Issues resolved: Hornet sliding valves have more inputs than are needed for one tank, and sliding the O-rings past any of the extras will vent your reservoir. Those extra inputs are also waiting to chew up your o-rings.
Benefits: O-rings only traverse one hole. Extra brass on the venting end will turn your valve into a piston that will push back on a trigger (as discovered by Boot), or maybe open a bolt sled (a hint at what I've been working on). It looks simpler and cleaner, and unless something breaks, a seal fails, or you push your piston through the cross section, you can't vent your reservoir.

I hate to say this, but I'm going to have to protest this.

In your current setup, your fighting against the pressure of the reserve tank. In cheesy's mod, he had o rings on both sides of the reservoir's input. This is the same basic concept zero invented. This eliminates all the pressure against the trigger. Although you say it's manageable, it can be a hell of a lot better.

The extra inputs on a hornet valve don't hurt the o rings in any way. In fact, the sharp thin edge of the brass is more likely to damage your o rings then the hornet. This doesn't vent your reservoir either, which is why there are two o rings instead of just one.

If you really want a "semi-auto valve", I'd suggest just using a hornet trigger valve. If you are unable to get your hands on one, then I suggest atomatron's valve. Using cpvc is a hell of a lot easier then dremeling and soldering brass. But thats just my 2 cents.

Looks kinda awkward to fire.
How strong do you think the gun is overall?
Does it need reinforcing?
Good job

Well, I am looking just to cut off useless crap like a longshot bipod, or cut the front off of a vulcan.

You do realize that you can simply unscrew the front of the vulcan off right?

Incredible, it looks like a Raider.

Streamlines are a very loose fit in 9/16th. Especially once they have worn down after a few shoots. You're going to need to put tightening rings on the barrel, or even a small (around 2") segment of 17/32" in the back. You should get much better ranges.

oh, and on that last pic- it would help if you had a clip in.

Streamlines are a very loose fit in 9/16th. Especially once they have worn down after a few shoots. You're going to need to put tightening rings on the barrel, or even a small (around 2") segment of 17/32" in the back. You should get much better ranges.

oh, and on that last pic- it would help if you had a clip in.

It was supposed to be loose because I still have the dart tooth in. I still might try the 17/32 though just for shits and giggles.

...Yeah, I know I forgot the clip. It was intended to be a joke...You do know who Mr. Bill is, right?

oh... Seriously, just Angel breech it, or do this. The dart tooth serves no help with a segment of 9/16th. I'm surprised your even getting 50's with your current setup. And forget what I previously said, I didn't realize you still had the dart tooth in.

Go here for more help with your LS.

And yes, I know who Mr. Bill is.

Streamlines are a very loose fit in 9/16th. Especially once they have worn down after a few shoots. You're going to need to put tightening rings on the barrel, or even a small (around 2") segment of 17/32" in the back. You should get much better ranges.

oh, and on that last pic- it would help if you had a clip in.

It was supposed to be loose because I still have the dart tooth in. I still might try the 17/32 though just for shits and giggles.

...Yeah, I know I forgot the clip. It was intended to be a joke...You do know who Mr. Bill is, right?

oh... Seriously, just Angel breech it, or do this. The dart tooth serves no help with a segment of 9/16th. I'm surprised your even getting 50's with your current setup. And forget what I previously said, I didn't realize you still had the dart tooth in.

Go here for more help with your LS.

And yes, I know who Mr. Bill is.

-12" (ish) section of 1/2" thinwall PETG from visipak. I used the thinwall, which is very loose on streamlines. This is a plus since the seal between the breech and the barrel isn't perfect, but it still adds exponential range over the stock ls barrel.

The mod you recommended is nearly the exact same thing that I did, except it doesn't telescope. I'm sorry if I come off as rude here, but do you even know what the fuck you're talking about? The PETG in his mod is very loose on streamlines, just like my 9/16''. I don't want an angel breech for this ls because I can't make stefans for shit, it's less durable than the stock breech, and it's almost 30 dollars in brass. Not to mention the $75 dollars or sheer time to have/make a modded drum mag.

My longshot shot the same if not less distance even without my barrel, so don't go assuming that my barrel setup is retarding the dart. The only thing that I wanted from my barrel was to make my darts more accurate, because really, just when in the hell are you going to shoot someone over 75+ feet away with a longshot?

Sorry if that seemed offensive, I didn't intend it to be.

Telescoping does nothing, you do know that right? Only the 9/16th is improving the accuracy.

Angel Breeches aren't just for stefans, they can work with cut down streamlines also. And, modded raider drums arn't that hard to make, you just need the necesary materials and time. Nor are superclips, which hold ~12-13 darts. I can make a angel breech in under a few hours, and it would cost me ~$10 for all the brass. And it is durable. I've had one for close to a year with only a few minor wears n' tears. And I treat my guns like shit during wars.

Who said you had to use Petg? whats wrong with brass?

Btw, the stock barrel overlaped the Petg to create a nice seal. Not perfect, but still much better than yours.

I ment to post thiswriteup instead btw. Though theres nothing wrong with bpso's mod. just use brass instead of aluminum.

Edit: I'm sorry if I've come across.. cross. I didn't mean to "get on his back". I simply was annoyed and let the worst of me, get to me. I've just had a long day today, and I'm just in a bad mood. Sorry.

If I'm wrong correct me. Don't bitch to me. And theres no need to repeat one's point nerfman.

School- Sucks up all my time.

Paintball- Go out with my friends alot, theres a nice place down in boston, Its pretty cheap there.

iPod and iPhone tweaking/hacking/modding- I've made one or two themes so far, hoping to finish my latest soon. I mostly do delnoch themes.

Modding computers/game systems- I just recently started this. I'm in the middle of modding a Psp 1k.

Xbox- I love my 360, but I really suck at just about every game.

Thats about it.

Talio, what did I tell you about feeding the members?

I have no idea what you said, but this was needed. More than I had originally thought.

Hmm... Interesting little project.

I'd suggest removeing the auto rotation mech, and concentrate on the "tank to turret" seal.

Interested to see how this will end.

TantumBull did an excellent wright up on his N-strike Clipped Pas. A good portion of it was dedicated to his Clip Compatible - Breech. If i were you, I would incorporate that breech into your NF. I would also have used the search feature instead of starting a whole new topic.

Edit: Never mind

Why not just tape a flashlight to the side of the recon, no need to be a jerk but it sounds a lot easier.

By doing this it makes it removable, While also adaptable to many other guns that have rails. Another thing to consider is neatness/Paint Job.

My advise: grow some balls and fix the 5k tank, or put a 4B tank in there instead. There's no point for an oversized singled 2k.

http://nerfhaven.com...topic=16792&hl=

May as well add to the madness. Not much of a directory, but close enough.
I don't think this is worthy of being sticked, but I may be wrong.

I'm from MA. Where about are you from?

ABS cement. PVC cement will work too, but ABS is more powerful.

Instead of just sitting on top of the two pieces like most glues, cement will melt them together. It all depends on how there broken.

This quote was by Just Some Bob from another topic like this one which was closed.

Where's the FOAM?

Read This and remember it.

This is a example of what happens when n00bs post topics identical to this.

You spent a good 30 minutes ranting on about how you desperately want to attend a nerf war, but your old folks won't let you. Have we not given you a clear enough answer on the IRC? Your good! Just don't go around waving your gun in peoples faces.

What about the trains website? I'm sure it must give a lengthy description of their policy. Jesus Christ, Think next time.

Buy a gun. Go to the Nerfhaven Modification Directory or use the Search form. Find your gun. Choose a mod. And do it.

the only mod that I consider easy enough to do for a newb is an air restrictor removal.

If he said that he can modify a NF in his sleep, then I think he has already done that.

so I wish you luck in your journey.

ForsakenAngel08

Seriously?

I use a full Arrowstorm spring. A bit hard to fit in, but does the trick.

I would love to attend, however, my primary broke recently, so I might look into buying a new one...

I can always lend you something if need be.

1)Freezing and elbow grease are what I'd use. To not damage your O-ring just take it off before putting it in the freezer.
2)It should be if you can super glue it together again. I'd use Locktite; they're a very strong reliable brand.
3)I'd super glue the brass together. That will keep it from sliding up into the black piece again.

Also your pics are fine.

1. I can't take off the O-ring.


The only way I can remove the O-ring is if I removed the epoxy and re-epoxy it on.

2. Ok
3. I originally did that. I guess I'll do it again.

Thanks for all the advice.

I think if you got your hands on another one of those black peices, try sanding the inside with 100 grit sandpaper. That will make it the slightest bit thinner. What i'm thinking, is the 19/32 is hurting the plastic peice and stretching it, but good luck with this anyways.

So by making the plastic thiner it will make it stronger? I think your thinking is a bit off. But thanks anyways.

Over the Winter I was playing around with my LS when suddenly it wouldn't cock. I pulled the bolt all the way back and it just wouldn't catch. Upon a investigation, I found this to be the culprit.


It's a little hard too see...



As you can see the 19/32" Brass and all the other brass tubes managed to slide under the black piece and through the hot glue. I pulled and pulled the best I could, with friends and vices but it just wouldn't come off. I was planning on freezing the piece then try yanking it out but I was worried about the O-ring cracking then just falling off.

And so...

I have three questions.

1. How the hell should I go about fixing this?
2. Is the black piece reusable?
3. How do I go about preventing this (At the time I was using a stock LS and BBB spring)?

Thanks

BTW, This is my first time using Photobucket. I scaled the pics down 50%. Let me know if there still to big.

Thanks, but one more thing, do plastic bb's provide enough wait?

I have found these for a very decent price.
http://www.dicksspor...oductId=2278966

I am wondering if those work and provided enough wait

Try these

Yeah, nerfing up here died a few years ago. We had really small monthly wars going for a little while, but that was like 5-10 people. Salem state college also used to hold a few indoor wars every year in the winter, but i haven't heard anything from sky or wes in awhile.

I'd love to see some local wars pop up again and I'd be happy to contribute. I know a few old nerfers that i could hit up on facebook that live nearby. Give me a location and I'll see what i can do.

This was where we had most of our wars. Its a pretty good place, but it was too much of a commute for a few people. We tried relocating somewhere an hour south in MA (like Beverly or something), but that just never happened.

I don't know where you guys are exactly and how far your willing to commute, so give me feedback if that's too far for you guys.

I'm glad you posted this. I've always hated the trigger on my 1500, I find it's difficult to aim with such a hard trigger pull. I really wish the previous owner didn't cut the spring off.

One thing you left out is the Supermaxx cam mech (and at4k/supertech). I've always loved these mechanisms. They do make the trigger pull a bit awkward, but I find they make a incredible range difference. My SS Sm500 gets 110' easy compared to others with the pen mod. Although, I fear that this mechanism is the culprit for broken firing pins. The springs they use are very powerful and are stopped only by the firing pin. Stock 5k's are notorious for broken firing pins. However, every tank relocated 5k has never had this problem. In my 500, I added a stopper at the end to cushion the pin. I've run over 300 shots through it, and it still works perfect.

Wes and I have been trying to schedule a war for a few months now, but we've all been very busy.

Yarmouth is far too north for many of New England nerfers to travel. I suggest we hold this at the usual place, or maybe even a local place near me.

As far as dates go, I can't really do much in the next two weeks due to my dad recovering from his recent trip to the hospital. I might be able to do something during labor day weekend.

I'll hit up some of the usual's and see what works for them

That's got to be the understatement of the year.

Okay, If it's not pumping, then either the pump is broken in some way, or there is a leak somewhere in the gun. Wildfires have fairly weak bladders, and they'll pop easilly.
I don't know how fragile the piston (what I believe you are referring to) is, but it's not possible that something like that would break under normal circumstances.

And all in all, it's only three bucks, so it's not like you killed a Stampede or a Longshot.

Rf20 and Wildfire pistons aren't that complicated, It's the kind of thing you need to actually see in person to understand.

Trust me, the bladder didn't burst. It actually takes a lot to pop them. However, the plastic piece that secures the bladder is VERY weak. Most wildfires break because of this. I'd be surprised if you had one intact. Don't worry, it's an easy fix. All you need is a hose clamp. The only other possible problem would be the the trigger or the check valve in the pump, but I doubt that.

Rf20's have been known to have faulty pistons on occasion, but I've never seen one on a wildfire. Usually it's just a problem straight out of the box. I can't really tell by your description whether or not there's an issue. If it really moves "loosely", then you may have a crack in the shell.

You won't really know before you open it up, from there you should be able to figure it out yourself.

I trying turning on the automatic switch on my Vulcan and nothing happened, so i took it apart and everything looked to be in place. Any other possible problem's i could be having?

Most likely a wire broke off, or some minor issue. Although, pictures would help.

For about twelve years now, I've been going to my local Airport to see something pretty cool. A B17, B24 and a P51 take a nonstop tour, all around the US. The Collings Foundation owns all these Planes along with a massive collection of WW1, WW2, Korean War and Vietnam War Aircraft. The Collings Foundation is located in Stow, MA; New Smyrna Beach , FL; Houston, TX. Along with these Aircraft, the founder, Rob Collings, also owns many old and new cars too.

For a complete list of Aircraft, Click here

For a complete list of Cars, Click here

For more info about this tour, click here.

And then some pictures of the planes...




This has always been a big part of my life and I thought that you too might enjoy this. Thanks