a few pivot bolts/nails) would be best IMO. Cardboard/paper/chipboard can be surprisingly strong if treated properly, worst-case, just coat/fill the thing with glue.

I'm starting to think that the longer the draw, the farther the gun will shoot, simply because the rubber band will have more time to accelerate the dart pusher. ... The next version will definitely have at least two rubber bands, maybe three.


After reading through the homemade directory and DB's stuff, I was thinking a clip-fed SOCOM-style blaster should be possible. I've also got some thoughts on rubber band placement, but I'm having trouble articulating them - basically, it'd be to put 2 rubber bands per side mounted to studs (run through the front of the blaster) and the charging pencil. If you've got the materials and tools, maybe make a proof-of-concept non-cardboard blaster geared for range and let us know how that goes. I'll try to get to something when I can, but I can't guarantee that it'll be soon, unfortunately.

I think it was because they were just un-nerf-like to get overlooked. After all, when db was first posting them, they were for these interesting paper darts that he made...they were only later converted over to use with stefans. Anyway, direct propulsion has always been sort of looked down upon. But Hamoidar's design shows that they're cheap and simple to make. Perhaps it's time to revisit the system.


I know I've been guilty of looking down on direct-fire blasters, but really the power transfer makes more sense this way - you're not compressing air and then launching the dart, you're just launching the dart. There should be higher efficiency in doing that, though I suppose dart destruction is a risk. Someone recently [Edit: It was Obiwontwo on Nrev] said something about 'taking a step sideways' in NERF technology development, I think this may be a part of that step.

Edited by Meaker VI, 25 October 2012 - 02:09 PM.

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#21 hamoidar

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 03:20 PM

Yep, MDF/hardboard/whatever would require the builder to have power tools. While I think models using those tools would be awesome (and I'm mulling over several designs for such things in my head now), the cardboard versions are super-accessible. Being entirely cardboard, glue, and readily available materials (chipboard, rubber bands, pencils, maybe a few pivot bolts/nails) would be best IMO. Cardboard/paper/chipboard can be surprisingly strong if treated properly, worst-case, just coat/fill the thing with glue.



After reading through the homemade directory and DB's stuff, I was thinking a clip-fed SOCOM-style blaster should be possible. I've also got some thoughts on rubber band placement, but I'm having trouble articulating them - basically, it'd be to put 2 rubber bands per side mounted to studs (run through the front of the blaster) and the charging pencil. If you've got the materials and tools, maybe make a proof-of-concept non-cardboard blaster geared for range and let us know how that goes. I'll try to get to something when I can, but I can't guarantee that it'll be soon, unfortunately.


Okay, so I came up with a few different designs last night and here they are:

The first one works with a system similar to the vortex series blasters:
Posted Image

The second is almost the same as the original pistol but longer and with an easier trigger pull:
Posted Image

The third is a terrible drawing:
Posted Image

Edited by hamoidar, 02 November 2012 - 02:28 PM.

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#22 Meaker VI

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 03:53 PM

The second is almost the same as the original pistol but longer and with an easier trigger pull:
*snip*


I'm thinking that one, but with the mag from the 3rd one. Also, make each lt. blue(?) line a rubber band (except the short line connecting the two pins), for 4 rubber bands on the blaster. The mag could be built-in rather than detachable for ease, and just use a rubber band (or two) to work the follower. The others are overly complex.
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#23 hamoidar

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 04:11 PM

I'm thinking that one, but with the mag from the 3rd one. Also, make each lt. blue(?) line a rubber band (except the short line connecting the two pins), for 4 rubber bands on the blaster. The mag could be built-in rather than detachable for ease, and just use a rubber band (or two) to work the follower. The others are overly complex.


Something along this line? (excuse the pun)
Posted Image

The only problem I can see is that the draw/time in contact with the dart, will not be very long at all. Therefore decreasing range. Also, its going to be hard to find a way to load the mag if its built into the gun.

Edited by hamoidar, 25 October 2012 - 04:11 PM.

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#24 Meaker VI

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 05:14 PM

Something along this line? (excuse the pun)
*SNIP*
The only problem I can see is that the draw/time in contact with the dart, will not be very long at all. Therefore decreasing range. Also, its going to be hard to find a way to load the mag if its built into the gun.


Almost - make the front (past the mag) longer. The rubber bands I have here seem to be pretty standard and stretch about 9" (after initially loaded to 3" so they don't move). If your dart is 3" long, you'd mount the mag maybe 1" in from the extreme stretch limit (to get a trigger in there, though if you put the trigger either side of the barrel, you could do it right past the mag), giving you 8" of travel. The problem would be keeping the darts in the mag when charging, which could be dealt with by attaching some kind of bolt or tail to the dart-pusher.

[Edit] Something like this:
Posted Image
Sorry about the dim lines - red is firing, yellow is charged, dashed is barrel[/edit]

Edited by Meaker VI, 25 October 2012 - 05:17 PM.

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#25 hamoidar

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 05:42 PM

Almost - make the front (past the mag) longer. The rubber bands I have here seem to be pretty standard and stretch about 9" (after initially loaded to 3" so they don't move). If your dart is 3" long, you'd mount the mag maybe 1" in from the extreme stretch limit (to get a trigger in there, though if you put the trigger either side of the barrel, you could do it right past the mag), giving you 8" of travel. The problem would be keeping the darts in the mag when charging, which could be dealt with by attaching some kind of bolt or tail to the dart-pusher.


Nice picture/drawing! I can see a few major problems though. In order for the trigger to hold the pencil in place you would have to put a stop behind it. That would make it impossible to pull the trigger. :( Also, when you cock the gun, a dart ends up behind AND in front of the pencil. I don't think the gun is going to be able to have a clip and range together, one or the other.
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