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Snapbow Mk. V

Rail system on Page 2!

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#1 rork

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 12:41 AM

I used pics from a few different builds, so just pay attention.

SNAPbow Mk. V.

Materials Needed:
Main Blaster Body:
1’ 1 Ό” sched. 40 pvc
6” Ύ” sched. 40 pvc
1”x½” bushing

Handle/Stock:

#8x1 ½” screws (2)
1x2 Poplar board (or the handle material of your choice)
Ύ” poplar (or matching) dowel
½” pvc tee OR elbow
½” pvc 45

Trigger:

Industrial-strength clothespin
Roofing nail
4” zip ties (2)
8” zip tie
1 ½ “ angle bracket

Plunger Assembly:

Superlative plunger head (http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=18314)
1 1/2" cpvc endcap
2 11/4" OD steel fender washers
1 appropriately sized nylon spacer (look at the photo)
1 #6 11/4" bolt
1 11/4" rubber fender washer
1 11/2" rubber fender washer
1 #8 finishing washer
1 #6 wing nut

1’ of ½” cpvc
½” cpvc T
Ύ” pvc endcap
[k25] OR Plusbow spring

Adhesives, screws, and so on:

Epoxy Putty
CA glue/Solvent weld
Goop
Hot glue
#6 ½” pan head sheet metal screws.

Main Body:

Wrap your 1” bushing in etape until it fits reasonably snugly in the pressure chamber (PC hereafter). Slather it with goop and seat it. Anchor it with 3 screws. Cut your Ύ” pvc like so, grind it to fit your zip tie, and glue it along the top of the PC. I like hot glue followed by goop, but epoxy would also do fine. Drill a hole 3 Ό” from the rear of the PC for your trigger pin (4” if you’re using a plusbow spring). Wrap your Ύ” endcap in a bit of tape, slide it into the PC until it’s pretty much flush, and drill a hole in each side. These screws will be how you disassemble the gun.
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This photo doesn't feature the groove/zip tie, but you get the idea.
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Trigger Assembly: Cut your clothespin down, fill with epoxy putty, drill, and assemble--pretty basic stuff. Make sure the pin is cut long enough; the superlative head fit’s the PC more loosely than does a traditionally made SNAP head, and a too-short pin is an invitation to catch slippage. Zip-tie the trigger on. No glue is necessary, although gooping it on is fine too. Fit a bit of cpvc over the angle bracket, or glue a block/randomly selected bit of flotsam to the handle to prevent overtravel.
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Make your superlative plunger head. Mount on your plunger shaft, using 2 screws or a pin. Add your spring, drill out your Ύ” endcap, and add your handle. Lubricate with silicone grease, and nothing but silicone grease. Assemble, add a barrel, and shoot people.
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Handle and Stock:

Pretty self-explanatory. Make your handle, Carbon-style. You’ll need to grind/gut a groove for the screw heads to fit into. Pop it on, lift it up, and glue it down with high-guality CA glue/solvent weld. Super, super solid. Also a major pain in the ass to get off if your handle fails, so make sure your handle is built properly. Conversely, you can anchor it with 4-5 screws as shown
It will just take longer to disassemble.The handle should be butted against the back of the trigger, holding the trigger in place.
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Cut a dowel to the proper length for your stock, bulking it out as needed with etape. Add fittings as shown and screw it down.
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Plunger Assembly:


Maintenance: Re-lube infrequently. Pull the plunger and wipe it down occasionally, to remove any accumulated grime. I recommend priming by holding the foregrip in your non-dominant hand, and pulling back with your dominant hand. Use a long, tight barrel--I use 16” of cpvc, lubricated with silicone spray.

Edited by rork, 05 March 2010 - 10:03 PM.

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<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20296" target="_blank">SNAPbow Mk. V</a>
<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>

#2 HOTH

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 12:46 AM

Just keeps getting sexier. I love these guns. Nice work.
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#3 nerfer9

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 12:52 AM

That stock looks very uncomfortable and not very sturdy, what is your opinion on it?
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#4 rork

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 01:06 AM

HOTH: Thanks!

N9: It's very comfortable. It's extremely sturdy. You're full of it.

Edited by rork, 03 March 2010 - 01:06 AM.

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<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>

#5 catmods

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 01:16 AM

I finally undestand how clothespin triggers work, thanks. Where do you get rubber washers, my Lowes sucks. And wouldnt it be better to use 2" pvc, 2 feet long with dual [k26]? It would be overkill, but it would be awesome.
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#6 rork

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 01:23 AM

This is already overkill. I get washers at Lowes. I'm sure Home Depot or Ace would have them as well. With mine, which uses a [k25], I have 7 1/2" of plunger stroke. 2" PVC is extremely annoying to work with.
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#7 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 02:21 PM

They make 1/2"x1-1/4" slip reducing bushings and 1-1/4" plugs (like and endcap, but fits inside rather than over). I guess if you can't find them then the etape method works too.

Also, since I don't really follow SNAP designs very much, what's new here?
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#8 MindWarrior

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 02:57 PM

How much does this cost, and how much more does it cost to make a more?
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QUOTE(Ryan201821 @ Jan 2 2010, 03:20 PM) View Post

Seriously, no penis pumps or dildos on your Nerf blasters.

REVOLUTION BABY!

#9 diamondbacknf1626

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 04:19 PM

Im the proud owner of one of these beauties...lemme just say...they're rediculous.
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QUOTE(TxNerfer @ Nov 13 2010, 12:42 PM) View Post

Hey...I got a crazy idea: how about you stop all that sigging stuff? It's not even my thread and it annoys me.

#10 rork

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 04:39 PM

Zorn: nesting everything inside the plunger tube is stronger, seals better, preserves the lines of the blaster for integrations, is lighter, and is significantly cheaper than using couplers. I also wanted to use universally available parts. I switched to an endcap for the back just because it is cheaper and a bit easier to work with. The modular trigger design is all new, it's built around my superlative plunger head and Carbon's new handle, and the stock mount is all new and extremely effective.

Mindwarrior, it would be about $40-50 to buy everything. They end up costing way less if, like me, you have a good parts bin.

Diamondback: thanks!
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<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>

#11 soccerbeast003

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 04:49 PM

Does this one get more range than Mk.4?
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#12 rork

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 04:50 PM

Yes. The new plunger head has quite a bit less friction, I believe, than a PVC head. Either way, it consistently shoots 100'+, over a tape, with slug darts.
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#13 Stud Muffins

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 06:54 PM

I'm gonna have to make one after I pay lucian. Very nice work. It's good to see a clean looking SNAP.
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#14 minsc

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 04:30 PM

Nice, you seem to have these down to a science at this point.

Zorn: nesting everything inside the plunger tube is stronger, seals better, preserves the lines of the blaster for integrations, is lighter, and is significantly cheaper than using couplers. I also wanted to use universally available parts. I switched to an endcap for the back just because it is cheaper.


My only concern with this, and the reason I didn't do it on my homemade, is with durability. I don't get how using electrical tape and rubbery goop can be stronger than a designed to fit pvc fitting. I don't really know how much electrical tape you have to use to get a good fit, but I feel like there's always going to be a little wobble, especially with heavy CPVC barrels.

Also, have you given up on using PEX pipe for the plunger? It does get a little annoying because it moves around when the gun is primed.
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QUOTE(Zorn's Lemma @ Jul 25 2010, 12:18 AM) View Post

You'll do a lot better if you spread the lips with the front. Trying to wriggle the back in there first seems a bit counterintuitive.

RSCBow

#15 rork

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 04:50 PM

The end bushing has no wiggle whatsoever. The goop is just to seal it. The screws hold it in place extremely securely. I have had plunger tubes using a coupler fail due to having to use an adhesive.
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#16 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 06:53 PM

What I was suggesting is that they make PVC fittings design to fit on the inside so that you don't have to mess around with e-tape by buying the correct size parts. But I suppose they might be difficult to find or expensive.
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#17 rork

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 07:38 PM

What I was suggesting is that they make PVC fittings design to fit on the inside so that you don't have to mess around with e-tape by buying the correct size parts. But I suppose they might be difficult to find or expensive.


That would work great, but I have never seen them, ever.
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<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>

#18 Vincent

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 08:37 PM

What I was suggesting is that they make PVC fittings design to fit on the inside so that you don't have to mess around with e-tape by buying the correct size parts. But I suppose they might be difficult to find or expensive.


That would work great, but I have never seen them, ever.

Here's one. Is this the type you meant?
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QUOTE(Carbon @ Jul 14 2009, 07:50 PM) View Post

Heresy. Nothing beats pink flamingos.


#19 Carbon

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 10:41 PM

The larger size is called "spigot" to indicate that it slips inside (nominal sch40) pipe, and the smaller size is "slip" since it surrounds that size pipe like any slip fitting.

Spigot fittings are sized as the same OD as PVC: they glue into other fittings, not pipe.
(Image from this link
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And by the way....really, really nice work, rork. Great job streamlining the design, and just overall improving it.

Edited by Carbon, 04 March 2010 - 10:44 PM.

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#20 MindWarrior

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 11:21 PM

Are the ranges comparable to a +bow? I'm guessing withing a 1o ft difference

Edited by MindWarrior, 04 March 2010 - 11:21 PM.

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QUOTE(Ryan201821 @ Jan 2 2010, 03:20 PM) View Post

Seriously, no penis pumps or dildos on your Nerf blasters.

REVOLUTION BABY!

#21 rork

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 12:14 AM

Carbon: Thanks! It really is sleek for a SNAP, and incredibly rugged.

Mindwarrior: yeah, with slug darts, it's pretty much identical. With heavier darts, I'm sure the +bow would have the edge, not that it matters, since I use slugs exclusively.
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<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>

#22 Fome

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 05:47 AM

I am absolutely floored at how good and clean this looks. Great job.

#23 rork

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 04:25 PM

Thanks! I am working on a writeup for an absurdly easy rail system for this thing, so stay tuned...
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#24 rork

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 10:01 PM

Legit Double Post:

I decided that SNAPs need an effective modular integration system that is as simple and rugged as the gun itself. I was inspired by Carbon's handle design.

Start with a length of 1/2" PVC. Glue it on with your adhesive of choice. The large amount of contact area means that the glue joint will be very strong.
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Grind out the center ring of a 1/2" coupler. Remove a section comprising 1/4 of the coupler. Mount it on the accessory you're adding. If you use screws, grind out a section of the rail piece for the heads to rest in.
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Add the accessory. Anchor it with screws.
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With this system, if you can attach a 1/2" coupler to it, you can mount it on your SNAPbow and remove it whenever you want. it's also perfectly possible to add more rails on the sides/top, making complex snap-on/off integrations a true possibility, even cleanly integrated, removable pumps and airguns.
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#25 Kabigon

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 10:05 PM

That is absolutely amazing! I wish I had half the skill you had. Anyways, this makes me want to go out and build a simple ball valve gun.
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QUOTE(Tannman500 @ Aug 14 2008, 08:17 PM) View Post

CDdts r great u new to nerf if u dont know how to make them
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