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Snapbow Mk. V

Rail system on Page 2!

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#26 MindWarrior

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 10:25 PM

Holy crap, That is cool, simple and cheap to add, are you planning on using the intergration brackets for anything in particular?
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#27 rork

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 10:47 PM

I may put a triple barreled Jobar under there at some point. :lol:
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#28 Merzlin

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 12:01 AM

Instead of messing a ton of time with the 1/2" PVC coupler, you could use a segment of 3/4" PVC.

Also, nice idea. I might try it with the couple stormfire handles I appear to have.

Edited by Merzlin, 06 March 2010 - 12:02 AM.

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#29 Carbon

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 09:24 AM

Start with a length of 1/2" PVC. Glue it on with your adhesive of choice. The large amount of contact area means that the glue joint will be very strong.

So enough length makes it work? Good show, I've tried connecting things in that fashion, and never had it hold worth a damn (apparently because I used 2" or less segments.)

Did you sand the connecting areas flat at all to increase surface contact, and how much strength test have you given it?
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#30 umpshaplapa

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 09:30 AM

Start with a length of 1/2" PVC. Glue it on with your adhesive of choice. The large amount of contact area means that the glue joint will be very strong.

So enough length makes it work? Good show, I've tried connecting things in that fashion, and never had it hold worth a damn (apparently because I used 2" or less segments.)

Did you sand the connecting areas flat at all to increase surface contact, and how much strength test have you given it?

It should be even stronger than the stock, which is really strong. I have a SNAP rork made, and I pushed as hard as I could and the stock didn't budge.

Edited by umpshaplapa, 06 March 2010 - 09:31 AM.

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#31 Carbon

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 10:00 AM

Start with a length of 1/2" PVC. Glue it on with your adhesive of choice. The large amount of contact area means that the glue joint will be very strong.

So enough length makes it work? Good show, I've tried connecting things in that fashion, and never had it hold worth a damn (apparently because I used 2" or less segments.)

Did you sand the connecting areas flat at all to increase surface contact, and how much strength test have you given it?

It should be even stronger than the stock, which is really strong. I have a SNAP rork made, and I pushed as hard as I could and the stock didn't budge.

Sweet. What adhesive is it?
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#32 MindWarrior

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 10:26 AM

I think he just used hotglue and goop like he did for the stock.
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QUOTE(Ryan201821 @ Jan 2 2010, 03:20 PM) View Post

Seriously, no penis pumps or dildos on your Nerf blasters.

REVOLUTION BABY!

#33 rork

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 12:51 PM

Right now, the rail and stock are held on solely by hot glue, and I can easily hold the blaster by the new foregrip while I prime the blaster with no unwanted movement. I'll add some goop before I war with it, but really, it's just insurance. To go along with Umpa, I've done everything up to and including dropping the blaster on the butt-stock, and nothing budges. It's extremely strong. I don't sand the pieces or anything, either; it's simply unnecessary. Diamondback has one of these that I built for him, with a mini SNAP-4 mounted under it in the same way, and he can attest to its solidity, I'm sure.

Merzlin: That's a great idea. I normally discount anything that involves 3/4" pvc fitting over 1/2", since it's marginally too small, but in this case, that would be perfect, and would allow you to make one-piece snap-on bits as long as a particular integration required.
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<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20296" target="_blank">SNAPbow Mk. V</a>
<a href="http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=20409" target="_blank">Make it pump-action</a>

#34 umpshaplapa

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 02:20 PM

...as a particular integration required.

Uh oh...Jobar time.
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QUOTE(Talio @ Jun 29 2009, 01:50 PM) View Post

i got a black belt in noob banning in 2004.


#35 TantumBull

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 04:52 PM

For the rail system, it would be pretty sweet if you made a bunch of holes evenly spaced for the attachments, so you could adjust attachments wherever without having to drill new holes. You could also then switch to bolts and nuts, which may be better because you don't have to worry about the plastic stripping.

Also, pretty sexy snap you have there. I love them so much (snaps in general). The amount of performance you get for the price is pretty amazing.
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#36 Merzlin

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 09:37 PM

Currently have some questions on the plunger head.


My plunger cups forward, but not enough to have an efficient seal; IE: Stopping the plunger because the plunger head is too wide.. (1 1/4"), or having an air leak because of it folding up.

Any suggestions?


(rork, get in the IRC)

Edited by Merzlin, 06 March 2010 - 09:38 PM.

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#37 MindWarrior

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 12:12 AM

Adding another 1 1/4" rubber washer should prevent folding, also, drilling holes at the end of the plunger shaft allows air to come in behind the Plunger rod to prevent vacuuming behind it. Hope that helps.
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QUOTE(Ryan201821 @ Jan 2 2010, 03:20 PM) View Post

Seriously, no penis pumps or dildos on your Nerf blasters.

REVOLUTION BABY!

#38 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 07:15 AM

You could also then switch to bolts and nuts, which may be better because you don't have to worry about the plastic stripping.


Better yet, use quick release pins.
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