Bear in mind that a hopper, like an RSCB or all other tube-feeding repeaters, incurs some dead space. Your blaster's air output must exceed the volume of that dead space, plus the volume of the barrel, in order to fire a dart. In addition, some air will be lost as the next dart seats itself in the barrel. This is why hoppers don't work well with smaller blasters like pistols.

I've never seen a hopper work with a NF, PistolSplat, 2K, or L+L. I have used an LpL with a three-round hopper successfully, so if you really need that hoppy goodness, there's still hope.

Why do you use two O-rings? It seems like the one furthest from the tank could be eliminated, and the friction reduced, if you capped the PVC pipe.

Don't worry, there's always Lanard.

I love it!

Unfortunately, the solder tabs aren't replaceable. You need a new Hellcat...

 

I'll admit that I broke a motor the same way. You can add some strain relief with a dab of E6000 or Goop after you solder the wires to make this less likely...

I have a feeling Sculpey would work... try doing the same thing with Sculpey, put the whole shebang in the freezer to solidify the clay, give it a few whacks to release the pieces, bake them, and glue them in.

I love the feeling of a hefty blaster. Nice idea.

Aww! Look at that cute little anvil! Where can I get one of those?

Sights can come in handy if you can't aim down the barrel. I can't aim my Super Soaker Iron Man without the optics:
http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=20068


If you really want to be tacticool, airguns have less recoil and barrel climb than springers and will work better with scopes. You probably won't hit anything beyond 50 feet anyways, regardless of what's duct-taped to your gun.

Edit: GAH! Accidental necro!

Voted Hammershot, but Maverick wins because you can play Russian Roulette.

Hook an oscilloscope up across the phototransistor, run the motor full blast, and check out the amplitudes.

It's possible that the peak output voltage of the phototransistor isn't going over the microcontroller's minimum logic high voltage. If that's the case, you'll need to bias the transistor or amplify it with a fast transistor or logic buffer.

The opposite problem is possible too - at speed, the minimum output voltage might be too high to register as a logic low! If that's the case, you can use black paint or aluminum tape to block ambient light, and add a current-limiting resistor to dim the LED.

The important part is to use a scope and see the characteristics of the signal.

For now I will say: in OD it was like normal PVC the NIC has been using for ages, but it's ID doesn't fit megas, it fits micros, so 1/2" I recall it saying thick-wall on it, it was grey and near the electrical stuff.

It's Schedule 80 electrical conduit. Here's a link to the same stuff in 2" (The 1/2" isn't on Lowe's site).
EDIT: Split beat me to it.

All right, a war a week before I'm back at college! Looking forward to getting one more war under my belt before classes!

I should be able to show!

Yeah man, they make you invisible, and when you're invisible, no one can hit you! It's standard issue around here. I recommend one if you are going to go to any NIC war.

Just bear in mind that a brand-new ghillie suit has a generic camouflage. Remember to add leaves, branches, and other local flora from the war location before starting combat.

Sounds good to me. Sign me up. The Stevens Crew (5+) might show as well, but we won't know that until the date gets closer.

EDIT: Depends if my parents replace the car my brother decided to crash. Gears, is there a train station or something nearby?

I'll probably be able to make it. I'll ask the Stevens crew if they're interested.

Are FVJ's ok? I don't think I'll be able to get Koosh darts in time.

This was one of the most challenging wars I've ever fought. The brutal weather tested our endurance, broke our blasters, and buried our staging area. 

 

Thanks to Aeromech for running a tight war. He finessed some tense situations with park security and a news reporter, and even gave us bagels and bologna. Downtime between rounds was short - maybe too short, with all the N-strike mags that needed reloading.

 

It was ridiculously cold. Anyone without layers of outerwear and heavy gloves froze to death. In irony blyat, Sentinel Master Race cyka destroyed by Russian winter, blin. Many Sentinels were lost today. Our brave comrades were rearmed by Van - your service to Republic will be remembered.

 

The cold destroyed lots of blasters. My Sceptor leaked, homemades lost their seals, 3D-printed parts fractured, flywheels slipped. Even tactical gear and duct tape failed.

 

My new Rapidstrike was a beast. It handled the snow like a champ and mulched my opponents. The only real issue was that the cold weather made my LiPo's voltage drop, and the blaster thought it was out of charge and disabled itself. Worse, Van's Frankenblaster outranged it and he ate my lunch again and again. Damn you Van!

 

My gray Drats (not darts, drats) were basically invisible in the snow. Not only couldn't I confirm hits, I lost like 150 of them.

 

Thanks to everyone who helped make this a great war, helped shlep my huge loadout, and helped get my goddamn Centurion out of my apartment.

 

Also, ice froze into my beard and made me look like a manly-man. Here's what the girlfriend thought.

 

No, it was actually in the snow, I have it, just remind me before the next war. It's a little worn out from being in the melting snow for two days though.

 

Woooooooooo!!

 

You should come to the next NYCNO. Everyone should. 

Did someone take my bayonet home with them? I can't find it in my gear.

I may not be able to get there because of snow.

It shouldn't start snowing until 10 or 11. Get moving earlier and you should be OK.

 

BONUS! Here's my gear for the war, minus the Sceptor that's down for repairs.

I'm running the "Biotic" Sceptor from last time, as well as my new Rapidstrike superstock project.

 

Hopefully some of you bring superstock too, so I can get some fair testing!

I'm taking an Uber to the war from NYC's West Village. Anyone want to split a fare?

I have some leftover parts from my Rapidstrike mod. PM MEEEE if you'd like me to bring any of them to the war for trade or sale:

• MTB Rhino motors
• MTB Honey Badger motors
• Worker Stryfe extended mag release lever
• Worker Rapidstrike extended pusher arm (new in package)
• Worker serrated flywheels (new in package)
• 3D printed ABS Rapidstrike extended mag release lever
• 3D printed PLA JSPB3D C5 sights
• 3D printed PLA GoPro tactical rail mount
• Modulus collapsible foregrip
• 0.75" aluminum pipe (drop-in replacement for rifled false barrels)
• 16ga silicone wire
• RFID tags (about 1" circles, as thick as a credit card, formatted NDEF)
• A stock Centurion (w/ 7 darts)

I'm looking for Sledgefire shells, Recon ladder sights, 22-round Worker mags, a one-point sling, Accustrike darts, Koosh darts, a stock Sentinel, and the Modulus bayonet knife.

 

EDIT: Added subtle emphasis to the "PM me" part

The blaster belongs to Skitzo, who will presumably jump over my fence and directly into my window to claim it.

Please don't post in this topic. Admins, please close this thread, thanks.

Someone at BCNO left behind a nice, heavily-modded NiteFinder. PETG barrel, sanded handle, amputated rail, Luger'd with holes covered in cardboard, gets absurd ranges.

If it's yours, PM me and I'll either hand it off at GnomeFest or ship it to you.

The battery cap is painted a distinct color. When you contact me to claim the blaster, please tell me this color so I know you're the real owner.

The problem with that approach is that in an "afterburner" setup with multiple flywheel cages, the first stage should spin at a far lower speed than the second stage. Too slowly, in fact, to fire a dart.

In other words, your barrel extension won't be optional at all!

 

So what if, the first stage of motors were something fairly weak and as the motors went on they got to something like 180s

 

That would work fine, but it will seriously complicate the build for a minor benefit. The blaster would be almost worthless without the extension.

 

I've been told that Rayvens and Rapidstrikes are good candidates for afterburners because of well-placed dead space in the shells.

 

If you're considering building an afterburner into a barrel extension, you're basically forced to use a Hyperfire or Stryfe because their flywheel cages are directly connected to the barrel extension adapter.

If someone can let me crash at their place, I can go and bring up a few north-NJ Nerfers. If anyone's willing to lend a couch or put up gas money, say the word.

I can't come on the 14th, but I'm available on the 7th...

Nice model. If I can get some printer time at the hackerspace, I'll run one off in ABS, 100% infill, and report back.

Cool mod and hilarious write-up. The whole SSPB-Blast-Button-Mini-Blaster is a cool idea and might start showing up in other mods.

I'd like to know why you implemented the multi-part barrel with nested brass and O-rings instead of just a fixed or coupled barrel. Seems like a lot of work if the thing vacuum-loads anyways.

Looks super-slick. Nice painting, carbon-fibering, and shooping!

My only question is, why such a short barrel?

BTW, if this is anything like his last JSPB, the trigger pushes on a PVC check valve to open it up for a split second, and pushing it briefly has a semi-auto effect.

This isn't really anything new or groundbreaking... it's been done on the 8-way Big Salvo, the Arachnophobia Pistols, and pretty much anyone who has a double RSCB, etc.

Backseat modding: Read the CoC, edit your grammar, and beg forgiveness. Today's forecast: Partly cloudy, with a chance of banning.

Kevinerecon broke news of the Longstrike, Deploy, Flip Clip, AND the Element Action Kit. What's your source?

Kevinerecon or another Chinese speaker, could you translate the text in the Deploy page for us? I'm sure there's more information we can tease out.

I found a listing on a Chinese[?] auction site for the Deploy. More pics and angles, check that out.

I'll be the first one to say it - this thing looks nothing like a fucking flashlight.

EDIT: Cool aperture sight in the handle. Didn't notice it at first.

I don't think Nerfers will voluntarily cripple their dart speed - personally, I take enemies out at very long ranges. I'm also not a fan of Slug darts - I find that they fall apart, don't feed well in RSCB's, and scratch the insides of my barrels.

Regardless, it might be a good idea to increase your sample size and provide standard deviation, etc. so we can drag some more insights out of this.

On another note, we really need a standard test for accuracy.

Some speculation:
You might be able to remove the glued-on barrel using pipe cutters, like removing the restrictors from a Longshot.
If you put a hole through the rear cocking portion right behind the white plunger tab, you might be able to band the plunger.

This really does look like the spiritual successor to the NiteFinder. It's got the barrel with a hole under it, the small N-Strike rail, and two dart holders. I wouldn't be surprised to see this sold separately from the set.

It's good to see Nerf evolving the designs a bit. They're making them more mature, better suited for office warfare etc. I wonder if the new styling cues will carry outside the Dart Tag series.

I’m interested to see results, but It might be awkward to carry both a backpack tank AND a car battery while running with the flag

He's not planning on making an actual spinning barrel (At least, I hope he isn't). He's just seeing if causing a dart to spin has any effect whatsoever. There's no point ripping your hair out trying to cut helices in CPVC if the spinning won't do anything.

Also, that's one serious rig, and it's also technically a blaster. You should paint it brown and make it look like a platypus.

On behalf of the UMD Nerf Activity Society, I'm proud to invite you to the king of all indoor wars, Dart of War IV: Home is Where the Dart Is! It's an all-day all-out nerf war in the craziest building at UMD. Bring your blasters, bring your friends and get ready for the most amazing day of your life.

The guys running this war are not NH members. In addition to RSVP'ing here, please do the same at the Facebook event: http://www.facebook....23008168&ref=ts

IN A NUTSHELL: An intense indoor war in the sprawling Art/Soc building at UMD. Venue features 4+ stories of narrow corridors, wide halls, doors to barricade, a working freight elevator, ambush-ready stairs, and enough chest-high walls to get Marcus Fenix hard.

DATE AND TIME: Sunday, July 10, 9:30 AM - 7:30 PM.

LOCATION: University of Maryland Art-Sociology (Art/Soc) Building. GPS [38.985250, -76.947588]. Travel north on Adelphi and take a right onto Campus Drive. Free parking available.

ATTENDENCE:

• 50+ UMD students
• Dizzy
• Split
• bpso (mebbe)
• DX (mebbe)

GAMES:

• 2-Team 3:15
• 4-Man-Team 3:15
• Flash HvZ
• VIP and Double VIP
• CTF

BRING:

• At least one blaster (READ THE RULES FIRST!)
• Streamlines, Slugs, or missiles. Leave the slingshot darts at home.
• A BuzzBee sword or soft boffer for melee
• Lunch and dinner. Restaurants on campus are far from the building.
• Eye protection. If you're thinking sunglasses, remember this is an indoor war.
• Flagging tape and/or bandanna if you have them
• Deodorant

RULES:

• Blasters MUST be eye-rapingly colored or have an orange tip. This is strictly enforced srs bsns.
• Sign the waiver when you get there. Again, srs bsns.
• Barrel tapping is not permitted.
• Melee may not be used on staircases.
• Non-padded darts are not permitted. Gumdrop darts will be tested on site if you have them.
• Koosh balls and balled-up CLEAN socks are legal projectiles.
• Trash cans, doors, and other objects may not be moved without express permission from the organizers!
• Participate in dart sweeps! Return darts to the pit in the atrium.
• Do not enter classrooms or offices. These are off-limits to all players at all times.
• Flashlights are allowed, but don't shine them in people's eyes.

BLASTER GUIDELINES:

• Range limit is 100ft. If you feel you're being hit too hard, tell a moderator.
• Anything over 65ft is overkill.
• High-ROF blasters and blowguns are highly recommended - you'll clean house with an AR-removed Recon.
• Melee weapons and sheaths are HIGHLY recommended, especially for HvZ.
• The majority of darts are salvaged. If you mark yours, you'll get many of them back.

BANNED EQUIPMENT:

• Fists, feet, elbows, knees, or any other part of your body used as a means of attack
• Unpadded swords
• Paintball blasters and airsoft blasters
• Bayonets (any kind of foam melee taped to a blaster)
• Foam swords fixed to one's arm or body (for example, no Wolverine claws)
• Armor and shields of any kind
• Darts designed or modified to inflict pain (complaints will be investigated)
• The Nerf Big Bad Titan, and unmodified Nerf swords, such as the Nerf N-Strike Sword, the Nerf Axe, or the Nerf Longsword.
• Unwashed socks (we're serious)
• Any blaster without a bright orange tip
• Dark or metallic painted blasters
• Artificial propulsion - Skateboards, heelys, horses, jetpacks, etc.