Alright, that's it. It's about time I got a few of these. Seems like an awesome thing to have in a time of need. I will most definitely be getting one of these in the near future.

Slug, I've been meaning to ask you though, I like your use of it on your shotgun, and I'd do the same on mine, but is that not awkward to prime with that mounted there? It looks like it'd be tough to get a good grip without fear of ripping the spiderman thing off.

Are they still as easy to find on clearance as you mentioned in that thread?

Im the proud owner of one of these beauties...lemme just say...they're rediculous.

Very nice. I can't wait to see the integration. Definitely go with the Marvelous Salvo system. However, when you do it, leave the salvo barrels shortish. Due to the fact that the main gun itself has excellent range already, you don't need it out of the savos, and giving them shorter barrels should decrease reload time, translating to a better ROF. Anyway, nice mod, I need to start experimenting with some SNAP designs. They seem to be very veritile units, and could lead to some unique projects... *He said, using insane amounts of foreshadowing*

EDIT- Did I read wrong, or are you really planning on drilling holes in the plunger tube? I couldn't tell if you were kidding or not.

I was saying if the gun was to powerful for the war I would drill small holes to lower the range

I guess you could just plug them up again with hot glue...just be careful where you drill them. Be sure to drill them towards the end of the plunger tube near the coupler so that any roughness generated by the holes along the intereor of the plunger tube won't interfere with lunger travel

Very nice. I can't wait to see the integration. Definitely go with the Marvelous Salvo system. However, when you do it, leave the salvo barrels shortish. Due to the fact that the main gun itself has excellent range already, you don't need it out of the savos, and giving them shorter barrels should decrease reload time, translating to a better ROF. Anyway, nice mod, I need to start experimenting with some SNAP designs. They seem to be very veritile units, and could lead to some unique projects... *He said, using insane amounts of foreshadowing*

EDIT- Did I read wrong, or are you really planning on drilling holes in the plunger tube? I couldn't tell if you were kidding or not.

Hmm...cool. That sliding wedge trigger is interesting. I won't say anything about shorter being better for fear of the jokes that would ensue, but you get the point. However, there are a couple things that worry me. Most importantly, anything that's fastened with glue... No matter how secure you think that the trigger is, that the clothespin is, or that the roofing nail is, it's likely to let you down sometime. I'm not sure how you could work it out with your design, but mechanical fastening is always better. See here:


That trigger will never fail, ever. Like I said, I'm not sure how you could work something out with your design, and I understand why you've chosen to go with it. However, this is something you may want to consider. This blaster is only 2" longer than yours:

(With a barrel in the hopper that's the same length as yours)

Another quick note, but this is really just personal preference. You may benefit from developing some sort of sheath for your blaster that will cover up the priming slide as you prime the blaster so that it won't slice up your cheek as you prime.

Again, I like what you've done to improve the length issue with the initial design. I'm curious, what kind of draw are you getting? I may have missed it in the initial read-through...

I broke the boltsled somehow. It is broken right where the boltsled turns upward to connect to the bolt.
Like THIS:


........======++=====
........======++=====
....................++
....................++
Broke here-> +++++++++++++++

The + means the boltsled, the = means the bolt.

Any ideas on how to fix this?

EDIT: Sorry, I can't find my SD card converter (I am using a cell phone to take pictures.)

Regardless of how you repair it, it's not going to be returned to the strength that it once was. Your best bet is to buy another bolt sled from someone (PM me, I could help you out with that), and re-enforce it like Tantum bull did in his writeup that he posted earlier.

But where the hell is your ST9k?

Yeah merz, where the hell is your ST9k? I want to see that beauty on the field.

I have a feeling that, if used correctly, this could be a heck of a gun in action. Like balisticjoe said though, I don't think it would sufice as a standalone primary except maybe for indoor wars. You never know though, if used well it could be pretty effective. I'm interested to see the video. Overall though, cool idea. I've been trying to find a way to do something like this to my reactor. I never thought of a clip out the top though. I've mainly been focusing on an inline design within the ball shooter. I'll have to try this out though.

1. A single barrel is always gonna be slower.. No matter how well you can practice, and get it down to a science, in an actual war, your speed will be about double that. Adrenaline will be pumping, you will be running, being shot at, and looking around. It will take you almost twice as long, simply because of the nature of Nerf.

2. Breeches are faster, because you don't have to stick another tool down your barrel after every shot.

3. A cheaper alternative is a speed loader. Its two barrels taped together.

1. That makes sense.

2. Your fingers are far more valueable though.

3. How does a "speed-loader" work with a singled gun?

2. yes they are, but if you have a well constructed breech, chances are, unless you're just dumb, you're not going to cut your finger off. And no, that's not an insult to anyone who did that to themselves. Basically, what I mean is, if you're paying attention, you won't have that sort of problem.

3. You use a CPVC or PVC coupler on a blaster. Then you attach two barrels together, staggered, so that one extends past the other. Then, you load the darts in the extended sides, facing away, and flip it, loading either side into the coupler.

God that came out to be really confusing.

1. Who chopped their finger off with a breech?

2. Breeches made with the intent to chamber darts don't harm people unless they use them incorrectly.

1. I am searching. I know I saw it a while ago though.

2. The gun's catch can fail.

So you're specifically talking about singled longshots. I cannot think of any other "breech"like system that puts your fingers in danger if the catch of the gun fails.

Here are those templates Diamondback was talking about.

Download Here.

And here are the nylon spacers he used, 94639A301.

Thanks for puttin' them up, man. Keep in mind, guys, you can also pick up the spacers needed at your local hardware store, most likely. They're pretty easy to find.


^Pic with the stock I put on this morn', as well as a million dart hopper and barrel.

The screws securing the stock are all internal and super duper duper sturdy.

Well, I think you're right on that one. There are just so many people using SNAPs that you can't count them. I wasn't originally wanting to build a homemade, but now I really want to build a SNAP, or a rainbow.

Snaps are homemades idiot. They are just a different type.

Great mechanism Stark and friends. I like the simplicity and sleek design.

Woah, woah, woah, un-bunch your panties there, kiddo. It's rather clear that lionhawk understands that SNAPs are homemade blasters, but just wanted to comment that to him, they don't, apparently, have the originality that he sees in "homemades"

As for the Rainbow, I'm a huge fan of this new catch setup and intent to impliment it on many further blasters. One thing that may help to align the catch plates in opaque PVC is to take two pieces of a size PVC that fits within your plunger tube, measure them out appropriately for the dead-space on either side of the proposed catch position, and squeeze the catch between the two in order to align it right where you want it. Overall though, fantastic design, and I'm sure it'll contribute to many future designs.

I figured I'd post this here as well as the Homemade pictures thread, being that it's relevant.

So, my work for the day, the Rainbow Rev 2:

Keep in mind, I did not make/design the original Rainbow, so I really can't make this the official "Rev 2," but many improvements have been made between this and the original version. One of which, as you can see, is the use of a new style of handle, the same kind that Ryan developed for use on his RBP, which is super sturdy and mad comfy. It also looks damn good.

The plunger head is also of his design used for the RBP, which works wonderfully. Another very notable change is the design for the catch that I devised...which uses two 6-32 1/4" OD Nylon spacers on each of the screws to provide a perfect spacing between the two circles, eliminating lopsidedness, amongst other issues. Also, rather than tap both sets of holes, only the front set is tapped, which allows the screw to properly pull the assembly tight together, as opposed to tapping both holes, in which case the threads are spread at whatever distance you start screwing the screw in at. It's difficult to explain, but basically this way is much better:

Ryan put together the templates for the new catches, being that the holes needed to be farther towards the outside of the circles in order to accommodate the nylon spacers as well as the sliding catch piece. I'm sure he'll post the templates up when he feels like it.

I also added a couple holes along the top portion of the blaster, drilled and tapped, which will be used to outfit the blaster with a super-sleek shoulder stock, pictures of which I am sure will be up tomorrow. Here are the holes drilled in:


This beauty is already outfitted for a hopper, and will be sportin' an integration and a stock ASAP, as you gents will see. By the way, the seal is perfect, and it has a [k26] spring in it, so I can only assume it shoots mad far.

No reason to ADD a check valve.

If you're sure you won't ever want vacuum loading, put a notch or two in the plunger head, just like airgun pumps have. The o-rings will then form a check-valve directly.

The only problem with this is that there are two o-rings, so there is no room for them to slide along the plunger head giving the effect that it has on pumps in air guns.

They don't necessarily need to slide. As long as the front o-ring doesn't seal properly against the notches, it should work.

Rokor, have you considered just vacuum loading it?

Oh, ok. I wasn't quite sure of the system with that. I thought the purpose was that when you pushed in, the o-ring slid to the full side (without the notches) and sealed it, and then when you pulled, it slid to the side with them, and it didn't allow for a good seal. Then yeah, this idea would work really well. I may even do that in mine.

No reason to ADD a check valve.

If you're sure you won't ever want vacuum loading, put a notch or two in the plunger head, just like airgun pumps have. The o-rings will then form a check-valve directly.

The only problem with this is that there are two o-rings, so there is no room for them to slide along the plunger head giving the effect that it has on pumps in air guns.

Did you do anything to increase the seal from the plunger head-plunger tube?

I left the plunger head seal alone since it already had the two stock o-rings(Is this normal or was I just lucky?)

I would prefer to not have to worry about cocking it before I stick in the dart, just because it is easier that way. If that is what I must resort to, then I will, but I would like to work a little harder to get what I had intended.

Nope, they're all like that. It's a well made stock blaster. Far more well made than the RFSG.

Your darts must be extremely tight in your barrel for them to not vaccum into the gun while priming with the barrel on. What dart/barrel material combo are you using?

rokor: top, the bottom will ruin your gun

diamond: You're actually partially right. In a nerf pump, there is actually a ridge, so when pumping, the o-ring is pushed up the ridge and pressed against the tube. When retracting the pump it moves the other way and the diameter gets thinner, so when the o-ring hits the notches it still won't be able to hold a perfect seal aggainst the tube.

Basically a culmination of what we're saying. I think it may work without the slant, just not as effectively.

I had remembered something involving the ridge that you're talking about. I was always curious how it applied. I understand now, alright. I think this would actually be pretty cool in the pas, it would solve vaccum loading problems.

Did you do anything to increase the seal from the plunger head-plunger tube?

Thanks for all the help guys. Should I cut the notches on the top or bottom of the plunger head?

I would think top, but don't take my word for it. My logic behind it is that if you have them on the front, when you pull it back, the o-ring would move to the front, or would create the bad seal at the front, and when you fired, the pressure would be towards the back, intact portion of the plunger head. Similar to how a pump works. The notches are on the front end.

I am using PETG with grey foam, perfect fit. I am using a peice of 5/8 behind the coupler with a peice of 1/2 inside of that, so basically there is a peice of barrel that goes inside of the 9/16 and a peice that goes outside. The 1/2 prevent that dart from vaccuming into the plunger, and that is where I think the problem is. I am going to try puting a small peice of coat hanger inside(but level with) the 1/2, I hope that will prevent the dart from going slightly inside the 1/2and making air in-accesable from entering.

You're better off with one of these two options:
A. Use a speedloader like Rambo said and don't prime with a dart loaded. It's easy to get used to and is effective.
or
B. Change your stopped system so that when you push the PVC into the coupler, the back of the dart touches the stopped. Make the stopper crossing coat hangers, or something of the sort, so that like you said, it does not suck back and seal the 1/2" That is where your problem lies. The dart is vacuuming back and covering/squeezing into the end of the 1/2" making it impossible for air to get around it.

Just add a check valve to your coupler. Air gets in, but won't go out. Right now you are just creating a vaccum in your plunger tube with your air tight seal.

Wow, that's a really good idea. I'm surprised I've never seen this done. It's like Tantum said; drill a hole. Except the check valve serves the purpose of covering it with your finger when you fire. I really like this idea.

[quote name='undercoverishowiroll' date='May 2 2009, 11:19 PM' post='227763']
[quote name='PointBlank' date='May 2 2009, 07:58 PM' post='227753']
What weight were you using? Also, what kind of barrel were you using? If you were using stock, that's where the problem is, cpvc barrels are much better for ranges.
[/quote
Yes, I was using a stock barrel, but a 25 ft difference over a barrel. I don't think so. For my weight I use airsoft bbs.
[/quote]

Airsoft BB's are too light, and the stock barrel isn't going to do the job. What do you have for a spring? How's your seal? Anything else you can share would help greatly.

1. Use stefans. You will get better ranges.
2. Do a barrel replacement.
3. Uin13 was newer then. Something tells me that he exadurated those ranges a bit. 80' Flat out of a nitefinder is quite hard to achieve. You'd need a very powerful replacement spring, PETG barrel, and appropriately fitting stefans, perfect seal, possibly even a mini-bungie or rubber bands.

EDIT-Nevermind, froot covered it fine.

Just finishing mine up, where did you buy thin wall 1.5" pvc?

I'm not quite sure where the OP got his, but you can purchase it online at flexpvc.com. I've also heard that you can find it at some Home Depots, I believe.

Also, this thing looks really cool. I love SNAPs in any form, and I'm really happy with this one. As sturdy as you say the grip and priming handle are, they'll always worry me...I'm a big fan of mechanical fastening...but I could imagine the glue there does just fine. Overally, supa awesome. I approve.

Hey...I got a crazy idea: how about you stop all that sigging stuff? It's not even my thread and it annoys me.

added that hilarious quote to my signature, while playing with my butthole.

Anyway, 'cause Talio scares me. I dig it, rork. A little too much wood for my taste, I like the familiarity of just using CPVC particularly for the plunger rod. Looks a lot like Fome's design. Once we get settled back here, I'll probably fool with some pump action designs I've been tossing around in my head and share. I've always wondered though, since I first saw the design when Fome posted it, how sturdy is the 90 between the priming bars and the rear plate with the hole through it to accommodate the plunger rod?

I actually really like this. Though it'd be banned at every war imaginable, it's pretty cool, and a shotgun attachment would both increase legality and make it pretty useful. It was funny, actually, I was just joking about making my mom a gun, and she said she wanted a gun where she didn't have to run around the whole time. So I told her I'd make her a titan "looser" rifle, so she can sit up on the deck and just pick us off . Anyway, nice mod, I'm impressed. I like the breech and the detachable stock.

EDIT- Forgot the cheesy Chuck Norris joke. Chuck Norris' tears cure cancer. Too bad Chuck Norris never cries.

Holy crap! loser. losing.

EDIT: for a minute there, I thought the filter was gone. Wonder why it didn't edit Homestarune's post...

Huh?

Any words that involve sn1p1ng and the like are edited automatically by a filter, but in Homestarune's post, the word wasn't edited.

Yeah, that happened in another thread, but nobody realized it. I can't remember which it was. eat shit, loser, losing, sniped, eat shit, eat shit, eat shit.

EDIT- Damn, the filter holds strong. Except for sniped, that made it through. But still, has anyone ever heard of the "eat shit" filter? That made me laugh for a long time. I just typed "sn1per" a ton of times, and from the second time on, it became that. Also, like I said before, again, great mod. If I do this mod for fun though, I'll probably use a different style shoulder stock. Still using the PVC fittings, just a different shape. The breech looks cool too.

If anything, do make it that Sunday, at least. Holding the wars on the same day will reduce your number of attendees (including myself).

Just a quick question. Has anyone ever used this on a +bow before? Or on anything, for that matter? I have, and it seems rather thick, and I'm not sure if it's hindering performance or not, or will in the future. If someone has used it or has any input, help would be greatly appreceated. It does not specify that it is a "Silicon Grease" or "Lithium Grease."

Here's the pic:

No, you are gonna buy the PAS, mod it well, then do a simple barrel mod on the tanks then put the salvo on the PAS

Then, using the Marvelous Salvo system, you put the SMDTG trigger right within reach of your thumb of the hand you fire the gun with, and use an unplugged pump hooked up to the pump action of the main gun. Then, whenever you prime the PAS, it'll add a pump to the Salvos. This way, you don't even need to think about pumping it. Then if you need it quickly, prime the PAS once, and pump multiple times. The benefit of leaving the pump unplugged is: A. No need to worry about overpumping and needing to discharge the Salvos once you prime the PAS too many times, and B. It keeps it legal in Mag 7 hosted wars. After all that's done, like everyone above me has said, you've got yourself a beast of a primary.

Just wondering where did you get your camping foam from and could you post a pic of the packaging?
And how did the gun bear with the "Battlefield conditions"?

I think I can answer these:
1. From an old camping matress he had around I believe? Correct me if I'm wrong.
2. Well. The test shots with my darts we estimated at 120 were shot after the war.

I have some pictures on my dad's camera that I'll get up whenever he gets a chance to give them to me. I've been bugging Echnalaid for the ones he took, but he hasn't put them up yet.

Mine's been done for a while now, just haven't taken the time to get pics up. It was up in my modding service thread, just not here yet. Again, I love having a breech on this thing. It's so much more practical than the speedloader. One thing I noticed at the recent war we went to is that flipping the speedloader while running wasn't exactly fun. This solves that:

Adorned with a little ducktape knife for close combat situations when I don't have a barrel loaded...same reason why pearson's manual rotating turreted one has the knife in the middle of it.

Rangewise, I'm hitting around 120-125ish flat on a windy day, going into/side on to the wind. It was also a bit chilly. I could squeeze 130 out of it on a nicer day.

Yes! Man, I've been waiting for you to do a writeup on this. Looking good. And by the way, I can vouch for this thing's ranges/effectiveness in a war, as I was there for both. Rangewise, it's hitting 120-130 with my washer/felt tip stefans, and it was a force to be reconned with at BCNO. Unless I skipped over it, you didn't mention the function of the fishing line...that was one of my favorite parts. Keeps the breech from coming out to far. Anyway, nice writeup. Clear, concise, and doesn't get too into detail on the basic parts of PAS writeups (Spring, seal, cushion, trigger spring, etc.). I'm currently working on my variation of this, so I'll post it up in this thread once it's done. Again, nice mod.

Good mod but you don't need it. At BCNO you didn't even need a secondary. Now a need to hide.

It could prove more useful at faster paced wars though. Personally, I stayed up offensively more often with my SNAP, even while reloading, and found the backup shot to prove quite useful, even if it just kept people from wanting to rush me and I didn't even have to use it. It was there incase.

Finally. Been waiting for this to pop up on the boards tonight. Nicely done. Like you had mentioned today though, you may want to put some more support for that pump against the shell, so it doesn't break by flexing up or down. I like this placement of the blast button better than on the back though. Seems very comfortable. I can't wait to see a pic with everything installed.

And the inevitable question, although it's not really essential to have excellent ranges from a backup shot, what're you hitting?

Yeah, also, as Pointblank said, you may want to watch the durability of both the chamber and the tubing.

One question, why would you want to shoot someone with balls?

Ball rounds, zombies, etc.

Nice mod, tantum, looks simple and effective. I may have to try this, seeing as I have two roto-rockets laying around. I'm interested to see ranges as well.

And I'm surprised nobody has asked this yet: what's that black gun in the side of the last picture? Next project?

EDIT- Heh, or you can go with flyingchicken's explination on the ball shooters.

I give up. Fuck it.

Don't let the idiots get to you. You actually did imply it right from the beginning.

Yeah, don't just kill your own thread for the sake of people who can't even read the first post. I don't practice it in any form, but I do think it'd be kinda cool if someone all of a sudden pulled an example of it mid-war. Yes, the location would need to be right, and yes, if it began to become too frequent, it would take the fun out of a war, but it would definitely increase one's stamina and agillity, which would be a great benefit in a war. So yes, I think that the effects of it would apply greatly in a war, but not exactly the stunts/movements themselves.

I now can not make it

Have a great war though.

Same. See you all at Apoc.