PVC Arsenal 17's Content
There have been 112 items by PVC Arsenal 17 (Search limited from 17-January 97)
#298687 Rolling breech
Posted by
on 26 May 2011 - 04:23 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
#298624 Adventures in Airguns
Posted by
on 25 May 2011 - 07:51 PM
in
Homemades
You're making great progress nonetheless and it'll be interesting to see how this project will benefit the hobby.
#295690 Bs-12 Advanced Tactical Nerf Rifle
Posted by
on 09 March 2011 - 08:37 PM
in
Homemades
#295549 Fomas
Posted by
on 07 March 2011 - 11:39 PM
in
Homemades
@PVC: But eliminating the shell would take the fun out of it! it's true; it's not strictly necessary, but then it wouldn't be a L+LPVAT, or FOMAS. PLus, the shell is purty. I think I take your hint about discouraing new builders, but I speak from experience when I say that it's good to take challenges, just not unreasonable ones. If a new nerfer tries to make this as thier first homemamde, chances are slim, not impossible, but slim that it will come out how they want it to. They might get frustrated and drop nerfing altogether which would be a shame. I was just saying that this is probabaly a good homemade to work up to.
All fair points. The utility (and fun) of the shell is something I hadn't considered. Configuring the gun in the manner I suggested can be awkward and problematic as I've experienced on similar projects. That said, please allow me to clarify that I didn't mean to insult your work in any way. In fact I think it's a neat blend of the two main homemade gun traditions.
I'd also like to ask if you can quantify or offer comparison for the force required to retract the bolt, both with and without the mechanical advantage provided by the trigger.
#295437 Fomas
Posted by
on 06 March 2011 - 02:30 AM
in
Homemades
On the topic of who this is geared towards, I would not recommend starting with this as your first homemade, or even your second, third or fourth. It’s fairly involved in cutting the “shell” parts, and getting the PVAT to seal perfectly can sometimes be a bitch.
Perhaps you can avoid both issues by taking a slightly different approach as this SpudFiles member did. At the very least, you can eliminate the polycarb shell in favor of a simple [Fimo] grip mounted directly to the chamber with a pushrod trigger linked to the piston. Better yet, (and I don't mean to knock the PVAT) you can skip the sealing issues with a simple fixed diaphragm coaxial gun.
In any case, good work. The journey towards the truly perfect Nerf gun gets shorter with every new creation posted. Maybe we can get there faster if we don't discourage new builders from taking on challenges.
#295322 Archangel
Posted by
on 04 March 2011 - 12:36 AM
in
Homemades
The layout is fairly similar, especially with regard to the valve and gas reservoir (which really are in the only positions you can put them in). I didn't like what I did in FANG 3, so I scraped the thing shortly after taking that photo. PVC seems to have avoided a number of issues I had by building the entire thing off a tube and using electronics. I considered a similar layout for FANG 4, but I'm going for something completely different at the moment. Watch FANG 5 be a copy of this.
PVC, if you ever have any questions about math, engineering, or physics, I'd be happy to help. I might not have the free time to help often as I'm practically in grad. school right now and I'll be officially starting grad. school next semester, but I'd still be happy to help you. (And yes, I am studying fluid dynamics. Interior ballistics is basically a subset of that field, so I'd be even more knowledgeable about Nerf ballistics during and after grad. school.)
I appreciate that; I'm sure I'll encounter many difficulties over the next five years. I'm taking the five year masters route which combines your senior with your first year of grad... with some overloading of course.
I just finished learning about the joys of sequence and series in Calc 2. Had I not refused my AP credit I would be in DiffEq right now but I think it was good decision. My calc foundation is pretty solid.
I owe the layout of this gun to good fortune. I was sitting around with a list of pipe diameters and a calculator trying to find a combination that would make a good hub+barrel assembly. 2" PVC and .625" tube came out pretty close to giving a 15-barrel assembly. Sure enough, I pieced together some actual tubes and they fit just fine.
From there I knew I would base the gun on a 15-barrel turret. The 2" PVC worked out nicely too because I could house most of the guts inside it. I picked sch80 specifcially because 1.5" PVC fits inside it well. The motor and regulator are housed in 1.5" PVC sleeves which then slide into the 2". This let me safely secure both of those with screws. Another benefit of the sch80 is the wall thickness- this thing is solid, those screws aren't coming out.
Like you said, there is really only one place for the valve to go. Originally though, the reservoir was a narrow line snaked through the top handle parallel to the supply line. But the volume was inadequate so I flipped it around to thread on that makeshift reservoir. I'll be switching it to copper when I get time.
The seal between the valve outlet and the barrels is made with some adhesive backed foam. It's all that's needed considering the low mass of the projectiles and the low/brief backpressure.
The grip is made from Fimo clay like others i've made before. It's pretty comfortable even though I made it poorly.
The Arduino circuitry is pretty simple. Three digital pins read the state of three switches (trigger, selector, limit). Two more digital pins send signals to two logic level N-Channel MOSFETs. These send power from an external battery to the solenoid and the motor. There are flyback diodes on both to prevent voltage spike(though I don't think the motor produces much because it stops dead in its tracks due to friction).
Hopefully this answers some questions until I do a writeup.
#295305 Pepé
Posted by
on 03 March 2011 - 08:17 PM
in
Homemades
CaptainSlug: "It would have to have a high flow rate in order to pilot the QEV quickly. Which would mean it will probably be expensive, or large, maybe both."
I disagree. The MJVO-3 should be adequate by itself, and if not, you can make a QEV cascade using the MJVO-3 to pilot a small [inline] QEV which the pilots the larger one. It would cost less than the Mouse valve, take up about the same space, and eliminate the batteries as well the weight associated with them.
#295072 Archangel
Posted by
on 25 February 2011 - 09:01 PM
in
Homemades
EDIT: better video: http://s237.photobuc...nt=HPIM0976.mp4
Here are some videos, excuse the crappy quality:
http://s237.photobuc...current=fa1.mp4
http://s237.photobuc...=0225012021.mp4
As you can see there was not one misfire in either mode. The indexing is dead-on accurate. However, if the barrel assembly is put back on out of line with the air outlet, there is a "synchronizing period" of a couple shots before it gets back in tune. Once it is, though, it's consistent. I'm still working on ways to eliminate that problem but overall I can't complain about how well the whole system is working.
And of course a size comparison to my other toys:
Note the electronic guts sticking out... there is much refining left.
BTW I'm a first year mechanical engineering student. My building ability is mostly due to years of tinkering, though. I want to share what I've learned throughout this project so others can build things like this too, so yes I will do a writeup when I get time.
#294944 Archangel
Posted by
on 22 February 2011 - 06:36 PM
in
Homemades
Thanks again for your replies.
#294833 Archangel
Posted by
on 21 February 2011 - 04:03 PM
in
Homemades
Once again I've discovered the huge advantage of tweaking projects like this in code. In the previous video I was using the gun with the solenoid's firing duration set a bit too high. I changed a few numbers and realized that I can now get a huge RoF boost. Here is full-auto uncapped: http://s237.photobuc...current=fau.mp4
#294827 Archangel
Posted by
on 21 February 2011 - 01:54 PM
in
Homemades
It is not a paintball gun, though I suppose it has much in common with one.
#294805 Archangel
Posted by
on 21 February 2011 - 01:02 AM
in
Homemades
Good job and nice build!
It looks pretty, it's semi-auto, and it works! The only other thing is ranges. How far can this thing fling darts? Oh, and it is a little hard to tell, so could you clarify how many barrels there are?
Thanks for the comment. There are 15 barrels per rotary clip, and they are removable if you need to reload quickly. I'll figure out ranges within the next few days, but as with anything pneumatic, it's up to the regulator settings to produce the results I want.
Edit: It's selectfire. There is also a full-auto mode that I did not demonstrate. I can also program a burst mode but I don't see the need.
#294803 Archangel
Posted by
on 21 February 2011 - 12:47 AM
in
Homemades
Semi-auto dry-fire video (I have no darts): http://s237.photobuc...ent=airtest.mp4
Electro Pneumatic Revolver (EPR) proof of concept.
More pics and vids tomorrow... I'm exhausted.
#290165 Barricade Release Date?
Posted by
on 05 December 2010 - 05:15 PM
in
General Nerf
#288324 New Nerf Gun
Posted by
on 13 November 2010 - 12:30 AM
in
News
#288318 Community Snap Thread
Posted by
on 12 November 2010 - 11:12 PM
in
Homemades
http://s237.photobuc...urrent=gun1.mp4
Forgot to mention: Plunger head uses a skirt seal. What's shown in the video is not the actual plunger head, just something I stuck on there. And apparently I forgot where the webcam is on my laptop... but the injury is just a nice blood blister about 1/4" in diameter.
#288231 Community Snap Thread
Posted by
on 10 November 2010 - 04:09 PM
in
Homemades
Assuming I'm not blind, that would make you shoot yourself.Keep the trigger and grip exactly where they are... I wouldn't call it backwards at all.
Stick a RSCB on top of that bastard and you got an Effeminate and a half gun
On the right track...
#288175 Community Snap Thread
Posted by
on 09 November 2010 - 02:16 PM
in
Homemades
Keep the trigger and grip exactly where they are... I wouldn't call it backwards at all.
#288103 Community Snap Thread
Posted by
on 07 November 2010 - 08:50 PM
in
Homemades
The sear pin is a spring plunger (McMaster part #8487A18). It's extremely compact and perfectly suited to this sort of application. Eventually a linkage or lever system will be incorporated to allow for a formal trigger. The pin catches on a short length of 1/2" brass pipe which has been chamfered on one end. This catch rides nicely inside 3/4" sch40 PVC. It's secured to a 1/2" CPVC plunger rod using two 8-32 set screws.
The finished project will [hopefully] be unlike anthing posted before, and without a doubt something you guys will appreciate. I've shifted my focus from overpowered pneumatic guns to the familiar spring type, and as always, I'm keeping things simple enough to be made by the average nerfer with limited access to tools.
Edit: Here is a quick drawing to clarify my description of the catch:
#284152 Community Snap Thread
Posted by
on 27 August 2010 - 06:23 PM
in
Homemades
Also, has anyone used a spring plunger to replace the typical clothespin trigger?
#283848 Is The Nerf Tactical Vest Worth The $30?
Posted by
on 23 August 2010 - 04:32 PM
in
General Nerf
#283751 Community Snap Thread
Posted by
on 22 August 2010 - 02:36 PM
in
Homemades
Has anyone here experienced failures after repeated use of their SNAPs? Is it common or necessary to cushion the impact between the plunger and the front bushing? I will be attempting my own spring gun and I want to know if there's any reason I should avoid using PVC.
Edit: For those interested, I plan to use 2" sch80 PVC as the plunger tube. 1.5" pipe and fittings fit nicely into the 2". I also plan to incorporate McMaster Part#8487A18 into the trigger system. Has anyone come across properly sized seals for 2" sch80 PVC? The ID is 1.913".
#283707 Hvz Next Gun
Posted by
on 21 August 2010 - 08:59 PM
in
General Nerf
It really is an underappreciated gun in my opinion. Maybe it doesn't have much of a place in formal Nerf wars, but it kicks ass in HvZ. I wouldn't choose anything over the FireFly as a primary after seeing the Raider and other magfed guns fail to fire.
That's another reason I liked the barrel break. If a bad streamline gets jammed at the wrong time, an otherwise easy hit turns into a death.
I never gave the Barrel Break any consideration until reading your post. I think it will be joining my arsenal soon for the reasons you mentioned.
#283692 Hvz Next Gun
Posted by
on 21 August 2010 - 06:42 PM
in
General Nerf
The layout of the gun lends itself to extremely fast priming and target acquisition. The 8-shot capacity is adequate and the open turret allows for quick reloading. The onboard storage for 8 darts is also convenient, plus you can easily clip a mesh dart pouch to the lower sling attachment point.
It really is an underappreciated gun in my opinion. Maybe it doesn't have much of a place in formal Nerf wars, but it kicks ass in HvZ. I wouldn't choose anything over the FireFly as a primary after seeing the Raider and other magfed guns fail to fire.
#282715 Halo: Reach Pistol Nf
Posted by
on 10 August 2010 - 02:03 PM
in
Homemades
I'm hoping to mold the shell and cast it in resin.
And possibly selling some casts in a small run or two.
Would anyone be interested?
Absolutely.
#282006 Crowd Control "minigun"
Posted by
on 03 August 2010 - 06:19 PM
in
Homemades
#282003 Anti-oz Shotgun
Posted by
on 03 August 2010 - 06:12 PM
in
Homemades
#282002 Crowd Control "minigun"
Posted by
on 03 August 2010 - 06:07 PM
in
Homemades
Hah. I remember finding a large squirrel fan at American Science and Surplus and using a hopper clip (I did not develop it on my own, and neither have you) to feed some slug darts. It wasn't that practical.
I came up with the idea without input from anyone here or anywhere else. You may not be aware, but there are people aside from those few the NIC worships as gods who also have the capacity to come up with their own ideas rather than simply replicate things they've seen. I'm not claiming to be the "inventor" but I sure as hell didn't have any input from anyone else. So yes, I did develop it on my own.
I will experiment with longer barrels but this was all I had on hand. I'd be curious to see what effect it has, though I doubt it will be significant.
@Ryan: Looks like they used a shop vac. Very creative.
#281957 Anti-oz Shotgun
Posted by
on 03 August 2010 - 11:59 AM
in
Homemades
My squad runs drills to prepare for OZ attacks and we found it's extremely difficult to get off 5 shots before someone is lost even if we work as a team. With that in mind, I built a last resort "shotgun" to help ensure a stun.
It's a very simple gun. The reservoir consists of a 3/4" brass ball valve with extended lever, an 8" length of 3/4" steel pipe, a 3/4" steel coupling, a 3/4" x 1/8" brass bushing, and an 1/8" NPT schrader valve. There are 7, 1/2" CPVC barrels lining the inner circumference of 2" sch40 PVC pipe and an 8th barrel in the center. The gaps are filled in with silicone. The 2" pipe is then adapted down to thread into the ball valve.
The shotgun is filled using a 12 gram CO2 tire inflator (shown) but can also use a bike pump.
I know you guys all probably hate HvZ, but I'm obsessed with it and the things I post are all made specifically for the game.
#281956 Crowd Control "minigun"
Posted by
on 03 August 2010 - 11:47 AM
in
Homemades
I put together some fittings to connect the inflator to my ancient hopper clip and gave it a try with some 1.25" homemade darts. The range is only around 20 feet but the rate of fire is excellent; I'd guess it's around 12 rounds per second. With a large enough clip, the rate of fire will offset the lack of range and it should be useful for later Humans Vs. Zombies missions where the human team is heavily outnumbered and being swarmed from all sides.
Connected to a dedicated air source like my 20 gallon compressor, the range and rate of fire should be outstanding. I may use it in that way to defend my house when it gets swarmed later in the week.
Hopefully you guys can take this and improve on it. If it's not useful for Nerf wars, it's still a ton of fun to shoot.
#281389 What Size Brass Fits Stock Darts?
Posted by
on 27 July 2010 - 02:54 PM
in
Modifications
#281316 Stock Dart Quiver
Posted by
on 26 July 2010 - 09:30 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
#281312 Stock Dart Quiver
Posted by
on 26 July 2010 - 09:00 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Pics should explain the rest:
Hopefully this helps someone.
#281212 Rr
Posted by
on 25 July 2010 - 11:59 AM
in
Homemades
Looks pretty sweet. It is interesting you use stock darts for such a powerful gun. Do you weight the darts any? How is the seal? How much do they vary between types (in tems of seal). Do they fishtail a lot?
I built it to use stock darts because that's what everyone else uses in Humans Vs. Zombies where I play. I'll always have a good supply available. Sonic darts are complete garbage at high velocity. The hole cut in them to make the whistling sound causes drag and pulls them to whatever side the hole is on. Velcro tip darts are better, but tend to fishtail at higher velocities. Without eye protection they're also very dangerous because of the rough tip. Suction cup darts don't really work until the suction cups have been sliced off, but once that's done they're very accurate. I prefer to fire those because of the accuracy and the fact that they fit into the breech more easily because they're shortened.
I have not added weight to any darts yet. The fit between the darts and the barrel is a bit loose, but it kind of has to be since the rubber tips would easily get stuck otherwise. I spray the barrel with a little bit of silicone every now and then to make sure the darts slide nicely.
Unfortunately I can't put together a chart with pressures and their respective velocities because my guage broke, but I'll replace it soon. I was adjusting the regulator last night and found just how wide a range this blaster is capable of. I was able to drop the pressure so low that darts only went about 15 feet, then lower until they failed to leave the barrel, then so low the cylinder did not even extend. At the middle range they we're getting 150 feet easily with little incline. Again, I can't say what pressures produced what result, but I will find out as soon as I can.
Edit: Final Form
#281175 Rr
Posted by
on 24 July 2010 - 08:50 PM
in
Homemades
Word to the wise: stay away from Sculpey III modeling clay. That stuff is horrible. I regret not buying Fimo this time around.
The trigger is a thin bolt hoseclamped to the sleeve valve. The flat top part of the hose clamp runs along a section of aluminum u-channel to prevent the assembly from rotating. Pretty damn solid.
And two videos demonstrating the action in case my explanation was unclear:
http://s237.photobuc...=0724002124.mp4
http://s237.photobuc...=0724002125.mp4
Excuse the quality... cell phone camera.
#281103 Double +bow
Posted by
on 24 July 2010 - 12:03 AM
in
Homemades
On a more serious note: I have to agree with the people before me who said the breeches should not be linked. There is no sustained RoF gain here, at the very least you're increasing the probability of getting a hit due to two fast, back to back shots but at the cost of longer reload time than an ordinary +bow. I'm sure it'll have its place in some situation, however. Nice build regardless. I've always liked these but refuse to make one of my own until I have the equipment to do it neatly.
#281040 Rr
Posted by
on 23 July 2010 - 11:07 AM
in
Homemades
Yeah the barrel is ridiculous. I assembled the whole thing with a length of pipe I had sitting around and never bothered to cut it, but I plan to.
The ball valve shuts off the flow from the co2 tank when the player is not actively firing. I'm not really concerned about injuries caused by the bolt because there's no reason why the sleeve valve should reset while reloading and cause the bolt to close before it's supposed to.
#281015 Rr
Posted by
on 23 July 2010 - 12:59 AM
in
Homemades
Here it as after being duct taped up.
Pretty ridiculous right? I think so.
A different color grip will be molded and the tank will be covered in something colorful.
#281008 Rr
Posted by
on 22 July 2010 - 10:11 PM
in
Homemades
This blaster was designed for taking out long range targets in Humans Vs. Zombies, NOT nerf wars.
It uses what I call "assisted bolt-action." It's best described as the halfway point between bolt-action and semi-automatic. A fraction of a second after firing, the bolt opens. Due to the non-resetting trigger, the bolt stays open to allow the player to load a new dart. The trigger is then manually reset by pushing it forward which in turn closes the bolt and advances the dart. Because the action of pulling and manually resetting the trigger is so minimal compared to cycling a bolt, I call the process "assisted". The player never manipulates the bolt directly, only the trigger valve.
As you can see I have yet to install the actual trigger to the valve, but that'll be done soon. I still have to clean it all up a bit and then give it a healthy makeover with bright colored duct tape so it looks ridiculous as a nerf blaster should. More to come...
#280369 Humans Vs Zombies Recommended Weapons
Posted by
on 15 July 2010 - 11:27 PM
in
General Nerf
